The last time I was in Switzerland was in July 2015 where my family spent a week in Wengen, hiking in the mountains of the beautiful Bernese Oberland. This time round, only my eldest son was with my wife and I.
Having enjoyed our hiking in the Bernese Oberland, we had been looking forward to do more summer hiking in the beautiful Swiss Alps again. We were drawn to Zermatt, a car-free mountain resort with 400 kilometres of hiking trails around the iconic Matterhorn peak, probably Switzerland's most famous mountain.
Zermatt with the Matterhorn in the background.
There were many excellent Swiss chalets for weekly rental in summer. The rental typically starts with checking in on a Saturday afternoon and checking out on the next Saturday morning. I booked a 2-room chalet in Zermatt on the Interhome web site.
Our 2-room chalet in Zermatt with a bedroom with a double bed and a large sofa bed in the living room.
We also stayed 4 days in Montreux after a week in Zermatt. Montreux is located by the shores of Lake Geneva. This lake is also known as Lac Leman in French. Montreux would be our base to explore the Swiss Riviera which stretches from Lausanne to Montreux and encompasses the beautiful Lavaux vineyards perched on steep hills by the lake.
We had booked ourselves a 2-bedroom apartment located in the Tour de Ivoire, probably the tallest building within Montreux via Airbnb. It is conveniently located in the town centre, near the train station and within a short walk to the lakeside promenade.
View of Lake Geneva from our apartment in Montreux.
This was the itinerary for our Switzerland vacation from 20 July to 1 August 2018.
Day 1 (20 July 2018) – Zurich Airport to Thun with stopover in Bern
We flew from home to Zurich Airport via Swissair, arriving in the early morning. After forwarding our main luggage to Zermatt, we took the train to Bern. In particular, we wanted to see the old medieval city of Bern, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Old city of Bern.
The old city of Bern is compact and best explored on foot. We did a walking tour of Bern before heading to Thun where we spent the night at Hotel Freienhof. Thun is another beautiful medieval town worth visiting.
Trip report: Walking tour of Bern in 6 hours.
Trip report: An evening in Thun and dinner at the Beau Rivage Restaurant.
Day 2 (21 July 2018) – Morning in Thun and travel to Zermatt
Thun, a beautiful, picturesque medieval town located on the banks of the Aare River.
The morning was spend exploring Thun. Our sightseeing included the uniquely beautiful Oberhofen Castle with its lakeside garden, the fairy tale medieval town of Thun and Thun Castle.
Oberhofen Castle
Thun Castle.
From Thun, we travelled by train to Zermatt where we would stay for one week.
We will spend the next week in Zermatt to do some summer hiking. And for me, to shoot some photos of the legendary Matterhorn especially those with the mountain reflecting on the alpine lakes. Our activities in Zermatt was very much weather dependent.
Trip report: Oberhofen Castle and Thun Castle.
Day 3 (22 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (Hängebrückenweg and Gletschergartenweg)
Hinterdorfstrasse, the oldest part of the Zermatt with chalets dating back to the 15th century.
We spent the morning exploring the Hinterdorfstrasse, the oldest part of the Zermatt with chalets dating back to the 15th century.
We then took the cable car to Furi, the starting point of our hike on this day.
Furi Suspension Bridge.
From Furi, we hiked the easy Hängebrückenweg (Furi Suspension Bridge Trail) with extensions on part of the Gletschergartenweg (Glacier Garden Trail) trail. We then hiked from Furi down to Zermatt. A good place for lunch was at the Zum See Restaurant located on the trail between Furi and Zermatt.
Trip report: Morning walk through Zermatt and its Hinterdorfstrasse.
Trip report: Hiking the Hängebrückenweg and Gletschergartenweg from Furi and lunch at Restaurant Zum See.
Day 4 (23 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk)
The morning of our second day in Zermatt promised better weather compared to our first day. Since the weather forecasted for the next few days remains “mostly cloudy” or “intermittent clouds”, we decided to try our luck and do the 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk, which normally is best to do on a clear day.
Grindjisee - One of the 5 lakes along the 5-Seenweg.
The 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk is one of the best hikes in the mountains around Zermatt that promises stunning views of the snow-capped mountains and five mountain lakes, hence the name. There are opportunities to see and photograph the Matterhorn reflected on the surface of three of the lakes, depending on the weather, wind, position of clouds and, most of all, your luck.
Trip report: The 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk.
Day 5 (24 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (Gornergrat to Riffelalp)
For the first time since we arrived at Zermatt, there was clear blue sky above the Matterhorn. We woke up early to witness the sun lighting up the Matterhorn at dawn.
The sun lighting up the tip of the Matterhorn at dawn.
This was the day that we took the Gornergrat Bahn to the summit of Gornergrat at 3,089 m ASL.
The summit of Gornergrat.
After spending an hour at Gornergrat, we started on our hike down the mountain. The trails that we took were the Aussichtsweg (1.9 km distance) down from Gornergrat to Rotenboden at 2,815 m, followed by the Riffelseeweg (3 km distance) to Riffelberg at 2,582 m. One highlight of the Riffelseeweg trail is the chance to view the reflection of Matterhorn from the surface of Riffelsee.
Reflection of the Matterhorn from the surface of Riffelsee.
At Riffelberg, we took the Mark Twain Weg (2.5 km distance) down to Riffelalp at 2,211 m. From there, there is an option to even continue hiking all the way down to Zermatt (1,608 m) depending on our energy level, weather, time of day and our sanity.
Trip report: Matterhorn at dawn.
Trip report: Visit to Gornergrat and Riffelsee
Trip report: Hiking from Gornergrat to Riffelsee, Riffelberg and Riffelalp.
Day 6 (25 July 2018) – Exploring Zermatt and hiking the AHV-weg trail
A park in Zermatt.
After doing several long hikes in the first few days of our stay in Zermatt, we spent a day of rest and relaxation within the town.
Shopping street in Zermatt.
We spent the morning exploring the town and end the day with a relatively easy hike in the late afternoon on the AHV Weg trail.
The AHV Weg (Trail 4a) is a 2.2 km path that is flat and hence also known as the “Pension Path”, suitable for the elderly and also the young ones.
Zermatt, with the Matterhorn in the background.
This trail joins with the Riedweg trail where there are lookout points and photo-spots with clear views of Zermatt, with the Matterhorn in the background.
Trip report: Exploring Zermatt - Triumph and tragedy surrounding the first ascent of the Matterhorn.
Trip report: Hiking the AHV Weg trail in Zermatt.
Day 7 (26 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (Matterhorn Glacier Trail)
We hiked the 6.5 km Matterhorn Glacier Trail. This is one of the best hikes to do at Zermatt on a clear day when the Matterhorn is clearly visible. The trail links Trockener Steg (2,939 m) and Schwarzsee (2,583 m), both the starting and ending points of some scenic high-altitude hiking trails on the mountains around Zermatt.
Rated as moderately difficult, this high altitude hike offers stunning views of snow-capped mountain peaks, a walk along the path left behind by a receding glacier and close up views of the Matterhorn.
Our hike on the Matterhorn Glacier Trail was from Trockener Steg to Schwarzsee.
Schwarzsee, the black lake with the chapel, “Maria zum Schnee” on the opposite shore.
Trip report: Hike the Matterhorn Glacier Trail from Trockener Steg to Schwarzsee.
Day 8 (27 July 2018) – Hiking in Zermatt (Stellisee, Grindjisee and the Gourmetweg)
This was our last day for hiking in Zermatt.
Our original plan was to do the circular hike to the world’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge "Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge" in Randa. Since we were blessed with good weather and clear skies on this day, we changed our plan and did a shorter version of the 5-Seenweg or 5 Lakes Walk.
Grindjisee – one of the lakes on the 5-Seenweg.
We went back to Stellisee and Grindjisee to view the Matterhorn and did the Gourmetweg (Gourmet Path) trail, which leads past numerous mountain restaurants with global reputation. We had lunch at the Chez Vrony, a very highly rated restaurant along this trail.
Trip report: Back to Stellisee, Grindjisee and lunch at Chez Vrony along the Gourmetweg trail.
Day 9 (28 July 2018) – Travel to Montreux and afternoon in Montreux
We travelled by train from Zermatt to Montreux, arriving at Montreux at noon.
After settling down in our apartment in Montreux, we visited the Queen Experience Studio and spent some time relaxing by the beautiful flower-lined promenade in Montreux.
Bronze statue of Freddy Mercury at Montreux.
Promenade at Montreux.
Trip report: Evening in Montreux.
Day 10 (29 July 2018) – Hiking in Lavaux Vineyard Terraces
This was the day we visited the famed UNESCO-listed Lavaux vineyard terraces that stretch for about 30 km along the south-facing northern shores of Lake Geneva from the Chateau de Chillon in Montreux to the eastern outskirts of Lausanne in the Vaud region. This area offers some of the most beautiful scenery in Switzerland.
The hike on the wine terraces from Lutry to Cully was fascinating, with stunning views of the Lavaux vineyard terraces, Lake Geneva and villages in between.
It was good to start and end our visit with wine tasting at the Terres de Lavaux and Vinorama.
Trip report: An excursion to Lavaux Vineyard Terraces in summer.
Day 11 (30 July 2018) – Explore Montreux and Vevey
In the morning, we walked to Chateau de Chillon, a thousand year old historical monument that is the most-visited historic building in Switzerland.
Chateau de Chillon
The Chateau de Chillon is located in Veytaux, by the shores of Lake Geneva and about 4 km from Montreux. We walked to the castle along the beautiful flower-lined lakeside promenade from Montreux.
The “Fork in the Lake” at Vevey.
We made a trip to Vevey in the afternoon for some sightseeing and a swim in Lake Geneva. Like Montreux, Vevey is a lakeside town located on the shores of Lake Geneva with breath-taking views of the Alpine panorama.
Trip report: Walk along Montreux’s Flower-lined Promenade to Chateau de Chillon.
Trip report: Trip to Vevey from Montreux.
Day 12 (31 July 2018) – Visit Gstaad and Saanen from Montreux
On our last day in Montreux, we took a slow and relaxing day trip to Gstaad via the scenic GoldenPass train. After exploring Gstaad, we did an easy walk through the Swiss countryside to another village, Saanen, before returning by train to Montreux.
We end the day with a swim in Lake Geneva at Montreux.
Trip report: Day trip to Gstaad and Saanen from Montreux.
Day 13 (1 August 2018) – Montreux to Zurich Airport with stopover in Lucerne
This was the last day of our stay in Switzerland. As we had a late flight home from Zurich Airport, we made a stopover at the beautiful lakeside city of Lucerne.
Chapel Bridge in Lucerne.
We spent 6 hours exploring compact city on foot to see some of the sights such as the Old Town with its ornately painted buildings, Musegg wall and its towers, Chapel Bridge and other bridges, Lion Monument and Lake Lucerne.
Trip report: Walking Tour of Lucerne.
Trip Planning and Travel Tips
Many friends have asked me for itinerary, tips and help in planning similar trips to Switzerland or Zermatt. So I thought I would add a section on this in this post.
Flights, Accommodations and Meals
We booked our flights and hotel accommodation as early as possible to enjoy the best prices and also to secure “value for money” accommodations as they tend to be snapped up early.
Switzerland is a relatively expensive travel destination. The best way to enjoy Switzerland and not spend a fortune on hotels and meals is to rent a self-catering apartment or chalet. This is especially valid if travelling as a family.
Typical breakfast before our hike for the day.
At Zermatt and Montreux, there are supermarkets like Coop, Mignos and Denner where we could get ingredients for our meals. We also brought ingredients from home. Breakfast and dinners are usually prepared and taken in our apartments.
However, enjoying local food is an essential part of a travel experience. Where appropriate, we tried the local food and wine at some excellent restaurants during our trip.
Residence A apartment in Zermatt.
At Zermatt, we booked the Residence A apartment via the reliable Interhome web site. At Montreux, we booked an apartment via Airbnb. Besides its location, my criteria for self-catering apartments are availability of fast wi-fi and a well equipped kitchen with dishwasher.
At Thun, I used Booking.com, to book a Family Room at the Hotel Freienhof with free cancellation. This hotel is one of the few that offered triple or family rooms.
Travelling around Switzerland
Zermatt is a car-free mountain village. Cars are permitted only as far as Täsch (5 km before Zermatt). From Täsch, one has to use the shuttle trains that depart every 20 minutes. The journey takes about 12 minutes, and ends at the Bahnhofplatz in Zermatt.
For us, the best and most efficient way to travel to Zermatt and around Switzerland is by the Swiss trains, that run like clockwork.
We bought the SBB Half Fare travelcard (cost 120 CHF and valid for one month). It entitled us to 50% discount for all the Swiss trains, public buses and also mountain railway and cable cars rides in Zermatt. This is an extremely good-value Swiss Rail Pass to buy.
We also downloaded the SBB mobile app to our mobile phones. The app offers simple and personalised timetable enquiries and we used it to purchase bus tickets at Montreux and some trains tickets online without having to look for bus ticket machines or queuing at the train ticket offices.
Hiking in Zermatt
For planning of the hikes around Zermatt, the Summer Panoramic Hiking Map is an excellent pocket guide with overviews of the most popular trails and provided information on estimated hiking timings and difficulty level.
Summer Panoramic Hiking Map.
The hardcopy of the guide is available at almost all the train and cable car stations in Zermatt. It could also be viewed and downloaded from www.zermatt.ch website.
The guide also provides more detailed information of the trails. Based on that, we had pre-selected some popular easy and moderate hikes that we would do, depending on the weather forecasted for that day.
The best months for hikes in the high mountains are from July to October, when the snow has melted.
We checked the live webcams for the real-time weather conditions before heading up to the high mountains. The tickets for cable cars and/or mountain railways to the mountain peaks are not cheap and it would not make sense to go on a day with bad visibility or weather.
Safety and Protection from Weather
The weather in the mountains is unpredictable and can change rapidly. We dressed in layers and always bring along a water-proof outerwear even when the weather seems fine.
Good footwear is essential for hiking and hiking poles are optional for the easy trails but extremely useful for the moderate and more difficult trails.
Bring sunscreen, hats and sun glasses when hiking in the mountains. Also bring along with adequate supplies of food and water and there are opportunities for picnics at many places along the trail.
Toilets
One of the surprises I had while travelling in a supposedly highly developed country like Switzerland (and Europe) is that toilet facilities are not readily available at public places. For example, when we arrived in Bern, we had to look for the signage “WC” to locate the only public toilet at the train station. And it cost 1.5 CHF to get past the turnstile to use the urinal!
Travel Tips: Make use of the free and reasonably clean WC in the Swiss train before arriving at your destination to save some time and money.
Make use of the toilets at the restaurants you patronised whenever you can.
Most cable cars stations around Zermatt have public toilets. Use them before starting the hike. There are no public toilets along the trails.
Language Translation
Some parts of Switzerland are German speaking, some are French speaking and some are Italian speaking. English is widely used but there are situations when some foreign language translation may be needed. A good mobile app to download and use is Google Translate.
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