6 November 2024
After a visit to the volcanic peaks of Mount Aso in the morning, we continued along Route 111 to the southern part of the Aso caldera known as Minami-aso. Route 111 is also known as the Aso Panorama Line and it lives up to its name.
We stopped at the Minami-Aso Panorama Line Viewpoint located near the hairpin curve of the Route 111 connecting Minami-aso and the Aso Mountains. It offers magnificent views of Nango Valley and the southern outer rim of the Aso caldera.
An information board with a map gave a good overview of the relative location of Minami-aso within the giant Aso caldera that measures 25 kilometers north to south and 18 kilometers east to west. It also shows the location of numerous natural water sources (springs) and onsens in the village.
Located south of the Aso Five Peaks, Minami-aso is a prosperous farming and dairy community. We could see the checkerboard patterns of the rice fields in the village. The area’s volcanic soil is fertile and is also a great place for the raising the local breed of cattle that produces the Akaushi beef.
The area is also well known for its numerous natural springs. We have planned to visit the Shirakawa Spring, selected as one of the 100 finest waters in Japan.
Lunch at Kamado
The first place we went to in Minami-aso is the Kamado Restaurant. Located slightly off Route 325, it was a little difficult to find using Google Maps but with a little perseverance and common sense, we managed to locate a narrow gravel road leading to Kamado and another soba restaurant called Hoozuki Soba (closed on this day). We parked on the gravel patch just outside the restaurant.
Since it was past lunch hour at 12.50 PM when we arrived, we need not have to wait long to get a table. This restaurant has a nice interior and seems very popular. The menu was all in Japanese but had pictures of the food. They had the popular Akaushi beef bowl that we tried at the North Mountain Restaurant so we skipped that. We ordered the pork cutlet set and Akaushi beef steak set that came with a salad and fried tofu.
The food was delicious and the ambience of this restaurant was good. A nice start to our half-day in Minami-aso.
Shirakawa Spring or Shirakawa Suigen
Although I had pre-marked several small natural springs or water sources in the town, I figured that we only had time for the largest. We drove down Route 325 eastwards, following the directions given by Google Maps to Shirakawa Spring.
It was nice to drive through the rural areas of Japan. We could see the southern rim of the Aso caldera in front as we drove through the flat plain within the caldera.
Shirakawa Spring is located in the middle of a built-up area. There were ample free parking in the vicinity but all requires a short walk of few hundred meters through a shaded path to get to the actual entrance of the spring. We had to pay a small entrance fee of 100 yen per person that goes into maintenance of the area.
Shirakawa Spring Source is so famous that Ministry of Environment chose it as one of the 100 Best Natural Waters in Japan.
Visitors who brought bottles could collect water from the spring for drinking but we skipped that.
There is also a shrine at the spring called Yoshimi Shrine and is said to protect Shirakawa Suigen.
Takamori Station and One Piece Statue of Franky
Our next stop in Minami-aso is at the Takamori Train Station. This station is where the One Piece statue of Franky is located.
On April 14, 2016, Eiichiro Oda, a manga artist and creator of the series One Piece, donated ¥800,000,000 to help reconstruct his home city of Kumamoto after it was struck by two earthquakes. He also wrote supportive messages, and drew art for local products. In 2018, Kumamoto Prefecture awarded Mr. Oda the People’s Honor Award. After rebuilding Kumamoto, the governor Ikuo Kabashima announced that they would build statues of the Straw Hat Pirates to thank Eiichiro Oda for his help.
The Luffy Statue was installed at the Kumamoto Prefectural Promenade to symbolize Kumamoto’s post-disaster recovery. Subsequently, additional statues of the One Piece Pirates were installed all over Kumamoto Prefecture, including Franky in front of Takamori Station.
At the site of each statue, there are collectable figures for sale. These are sold on a first come first serve basis. Most of the statues of popular characters were already sold out, including Franky.
However, the second series of the figurines, in colour but not based on the statues, are available.
Takamori Station is also the place to ride some fancy trains including the One Piece Sunny-go Train. The Sunny-go is a special train decorated both inside and out with all things One Piece! The train was not in operation during our visit.
Overall, Takamori Station is quite peaceful and scenic. We could see several One Piece fans snapping photos of Franky.
While loitering around the station, snapping photos, we heard the sound of an approaching train. We waited in expectation but it turned out to be a regular train.
Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine
The last place we visited in Minami-aso before leaving the Aso Caldera for Iwato and Takachiho is Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine. It required a slight detour from our route to Iwato but I think it was worth a visit.
From Takamori, we drove about 10 minutes northwards on Route 265. We parked at an unpaved gravel parking space (location here) along Route 265 across from the shrine.
The shrine is located on a hill within a cypress forest and not visible from the highway. This shrine is famous for its steep stone steps that lead to the main pavilion at the top. The stairs are decorated with approximately 100 ancient-looking, moss covered stone lanterns on both sides. With tall cedars tree of the forest surrounding the path, the dimly lit path looked like a gateway to another world and is a good place for photos.
The journey to the shrine was a nice experience but the shrine itself is small and not so impressive. However, there are more to explore behind the shrine.
Walking to the left of the shrine, we could see a rock archway in the hill above. There is a concrete walking path that leads up there.
After a steep climb up, we arrived at the arch. This is called Ugetoiwa. It is said that if you go through the arch, all your goals and ambitions will come true. It is customary to touch the rock archway and then make a prayer or wish.
We saw some people praying and tossing a coin into the box so their wish would come true. Some would stick their coin onto a rock by the side of the archway.
Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine was not the only shrine we visited on this day. We would be staying at a ryokan in Iwato for one night before visiting the famous Takachiho Gorge the next day. At Iwato, there is another famous shrine called the Amano-iwato Shrine and another small shrine inside a cave called the Amano-yasukawara.
Next post: Our visit to the Amano-iwato Shrine and Amano-yasukawara.
Shopping street just outside the Amano-iwato Shrine. A torii gate marks the entrance to the shrine.
Statue of Ame-no-Tajikarao, the physically powerful god located next to the car park at Amano-iwato Shrine.
Amano-iwato Shrine 
Bridge crossing a stream leading to the Iwato River. 
Soaking in the serenity along the path to the cave-shrine.
The Amano-Yasukawara Shrine is located within the Gyoubogaya-Iwaya Cave.
Stacks of stones all round and the darkness of the cave made the place seemed so mystical. 
Stacks of stone by the Iwato River.
Entrance to Hana Iwato Ryokan. 
Lobby of the ryokan with the traditional kettle over a mocked-up hearth.
Corridor on the second floor. Our room was right at the end on the left.
Description of the courses in our kaiseki dinner in Japanese. 
This was laid out on the table when we were seated. Sweet potato gratin, sweet and spicy baked potatoes, dried daikon strips in vinegar as appetisers. 
Oku-hinata salmon carpaccio and vinegared vegetable salad.
One of the dishes is 'Nishime', a classic Japanese dish of simmered root vegetables. 
Takachiho tea soba that we cooked on the table-top stove.
Miyazaki branded pork that was steamed on the table. Came with dipping sauce.
Beef Stroganoff made with Takachiho beef and served with black-rice French bread.
Steamed black rice. The rice used is Hinohikari branded rice from Takachiho.
Okuhinata salmon miso soup.
Japanese style breakfast at Hana Iwato Ryokan.
Buckwheat flakes with milk and coffee.
Beautiful rural landscape with terraced farms.
Farmers harvesting and packing cabbages.
Photographing the photographer at work.
Morning mist and some smoke over the valley.
Tochimata terrace rice fields. 
Fields with the red and white Takachiho Amaterasu Railway Bridge in the back.