27 July 2018
On the last morning of our week-long stay in Zermatt, we were blessed with good weather and clear skies. We had done the 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk that leads past the lakes of the Stellisee, Grindjisee, Grünsee, Moosjisee and Leisee earlier. However, we did not manage to capture nice photos of the Matterhorn at Stellisee and Grindjisee as it was half shrouded by clouds that day. Hence, we decided to hike to both of these lakes again.
We decided against our original plan of doing the circular hike to the world’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge "Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge" in Randa since it involves a hike of about 7 km with an ascent of 650 m, followed by a descent of 650 m back to Randa. We felt that was too much work although it would be quite fun and thrilling to cross the 494 m bridge suspended about 86 m above the ground.
We planned to do a shorter version of the 5-Seenweg or 5 Lakes Walk by skipping Grünsee and Leisee. From Moosjisee, we would head towards the hamlet of Findeln via the Gourmetweg (Gourmet Path) trail, which leads past numerous mountain restaurants with global reputation. We could have lunch at one of these restaurants.
Once again, we took the underground funicular from Zermatt to Sunnegga, followed by the gondola to Blauherd. We saw the Matterhorn and Leisee, one of the lakes we visited on our Five Lakes Walk, from the gondola.
Matterhorn against a clear sky from Blauherd.
Leisee as viewed from gondola from Sunnegga to Blauherd.
From Blauherd to Stellisee
Once at Blauherd, we wasted no time and head straight to Stellisee via the now familiar footpath that runs parallel to the official 5-Seenweg trail.
Along the footpath from Blauherd to Stellisee.
Approaching Stellisee.
Fluffy white flowers that look like cotton wool near Stellisee.
Stellisee
Stellisee is one of the lakes where photographers gathered and lingered, hoping to snap photographs of Matterhorn reflected on the calm surface of the lake. Usually the best conditions were in early morning before the sun warms the ground, causing air movement. Clouds also tend to form around the east face of the Matterhorn later in the day.
Conditions were not the best when we arrived in the late morning but we managed to shoot some decent photos of the Matterhorn at Stellisee.
One of best photo-spots at Stellisee is near these rocks.
Matterhorn and its reflection on the surface of Stellisee.
On the 5-Seenweg from Stellisee to Grindjisee
After shooting lots of photos at Stellisee, we moved on to the next mountain lake, the Grindjisee. In our previous hike, we followed a signpost pointing to Grindjisee. This resulted in a slightly challenging hike down a steep switchback trail from Stellisee to Grindjisee.
This time, we followed the 5-Seenweg trail pointing towards Grünsee. This wide and gentle downhill trail was a much easier hike to Grindjisee. We could see the valley carved by the Findeln Glacier on our right.
Along the 5-Seenweg from Stellisee to Grindjisee (which also led to Grünsee).
Wild flowers on the side of the trail.
Findeln glacier valley with Grünsee is barely visible on the mountain slope across the valley. Grindjisee (lake with trees on its shore) could be seen on the right side of photo above.
Grindjisee was actually the next lake on the 5-Seenweg trail to Grünsee. Located on the right side of the trail, Grindjisee was not very visible from the trail as it was behind lush vegetation and trees.
Grindjisee
Grindjisee is a beautiful lake with crystal clear water surrounded by larch trees and lush vegetation. The shores of the Grindjisee are also home to rare flowers. From the photographer’s viewpoint, I prefer Grindjisee to Stellisee.
Approaching Grindjisee. The best photo spots are at the far end.
View of the Matterhorn and its reflection at Grindjisee.
While my wife and son had a picnic by the lake, I ventured up the mountainside to some excellent spots for photographing the landscape.
A stream flowing into the Grindjisee.
Wild flowers and the Matterhorn.
From Grindjisee to Findeln (shortcut)
From Grindjisee, the next lake on the 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk would be Grünsee. We had seen Grünsee in our previous hike. We had decided to skip this lake and go directly to Findeln.
We followed the 5-Seenweg from Grindjisee to Grünsee for a bit, then turn off into a side road following the yellow signage pointing to Gant and Findeln. This trail is a shortcut to Moosjisee, bypassing Grünsee.
On the 5–Seenweg from Grindjisee to Grünsee. The road to Gant, Moosjisee and Findeln is just ahead.
The trail led downwards towards Gant. We passed a cable car station at Gant that was not in operation.
After passing Gant, we crossed the Findelbach stream and hike down a gravel trail towards Moosjisee. At the bottom, the trail merged back into the 5-Seenweg to Moosjisee.
Heading towards Moosjisee. We could see Moosjisee at the bottom of the trail.
After passing by Moosjisee, we followed signs along the 5-Seenweg towards Findeln instead of Leisee and Sunnega.
The mountain restaurants at the hamlet of Findeln are world-famous, accessible by footpath along the Gourmetweg trail from Sunnegga. The 5-Seenweg soon merged with the Gourmetweg trail from Sunnegga down to Findeln.
It was a short and easy gradual downhill hike to the hamlet of Findeln.
Approaching Findeln. Chez Vrony is the mountain restaurant on the left in the picture above.
Chalets at Findeln.
Lunch at Chez Vrony
The mountain restaurant, Chez Vrony in Findeln, is a short walk down from Sunnegga along the Gourmetweg Trail.
We chose to dine at Chez Vrony, a very highly rated restaurant in Findeln. The restaurant was crowded and busy when we arrived at 2.30 PM.
Although we did not have a reservation, an elderly gentleman (who I believed was the owner) welcomed us warmly and led us to our table at a sunny terrace. In addition to hikers in summer, many visitors to Zermatt would make a trip to Sunnegga just to dine at this multiple-award-winning culinary venue.
View from terrace of Chez Vrony.
Outdoor seating at Chez Vrony.
We sat on wooden benches covered with lamb skin rugs, under the shade of large parasols, with a pot of Edelweiss as centrepiece and views of the mountainside and Matterhorn.
The menu was extensive and offered authentic, natural cuisine using fresh ingredients with traditional local dishes as well as international dishes like burgers.
My son and I had lamb cutlets with fig and potato puree while my wife ordered the veal burger. Our meals included an appetiser of yogurt with cheese, sliced duck and thinly sliced zucchini.
Beautifully plated dish of grilled lamb, caramelised fig and potato puree. The perfectly cooked lamb pieces are carved in the triangular shape of the Matterhorn.
Original Vrony Veal Burger.
I particularly enjoyed the perfectly cooked, pink and moist pieces of lamb cutlet, well balanced with sweet tasting red figs and potato puree. The veal burger with the meat patty cooked medium rare was excellent too.
After lunch, we ordered coffee and try out the sun loungers facing the Matterhorn. The afternoon was too warm for us to enjoy that.
Sun loungers at the Chez Vrony.
Although we sat outdoors, the interior of Chez Vrony was worth a visit.
The cosy and warmly decorated interiors for diners during winter season.
We were probably amongst the last to arrive for lunch and also the last to leave. It was certainly a memorable dining experience in Zermatt.
On the Gourmetweg from Findeln to Zermatt
From Chez Vrony, we continued along the Gourmetweg into Findeln, towards Zermatt.
Houses, barns and stores built of larch timber blackened by the sun at Findeln.
Zoomed in view of a marmot along the Gourmetweg.
Another mountain restaurant in Findeln, along the Gourmetweg.
Walking through the hamlet of Findeln. Many of the old houses are now holiday homes.
Leaving Findeln, we entered into a forest. After walking under the sun for almost the whole day, it was a welcomed change to walk through the shady and breezy forest overlooking the valley.
The Gourmetweg trail should lead gradually down to Riedweg and our apartment near Murini. However, there are a few other alternative steeper switchback trails that lead down to Zermatt.
A waterfall just above the tracks of the Gornergrat Bahn railway.
We took a zigzag path that leads down to Winklematten. We tried to spot wildlife as we hiked through the forest above Zermatt but none was spotted. We soon arrived at the AHV-Weg trail near the railway tracks of the Gornergrat Bahn. From there, it was a slow and easy walk back to Zermatt through Winklematten.
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