Road Trip from Asahikawa to Jozankei Onsen

25 May 2026

After a heavy rain the previous night, the morning weather at Asahikawa was fine. Once again we had our breakfast at Grand Farm Buffet before checking out from JR Inn Asahikawa Hotel. Overall, we had a nice stay at this hotel with many amenities nearby and views of the railway tracks from our room.

The plan for the day was to drive from Asahikawa to Jozankei Onsen where we will stay for a night. Jozankei Onsen is a historic hot spring town nestled in the Shikotsu-Toya National Park along the Toyohira River. Located just 60 minutes south of central Sapporo, it features sodium chloride-rich therapeutic waters and is a good place to pamper ourselves with great food and onsen in a luxury hotel.

We did not take the most direct and shortest route to Jozankei Onsen as I planned to make a few stops for sight-seeing in the general direction towards Sapporo and Jozankei Onsen.

Our sightseeing stops include the following

• Catbus or Nekobus - an attraction for fans of the Totoro anime.
• Royce Cacao&Chocolate Town for a factory tour.
• Maeda Forest Park for the wisterias.
• Asari Sky Loop and Asari Dam.

Catbus or Neko-bus in Japanese

The observation deck in Totoro Pass is about 30 minutes drive from Asahikawa. Google Map location here. Located on top of a hill, we could see beautiful views of farmland and paddy fields below us.

View from Totoro Pass.

A derelict bus, sitting just 100m away from the Totoro Pass car park, is painted to mimic the Catbus from the Studio Ghibli film, “My Neighbor Totoro”, which was released in 1988. This was why we came to the pass. To see this whimsical attraction, not the view. The surrounding was quite peaceful and it was worth a short stop to snap some photos of the bus and also soak in the rural landscape. Catbus with its bus stop post and even a bus timetable on it.

Timetable that has the same schedules and destinations as it does in the movie. A bit dirty though.

A figure of Totoro painted on the door of the bus.

Royce Cacao&Chocolate Town

Our next stop was Royce Cacao&Chocolate Town located in the town of Tobetsu, about 40 minutes drive from central Sapporo.     This is the place where the famous Royce chocolates are made.

Visitors could experience the “Farm to Bar” journey from cacao cultivation on the farm to the production of Royce’ chocolates in the factory through factory tours, various exhibits and interactive experience. And of course, buy some of the products to eat or being home as gifts.

The 106 km drive to Tobetsu from Totoro Pass took about 1 hour 15 minutes via the E5 expressway (toll-road) and National Route 337. We overtook many tanker trucks on Route 337 near the town of Tobetsu. We would soon find out what these tankers were carrying. Not oil or water, but fresh cream and other ingredients for the chocolates!

Walking to the main entrance of the factory from the large visitors’ car park, we saw a beautiful garden with gazebos outside the factory. This place is famous for their rose garden in summer. There were some roses blooming in May but the garden was still not at its best.

Logo monument outside the factory with some roses plants in May.

At the ground floor of the factory is the Royce Town Factory shop that sells more than 200 kinds of chocolates and baked confections, including soft-serve ice-cream and special breads. There are also some limited edition products, sold only at this shop.

The first thing we bought was a couple of chocolate soft-serve ice-cream that is highly raved by visitors. There is a large eat-in area with tables and chairs for customers to consume the items bought at the shop.

Chocolate soft-serve ice-cream that is a must-try at the shop.

Once done with the ice-cream, we paid the admission fees for the factory tour (1200 JPY/person) and took an elevator to the third floor (3F). The tour starts from 3F and we would work our way back down to 1F.

3F has the Cacao Farm Zone and the Factory Tour Zone. In the Cacao Farm Zone, we got to experience what it would be like to visit Royce’s own cacao farm in Colombia, South America. The exhibits show cacao cultivation, harvesting and shipping.

The Cacao Farm Zone recreates the atmosphere of the ROYCE’ Cacao Farm in Colombia, South America.

Ripe pods (which range from yellow to red) must be carefully harvested by hand. We could try to hold a sample pod to feel the weight.

The pods are split open by hand to extract 30 to 50 seeds, which are coated in a sweet, sticky white pulp.

We saw how the cacao beans were fermented, then dried in the sun to get the essence of the chocolate aroma. Dried beans are then cleaned to remove twigs or debris before shipping to the factory.

Visitors could try their hand in raking the beans on a simulated drying rack in the exhibit.

It felt like an educational tour to a science museum. There are even quizzes to test how much we had learnt from the exhibits.

Moving from Cacao Farm Zone to the Factory Tour Zone, we got to experience the process of suiting up in factory attire and taking an air-shower to enter a “clean-room” environment.

We could even take a commemorative photo in this machine.

Taking an air shower to remove dust from our suited body before entering the production area.

In this area, we took a tour of an actual cacao bean processing plant. We could peek at exact bean-to-chocolate operations through glass-walled and interactive exhibits.

The chart showing what ingredients are used to make milk, white or bitter chocolates.

Interesting information on why the Nama chocolates are so smooth. Plenty of fresh cream is used.

Exiting from the Factory Tour Zone, we came to the Play Zone where most of the kids were having fun with the exhibits. There was even a section where a free chocolate pops out from the wall after we completed an activity.

We had some fun at the chocolate chips simulator. We took some photos to show the kids back home.

 

Walking through a chocolate curtain to be coated with chocolate.

The last section before entering the Factory Shop on the 1F is the Royce’ Collection Street. The exhibition features a valuable collection of chocolate labels and tins related with chocolate from around the world.

Collections and Art Related to Chocolate and the History of ROYCE’.

Collection of chocolate labels and tins related with chocolate from around the world.

Various packaging  and labels for Royce’s Chocolates.

Visitors who take the factory tour could sign up for a Chocolate Workshop to make their own chocolate. Additional fees apply. We did not have the time nor interest to do this.

Overall, we spent about 2 hours at the factory, including time to shop for some chocolates to bring home. Royce’ chocolates are worth buying as it is about half of what it would have cost back home. We only bought a few, since we plan to buy more at Chitose Airport before leaving Hokkaido.

Before leaving, we bought some chocolate bread for our picnic lunch at Maeda Forest Park.

Maeda Forest Park

We made a stop at Maeda Forest Park since the park is one of Japan's top destinations for wisteria, with 350 trees blooming from late May to early June.

Maeda Park is only a short drive from Royce Cacao&Chocolate Town. There are several free car parks around the very large park. We chose to park near the photogenic 600-meter-long canal that perfectly aligns with Mount Teineyama, as well as its towering poplar trees on both sides. Google Map location here. 

The canal and fountain at Maeda Forest Park. Unfortunately, Mount Teineyama is not fully visible in the distance.

The area by the canal seemed like a good picnic spot until we spotted some lurking crows. We decide to picnic under the trellis with the blooming wisterias instead.

It was a good choice. We could smell the fragrance from the flowers while enjoying our picnic.

Section of the 320m-long trellis of wisterias in the park.

The wisterias were not in full bloom yet but still pretty.

Chocolate bread from Royce.

Chocolate and bean paste fillings in the bread.

There is a building with an observation deck at the far end of the canal. This building has toilet facilities, vending machine and a nice view of the canal and trellis.

View from the observation deck.           Wisterias are vines that produces hanging blooms that looks like a chandelier.

There are not many people in the large park on a weekday afternoon. We saw mostly elderly folks on wheelchairs and young people with pet dogs.

I loved the reflection of the poplar trees on the canal. Unfortunately, there is a slight breeze causing ripples.

I was hoping to see some ducklings in spring but there were none.

Asari Sky Loop and Dam

From Maeda Forest Park, we drove through Asari town to get to Jozankei Onsen via Prefectural Road No. 1. This route runs alongside the Asari Dam. Just below the dam lies Hokkaido's first-ever loop bridge, Asari Ohashi or Asari Sky Loop. 

Asari Dam as viewed from the Sky Loop.

Driving up to the Asari Dam via the Asari Sky Loop.

There is a small car park located right next to the dam. Google Map location here. From there, we could walk onto the 390 metres long walkway right on top of the dam and get a nice view of the valley below and the Asari Sky Loop.

                                    View of the valley below and the Asari Sky Loop.

View of Otarunai Lake from the dam.

Unlike many dams in Japan, Asari Dam does not generate hydropower. It is for flood control, river flow maintenance and water supply. By impounding the Asari River, the dam structure creates Otarunai Lake.

The dam is 73.9 metres high.

It was quite scary looking over the edge and seeing water discharging from the dam.

After the brief stop at the dam, we continued down the narrow Prefecture Road No 1 towards Jozankei Onsen. Sapporo Lake is located along the route with some observations decks. We did not stop for the views since we were running a little late.

Our hotel in Jozankei Onsen is the Shogetsu Grand Hotel. The check-in time is 3 PM and there are very nice facilities in the hotel that we could enjoy after check-in.

Next post: Rest and relaxation in Shogetsu Grand Hotel at Jozankei Onsen.

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A bit of Holland in Hokkaido

24 May 2026

Our last destination for the day was at the town of Yubetsu, located about an hour’s drive from Mombetsu. Earlier in the day, we had visited Takinoue’s Shibazakura Park and Mombetsu.

The Kamiyubetsu Tulip Park is a popular tourist attraction in Yubetsu Town. Every year from early May to early June, around 700,000 tulips of nearly 200 vibrant varieties transform the park into one of Hokkaido’s most spectacular floral landscapes. Many visitors, from both Japan and overseas, come to enjoy the vibrant display during this one-month period. Even the roadside planter boxes within the town contain tulips.

From mid to late May, vivid red, yellow, pink, and purple tulips burst into bloom, creating a breathtaking tapestry of color at Kamiyubetsu Tulip Park.

We arrived at the Kamiyubetsu Tulip Park at about 3.15 PM. Entry to the park costs 500 Yen/person. In typical Japanese fashion, we had to buy the tickets from a ticket machine and show it to the staff to enter. 

The Kamiyubetsu Tulip Fair opens annually on May 1.

We could see rows and rows of colourful tulips, as far as the eye could see. 

In the center, there is a Dutch windmill-style observation deck overlooking the park.

Dutch windmill-style observation deck.

There are also several raised platforms at various corners, allowing visitors to get panoramic views. 

We took our time to stroll through the fields, snapping plenty of photos.

 

Visitors could also enjoy a leisurely ride on the electric sightseeing buggy, which circles the grounds in about 18 minutes.

We saw some visitors (local Japanese) digging up tulips and bulbs to bring home, for a fee.

There are some props for the photo enthusiasts or instagrammers. A blue “Door to Nowhere” seemed a bit out of place and it was the third such doors we encountered on this trip. I must say only the pink door located in the midst of tall yellow canola flowers in the Takikawa Nanohara Festival was the most photogenic.

There are also Dutch-themed props like a giant wooden clogs and giant tulips to match the windmill that is in the center of the park.

Blue coloured “Door to Nowhere”.

Trying on the wooden clogs.   

We spent slightly over an hour at the park. From Yubetsu, the 133 km drive back to Asahikawa would take about 2 hours.

A place to get some coffee before our long drive back to Asahikawa.

We actually wanted to make a brief stop at Maruseppu Fujien Park to see the wisterias that is supposed to be in bloom at this time of year but the road to the car park looks kind of dangerous. It was a narrow road through a forest, and up a steep slope. It was also getting dark so we aborted the plan with the park just 100m away.

Rainy Evening in Asahikawa

As forecasted, there was heavy rain as we approached Asahikawa. Fortunately, our hotel in Asahikawa (JR Inn Asahikawa) is located right next to Aeon Mall Asahikawa Station, so we need not go out in the rain to grab dinner.

There are many restaurants in Aeon Mall, including a large food court. We decided to have tempura for dinner at Fukutei Totoro. We ordered an assorted tempura set, a big shrimp tempura set and a grilled Atka Mackerel to share. The Atka mackerel, natively known as hokke, is an iconic wild-caught fish from the icy, nutrient-rich waters of Hokkaido. This fish is quite sweet with rich, buttery flesh and abundant omega-3s.

Big shrimp tempura set at Fukutei Totoro.

Grilled Atka Mackerel that had been dried and aged overnight.

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