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Trip Overview – A week of summer hiking around Zermatt and 4 days exploring the Swiss Riviera from Montreux

The last time I was in Switzerland was in July 2015 where my family spent a week in Wengen, hiking in the mountains of the beautiful Bernese Oberland. This time round, only my eldest son was with my wife and I.

Having enjoyed our hiking in the Bernese Oberland, we had been looking forward to do more summer hiking in the beautiful Swiss Alps again. We were drawn to Zermatt, a car-free mountain resort with 400 kilometres of hiking trails around the iconic Matterhorn peak, probably Switzerland's most famous mountain.

Zermatt with the Matterhorn in the background.

Zermatt with the Matterhorn in the background.


There were many excellent Swiss chalets for weekly rental in summer. The rental typically starts with checking in on a Saturday afternoon and checking out on the next Saturday morning. I booked a 2-room chalet in Zermatt on the Interhome web site.

Our 2-room chalet in Zermatt with a bedroom with a double bed and a large sofa bed in the living room.

Our 2-room chalet in Zermatt with a bedroom with a double bed and a large sofa bed in the living room.

 

We also stayed 4 days in Montreux after a week in Zermatt. Montreux is located by the shores of Lake Geneva. This lake is also known as Lac Leman in French. Montreux would be our base to explore the Swiss Riviera which stretches from Lausanne to Montreux and encompasses the beautiful Lavaux vineyards perched on steep hills by the lake.

We had booked ourselves a 2-bedroom apartment located in the Tour de Ivoire, probably the tallest building within Montreux via Airbnb. It is conveniently located in the town centre, near the train station and within a short walk to the lakeside promenade.

View of Lake Geneva from our apartment in Montreux.

View of Lake Geneva from our apartment in Montreux.


This was the itinerary for our Switzerland vacation from 20 July to 1 August 2018.


Day 1 (20 July 2018) – Zurich Airport to Thun with stopover in Bern

We flew from home to Zurich Airport via Swissair, arriving in the early morning. After forwarding our main luggage to Zermatt, we took the train to Bern. In particular, we wanted to see the old medieval city of Bern, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Old city of Bern.

Old city of Bern.


The old city of Bern is compact and best explored on foot. We did a walking tour of Bern before heading to Thun where we spent the night at Hotel Freienhof. Thun is another beautiful medieval town worth visiting.

Trip report: Walking tour of Bern in 6 hours.

Trip report: An evening in Thun and dinner at the Beau Rivage Restaurant.


Day 2 (21 July 2018) – Morning in Thun and travel to Zermatt

Thun, a beautiful, picturesque medieval town located on the banks of the Aare River.

Thun, a beautiful, picturesque medieval town located on the banks of the Aare River.


The morning was spend exploring Thun. Our sightseeing included the uniquely beautiful Oberhofen Castle with its lakeside garden, the fairy tale medieval town of Thun and Thun Castle.

Oberhofen Castle and its lakeside garden

Oberhofen Castle

 

Thun Castle

Thun Castle.


From Thun, we travelled by train to Zermatt where we would stay for one week.

We will spend the next week in Zermatt to do some summer hiking. And for me, to shoot some photos of the legendary Matterhorn especially those with the mountain reflecting on the alpine lakes. Our activities in Zermatt was very much weather dependent.

Trip report: Oberhofen Castle and Thun Castle.


Day 3 (22 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (Hängebrückenweg and Gletschergartenweg)

Hinterdorfstrasse, the oldest part of the Zermatt with chalets dating back to the 15th century

Hinterdorfstrasse, the oldest part of the Zermatt with chalets dating back to the 15th century.


We spent the morning exploring the Hinterdorfstrasse, the oldest part of the Zermatt with chalets dating back to the 15th century.

We then took the cable car to Furi, the starting point of our hike on this day.

Hängebrückenweg (Furi Suspension Bridge Trail)

Furi Suspension Bridge.


From Furi, we hiked the easy Hängebrückenweg (Furi Suspension Bridge Trail) with extensions on part of the Gletschergartenweg (Glacier Garden Trail) trail. We then hiked from Furi down to Zermatt. A good place for lunch was at the Zum See Restaurant located on the trail between Furi and Zermatt.

Trip report: Morning walk through Zermatt and its Hinterdorfstrasse.

Trip report: Hiking the Hängebrückenweg and Gletschergartenweg from Furi and lunch at Restaurant Zum See.


Day 4 (23 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk)

The morning of our second day in Zermatt promised better weather compared to our first day. Since the weather forecasted for the next few days remains “mostly cloudy” or “intermittent clouds”, we decided to try our luck and do the 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk, which normally is best to do on a clear day.

Grindjisee - One of the 5 lakes along the 5-Seenweg.

Grindjisee - One of the 5 lakes along the 5-Seenweg.


The 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk is one of the best hikes in the mountains around Zermatt that promises stunning views of the snow-capped mountains and five mountain lakes, hence the name. There are opportunities to see and photograph the Matterhorn reflected on the surface of three of the lakes, depending on the weather, wind, position of clouds and, most of all, your luck.

Trip report:  The 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk.


Day 5 (24 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (Gornergrat to Riffelalp)

For the first time since we arrived at Zermatt, there was clear blue sky above the Matterhorn. We woke up early to witness the sun lighting up the Matterhorn at dawn.

 the sun lighting up the Matterhorn at dawn.

The sun lighting up the tip of the Matterhorn at dawn.


This was the day that we took the Gornergrat Bahn to the summit of Gornergrat at 3,089 m ASL.

views of the Matterhorn are from the summit of Gornergrat

The summit of Gornergrat.


Some of the best views of the Matterhorn are from the summit of Gornergrat and also along the hiking trails down from there.

After spending an hour at Gornergrat, we started on our hike down the mountain. The trails that we took were the Aussichtsweg (1.9 km distance) down from Gornergrat to Rotenboden at 2,815 m, followed by the Riffelseeweg (3 km distance) to Riffelberg at 2,582 m. One highlight of the Riffelseeweg trail is the chance to view the reflection of Matterhorn from the surface of Riffelsee.

Reflection of the Matterhorn from the surface of Riffelsee.

Reflection of the Matterhorn from the surface of Riffelsee.


At Riffelberg, we took the Mark Twain Weg (2.5 km distance) down to Riffelalp at 2,211 m. From there, there is an option to even continue hiking all the way down to Zermatt (1,608 m) depending on our energy level, weather, time of day and our sanity.

Trip report: Matterhorn at dawn.

Trip report: Visit to Gornergrat and Riffelsee

Trip report: Hiking from Gornergrat to Riffelsee, Riffelberg and Riffelalp.


Day 6 (25 July 2018) – Exploring Zermatt and hiking the AHV-weg trail

 

A park in Zermatt.

A park in Zermatt.


After doing several long hikes in the first few days of our stay in Zermatt, we spent a day of rest and relaxation within the town.

zermatt

Shopping street in Zermatt.


We spent the morning exploring the town and end the day with a relatively easy hike in the late afternoon on the AHV Weg trail.

The AHV Weg (Trail 4a) is a 2.2 km path that is flat and hence also known as the “Pension Path”, suitable for the elderly and also the young ones.

Zermatt, with the Matterhorn in the background

Zermatt, with the Matterhorn in the background.

 

This trail joins with the Riedweg trail where there are lookout points  and photo-spots with clear views of Zermatt, with the Matterhorn in the background.


Trip report: Exploring Zermatt - Triumph and tragedy surrounding the first ascent of the Matterhorn.

Trip report: Hiking the AHV Weg trail in Zermatt.


Day 7 (26 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (Matterhorn Glacier Trail)

We hiked the 6.5 km Matterhorn Glacier Trail. This is one of the best hikes to do at Zermatt on a clear day when the Matterhorn is clearly visible. The trail links Trockener Steg (2,939 m) and Schwarzsee (2,583 m), both the starting and ending points of some scenic high-altitude hiking trails on the mountains around Zermatt.

Matterhorn Glacier Trail

Rated as moderately difficult, this high altitude hike offers stunning views of snow-capped mountain peaks, a walk along the path left behind by a receding glacier and close up views of the Matterhorn.

Our hike on the Matterhorn Glacier Trail was from Trockener Steg to Schwarzsee.

Schwarzsee, the black lake with the chapel, “Maria zum Schnee” on the opposite shore.

Schwarzsee, the black lake with the chapel, “Maria zum Schnee” on the opposite shore.

 

Trip report: Hike the Matterhorn Glacier Trail from Trockener Steg to Schwarzsee.


Day 8 (27 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (Stellisee, Grindjisee and the Gourmetweg)

This was our last day for hiking in Zermatt.

Our original plan was to do the circular hike to the world’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge "Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge" in Randa. Since we were blessed with good weather and clear skies on this day, we changed our plan and did a shorter version of the 5-Seenweg or 5 Lakes Walk.

StelliseeStellisee - one of the lakes on the 5-Seenweg where we could see the reflection of Matterhorn from the surface.

 

Grindjisee – one of the lakes on the 5-Seenweg.

Grindjisee – one of the lakes on the 5-Seenweg.


We went back to Stellisee and Grindjisee to view the Matterhorn and did the Gourmetweg (Gourmet Path) trail, which leads past numerous mountain restaurants with global reputation. We had lunch at the Chez Vrony, a very highly rated restaurant along this trail.

Trip report: Back to Stellisee, Grindjisee and lunch at Chez Vrony along the Gourmetweg trail.


Day 9 (28 July 2018) – Travel to Montreux and afternoon in Montreux

We travelled by train from Zermatt to Montreux, arriving at Montreux at noon.

After settling down in our apartment in Montreux, we visited the Queen Experience Studio and spent some time relaxing by the beautiful flower-lined promenade in Montreux.

Bronze statue of Freddy Mercury at Montreux.

Bronze statue of Freddy Mercury at Montreux.


Promenade at Montreux.

Promenade at Montreux.


Trip report: Evening in Montreux.


Day 10 (29 July 2018) – Hiking in Lavaux Vineyard Terraces

Hiking in Lavaux

This was the day we visited the famed UNESCO-listed Lavaux vineyard terraces that stretch for about 30 km along the south-facing northern shores of Lake Geneva from the Chateau de Chillon in Montreux to the eastern outskirts of Lausanne in the Vaud region. This area offers some of the most beautiful scenery in Switzerland.

The hike on the wine terraces from Lutry to Cully was fascinating, with stunning views of the Lavaux vineyard terraces, Lake Geneva and villages in between.

It was good to start and end our visit with wine tasting at the Terres de Lavaux and Vinorama.

Trip report: An excursion to Lavaux Vineyard Terraces in summer.


Day 11 (30 July 2018) – Explore Montreux and Vevey

In the morning, we walked to Chateau de Chillon, a thousand year old historical monument that is the most-visited historic building in Switzerland.

Chateau de Chillon

Chateau de Chillon


The Chateau de Chillon is located in Veytaux, by the shores of Lake Geneva and about 4 km from Montreux. We walked to the castle along the beautiful flower-lined lakeside promenade from Montreux.


The “Fork in the Lake” at Vevey.

The “Fork in the Lake” at Vevey.

We made a trip to Vevey in the afternoon for some sightseeing and a swim in Lake Geneva. Like Montreux, Vevey is a lakeside town located on the shores of Lake Geneva with breath-taking views of the Alpine panorama.
Trip report: Walk along Montreux’s Flower-lined Promenade to Chateau de Chillon.

Trip report: Trip to Vevey from Montreux.

 

Day 12 (31 July 2018) – Visit Gstaad and Saanen from Montreux

Gstaad


On our last day in Montreux, we took a slow and relaxing day trip to Gstaad via the scenic GoldenPass train. After exploring Gstaad, we did an easy walk through the Swiss countryside to another village, Saanen, before returning by train to Montreux.

We end the day with a swim in Lake Geneva at Montreux.

Trip report: Day trip to Gstaad and Saanen from Montreux.


Day 13 (1 August 2018) – Montreux to Zurich Airport with stopover in Lucerne 

This was the last day of our stay in Switzerland. As we had a late flight home from Zurich Airport, we made a stopover at the beautiful lakeside city of Lucerne.

Chapel Bridge in Lucerne

Chapel Bridge in Lucerne.

 

We spent 6 hours exploring compact city on foot to see some of the sights such as the Old Town with its ornately painted buildings, Musegg wall and its towers, Chapel Bridge and other bridges, Lion Monument and Lake Lucerne.

Trip report: Walking Tour of Lucerne.


Trip Planning and Travel Tips

Many friends have asked me for itinerary, tips and help in planning similar trips to Switzerland or Zermatt. So I thought I would add a section on this in this post.


Flights, Accommodations and Meals

We booked our flights and hotel accommodation as early as possible to enjoy the best prices and also to secure “value for money” accommodations as they tend to be snapped up early.

Switzerland is a relatively expensive travel destination. The best way to enjoy Switzerland and not spend a fortune on hotels and meals is to rent a self-catering apartment or chalet. This is especially valid if travelling as a family.

Typical breakfast before our hike for the day.

Typical breakfast before our hike for the day.


At Zermatt and Montreux, there are supermarkets like Coop, Mignos and Denner where we could get ingredients for our meals. We also brought ingredients from home. Breakfast and dinners are usually prepared and taken in our apartments.

However, enjoying local food is an essential part of a travel experience. Where appropriate, we tried the local food and wine at some excellent restaurants during our trip.

Residence A apartment in Zermatt.

Residence A apartment in Zermatt.


At Zermatt, we booked the Residence A apartment via the reliable Interhome web site. At Montreux, we booked an apartment via Airbnb. Besides its location, my criteria for self-catering apartments are availability of fast wi-fi and a well equipped kitchen with dishwasher.

At Thun, I used Booking.com, to book a Family Room at the Hotel Freienhof with free cancellation. This hotel is one of the few that offered triple or family rooms.


Travelling around Switzerland

Zermatt is a car-free mountain village. Cars are permitted only as far as Täsch (5 km before Zermatt). From Täsch, one has to use the shuttle trains that depart every 20 minutes. The journey takes about 12 minutes, and ends at the Bahnhofplatz in Zermatt.

For us, the best and most efficient way to travel to Zermatt and around Switzerland is by the Swiss trains, that run like clockwork.

We bought the SBB Half Fare travelcard (cost 120 CHF and valid for one month). It entitled us to 50% discount for all the Swiss trains, public buses and also mountain railway and cable cars rides in Zermatt. This is an extremely good-value Swiss Rail Pass to buy.

We also downloaded the SBB mobile app to our mobile phones. The app offers simple and personalised timetable enquiries and we used it to purchase bus tickets at Montreux and some trains tickets online without having to look for bus ticket machines or queuing at the train ticket offices.

 

Hiking in Zermatt

For planning of the hikes around Zermatt, the Summer Panoramic Hiking Map is an excellent pocket guide with overviews of the most popular trails and provided information on estimated hiking timings and difficulty level.

Karte-Sommerpanorama_front_magnific

Summer Panoramic Hiking Map.


The hardcopy of the guide is available at almost all the train and cable car stations in Zermatt. It could also be viewed and downloaded from www.zermatt.ch website.

The guide also provides more detailed information of the trails. Based on that, we had pre-selected some popular easy and moderate hikes that we would do, depending on the weather forecasted for that day.

The best months for hikes in the high mountains are from July to October, when the snow has melted.

We checked the live webcams for the real-time weather conditions before heading up to the high mountains. The tickets for cable cars and/or mountain railways to the mountain peaks are not cheap and it would not make sense to go on a day with bad visibility or weather.

 

Safety and Protection from Weather

The weather in the mountains is unpredictable and can change rapidly. We dressed in layers and always bring along a water-proof outerwear even when the weather seems fine.

 Hiking at Zermatt

Good footwear is essential for hiking and hiking poles are optional for the easy trails but extremely useful for the moderate and more difficult trails.

Picnic at Stellisee

Bring sunscreen, hats and sun glasses when hiking in the mountains.  Also bring along with adequate supplies of food and water and there are opportunities for picnics at many places along the trail.

 

Toilets

One of the surprises I had while travelling in a supposedly highly developed country like Switzerland (and Europe) is that toilet facilities are not readily available at public places. For example, when we arrived in Bern, we had to look for the signage “WC” to locate the only public toilet at the train station. And it cost 1.5 CHF to get past the turnstile to use the urinal!

Travel Tips: Make use of the free and reasonably clean WC in the Swiss train before arriving at your destination to save some time and money.

Make use of the toilets at the restaurants you patronised whenever you can.

Most cable cars stations around Zermatt have public toilets. Use them before starting the hike. There are no public toilets along the trails.


Language Translation

Some parts of Switzerland are German speaking, some are French speaking and some are Italian speaking. English is widely used but there are situations when some foreign language translation may be needed. A good mobile app to download and use is Google Translate.

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Walking tour of Bern in 6 hours

20 July 2018

Old city of Bern viewed from Rosengarten

This was a day where I saw the sun rose above the horizon twice on the same day. Once from the plane high in the sky over Europe after a night flight from home and again when the plane was touching down at Zurich Airport. Amazing, isn’t it?

My Swissair flight landed as scheduled and a sense of excitement filled me as I collected our luggage and walked through the airport terminal. The last time I was in Switzerland was in July 2015 where my family spent a week in Wengen, hiking in beautiful Bernese Oberland. This time round, only my eldest son was with my wife and me.

The train station is located below the arrival hall. Once again, I felt awed that I am able to safely bring a specially designed, fully loaded luggage cart onto the escalators to travel between floors.

We would be travelling around Switzerland using the Swiss Federal Railways, also known as SBB. We made use of SBB’s luggage forwarding service to send two suitcases from Zurich Airport directly to Zermatt train station, to be collected the next day. That way, we don’t have to mess with lugging suitcases up and down the trains.

We would be staying overnight in Thun on our first day in Switzerland before heading up to Zermatt for a week of hiking. On the way to Thun by train, we would spend some time in Bern. In particular, we want to see the old medieval city of Bern, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We arrived at Bern train station slightly before 9 AM, after an 80 minutes direct train ride from Zurich Airport. Bern station has modern locker facilities for us to stow our small overnight luggage for up to 6 hours for a fee of 7 CHF. 

The old city of Bern is compact and best explored on foot. The Tourist Information Center is conveniently located within the train station and is the best place to obtain a detailed city map, marked with a self-guided walking tour route that we could follow. The map also showed where to find the 12 most interesting fountains or brunnens of Bern’s old city.

This was my second time in Bern. My first visit to Bern was in winter of 2008 with my family. We joined a round-Europe tour with Bern as one of the cities in the itinerary. I vaguely remember being ushered around swiftly in my group to view a couple of fountains and a large clock tower in the middle of the city. We also saw views of the city and river from a bridge and a bear pit where no bears were seen. That’s the problem with joining a group tour. I hardly remember where we went and what we saw.

This time round, armed with the city map, we could explore the city at our own pace. This is a much better way to enjoy a visit to the old town of Bern, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Just outside the train station, in the Bahnhofplatz, lays the Heiliggeistkirche or Church of the Holy Spirit, the starting point of our self-guided walking tour.

I was more intrigued by the modern looking glass roof of the tram and bus station amidst the old buildings along Spitalgasse, the main road leading eastwards into the old town.

Heiliggeistkirche or Church of the Holy Spirit at the Bahnhofplatz

Heiliggeistkirche or Church of the Holy Spirit at the Bahnhofplatz.

modern looking tram and bus station amidst the old buildings along Spitalgasse, the main road leading eastwards into the old town


Walking along the Spitalgasse, we came to the first of the many fountains or brunnens in Bern. The colourful Pfeiferbrunnen or Bagpiper fountain is located in the middle of the busy two-way street, with electric powered trams, city buses and cars going on both sides. The buses and cars were not the only hazards for tourists getting a closer look or photographing the fountain. There are large rectangular openings on the ground, with gushing water in the drains within. 

Pfeiferbrunnen or Bagpiper fountain in Bern

Most of these fountains are decorated with flowers in summer, had decorative water sprouts emitting water into a pool below. It is said that the water coming out of these public Swiss fountains are safe to drink. For those wanting to save some money in expensive Switzerland, it is a good opportunity to fill up the empty water bottles with free, cold, potable water.

Spitalgasse in Bern

Spitalgasse is pretty. It is lined with old buildings, decorated with colourful Swiss flags, and offered covered walkways in front of the best department stores, local boutiques, bakeries, souvenir stores and art galleries.

Cost of living is very high in Switzerland. So, it was strictly window shopping only, except maybe for the Swiss chocolates that looked so tempting.

Swiss chocolates in Bern

Along Bern's shopping street, Spitalgasse. Basements of the buildings along Bern’s shopping street are converted into shops, cafes and restaurants as well.

Basements of the buildings along Bern’s shopping street are converted into shops, cafes and restaurants as well.


After passing under an archway of a medieval tower called Kafigturm, we left Spitalgasse and continued along Marktgasse.

The Anna-Seiler-Brunnen and one of the medieval tower in Bern’s old city called the Kafigturm that used to be prison.  Electric trams and buses actually passes through the archway.

The Anna-Seiler-Brunnen and one of the medieval towers in Bern’s old city called the Kafigturm that used to be prison.  Electric trams and buses actually pass through the archway.


Clean drinkable water from a fountain in Bern

Clean and drinkable water from a fountain in Bern.


Marktgasse is similar to Spitalgasse but boast two beautiful fountains in the middle of the street.  The Anna-Seiler-Brunnen or Anna Seiler Fountain features a statue of a woman pouring water out from a pitcher. The Schutzenbrunnen or Musketeer Fountain has a statue of a man in armour holding a banner and a long sword and a small bear aiming a musket in front of his legs.

A prominent old tower with huge clock face stood at the end of this street. I remembered this clock tower as one of the key attractions of Bern.  Built in the early 13th century, the Zytglogge was Bern's first western city gate. It has served the city as guard tower, prison, clock tower, centre of urban life and civic memorial.


The Zytglogge’s astronomical calendar clock in Bern

The Zytglogge’s astronomical calendar clock. I stood and stared at it for quite some time and still could not figure out what astronomical information was presented.


The lady at the Tourist Information Center had told us to be at this tower a few minutes before the hour to watch the clock’s mechanism from the 16th century perform its unique spectacle. I find the performance by the rooster, jester and dancing bears of the oversized cuckoo clock not too exciting, but then, considering that this clock was built hundreds of years ago, it must be some piece of engineering worth the respect and awe.

We made a detour to see the Kornhaus, a magnificent building built in the eighteenth century that serves as the granary of Bern city.

Kornhaus, a magnificent building built in the eighteenth century that serves as the granary of Bern city.

A couple of street lights in front of the Kornhaus casting interesting shadows on the building.


We ventured onto the Kornhausbrucke and had our first view of the Aare River that engulfs the city. We actually saw people swimming, or rather floating and drifting, on the river far below us.

View from Kornhausbrucke.

View from Kornhausbrucke.


Kindlifresserbrunnen

Kindlifresserbrunnen – PG rated for its gruesomeness.


Next to the Kornhaus was another spectacular and photo-worthy fountain called the Kindlifresserbrunnen. It shows an ogre eating a child with its right hand and on its left arm are other children hanging on, and waiting to be eaten. Quite gruesome.

Interesting streetscene in Bern

Continuing eastward from the Zytglogge tower, we strolled along Kramgasse which was quite similar to the earlier shopping streets. More fountains could be seen on this street, in particular an attractive fountain called the Zähringerbrunnen.

Zähringerbrunnen fountain with Zytglogge in the background. Zähringerbrunnen was built in 1535 as a memorial to the founder of Bern, Berchtold von Zähringer.

Zähringerbrunnen fountain with Zytglogge in the background. Zähringerbrunnen was built in 1535 as a memorial to the founder of Bern, Berchtold von Zähringer.


A statue of a bear bearing a flag stood proudly on top of the fountain while a smaller bear hugged its right leg. The Zähringerbrunnen was built in 1535 as a memorial to the founder of Bern, Berchtold von Zähringer.  According to legend, Berchtold shot a bear on the Aare peninsula as he was searching for a site to build a city.

The bear is now a city icon. You cannot come to Bern and not see bears. The bear symbols now appear on flags, fountains, facades decoration of buildings and bears made out of gingerbread and chocolate.


Samson fighting a lion on top of Simsonbrunnen or Samson fountain along Kramgasse.

Samson fighting a lion on top of Simsonbrunnen or Samson fountain along Kramgasse.


We came to the house of Albert Einstein. Located at 49 Kramgasse, the world famous, Nobel Prize winning physicist rented, lived and wrote the Theory of Relativity here.

Side note: Einstein did not win the Nobel Prize for the Theory of Relativity. He won it for “his services to Theoretical Physics, and especially for his discovery of the law of the photoelectric effect".


house of Albert Einstein. Located at 49 Kramgasse, the world famous, Nobel Prize winning physicist rented, lived and wrote the Theory of Relativity hereA tour group gathered outside the house where Albert Einstein once lived in Bern.


A fee of 6 CHF is needed to see the inside of this house. If entrance fee had been lower, I may go up for a quick look. We gave it a miss and continued on our walking tour towards another fountain (Fountain of Justice) before arriving at the Nydeggbrücke, another bridge over the Aare River.

This was the bridge where, 10 years ago, we stood and took pictures of Bern in winter. The views of Bern, wrapped around the U shaped bend of the Aare River in summer from the Nydeggbrücke were just as awesome.

views of Bern, wrapped around the U shaped bend of the Aare River in summer from the Nydeggbrücke bridge

Views of Bern from the Nydeggbrücke bridge.

Views of Bern from the Nydeggbrücke bridge.


By now, the sun was high in the sky and it was getting quite warm. We crossed the bridge and turned left and walked up a sloping footpath towards the Rosengarten or Rose Garden. Along the way, we took a photo with a statue of Albert Einstein with city of Bern as the backdrop.

The terrace of Rosengarten offers excellent views of the city of Bern.

Rosengarten or Rose Garden in Bern.

Rosengarten or Rose Garden in Bern.

Rosengarten or Rose Garden in Bern.


The Restaurant Rosengarten is a good place to rest our feet, have coffee and a light lunch while enjoying the Swiss summer on the terrace overlooking the city.

outdoor cafe called the Restaurant Rosengarten


Recharged after our brunch, we headed back down towards the Nydeggbrücke and the BäRengraben or Bear Park. The grounds cover nearly 6,000 square meters and extend from the former BearPits down to the river’s edge.

Nice views of the city and river could also be seen from the terraces of the Bear Park.

Nice views of the city and river could also be seen from the terraces of the Bear Park.


Informative signage gave us the names and profiles of the resident bears. Finn, Björk, and their daughter Ursina have been living in the new park along the bank of Aare since 2009.

One of the resident bear at Bern's Bearpark


From the BearPark, we headed back across the bridge. But this time, we turned left into Junkerngasse, towards the tallest building in Bern. The Bern Münster or Cathedral of St. Vincent is also Switzerland's highest church tower.

Bern Münster Cathedral of St. Vincent

Bern Münster or Cathedral of St. Vincent.


On top of the main portal of the Bern cathedral are sculptures depicting the Last Judgment.

On top of the main portal of the cathedral are sculptures depicting the Last Judgement.


It is free to enter the cathedral. We took the opportunity to admire the interiors and colourful stained glass windows. Photography is forbidden inside. Those with plenty of energy could pay a small fee to climb the 312 steps up the tower for a bird’s eye view.

It is apt that the Moses Fountain or Mosesbrunnen is located in the Münsterplatz, the square where the cathedral is located.

Moses Fountain or Mosesbrunnen is located in the Münsterplatz

Statue of Moses with the 10 Commandments on top of the Mosesbrunnen. The statue dates from 1544.


Mosesbrunnen (Moses Fountain)

Mosesbrunnen or Moses Fountain.


By this time, I had run out of water in my water bottle as it was an unusually hot day in Bern. I filled up my water bottle with water emerging from pipes at the base of fountain and took a welcomed cold drink. Thank you Moses.

Continuing westwards from Munsterplatz, we bear left to get to Bundesterrasse offering good views of the Aare River once again.

Bundesterrasse offering good views of the Aare River

Bundesterrasse offering good views of the Aare River

Bundesterrasse leading to the Bundeshaus, with green dome in the background.


The Bundeshaus or Federal Palace was just round the corner.

Swiss Parliament House or Bundeshaus in Bern

Swiss Parliament House or Bundeshaus.


I have always thought that the capital of Switzerland is Geneva. I only learned that Bern is the capital while planning this trip.  The Bundeshaus houses the Swiss Parliament, the seat of the Swiss government.

It is interesting to note the facade bears the Latin words Curia Confoederationis Helveticae.

Confoederatio Helvetica (CH) stands for Swiss Confederation. Now I understand why the Swiss franc is denoted as CHF and the internet domain name for Switzerland is “.ch”.

The Bundesplatz square in front of the Swiss Parliament House has fountains of another kind. It is nice to see kids having fun so near to a place that is so serious.

The Bundesplatz square in front of the Swiss Parliament House has fountains of another kind. It is nice to see kids having fun so near to a place that is so serious.


From the Bundesplatz, we made our way back to the Kafigturm and backtrack along Spitalgasse towards the train station. There was plenty of time to do more window shopping plus get a taste of Swiss ice-cream from a roadside vendor before collecting our luggage at the train station and continuing on our train journey to Thun.

Thun is another beautiful medieval town worth visiting. More about our visit to Thun in the next post.

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