20 November 2025
There are several hanok villages in Seoul, most famous being Bukchon. Ikseon-dong Hanok Village is the newest and up-and-coming one that has gained in popularity in the last few years. While Bukchon Hanok Village is a traditional, residential neighborhood, Ikseon-dong is trendier with cafés, restaurants, and boutique shops.
Ikseon-dong was Seoul's oldest hanok residential area from the 1920s. But in 2014, the city government permitted the renovation of the hanoks for businesses. Today, most of the traditional hanoks along the narrow alleyways had been repurposed into trendy boutiques, themed cafes, restaurants and pubs.
Located in Jongno-gu and next to Insadong, Ikseon-dong is easily accessible by subway or bus. After a morning of exploring the area around Naksan Park, we came to Ikseon-dong for lunch and also to check out the famous cafes.
I had earmarked a few restaurants to check out. The first restaurant we went to was the Ikseon Chwihyang. This is a Western restaurant that serves excellent steak and pasta. Like most excellent restaurant, there was a long queue when we arrived. We were too hungry to wait for a table. We gave up and went to Damsot Ikseon instead.
Lunch at Damsot Ikseon
Damsot Ikseon serves pot rice using a type of iron pot called damsot that is supposed to enhance the flavor and texture of food as it cooks. Very much like the claypot rice we are familiar with back home.
We actually wanted to try this dish when we were at Seongsu-dong but the pot rice restaurant at Seongsu-dong was too crowded.
At this Ikseon-dong branch, there was no queue and we were quickly seated. The menu offers various proteins to go with the rice in the pot such as abalone, beef, chicken, salmon, eel etc. We ordered their signature steak pot rice.
The steak pot rice was beautifully presented in the iron pot with cubes of grilled beef, a raw egg yolk, sesame seeds and wasabi.
We are supposed to mix everything together in the pot, like eating bibimbap. Then we are to scoop out the rice onto a bowl or eat the rice directly from the pot. At the end of the meal, the crispy, charred rice at the bottom is to be mixed with the ochazuke broth for a soothing fermented soup.
Unfortunately, the pot was not hot enough so there were little crispy rice bits. The rice with raw egg mixed in, also become soggy. I also find that the beef cubes were not seasoned strongly but they tasted good with a bit of the sweet sauce dip. The wasabi very good and potent enough to bring tears to my eyes.
Overall, we enjoyed our lunch at Damsot despite the above shortcomings. The portion was not large, so we will have room for dessert later at one of the cafes.
Cafes at Ikseon-dong
There is probably no better place for cafe hopping than in Ikseon-dong. I have shortlisted a few cafes but sadly, we could not try them all without getting a caffeine over-dose. Instead we went into “browse and photo” mode where we went to take a look and shoot a photo instead of spending time and money inside.
Another store that serves the salt bread is the Jayeondo Sogeumppang Salt Bread booth in Ikseon-dong. Same as the Seongsu store, there is a minimum purchase of one 4-pack (₩12,000) per order.
Rain Report Cafe with artificial rain coming down the roof.
After browsing several cafes, we settled inside Cafe Onhwa Ikseon to have desserts. Like most cafes in Ikseon-dong, this cafe is housed inside a beautifully renovated hanok but came with an airy feel when seated next to the hanok’s open courtyard.
This cafe serves amazing souffle pancakes that are freshly made ensuring the best texture and taste. We have all the time in the world to wait 20 minutes for the souffle masterpiece.
The cafe offers a selection of beverages, including hand-drip coffee, matcha latte but we chose to have something fruity.
Another notable cafe in Ikseon-dong is the Cheong Su Dang Bakery. This cafe’s iconic entrance of lush bamboo trees around a small pond with stepping stones leading to the entrance of the cafe is probably one of the most popular photo spot around this neighborhood. Unfortunately, we were not able to find this cafe!
There are many more excellent cafes that we have missed. One more reason to come back to Seoul and Ikseon-dong in the near future.
Dinner at Jangsu Samgyetang
We ended our visit to Ikseon-dong with dinner at a samgyetang restaurant. Samgyetang, or Korean ginseng chicken soup, is a nourishing dish featuring a whole young chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, garlic, jujubes, and ginseng. We went to Jangsu Samgyetang located neat Exit 4 of the Jongno 3-ga subway station. Google map location here.
As the restaurant is located on 2F, the entrance to the restaurant is not prominent. Even at the 2F entrance, we hesitated to enter until a friendly staff waved us in after we asked “ Jangsu?”
There were many locals in the restaurant which was a good sign. The service staff quickly brought us an English menu which means that many tourists come to this place as well.
The menu offered half portion for people like my wife who does not have a good appetite. We ordered a regular samgyetang and a half-sized healthier yak-samgyetang that has added herbal medicine.
We were served a small glass of complimentary ginseng wine that we could drink as a shot or added to the soup to enhance the medicinal flavor of the meal. There is also the usual banchan or side dishes that include fresh kimchi, pickled garlic, and green chillies.
Overall, Jangsu is a highly recommended for their delicious and value-for-money samgyetang.
Seoul Fortress Wall at Naksan Park.
Gingko tree with beautiful yellow leaves in autumn.
This red-brick building in Marronnier Park is a theatre.
4 leaf clover design using fallen gingko leaves. Nice artistic work by the road-sweepers.
Outside an Italian Restaurant (Di Matteo Daehakro) on our way to Naksan Park.
Interesting sculpture at the edge of the mural village.
Tree bared of leaves but laden with many birds’ nests.
Autumn foliage could be seen on some trees.
View of Seoul city and the mountains surrounding it.
View of the Seoul City Wall with views of downtown Seoul. Unfortunately, there are many unsightly cranes all over the city.
Sign indicating this part of the Seoul City Wall was featured in the movie K-Pop Demon Hunters.
Walking along the trail next to the fortress wall. 
This view would be even better at night, with the twinkling city lights. 
Autumn colours could be seen from Naksan Park.
A selfie photo with help of a mirror.
N Seoul Tower on Namsan Mountain as viewed from Naksan Park.
One of the murals we saw.
Mural of white angel wings that is half destroyed.
Baeogae Bakery next to Cafe Gaebbul.
Coffee break with a view. 
Seoul city and the iconic N Seoul Tower on Namsan.
The street in Ihwa Mural Village where the cafes were located.
I think this is another cafe. Cat-themed cafe.
This street leads down to Daehak-ro. We did not take this street all the way down.
Cafes also lined this road towards Dongdaemun.
This stretch of fortress wall towards Dongdaemun is quite nice.
View of Heunginjimun, the East Gate of Seoul.
A stunning autumn landscape in Seoul with the swaying silver grass, historical fortress wall and gate.
Dongdaemun Stationery and Toy Street.
Checking out the Remote Controlled, 4WD Monster Trucks for my grandson.
A bit of nostalgia sets in after seeing the figurine of Astroboy in one of the shops. This is a character from a cartoon TV series I watched as a kid.
Seungjin Toy store - One of the most famous and largest, most comprehensive shops in the area with the giant gorilla figure and bear on the storefront.
Outside Seungjin Toy Store. Posing next to Pororo, with bags of toys that we bought!