Hike the Matterhorn Glacier Trail from Trockener Steg to Schwarzsee

26 July 2018

The 6.5 km Matterhorn Glacier Trail is one of the best hikes to do at Zermatt on a clear day when the Matterhorn is clearly visible. Rated as moderately difficult, this high altitude hike offers stunning views of snow-capped mountain peaks, a walk along the path left behind by a receding glacier and close up views of the Matterhorn.  There may even be opportunity to view and photograph the mirror image of the Matterhorn reflected in a lake of the Theodul glacier.

The trail links Trockener Steg (2,939 m) and Schwarzsee (2,583 m), both the starting and ending points of some scenic high-altitude hiking trails on the mountains around Zermatt. Schwarzsee, in particular, is the starting point of the Hörnliweg Trail that leads to the Hörnlihütte mountain hut. The hut is like a “base camp” where mountaineers could stay overnight before departing before dawn to scale the Matterhorn’s summit.

Our hike on the Matterhorn Glacier Trail was from Trockener Steg to Schwarzsee, as we felt it would be less strenuous walking from higher elevation to lower, although there would be some ascends and descends during the route. We had the option to try a little of the Hörnliweg where the two trails meet near the Hirli ridge.

We set off from our apartment at about  8.30 AM. We saw the iconic mountain gleaming in the clear blue sky, although there was a wisp of cloud on its flat east face.

To take the cable car to Trockener Steg, we had to walk about 1.6 km across town to the Matterhorn Express cable car station located at the southern end of Zermatt. Since it was a fine day, we took the 2.2 km AHV-Weg Trail from Murini to Winklematten and then to the cable car station.

Matterhorn as seen on our way to the Matterhorn Express cable car station.

The station was crowded by the time we arrived. Many were making a trip to the popular Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. Tickets to Trockener Steg were not cheap but we enjoyed 50% discount using the Half Fare travel card.

The Matterhorn Express gondola took us from Zermatt to Trockener Steg Station via Furi and Schwarzsee in about 40 minutes. The segment of the ride from Schwarzsee to Trockener Steg was quite scenic and at times thrilling. We could see Gornergrat, Riffelberg and the trails we took on our previous hike from the gondola in addition to vistas of snow-capped mountain peaks and glaciers.

Large gondola going to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise from Trockener Steg.

Trockener Steg is the terminal station for the small 4-persons gondola. Those going to the popular Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (also known as Klein Matterhorn) at 3,883 m would transfer to a bigger gondola.

We started our hike from Trockener Steg. It is good to use the restrooms at cable car station before starting the hike. Sun-screen lotion and hats are recommended as the summer sun is scorching at high altitude and it is easy to get sun-burned although we don’t feel its heat. Needless to say, there were no restaurants or cafe along the high mountain trail, so we pack enough water and snacks (Swiss chocolates, Snickers bars and the special mountain-guide bread we bought from the Bäckerei Fuchs bakery store in Zermatt).

Snapping photos of the snow-capped mountain peaks and glaciers at Trockener Steg. Zermatt could be seen in the valley below.

Gorner Glacier and Monte Rosa viewed from Trockener Steg.

Weather conditions change rapidly in the mountains. It was clear sky in the morning when we left Zermatt but clouds covered the face and tip of the Matterhorn when we arrived at Trockener Steg.

The starting point of the Matterhorn Glacier Trail and path markings was not obvious near the station. We headed down towards the large lake and the tiny figures of other hikers who had started earlier.

The terrain was barren, grey, with gravel and rocks. In the distance were the towering mountains, with one in particular sticking out prominently. A triangular shape mountain with its sharp tip and eastern face partially covered by clouds was the Matterhorn

The trail is only opened during summer months of June to September when the snow had melted. We could still see snow on some rocks by the trail. Now and then, a gentle
breeze descended from the glacier to keep us cool.

Crossing a small bridge over a stream. You know you are on the right track when we see the painted Red and White rectangular markers.

Stream carrying melt-water from the glaciers into the valley.

We had sight of the imposing Matterhorn throughout the trail.

After crossing a small bridge, we did our first gradual ascend. The air was quite thin at nearly 3000 m above sea level, so we had to take it slow.

Playing with stones by the stream of glacier melt-water. Trockener Steg Station in the background.

Taking a look at the snow on the side of the trail.

Paw prints of a dog that also came on the hike with its owner. Dogs get to travel with their owners on public transport, including cable cars to the mountains.

Reddish bedrock peeping out from under the rubbles of grey stones and glacier scree.

At the top of the hill, it was stunning mountainscape all around. Glacier on the left of the trail, Matterhorn to our front and Zermatt in the valley below to our right.

Stunning scenery all around.

Glacier on the left of the trail.

Zermatt in the valley below.

Enjoying the fresh mountain air and sunshine.

Nice breezy spot for a rest.

Matterhorn is always the subject of many of our photos. 

Seeing the tip of the Matterhorn for the first time during our hike.

There were a few small lakes on this flat part of the trail. This was an opportunity to snap photos of mountains and Matterhorn reflected from the surface of one of these lakes left behind by the Theodul Glacier.

The water of the glacier lake was icy cold.

The mirror image of the Matterhorn in a lake of the Theodul glacier.

Many cairns or stacked stones along the trail.

Survival against all odds. I was pleasantly surprised to see wild yellow flowers in the scree left by the glacier in the background.

Hiking through a landscape of rock and scree sculpted by the former glacier. Painted Red and white rectangular markers along the hiking trail.

Since the Little Ice Age around 1850, the Furgg and Theodul Glaciers have retreated by more than three kilometres. Information panels along the trail provided historical and geological information.

One of the 23 information panels along the trail.

Landscape of rock and scree sculpted by the former glacier.

Looking at the Matterhorn that towers over the glacier valley.

As we got closer to the Matterhorn, we could see clear views of the north-eastern ridge (Hörnli Ridge) of the Matterhorn and the Hörnlihutte. The hut, situated at 3,260 m above sea level, is where mountaineers could stay overnight before embarking on the early morning climb to the summit at 4,478 m.

The Matterhorn towering over us.  This is the closest that we could ever get to the mountain.

Zoomed in photo of the Hörnlihütte mountain hut on the north-eastern ridge (Hörnli Ridge) of the Matterhorn.

We were awed by the sight of tiny figures in a single file, walking up a narrow ridge on the Hörnliweg Trail that leads to the Hörnlihütte.

We descended into the glacier valley and it was a slightly treacherous downhill scramble over loose rocks and scree.

Trail leading down into the glacier valley.

Showing off the effects of the sun on his arms after a few days of hiking.

Slightly treacherous downhill scramble over loose rocks and scree.

We added 3 stones to this pile of stones.

Once on the floor of the glacier valley, it was easy going. We could see the Matterhorn towering above us.

Soon we saw Hirli Ridge and sections of the Hörnliweg trail with open-grilled cantilevered metal walkways bolted to the sheer rock face several hundred metres above us. Many people were on this section of the Hörnliweg trail, including a mountain biker cycling on the metal walkway!

A walk along the glacier valley with melt-waters flowing on our left.

Matterhorn Glacier Trail – hiking along the foot of the towering Matterhorn.

Hörnliweg trail leading to Hörnlihütte and the Matterhorn features open-grilled metal walkways suspended over a vertical drop of several hundred metres.

A mountain biker on the open-grilled metal walkway.

Hirli Ridge.

We crossed a metal bridge before ascending again up to the Hirli Ridge. 

Exhausting climb to the top.

At Hirli, the Matterhorn Glacier Trail meets the Hörnliweg trail. My original plan was to hike some sections of the Hörnliweg trail before walking down to Schwarzsee.

Junction of the Matterhorn Glacier Trail and Hörnliweg trail.

Matterhorn, here I come. On the Hörnliweg trail.

After a short venture on the Hörnliweg trail, we came back to see a flock of mountain goats resting at the ski lift station at Hirli. 

Mountain goats resting at a ski lift station at Hirli that is not in operation during summer.

It was funny to see a goat sleeping with its head leaning on the wall. 

We lingered on a bench at Hirli to enjoy the panoramic views. Across the valley is the plateau where we hiked from Gornergrat down to Riffelberg and on to Riffelalp a few days ago.

Zoomed in view of Gornergrat across the Gorner Glacier valley.

Across the valley is the plateau where we hiked from Gornergrat down to Riffelberg and on to Riffelalp a few days ago.

Stunning views of glaciers and snow-capped mountains from Hirli.

We could also see the restaurant at Schwarzsee Paradise below and the trail that lead downwards from where we were seated.

The path to Schwarzsee was more difficult than it looked. Some parts of the switchback trail to Schwarzsee involve scrambling down steep rocky paths. Good footwear and steady nerves were essential.

Trail to Schwarzsee was steep and slightly challenging.

A difficult part of the trail where a slip could result in serious injury.

Approaching Schwarzsee Mountain Station and restaurant.

Those who had time and energy may want to make a small diversion to the Schwarzsee lake (German for "Black Lake"), which has a picturesque little chapel on the opposite shore. According to legend, two people from Zermatt had lost their way in the fog near the Theodul Pass. They pledged that if they were saved, they would build a chapel. And indeed, they did.

Schwarzsee, the black lake with the chapel, “Maria zum Schnee” on the opposite shore.

Schwarzsee chapel, “Maria zum Schnee”(“Our Lady of the Snows”).

From Schwarzsee, there are hiking trails leading down to Zermatt. We had enough of hiking for one day and took the cable car from Schwarzsee back to Zermatt.