Tokyo in Spring–First Sight of Cherry Blossoms at Yasukuni Shrine and Chidorigafuchi Park

2 April 2015

The cherry blossom or sakura season in Japan is about a week and it starts and ends earlier or later than forecasted, depending on the weather for the year.  During the expected sakura season, air tickets are not cheap and hotel room rates can go double or even triple. It would be a real shame if we didn’t get to enjoy the sakura in full bloom despite paying a higher price for our trip.  In the days leading up to our trip from April 2 to 10, I was watching the Cherry Blossom forecast 2015  website and hoping that our timings would be right.

In this trip, we would be staying 4 nights at APA Hotel Ginza Kyobashi. This would be followed by a day in Shinjuku before heading off for two nights in the Hakone and Kawaguchiko area (to see Mount Fuji and try the onsens) and back to Shinjuku again.

The day finally came and we flew into Narita Airport arriving around 5 PM. APA Hotel Ginza Kyobashi is about 10 to 15 minutes’ walk from Tokyo Station and it would make sense to take the Access Narita Bus than the Airport Express Train to Tokyo Station. The bus fare was 1000 Yen/person and we alighted at the Yaesu South Exit of Tokyo Station which is the nearest exit to the hotel.  Upon exiting the bus, I was sort of relieved to spot some trees with cherry blossoms on. We were probably near the end of the sakura season in Tokyo and probably have a day or two before all the flowers would have fallen.

It was easy to find the APA Hotel. Checking in took some time as the young man at the reception was struggling to find our booking in the system using our English Japanican confirmation slip and was too shy to ask for help. Finally another staff came to his rescue and we got our keys. We had a mini-shock when we saw our room. The room in APA Hotel Ginza was the smallest room that I ever stayed in. After taking away the space for the small bed pressed again two sides of the wall, dresser and bathroom area, what was left was about 2 square meters of standing space. And we paid quite a hefty sum for it. But this was the Ginza area, one of the most expensive real estate in Tokyo. And this was cherry blossom season, super peak season!

One of the best places to view cherry blossom in Tokyo at night is the Chidorigafuchi Park. Trees were lit up in the evenings. For 2015, the Illumination was from 27 March to 5 April, 18:30 to 22:00 hours. We took the subway from the Kyobashi Station to Kudanshita Station. Next to the Kudanshita Station is the Yasukuni Shrine, where another one thousand cherry trees were planted. During cherry blossom season, many food stands were set up to provide food for the visitors and that’s where we planned to get our dinner.

Large torii gate at entrance to the park near the shrine. Food stalls and crowds celebrating the sakura season.

We tried this salted and grilled Ayu river fish.

Crowds enjoying a night out with food and drinks under the cherry trees.

Had this okonomiyaki too and also takoyaki which was not very good.

Our dinner for the night was food from the stalls – grilled fish, takoyaki balls and okonomiyaki.

We were too late to enter the Yasukuni Shrine but we took a glimpse of the magnificent cherry trees within the Yasukuni Shrine through the opened gate where people were streaming out.

Entrance of the Yasukuni Shrine.

Glimpse of the magnificent cherry trees within the Yasukuni Shrine.

The Chidorigafuchi Park was just across the road and the crowds were making their way there as well. Actually Chidorigafuchi Park is the area around a moat of the Imperial Palace.  When I saw the beautifully illuminated cherry blossoms over the water, I kicked myself for not bringing my Nikon DSLR. Armed with only my Samsung smartphone camera, I tried to capture the magnificent night scenes as best as I could.

Here are some of the photos I shot:

We were in luck. Cherry Blossoms at its peak at Chidorigafuchi Park.

Full moon through the cherry blossoms.

Even this little shoot has flowers

Close up shot of the blooms.

Crowds moving along slowly, taking photos, selfies and some even making heart shape patterns on benches using the fallen petals.

Boating area for boat rides on the moat during the day time. This was the last photo I took as the lights went out at precisely 10 PM.

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Cherry Blossoms Viewing at Ueno Park

3 April 2015 

The above shows a map of Ueno Park.

Ueno Park is another highly recommended Cherry Blossom viewing spot. It is one of Japan's most crowded, noisy and popular spots for cherry blossom parties (hanami). Ueno Park features more than 1000 trees along the street leading towards the National Museum and around Shinobazu Pond.

Prior to going into the park, we planned to find some breakfast along the Ameyoko shopping street which runs from the Okachimachi Station to Ueno Station.

Ameyoko shopping street.

We were a wee bit early and the supposedly lively market was just awakening. We managed to grab some breakfast in a ramen noodle shop near Ueno Station and also visited a Uniqlo shop where we bought some thin rain jackets.

Ueno Park is huge and not too crowded at this time of day. It has plenty of cherry trees. Cherry blossoms come in many varieties as we discovered. Some blossoms are with 5 petals. Some even more. Colours varies too.

Pink blossoms.

Food stand in Ueno Park near the Shinobazu Pond selling grilled and salted Ayu river fish.

We tried this (grilled crab sticks) instead of the grilled fish fish which we sampled before. The grilled crab sticks is not that good as it was made from processed crab sticks.

Shinobazu Pond is located within the park, with more cherry trees and offers boating as well.

White blossoms with 5 petals (Yoshino) at Ueno park near the Shinobazu Pond.

Purification trough outside the shrine near the pond.

We learnt the process of symbolic cleansing at the purification trough near the pond. There is a particular sequence to it: 

1. Scoop water from the fountain or trough using the ladle. Holding the ladle with your right hand, pour some water onto your left hand and rinse.

2. Pass the ladle to your left hand, pour some water on your right hand and rinse.

3. Pass the ladle back to your right hand, and cup your left hand. Pour some water into your cupped left hand and use it to rinse your mouth or use the water to dab the lips.

Note: Do not touch the ladle with our lips/mouth directly.

4. Empty the remaining water from the ladle and place the ladle back.

There were a few shrines within the park. We were soon at the Torri gates at the Hanazonoinari Shrine.

Torri gates at the Hanazonoinari Shrine.

Early Spring Flower.

At Hanazonoinari Shrine.

Then we came to a large area in Ueno Park where there are plenty of cherry trees and where hanami goers gathered. Some even sent advance party to reserve spaces under the tree for their family or company outings. It was interesting to see how the Japanese takes their hanami party very seriously.

Hanami party under the cherry blossoms.

Poor guy reserving space for his party and falling asleep while waiting.

Playing with fallen petals. In a few days, there will be more petals on the floor.

After exploring Ueno Park in the morning, we took the train to Asakusa Temple.

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Asakusa Temple and Nakamise Street

3 April 2015

After cherry blossom viewing at Ueno Park in the morning, we took the subway from the Ueno Station to the Asakusa Station.

Entrance to the Nakamise Street was the iconic red lantern at Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) where groups were posing for photos beneath it.

It took a while to walk down the Nakamise Street and into the main temple complex as every now and then we would stop to buy food and stood at the side to finish it before continuing. It is considered rude to eat and walk with food in hand in Japan.

Crowded Nakamise Street selling souvenirs and food.

Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate)

Real cherry blossoms on trees (left) vs Plastic Cherry Blossoms on the roofs of shops (right). Hozōmon in the background. The Hozōmon is the inner of two large entrance gates that ultimately leads to the Sensō-ji in Asakusa,

Beyond the Hozomon Gate stands the temple's main hall and a five storied pagoda.

 

Another variety of cherry tree.

Pink Cherry Blossoms.

Worshippers wafting incense over themselves.

5 storied pagoda.

Man powered transport.

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Evening Cherry Blossom Viewing at Sumida Park and Kobe Beef dinner at Gyu-an Restaurant in Ginza district

3 April 2015

Sumida Park and River is within walking distance from Asakusa Temple and is one  of the best 100 Sakura Spots in Japan. There are about 1000 Sakura planted along the riverside.

After visiting Asakusa Temple, we arrived at Sumida Park at about 4.30 PM and settled down at Tully Coffee for a well needed break. We sat outside, beneath a cherry tree and did some people watching.  We spotted people in wedding dresses, tourists in rented kimonos and of course, plenty of regular tourists and locals.

Some of the 1000 sakura trees planted at the riverside along Sumida River.

Iconic golden Asahi Beer HQ building across the Sumida River.

More Hanami Parties at Sumida River Park.

For dinner, we had planned to try the famous Kobe Beef at the GYU-AN restaurant located in Ginza area. Apparently, real Kobe beef from cattle bred in Kobe is not exported out of Japan.  So, Japan is the best place to try Kobe beef.

We took the subway to the Higashi Ginza Station and the restaurant was a short walk from there. We did not make any reservations and a table was only available at about 8 PM. We made a “on the spot” reservation for a table at 8 PM and killed some time strolling along the high class Ginza shopping belt.

At 8 PM sharp, we went back to the restaurant and was led to a low table and sat on the floor, Japanese traditional dining style. The menu included set dinners with grilled Kobe beef steak and also cheaper set dinners with Kobe beef served as shabu-shabu or sukiyaki.

We both ordered the 10,000 Yen steak set dinner which came with a few appetisers and the “melt in your mouth” grilled Kobe beef, plus Asahi beer to go with the beef.

The above were a prelude to what was to come.

Main course of the well-marbled Kobe beef.

The Kobe beef steak was served with dips of mustard, salt and pepper mix and BBQ Sauce. I think it is best to eat good quality beef without any dips to enjoy the full flavour of the meat and fats. After trying the Kobe beef, I think I would never enjoy the “normal” beef steak at home again. I am willing to forgo eating a few beef steaks at home, just to have a single Kobe beef steak again. Totally worth it.

Posh GInza shopping district at night.

Narrow building along GInza Street.

From Gyu-an restaurant, we strolled down Ginza Street again, towards our hotel. By now, the shops were closed but it did not matter since we were only doing window shopping.  

Expensive looking and beautiful wedding gown at a store in Ginza.

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