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Trip Overview - 9 days Cherry blossoms viewing at Tokyo and Hakone

April is a good time to visit Japan as it coincides with the cherry blossom season. However, during the expected Sakura season, air tickets are not cheap and hotel room rates could go double or even triple. And the cheaper and better rooms get sold out pretty quickly during this time as many tourists and even locals travels to the popular cherry blossoms viewing sites. 

Some of the 1000 sakura trees planted at the riverside along Sumida River.
It is a good idea to check the Japan Cherry Blossom forecast websites when planning the itinerary. The cherry blossom or Sakura season in Japan is about a week and it could starts and ends earlier or later than forecasted, depending on the weather for the year. So, it was a case of planning the trip and hoping for the best. 


Excellent Japanese food is not to be missed while travelling in Japan. Although one could find Japanese restaurants back home, the best Japanese food is obviously found nowhere else but in Japan.


During my trip planning, besides deciding on where to go, what to see and where to stay, it made sense to do some research on the best places to enjoy the best wagyu beef, ramen, tonkatsu, etc. while in Tokyo. 


The following is the itinerary of our 9 days trip to Tokyo in April 2015, including a 3 days side trip to Hakone and Kawaguchiko to enjoy hot springs baths (onsens) at ryokans and see Mount Fuji.

Day 1  (2 April 2015)


Travel from home to Narita Airport, arriving in the evening.

Travel by bus to Tokyo Station.

There are many ways to get to Tokyo station. I took the Access Narita Bus instead of the trains since the bus station at Tokyo Station is nearest to my hotel compared to the train platforms in the massive and confusing Tokyo Station. The bus is also the cheapest option – 1000 Yen (just pay in cash on the bus.).  The journey took 1 hour 30 minutes. 

Chidorigafuchi Park, one of the best places to view cherry blossoms in Tokyo at nightChidorigafuchi Park at night.

Spend the evening at Chidorigafuchi Park, one of the best places to view cherry blossoms in Tokyo at night.


Where I Stayed:  APA Hotel Ginza Kyobashi, within walking distance to Tokyo Station and near to Kyobashi subway station. Although its location at Ginza is excellent, this is not a value-for-money hotel in my opinion. I did my hotel bookings “quite late” (one and half months before travel!) and there was not much choices left.


Trip report – Cherry Blossoms at Yasukuni Shrine and Chidorigafuchi Park.

Day 2  (3 April 2015)

Take subway from Kyobashi station  to Okachimachi Station.  Walk along Ameyoko shopping street. This street runs from Okachimachi to Ueno Station and is an lively open market along the railway tracks.
Go to Ueno Park to see cherry blossoms.
Thereafter, take the subway from Ueno station to Asakusa Station. See
Asakusa temple and Nakamise street.

AsakusaAsakusa

In the evening, walk from Asakusa to Sumida Park and River, one of the best 100 Sakura Spots in Japan. There are about 1000 Sakura planted along with the riverside. During the Hanami period which is between end of March to middle of April, there are a lot of ceremonies or events, such as traditional dance, music or Nursery rhyme song. Also, there many Yatai which sell food, toys or snacks during this time.

For dinner, try the famous Kobe Beef at the popular Gyu-an Restaurant in Ginza district.

Where I Stayed:
 APA Hotel Ginza Kyobashi, within walking distance to Tokyo Station and near to Kyobashi subway station.

Trip report - Cherry Blossoms Viewing at Ueno Park.

Trip report - Asakusa Temple and Nakamise Street.

Trip report - Cherry Blossom Viewing at Sumida Park and Kobe Beef dinner at Gyu-an Restaurant in Ginza district.

Day 3  (4 April 2015)

Visit the famous Tsukiji Fish Market, located about 15 to 20 minutes’ walk from the APA GInza Kobashi hotel. Visit both the Outer and Inner Market and visit the Namiyoke Inari Shrine next to the market. “Namiyoke” means protection from the waves. Since the Edo period, the worshippers came to the shrine to pray for safe voyage, good luck and averting misfortune.

Tip: Go with an empty stomach and have the freshest seafood (sushi and sashimi) at the Outer Tsukiji Market.

After the morning visit to Tsukiji Market, walk to Ginza, Tokyo's most famous upmarket shopping, dining and entertainment district.

Chuo Dori in Ginza.Chuo Dori in Ginza.

On weekends afternoon, the central Chuo Dori street was closed to automobile traffic and became a large pedestrian zone. The road closure took place from 12:00 to 17:00.

Akihabara was our next stop after Ginza. Akihabara is an interesting place with much to see, e.g. all sorts of electronic stores, “maid cafes” and a 7-storey building meant for adults only.

End the day with dinner at Tokyo Station’s Ramen Street. It features Ramen stores operated by eight renowned names in Tokyo ramen.

Where I Stayed:  APA Hotel Ginza Kyobashi, within walking distance to Tokyo Station and near to Kyobashi subway station.

Trip report - Tsukiji Fish Market and Namiyoke Inari Shrine.

Day 4  (5 April 2015)

Go to Shibuya and experience walking across the famous intersection outside the Shibuya Station. Dog lovers should not miss seeing the Hachiko statue at the entrance of the Shibuya Station too. There are also plenty to keep the shopaholics busy.

From Shibuya, head northwards to Harajuku. On most Sunday, Harajuku would be teeming with teens engaging in cosplay. More shoppings for the shopaholics at Takeshita Dori (Takeshita Street).

From the end of Takeshita Street, walk into Omotesando Hills. Omotesando is a broad, one kilometer long, tree lined avenue that is referred to as Tokyo's Champs-Elysees.
Eat at one of the best restaurants serving Tonkatsu (breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet) in Tokyo. The Maisen restaurant is a few hundred meters off the main Omotesando avenue, on a small street.

Where I Stayed:
 APA Hotel Ginza Kyobashi, within walking distance to Tokyo Station and near to Kyobashi subway station.

Trip report - Wandering around Shibuya, Harajuku, Omotesando and Chidorigafuchi Park at night.

Day 5  (6 April 2015)

After staying 4 nights at APA Hotel Ginza Kyobashi, we shifted to a hotel near Shinjuku Station.

After settling into our new hotel at Shinjuku, we took a JR train to Kichijoji to have Matsuzaka beef at a steakhouse, called Beef Satou. Matsuzaka Beef comes from the Matsuzaka region, and is consider the top brand of beef in Japan, alongside Kobe beef.

Matsuzaka beef at a steakhouse, called Beef Satou at Kichijoji.“Melts in your mouth” tenderness and juiciness of the Matsuzaka beef at a steakhouse, called Beef Satou at Kichijoji.

Opening hours for the restaurant.
Lunch: 11:00 am - 03:00 pm;
Dinner: 05:00 pm - 09:00 pm. 

Try to arrive before opening time to avoid queue.

After lunch, check out the cherry blossoms at the nearby Inokashira Park.

Cherry blossoms at the Inokashira Park in Kichijoji.Cherry blossoms at the Inokashira Park in Kichijoji.


Return to Tokyo by JR train and visit the Meiji Shrine, located within Yoyogi Park. The entrance to the park is next to the Harajuku Station.

Where I Stayed: Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku at Shinjuku, within walking distance to Shinjuku Station. Shinjuku is a good place to stay before and after our side trip to Hakone.

Trip report - Eating the famous Matsuzaka Beef at Steakhouse Satou.

Trip report – Cherry blossoms at Inokashira Park in Kichijoji.

Trip report - Visit to Meiji Shrine in Tokyo.

Day 6  (7 April 2015)

Make a 2 days side trip to Hakone and Kawaguchiko area (to see Mount Fuji and try the onsens) and then come back to Shinjuku again.

Travel by Odakyu Railways from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station.
Do the
Hakone model sightseeing course.

Steam vents and hot pools at the Owakudani volcanic area, one of the interesting destinations along the Hakone sightseeing course.Steam vents and hot pools at the Owakudani volcanic area, one of the interesting destinations along the Hakone sightseeing course.


This round course starts and ends in Hakone-Yumoto and circles the Hakone region in the counter-clockwise direction with five different means of transport (train, cable car, ropeway, boat and bus), using the Hakone Free Pass or 3 Day Fuji Hakone Pass.

End the day with a delicious kaiseki dinner at the ryokan and a soak in the private hot spring bath (onsen).

Semi-open private onsen for two persons at the Hakone Yumoto Onsen Pax Yoshino..Semi-open private onsen for two persons at the Hakone Yumoto Onsen Pax Yoshino ryokan.

Where I Stayed: Hakone Yumoto Onsen Pax Yoshino ryokan at Hakone. It is within walking distance to the Hakone Yumoto station, and also provides free shuttle bus services to and from the station.

The Japanese style rooms has bath that uses natural hot spring water. Some rooms have semi open-air bath with artistic Japanese cypress bath tub and guests could enjoy hot spring bathing (onsen) in an open environment with mountains and river in front of you. Chartered private hot spring (onsen) are also available and requires a reservation at check-in.

Trip report - Hakone and Kawaguchiko side trip from Tokyo – Day 1.

Day 7  (8 April 2015)

Travel by public bus from Hakone-Yumoto Station to the Lake Kawaguchiko area. There are 5 lakes around Mount Fuji. Lake Kawaguchiko is one the best. Visit the Gotemba Premium Outlet mall that is conveniently located on the way.

Must try local dish at Kawaguchiko: Houtou noodles. A recommended restaurant serving this is located just across the Kawaguchiko Station.

Must try food at Kawaguchiko: Houtou. Houtou is a traditional thick noodles served directly out of the pot with miso broth.


Nice cherry blossoms just outside Kozantei Ubuya at Lake Kawaguchiko. Nice cherry blossoms just outside Kozantei Ubuya at Lake Kawaguchiko.


Spend the rest of the day enjoying the facilities of the luxury ryokan and/or enjoy views of the Mount Fuji at Kawaguchiko.

Where I Stayed: Kozantei Ubuya ryokan at Lake Kawaguchiko area. Kozantei Ubuya is one of the best ryokans located on the northern part of Lake Kawaguchiko that offers good views of Mount Fuji across the lake. Along this stretch of the shore, quite a lot of cherry tree were planted and this is one of the best spot to photograph the cherry blossoms with the lake and Mount Fuji in the background. We could call the hotel to arrange for free car pickup from the Kawaguchiko station.

Trip report  - Hakone and Kawaguchiko side trip from Tokyo – Day 2.

Day 8  (9 April 2015)

Cherry blossom trees in bloom along the scenic lakeside path at Lake Kawaguchi
Cherry blossom trees in bloom along the scenic lakeside path at Lake Kawaguchi.
Morning walk along lake and sightseeing around Lake Kawaguchi until time to leave for Shinjuku in Tokyo by the highway bus.

Tip: Book your seats on the bus online even though the fare were already included in Fuji Hakone Pass.

End the day free and easy around Shinjuku area and try more of the excellent Japanese cuisine. There are many eateries and restaurants around Shinjuku area.

Where I Stayed: Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku at Shinjuku, within walking distance to Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal and Shinjuku Station. This hotel is also a pick-up point for the airport limousine bus.

Trip report - Hakone and Kawaguchiko side trip from Tokyo – Day 3.

Day 9  (10 April 2015)

Free and easy around Shinjuku, till it was time to head for the airport. 

Tip: Stop by Hotel Gracery Shinjuku if you are a fan of Godzilla.

We took a relaxing airport limousine bus ride to Narita Airport from the doorstep of our hotel.

Trip report - Wandering around Shinjuku

Other trip planning tips:

1. Travel within Tokyo

Use the efficient public transportation system within Tokyo. Check out this mobile phone app:  Tokyo Subway Navigation for Tourists is a free application officially provided by Tokyo Metro to enable users to search transfer information for the Tokyo Subway network (Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway).

Buy the Suica or Pasmo IC cards or rechargeable cards from any ticket machines. These cards can be used to conveniently pay fares on public transportation and to make payments at a rapidly increasing number of vending machines, shops and restaurants by simply touching the card on a reader for about one second.  I found this is most convenient when travelling by the subway within Tokyo as I don’t have to figure out the fares and buy a ticket every time I take the public transport. Just tap and go.

Note however that many airport limousine buses and most highway buses cannot be paid by IC card.

2. Side trip from Tokyo to Hakone and Kawaguchiko

It made sense to buy the 3 day Fuji Hakone Pass to save some money and also for convenience. The Fuji Hakone Pass is a rail pass for exclusive use by non-Japanese passport holders.

This tourist ticket is sold only at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Centers at Shinjuku Station. The pass costs 7,400 Yen. (Update August 2017: it costs 8000 yen now). 

It consists of:

  • A round trip to the Mount Fuji Region by Odakyu Railways and Fujikyu/Keio highway bus.  All seats reserved. Prior reservation required. You need to pay an additional Express fare to take the Odakyu Limited Express train called the "Romancecar".
  • Unlimited use of buses, trains, boats, cable car and ropeway in the area around Hakone and the Fuji Five Lakes on three consecutive days.
  • Discounted admission to selected tourist attractions. 

The camera-shy Mount Fuji is often shrouded behind low clouds. If you could, choose to go Hakone or Kawaguchiko only on days with clear weather. A friend of mine got a clear view of Mount Fuji only on her third visit to Kawaguchiko and Hakone!

If going to Hakone only, consider the Hakone Free Pass instead.

3. Wi-fi in Tokyo

Very few places offer free Wi-Fi. Get a portable wi-fi device or buy Prepaid Data SIMs for use in my smartphone and use tethering to share with my travelling companions.  Many plans are available at this econnect website.

4.  Lastly, hotels in Tokyo.

I booked my hotels about 1.5 months before my travel dates and I found that only the more expensive rooms were available. I used Japanican to book my hotel rooms for this trip.
Rooms in Japanese hotels are very small by comparison to other countries and there are more smoking rooms than non-smoking rooms. Also, more single and twins rooms than doubles.

If I were to plan such a trip again, I would try to book as early as possible (with free cancellations at booking.com) to get the non-smoking rooms and also the rooms with large double beds.

Be careful about double beds. Some hotels market their super-single sized beds as small doubles! Booking.com specifies the room size as well as bed sizes, so you know what you are getting.

One of my main criteria for hotel is location. Preferably, within walking distance to transportation hubs like the Tokyo Station or Shinjuku Station (with airport trains, regional and local trains, buses) OR next to a subway/Metro station.

Alternatively, choose a hotel like the Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku where there are airport limousine bus services to Narita and Haneda Airport right outside the hotel.  I think this is a good way to travel for those who travels with young children or do not wish to drag suitcases into the crowded Tokyo or Shinjuku train stations to take the Narita Express train.

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Tokyo in Spring–First Sight of Cherry Blossoms at Yasukuni Shrine and Chidorigafuchi Park

2 April 2015

The cherry blossom or sakura season in Japan is about a week and it starts and ends earlier or later than forecasted, depending on the weather for the year.  During the expected sakura season, air tickets are not cheap and hotel room rates can go double or even triple. It would be a real shame if we didn’t get to enjoy the sakura in full bloom despite paying a higher price for our trip.  In the days leading up to our trip from April 2 to 10, I was watching the Cherry Blossom forecast 2015  website and hoping that our timings would be right.

In this trip, we would be staying 4 nights at APA Hotel Ginza Kyobashi. This would be followed by a day in Shinjuku before heading off for two nights in the Hakone and Kawaguchiko area (to see Mount Fuji and try the onsens) and back to Shinjuku again.

The day finally came and we flew into Narita Airport arriving around 5 PM. APA Hotel Ginza Kyobashi is about 10 to 15 minutes’ walk from Tokyo Station and it would make sense to take the Access Narita Bus than the Airport Express Train to Tokyo Station. The bus fare was 1000 Yen/person and we alighted at the Yaesu South Exit of Tokyo Station which is the nearest exit to the hotel.  Upon exiting the bus, I was sort of relieved to spot some trees with cherry blossoms on. We were probably near the end of the sakura season in Tokyo and probably have a day or two before all the flowers would have fallen.

It was easy to find the APA Hotel. Checking in took some time as the young man at the reception was struggling to find our booking in the system using our English Japanican confirmation slip and was too shy to ask for help. Finally another staff came to his rescue and we got our keys. We had a mini-shock when we saw our room. The room in APA Hotel Ginza was the smallest room that I ever stayed in. After taking away the space for the small bed pressed again two sides of the wall, dresser and bathroom area, what was left was about 2 square meters of standing space. And we paid quite a hefty sum for it. But this was the Ginza area, one of the most expensive real estate in Tokyo. And this was cherry blossom season, super peak season!

One of the best places to view cherry blossom in Tokyo at night is the Chidorigafuchi Park. Trees were lit up in the evenings. For 2015, the Illumination was from 27 March to 5 April, 18:30 to 22:00 hours. We took the subway from the Kyobashi Station to Kudanshita Station. Next to the Kudanshita Station is the Yasukuni Shrine, where another one thousand cherry trees were planted. During cherry blossom season, many food stands were set up to provide food for the visitors and that’s where we planned to get our dinner.

Yasukuni ShrineLarge torii gate at entrance to the park near the shrine. Food stalls and crowds celebrating the sakura season.


 We tried this salted and grilled Ayu river fish.


 Crowds enjoying a night out with food and drinks under the cherry trees.


 Had this okonomiyaki too and also takoyaki which was not very good.


Our dinner for the night was food from the stalls – grilled fish, takoyaki balls and okonomiyaki.

We were too late to enter the Yasukuni Shrine but we took a glimpse of the magnificent cherry trees within the Yasukuni Shrine through the opened gate where people were streaming out.

 Entrance of the Yasukuni Shrine.


 Glimpse of the magnificent cherry trees within the Yasukuni Shrine.


The Chidorigafuchi Park was just across the road and the crowds were making their way there as well. Actually Chidorigafuchi Park is the area around a moat of the Imperial Palace.  When I saw the beautifully illuminated cherry blossoms over the water, I kicked myself for not bringing my Nikon DSLR. Armed with only my Samsung smartphone camera, I tried to capture the magnificent night scenes as best as I could.


Here are some of the photos I shot:

 We were in luck. Cherry Blossoms at its peak at Chidorigafuchi Park.


 Full moon through the cherry blossoms.


 Even this little shoot has flowers


 Close up shot of the blooms.


 Crowds moving along slowly, taking photos, selfies and some even making heart shape patterns on benches using the fallen petals.


Boating area for boat rides on the moat during the day time. This was the last photo I took as the lights went out at precisely 10 PM.

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Cherry Blossoms Viewing at Ueno Park

3 April 2015 

The above shows a map of Ueno Park.

Ueno Park is another highly recommended Cherry Blossom viewing spot. It is one of Japan's most crowded, noisy and popular spots for cherry blossom parties (hanami). Ueno Park features more than 1000 trees along the street leading towards the National Museum and around Shinobazu Pond.

Prior to going into the park, we planned to find some breakfast along the Ameyoko shopping street which runs from the Okachimachi Station to Ueno Station.


 Ameyoko shopping street.


We were a wee bit early and the supposedly lively market was just awakening. We managed to grab some breakfast in a ramen noodle shop near Ueno Station and also visited a Uniqlo shop where we bought some thin rain jackets.

Ueno Park is huge and not too crowded at this time of day. It has plenty of cherry trees. Cherry blossoms come in many varieties as we discovered. Some blossoms are with 5 petals. Some even more. Colours varies too.

 Pink blossoms.


 Food stand in Ueno Park near the Shinobazu Pond selling grilled and salted Ayu river fish.


 We tried this (grilled crab sticks) instead of the grilled fish fish which we sampled before. The grilled crab sticks is not that good as it was made from processed crab sticks.


Shinobazu Pond is located within the park, with more cherry trees and offers boating as well.

20150403_104020White blossoms with 5 petals (Yoshino) at Ueno park near the Shinobazu Pond.


20150403_102251Purification trough outside the shrine near the pond.


20150403_102345

We learnt the process of symbolic cleansing at the purification trough near the pond. There is a particular sequence to it: 

1. Scoop water from the fountain or trough using the ladle. Holding the ladle with your right hand, pour some water onto your left hand and rinse.

2. Pass the ladle to your left hand, pour some water on your right hand and rinse.

3. Pass the ladle back to your right hand, and cup your left hand. Pour some water into your cupped left hand and use it to rinse your mouth or use the water to dab the lips.

Note: Do not touch the ladle with our lips/mouth directly.

4. Empty the remaining water from the ladle and place the ladle back.

There were a few shrines within the park. We were soon at the Torri gates at the Hanazonoinari Shrine.


 Torri gates at the Hanazonoinari Shrine.


 Early Spring Flower.


 At Hanazonoinari Shrine.


Then we came to a large area in Ueno Park where there are plenty of cherry trees and where hanami goers gathered. Some even sent advance party to reserve spaces under the tree for their family or company outings. It was interesting to see how the Japanese takes their hanami party very seriously.

 Ueno ParkHanami party under the cherry blossoms.


 Poor guy reserving space for his party and falling asleep while waiting.


 Playing with fallen petals. In a few days, there will be more petals on the floor.


After exploring Ueno Park in the morning, we took the train to Asakusa Temple.

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Asakusa Temple and Nakamise Street

3 April 2015

After cherry blossom viewing at Ueno Park in the morning, we took the subway from the Ueno Station to the Asakusa Station.

Entrance to the Nakamise Street was the iconic red lantern at Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) where groups were posing for photos beneath it.

It took a while to walk down the Nakamise Street and into the main temple complex as every now and then we would stop to buy food and stood at the side to finish it before continuing. It is considered rude to eat and walk with food in hand in Japan.


20150403_134130Crowded Nakamise Street selling souvenirs and food.


Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate)


 Real cherry blossoms on trees (left) vs Plastic Cherry Blossoms on the roofs of shops (right). Hozōmon in the background. The Hozōmon is the inner of two large entrance gates that ultimately leads to the Sensō-ji in Asakusa,


Beyond the Hozomon Gate stands the temple's main hall and a five storied pagoda.

 

 Another variety of cherry tree.


 Pink Cherry Blossoms.


O-waraji

 Asakusa

 Worshippers wafting incense over themselves.


 5 storied pagoda.


20150403_154357

 Man powered transport.

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