Trip Overview and itinerary - 13 days Self-drive road trip in England covering London, the Cotswolds, Liverpool and Christmas at the Lake District

This is a 13 days self-drive road trip in England covering London, the Cotswolds, Liverpool and Christmas at the Lake District.

We planned this trip to England to coincide with Daniel’s Christmas break from his studies in the University of Bath.

After 5 days at London, we would embark on a road trip from through the beautiful countryside of the Cotswolds, Liverpool and spend Christmas at the Waterhead Hotel at Ambleside. Ambleside is a village located on the shore of Lake Windemere in the English Lake District. We would then return to the city of Bath, via the Cotswolds route again.

This is the overview of our trip.

Day 1 (16 December 2012)  – London

Travel from home to Heathrow Airport, arriving 7.20 AM.  Travel by Heathrow Connect (30 minutes interval, journey time 25 minutes) to Paddington Station.
Meet Daniel in London at Paddington Station.

After check-in at our hotel, visit Camden Market. Best time to visit Camden Market in on weekends. Market opens from Monday through to Sunday, 10am - 6pm.

Trip Report: A visit to Camden Market.

Evening/Dinner: Try the famous Roast Duck dinner at Bayswater (Gold Mine,102 Queensway, Bayswater or Four Seasons, 84 Queensway, Bayswater).

Where I stayed: Premier Inn London Kensington (Earl's Court) in London.

Day 2 (17 December 2012) – London

A full day of sightseeing in London.

Buckingham Palace (changing of guards at 11 am), walk through St James Park to Westminster Abbey. See 10 Downing Street, Big Ben, Parliament House, London Eye. Then go to Trafalgar Square, Covent Garden, Leicester Square, walk through Chinatown and dinner at Chinatown or Burger & Lobster at Dean Street. 

Trip report: Walking Tour of the famous London Sights.

Where I stayed: Premier Inn London Kensington (Earl's Court) in London.

Day 3 (18 December 2012) – London

Visit Tower of London. Tower opens at 9 am on Tuesday to Saturday. Allow two to three hours for a visit Tower of London.

Allow extra time to take a Yeoman Warder's tour (Beefeater's tour.) These hour-long tours by the Tower's special guards are usually offered every half-hour during the day. Buy ticket online for discount. There is also discount for Students.

Tower Bridge at London.

See Tower Bridge and HMS Belfast nearby.

Trip report: Visit to Tower of London.

Evening at Oxord Street to see the Christmas light-up and do some shopping.

Trip report: Oxford Street and Christmas Lightings.

Where I stayed: Premier Inn London Kensington (Earl's Court) in London.

Day 4 (19 December 2012) – London

Check out TKTS booth at Leicester Square for discount tickets for a musical.

Visit the Royal Air Force (RAF) Museum at Hendon. Entry is free. Opens 10am - 6pm [last entry 5:30pm]

Where I Stayed: Premier Inn London Kensington (Earl's Court) in London.

Trip report: Visit to RAF Museum at Hendon, London.

Day 5 (20 December 2012) – London

Visit the British Museum near Russell Square. Entry is free.

Crystal Skull at British Museum near Russell Square. Is this fake or is this real or is this made by aliens?

Where I stayed: Premier Inn London Kensington (Earl's Court) in London.

Trip report: Visit to British Museum in London.

Day 6 (21 December 2012) – London to Oxford

Visit the Natural History Museum before leaving London For Oxford. Entry is free and the museum opens at 10 AM.

Trip report: Visit to the Natural History Museum in London.

Take taxi to Paddington Station and take Heathrow Connect to airport to pick up rental car.  This is the beginning of our road trip.

Drive to Oxford.

Explore Oxford and colleges of Oxford University.

Trip report: From London to Oxford and the Covered Market.

Dinner at Jamie Oliver’s Italian restaurant located along George Street. This restaurant was quite popular in Oxford as this was Jamie’s first restaurant

Where I stayed: Red Mullion Guesthouse at Oxford.

This Bed and Breakfast accommodation offers Family Room large enough for 4 adults, free off-street parking and is a short drive away from Oxford town Ccntre.

 

Day 7 (22 December 2012) –  Explore the Cotswolds (Oxford to Stratford Upon Avon)

Visit Natural History and Pitt Rivers Museum at Oxford (Museums close at 4.30 PM). Entry is free.

See shrunken heads at the Pitt River Museum.

Trip report: Pitt Rivers Museum and Oxford University Museum of Natural History.

Drive and explore the eastern part of the Cotswolds towns and villages and ending the day at Stratford Upon Avon.

Stop over at Bourton-On-Water and Lower Slaughter on the way to Stratford-Upon-Avon.

Trip report: Tea at Bourton-On-the-Waters, the Venice of the Cotswold.

Trip report: Most romantic village of the the Cotswold - Lower Slaughter.

Where I stayed: Ambleside Guest House at Stratford-Upon-Avon. This Bed and Breakfast accommodation offers Family Room large enough for 4 adults, free off-street parking and is a short walk away from Stratford town centre and keys sights.

Day 8 (23 December 2012) – Stratford Upon Avon to Liverpool

Explore and see the sights of Stratford-Upon-Avon, the birthplace of William Shakespeare in the morning.

Trip report: Morning at Stratford Upon Avon–Shakespeare’s town.

Drive from Stratford-Upon-Avon to Liverpool.

Visit Albert Dock and the Beatles Museum.

Dinner at Albert Dock and drinks at the Cavern Pub where the Beatles first started.

Trip report: Evening in Liverpool – Beatles Museum and dinner at Albert Dock.

Where I stayed: Bridgestreet Serviced Apartments at Liverpool ONE. We booked a 2 Bedroom Service Apartment with garage parking. It is ideally located right on top of Liverpool ONE mall and walking distance to Albert Dock and attractions within the city.

Day 9 (24 December 2012) – Liverpool to Ambleside at the Lake District

Short visit to Anfield Stadium, home of Liverpool FC in the morning before driving to Lake district (2 hours journey). 

Trip report: Revisit to Anfield stadium.

Arrive by 3 PM for the Christmas Programme at Waterhead Hotel. 

(** This was the Waterhead - 2012 Christmas Breaks – Programme ** for Christmas Eve)

Following a warm welcome and glass of our ‘secret recipe’ homemade mulled wine on arrival, a traditional Lakeland afternoon tea will be served in our Bar and Lounge with stunning views over the Lake to the fells beyond. Suitably refreshed why not discover the delights of Ambleside to buy that last minute Christmas present, or alternatively relax and unwind in our bar and lounge with a glass of your favourite tipple.

Mark Needham, General Manager, and his team then welcome you to the evening celebrations with a champagne and canapé reception, followed by a luxurious four course dinner in the stylish surroundings of the Bar & Grill Restaurant.

It’s then time for our ever-popular casino night, with blackjack, roulette and the wheel of fortune game. The local parish churches welcome the community and visitors alike for midnight mass and a glass of mulled wine will await your return to the hotel.

Trip report: Christmas Eve at Waterhead Hotel, Ambleside, Lake District.

Where I stayed : Waterhead Hotel at Ambleside, Lake District.

Day 10 (25 December 2012) – Ambleside at the Lake District

(** This was the Waterhead - 2012 Christmas Breaks – Programme ** for Christmas Day)

Lake Windermere, near Waterhead Hotel.

Our chimneys will be swept in anticipation of a seasonal visitor who will greet you with presents and a glass or two of Bucks Fizz prior to a full Christmas breakfast. Although we’re sure that for many the rest of the morning may be spent opening gifts, why not enjoy some stimulating and invigorating Lakeland air on the traditional Christmas morning walk, along with the equally traditional half-way glass of mulled wine!

Morning walk to Lake Grasmere at the Lake District.

Hopefully, you’ll now have some space for our traditional six course Christmas Day lunch served with all the trimmings, followed by the Queen’s speech televised at 3pm in the bar. Join us again in the evening for a light but sumptuous buffet supper, the rest of the evening being relaxed and informal and the perfect opportunity to unwind following the exertions of the day.

Outside Waterhead Hotel at Ambleside.

Where I stayed : Waterhead Hotel at Ambleside, Lake District.

Trip report: Christmas Morning at Ambleside on the bank of Lake Windermere.

Trip report: The White Moss Walk to Lake Grasmere and Christmas lunch at the Waterhead Hotel, Ambleside at Lake District.

Trip report: Lazy Christmas afternoon and evening at the Waterhead Hotel.

Day 11 (26 December 2012) – Ambleside at the Lake District

(** This was the Waterhead - 2012 Christmas Breaks – Programme ** for Boxing Day)

Relax and enjoy a well-earned lie-in! Brunch will be served in the Bar & Grill. Following this, you could take advantage of a complimentary cruise on Lake Windermere or tackle this year’s Treasure Hunt around Ambleside.

* We went for the cruise on Lake Windermere in the morning and drove to Wast Water in the afternoon.

Wast Water in Lake District was a beautiful place to visit.

This evening’s three course dinner will feature our chef’s twist on some traditional British Pub favourites served in the Bar & Grill, keeping with the theme it’s then time to assemble your team for the Waterhead Festive Pub Quiz with prizes for the lucky winners.

A drink or two overlooking Lake Windermere will round off a memorable and relaxing Christmas at The Waterhead.

Where I stayed : Waterhead Hotel at Ambleside, Lake District.

Trip report: Morning Cruise on Lake Windermere at the Lake District.

Trip report: Half day road trip to Wast Water from Ambleside, Lake District.

Day 12 (27 December 2012) – Keswich at the Lake District and drive to Cheltenham

We went for a morning walk to Borrans Park at Ambleside before breakfast.

Trip report: Morning with the geese at Borrans Park, Lake District England.

Following a final hearty Lakeland breakfast, stopover at Derwent Waters, Keswich

Derwent Waters, Keswich in Lake District.

Do the long drive to Cheltenhem (205 miles -  about 4 hours journey non-stop).

Free and easy evening at Cheltenhem.

Trip report: Revisit to Derwent Water, Keswick and the long drive to Cheltenham.

Where I Stayed: Bridge House B&B at Cheltenhem.

Day 13 (28 December 2012) – Explore the Cotswolds (Cheltenham to Bath)

Drive through the western part of Cotswolds en-route to Bath. Our route: Cheltenham to Gloucester to Painswick to Castle Combe to Bath.

Trip report: A drive through Cotswold Town of Painswick.

We did a stopover at Castle Combe, one of the prettiest village in the Cotswolds and filming location of the movies “War Horse” and “Dr Doolittle”.

Village of Castle Combe.

Trip report: Castle Combe - One of the prettiest village in the Cotswolds – filming location of the movies “War Horse” and “Dr Doolittle”.

We spent the afternoon in Bath. Visited the Royal Crescent and went to the city center to see the Bath Abbey, the outside of the Roman Bath, Pulteney Bridge and the weir.

The weir at Bath.

Trip report: Afternoon in the City of Bath.

Where I stayed: Milton House B&B at Bath. This B&B is located along Wells Road, slightly away from the City Centre. It offers free on-street parking.

Day 14 (29 December  2012) – Bath

Free and easy day to explore the City of Bath.

Where I stayed: Milton House B&B at Bath.

Day 15 (30 December 2012) – Bath to Heathrow

Journey from Bath to Heathrow Airport for our flight home.

Planning Considerations:

Our trip span the Christmas season in UK. Getting around town at Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day can be challenging thanks to reduced timetables on the tube, buses and railways. Very few shops and restaurants would be open during that period as well.

Waterhead Hotel in Ambleside, Lake District offered Christmas packages that included hotel stay, full board and activities for guest. It was ideal for my needs as I planned to visit the beautiful Lake District during the winter period and also provide time for family bonding.

Useful Trip Planning Resources:

1. Route planning,

A good resource I normally use when planning my trips was google maps. However, for planning a road trip in the UK, the AA Route Planner was an excellent tool.

2. Accommodation

I usually book my hotels through Booking.com as it offers a wide selection of accommodation, with free cancellations and often no need for prepayment.

For the smaller towns and villages in the UK, accommodation is usually in family-owned Bed and Breakfast (B&B). This UK Bed & Breakfast Directory and Travel Guides is a good resource. I usually booked B&B via email to the owners directly or through their website, if available.

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Start of our Christmas break in England 2012 – a visit to Camden Market

16 December 2012

We landed in Heathrow in the morning about 7.30 AM and took the Heathrow Express train into Paddington station to meet up with Daniel who was studying in Bath. Daniel’s train was due at about 9 AM so we had some time to kill at Paddington. Now was the time to go get the Oyster cards that we would need for the next few days in London and also an opportune time to go shoot some photos.

Paddington Bear at Paddington station, London.

Pigeon warming itself near a floor lamp in London Paddington station.

Anxious to meet Daniel, we waited by the train platform instead of the warmer lobby but it was worth it to see his train pulling into the station as scheduled.

After the hugs and greetings, we took a taxi to our hotel at Premier Inn Kensington. The London cabs were so spacious that they could accommodate 4 adults and suitcases in the passenger compartment!

It was still too early to check in to our rooms but we were able to leave our luggage in a storeroom and go explore London. London was cold in December! We took the short walk to the Earl’s Court Station. We ended up in a pub called the Courtfield to have our breakfast and watch the Club World Cup match between Chelsea and Corinthians on the live TV.  Chelsea lost.

Our plan for the day was to visit the Camden Market as the best time to visit Camden Market was on weekends. We took the subway to the Camden Town station. 

When we came out of the Camden Town tube station, we immediately notice the crowds! Then we saw the many shops along Camden High Street with eye catching and, at times, weird decor.

Canal lock along Camden High Street.

We saw the locks on the Regent Canal and then came to Camden Lock Market which had a mixture of interesting souvenir shops, clothes, music records and outdoor food stalls selling all kinds of international food. We regretted having a big breakfast before coming here as the food at the stalls looked yummy. 

International food stalls at Camden Lock Market.

Cheese and bread.

Birds hoping for scraps.

Canal boats on the Regent Canal.

Vendors are offering food samples which tasted very nice but we have no room to eat anymore.

Steaming hot paella.

It was not just food, food, food. Other interesting sights - brollies from a souvenir store.

Crossing to the other side of Camden High Street there were more food, antiques, clothes and souvenir stalls.

“Scooters” stools at food stalls.

“Meals on wheels”. Sit by the river on scooter seats to have a meal.

View of the Regent Canal while getting a bite.

  Zulu figurine outside the Shaka restaurant. This looked like an interesting place to have dinner.

A bronze lion statue that appeared in the middle of the crowded street.

Interesting “egg-shaped” objects on rooftop.

One of the interesting shops we visited was the Cyberdog. Amongst other things, this shops sells T-shirts with lights that will turn on and off in tune with music played.

Entrance to the Cyberdog.

Inside the Cyberdog. This guy was dancing on the balcony above.

The final part of Camden Market we visited was the Stables Market. This place used to be a horse hospital.

Stables market – used to be a horse hospital. The indoor shops were used to keep horses previously.

Statues of horses were all over and there were more shops selling clothes, food, antiques.

Some shops were selling clothes of the bygone era. We took a walk inside a shop selling old army uniforms, some as old as WW1 and even some “red-coats”.

Shop selling vintage clothes.

Statues of horses. The stall in the background sells sweet and savoury pancakes in many favours. Yummy!

By now, the jet lag was beginning to set in. From the Stables Market, the nearest London Underground station is the Chalk Farm Road station. Then it was back to the hotel for a nap before dinner tonight at the Gold Mine Chinese restaurant at Bayswater.

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Walking Tour of the famous London Sights

17 December 2012

As this was Samuel’s first visit to London, we decided to do a walking tour of the famous London sights. The planned route : Buckingham Palace (watch changing of guards at 11 AM), walk through St James Park to Westminster Abbey. See the Big Ben, 10 Downing Street,  Parliament House, London Eye, then go to Trafalgar Square. Walk to Covent Garden and then Chinatown. Dinner at Chinatown or Burger & Lobster (SOHO) 36 Dean Street.

We took the Underground to the Hyde Park Corner station arriving at 10.30 AM. Instead of going into Hyde Park itself, we crossed over the road and headed towards the Palace as we wanted to watch the changing of the guards at 11.00 AM.

There was time for a quick look at the Royal Artillery Memorial and the Wellington Arch.

Details on the top of the Wellington Arch - largest bronze sculpture in Europe, depicting the Angel of Peace descending on a four-horsed chariot of war.

Royal Artillery Memorial.

The Royal Artillery Memorial is dedicated to the casualties in the Royal Regiment of Artillery in the First World War. Stone reliefs on the sides depict scenes from the war.

One of the 4 bronze figure of the soldiers with shells in porches on his legs.

As we were walking to the Palace, we saw mounted troopers heading the same way to the Palace.

Mounted troops heading to the Palace.

Mounted regiment going through the Memorial Gates.

Details on the Memorial Gates - dedicated to five million people from the Indian Sub-Continent, Africa and the Caribbean who served or lost their lives in the two World Wars.

Really enjoy the morning walk on the tree-lined Constitution Hill road that cuts through the Green Park. The morning light filtering through the branches of the rows of trees made a pretty picture.

Constitution Hill road going towards Buckingham Palace.

Many people were already gathered outside the gates of Buckingham Palace, waiting for the changing of the guards that takes place at the parade square inside the gates.

Gate of Buckingham Palace – Lion and Unicorn on gate pillars.

Playing with my camera while waiting for  the show to begin.

Chewing gums stains on the sidewalk outside the Palace. Now I appreciate the ban of sale of chewing gum in my home country, Singapore.

Victoria Memorial.

Mounted police came by and told us “ there are thieves amongst you. Be careful of your belongings!”

Mounted police doing crowd control. Amazed by the beauty and size of the horse when it came up close.

He must have seen some familiar faces in the crowd. People who come to “watch” the changing of the guards daily must have other interest in mind. I remembered a tip a tour guide once gave me.

“Things in your front pockets belongs to you. Things in your back pockets belongs to others”.

I made sure my phone and wallets were safe in the front pockets of my tight jeans.

We could not actually see the happenings within the Palace grounds due to the crowd but we saw the soldiers marching into the palace. Quite an anti-climax.

Well, being here, done that.

The walk through St James Park towards the Westminster Abbey is more enjoyable. It was part of the trail known as the Princess Diana Memorial Walk.

Princess Diana Memorial Walk.

Squirrels were out and about. So were the birds.

Gulls taking food from the hand of a visitor.

We came to the Westminster Abbey but did not go in as we have done this before in our last visit to London and Sam does not seemed interested to go in.

So we walked around Parliament Square to take some pictures of the Big Ben and the House of Parliament. The large green area of the square had statues of statesmen like Churchill and Mandela.

Big Ben and red phone booth. Like any tourist to London, the trip is not complete without photos of the Big Ben, red phone booth, red double-decker London Bus and London cab.

Winston Churchill at Parliament Square.

Big Ben.

Walking towards the Big Ben and the House of Parliament, we came onto the Westminster Bridge.

There is a monument of a woman warrior on chariot at the start of the bridge.

I remember watching a documentary on the History channel of a Queen Boudica who led a rebellion against the Romans when London was known as Londonium. What a girl!

London Eye and monument of Queen Boudica who led a rebellion against the Romans.

We had been up the London Eye in our last trip, so we did not crossed over the bridge to the Eye. Instead, we turned back and went to Parliament Street instead to look for the office of the Prime Minister. We walked past the Cenotaph and other war memorials.

10 Downing Street - office of the Prime Minister.

The PM office was behind security gates, so there was nothing much to see. Going past the PM office, we came to Horse Guard Parade. It is free to enter to the parade ground where the Queen takes the salute at the Trooping of The Colour ceremony on her official birthday. The museum charges an entrance fee.

Two mounted cavalry troopers are posted outside daily from 10 am to 4 pm, and are relieved every hour.

Gate leading to the Horse Guard Parade grounds.

Horse Guards patrolling along Horse Guard Road, with St James Park in the back.

From the parade ground, we continued along Horse Guard Road which led us to Charing Cross and Trafalgar Square. 

Malaysia flag flying on top a building near the Nelson Column at Trafalgar Square.  The flag is from Tourism Malaysia office located in this building.

We ate at the Thai Square Trafalgar which serves quite good Thai food in quite posh settings.

The National Gallery is located at Trafalgar Square. We visited the gallery on our last trip but decided to go in again since there is so much to see.

This time round, we went to see some of Vincent Van Gogh’s paintings, including the Sunflower (Van Gogh). Sam was not impressed so we left after a short while and walked to Covent Garden.

Covent Garden has many street performers and we saw one doing his work when we arrived. Covent Garden is quite a happening place, with many boutique shops, restaurants, plus stalls selling British hand-made arts, crafts & antiques.

People gathering around a street performer at Covent Garden.

Christmas decor - entirely made up of Lego bricks.

Inside the Apple Market hall, with stalls selling British hand-made arts, crafts & antiques.

Tired from all the walking, a tea break at the Le Pain Quotedien was nice. The sky had already turned dark by the time we finished our tea.

Christmas lightings.

After Covent Garden, our final stop would be the Soho area and maybe have dinner at Chinatown or Burger & Lobster restaurant at 36 Dean Street. We walked towards Leicester Square as we wanted to check out the TKTS ticket booth for discount tickets for a musical that we may want to watch in the next few days.

Besides ticket booths, there are casinos here and Sam got excited! He wants to check out the poker tables so we went in for a recce. He decided not to play. Thank goodness.

One of the many casinos at Leicester Square.

We found the TKTS ticket booth but not many tickets were available. We probably have to come in the morning on the day that we want to watch the show for the discounted tickets.

The M&M store at Leicester Square is worth a visit if you like chocolates. The decor includes a large red London bus at the entrance. We were given free samples of M&M chocolates upon entry and a choc-lover would go crazy inside. So much M&M chocolates on sale and some interactive displays.

Depicting the famous Beatles crossing the Abbey Road at the basement of M&M store in Leicester Square.

Chinatown, with its many restaurants, was just round the corner from the M&M store. Instead of Chinese food again, we decided to have dinner at Burger & Lobster restaurant at 36 Dean Street. This restaurant does not take reservations. Just need to show up and wait for a table. We waited about 30 minutes for our table. We overheard that the later arrivals would have to wait about 90 minutes for a table.

20 sterling pounds for a lobster or a burger. Lobster, of course. Our waiter, who is from Sicily, was very friendly. He told us how the lobsters were flown in from Canada, kept alive in tanks and even offered to show us the tanks. I declined his offer to view the tanks as the restaurant was crowded and I didn’t want to take up his time and kept others waiting longer outside.

Grilled Maine lobster with salad, fries and buttery dips with white wine recommended by the waiter.

The food was worth the wait. We enjoyed our lobster dinner and intend to come back again, given the chance.

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