6 March 2025
After a free and easy morning at the New World Hoiana Hotel and a thrilling adventure on a coconut boat tour, we spent the rest of the day exploring Hoi An Ancient Town.
The first thing we did in town was to have lunch. During my previous trip to Hoi An, we had enjoyed some of the best Vietnamese cuisine in the old town. See my previous post on “What and where to eat while in Hoi An”.
Banh Mi lunch at Madam Kanh
Definitely a “must eat” in Hoi An is the banh mi. There are a couple of excellent banh mi restaurants. Our group chose to go to Madam Khanh, also known as the Banh Mi Queen. My wife and I had eaten Madam Khanh’s banh mi back in 2017 and we loved them. Hence it was good to be back.
While waiting for our seats, I had to opportunity to witness the staff making the banh mi at the entrance. Back in 2017, our banh mi were made to order by the madam herself.
With business booming, the banh mi preparation process ran like clockwork. The baguettes were toasted in ovens, pre-sliced and filled with basic ingredients first. Depending on the order, other ingredients were then added. This really speed up the preparation process and ensure faster turnovers.
Pre-toasted and pre-filled baguettes waiting to be customised to order.
After a short wait, we were shown our seats. The staff was apologetic that they had to split us into two groups. 4 persons on the ground floor and the other 4 persons on the second floor. We don’t mind that since the small restaurant was quite crowded.
6 types of banh mi on the menu.
The menu had grown to be more extensive compared to last time we were here in 2017 where there were only three choices (mixed, vegetarian and chicken) in the food menu.
We ate the Mixed Banh Mi and BBQ Pork (Char Siew) Banh Mi. Each banh mi now costs 40,000 VND each. Double of what it was 9 years ago but still less than a quarter of what it may have cost back home.
Mixed Banh Mi and BBQ Pork Banh Mi. Sliced in halves for easy sharing.
Home made chilli on table to add the spiciness to our liking. The chilli paste is potent!
The thing I enjoyed most about the banh mi in Vietnam, especially Madam Khanh’s, is the excellent baguette. The baguette we had was warm, flavourful with a crispy outer crust and soft but chewy inside.
The Mixed Banh Mi is more savoury while BBQ Pork Banh Mi is sweeter and had more pate. They are both value for money, delicious food, hence the justifiable queue.
My only complain was the drinks that were served. The salt coffee for 50,000 VND is overpriced and disappointing. It had too much crushed ice and little coffee. It would be better to have soft drink (20,000 VND) or a local beer.
Overall, the lunch experience in this restaurant was good, despite the crowd and overpriced coffee. The service staff are friendly and customer focused. After our meal, we make our payment to the Madam. The elderly lady sat at entrance with a shoe box sized cardboard box to store her cash collection.
Xi Ma – black sesame sweet pudding
After lunch, I led the group to search for the Xi Ma roadside stall that sells the delicious black sesame sweet pudding. This was one of the street foods we tried in Hoi An back in 2017 which I enjoyed and the stall was still there! Google Map location here.
One of the few street foods I dare to try in Vietnam.
Xi Ma is a dessert made with ground black sesame seeds, sugar and local well water. For me, I think the dessert was not as good as previously as it was slightly too bitter. Probably, due to over roasting of the sesame seeds. Nevertheless, it was still delicious.
Each bowl is 10,000 VND. One of the guys in my group ate 3 bowls.
A walk through the old town
After our dessert, we took a walk to the riverside through the old town. We passed Madam Khanh again. There was no queue outside after the peak lunch hour.
Hoi An Ancient Town had not changed very much since the last time I was here except that it had become more crowded and there are more Korean tourists than before.
It was fun to walk across town through the narrow alleyway instead of the crowded main streets. Occasionally, we would encounter a motorbike or a bicycle squeezing through.
We eventually ended up on Cafe Street or Trần Phú Street. The street is dotted with traditional houses and many cafes. Popular cafes includes Faifo Coffee (famous for its rooftop view), Mot Hoi An (herbal tea), and Fika Cafe (salt coffee).
Herbal drink at MOT Hoi An.
We joined the queue at MOT to buy the refreshing, aromatic herbal drink designed to detoxify and cool the body.
The drink, with plenty of crushed ice, was refreshing and worth the queue. The only problem was that no litter bins were provided at the store. We had to spend time to find a suitable place to throw the used paper cups.
Japanese Covered Bridge
Walking down Trần Phú Street, we arrived at the Japanese Covered Bridge. The Japanese Covered Bridge is a unique and beloved symbol of Hoi An that was built by the Japanese traders in early 17th century. The bridge was constructed with a roof so that it could be used as a shelter from both rain and sun.
Hoi An Ancient Town has many well-preserved buildings that reflects both indigenous and foreign cultures, especially Chinese, Japanese and later European. In my previous visit, my wife and I spent time to explore the interior of some of these interesting historical buildings. You can read about the best places to visit while exploring Hoi An’s UNESCO World Heritage old town here.
Hoi An Riverside
The Hoai River that flows through Hoi An Ancient Town is a major focal point for visitors. It is a tributary of the Thu Bon River flowing through Hoi An.
In the old days, merchant ships once sailed up and down this river. Nowadays, boats carry tourists for sightseeing and joyrides especially in the late evening and at night when the weather is cooler.
I enjoyed loitering around the riverside, watching the boats and people that goes by.
We went to chill at a cafe by the river before our next activity which was a foot massage.
Foot Massage at My Heaven Spa
The spa in Hoi An is quite affordable and having a massage is a good activity to do at the end of the day. We chose to do foot massage at My Heaven Spa which was recommended by my travelling companions.
We were given a small discount by the owner since he recognised my friends from their previous visits.
Washing the feet prior to the foot massage.
Hoi An Riverside at Night
By the time we finished our foot massage, the sky had turned dark. The ancient town and riverside area were more beautiful at night when the lanterns are lit.
The tourists were out in force. So were the vendors. Many were offering boat rides and selling candle-lit, paper lotus flowers to release onto the river in return for good fortune and peace.
Candle-lit, paper lotus flowers sold at Hoi An Riverside.
I think it is not a good idea to buy and release the floating paper lanterns as it pollutes the waterway.
Colourful and brightly lit motorised boats.
The town itself is also beautifully lit at night. Here are some photos:
Dinner at Met Vietnamese Restaurant
We chose to have local cuisine at the MẸT Vietnamese Restaurant & Vegetarian Food in Hoi An. This restaurant, located by the side of the river, is a highly-rated dining spot known for its cozy atmosphere, scenic river views, and extensive menu of traditional Vietnamese dishes.
Entrance of the Met Vietnamese Restaurant.
One of the dishes we ordered was the Cao Lau, a noodle that can only be made in Hoi An.
Why?
Authentic Cao Lau is prepared only with water drawn from ancient Cham wells hidden around Hoi An. Some even claim that the water used to prepare the noodle’s dough must be drawn from the town’s Ba Le well, famed for its purity. This resulted in a noodle that is thick and chewy and slightly yellowish, off white in colour.
Loved the flavourful crispy pork rind on top of the chewy Cao Lau noodles. Besides the Cao Lau, we also tried the Hanoi Grilled Fish or Chả cá Hà Nội. This is special grilled fish is marinated with turmeric and served on a bed of sweet, sliced onions. It also came with a tray of fresh herbs, roasted peanuts, vermicelli, pineapples and rice paper. We are to place the ingredients onto the rice paper, rolled them together and then dipped into the spicy sauce before eating.
