Our visit to the Amano-iwato Shrine and Amano-yasukawara

6 November 2024

After a day out exploring Mount Aso, we drove down south to Iwato to visit the famous Amano-iwato Shrine and Amano-yasukawara, a cave with a shrine inside.

Amano-yasukawara, a cave with a shrine inside.

We would also stay overnight at the Hana Iwato Ryokan, a small traditional Japanese inn located near to the shrine. Iwato is a good place to stay as we planned to drive to the gorgeous Takachiho Gorge the next morning. Takachiho Gorge is only 11 km (less than 30 minutes drive) away.

Amano-iwato Shrine consists of two shrines, the East Shrine and the West Shrine. There is a paid parking next to the Amano-iwato West Shrine which is most visited but we chose to park at a free parking lot next to our ryokan (location here). This is actually the public car park for the Amano-iwato East Shrine that is lesser known.     

From there, it was a short walk across a bridge and through a shopping street to get to the Amano-iwato West Shrine. It was slightly past 4 PM on a weekend and the shopping street was almost deserted at this time of day. 

Shopping street just outside the Amano-iwato Shrine. A torii gate marks the entrance to the shrine.

It is good to read up on the Ama-no-Iwato myth before visiting so as to better appreciate what we would be seeing.

What is the Ama-no-Iwato myth?

According to Japanese mythology, Amaterasu-Omikami is the goddess of the sun whose name means ''The Great Divinity That Illuminates Heaven.”

In the myth, Amaterasu was overcome with guilt after her younger brother Susano-o, the Storm God, accidentally killed a weaver with a practical joke. She sealed herself in the cave with a Heavenly Rock, plunging the world into darkness which is not a good thing.

The gods gathered to devise a plan to lure Amaterasu out of the cave. They created a party, gifts, and a ritual involving a dance and laughter. The gods decorated an evergreen tree with beads and hung a mirror in its center. Amaterasu became curious and opened the cave door to peek. A powerful god pulled her out of the cave and shut the Heavenly Rock behind her. There is light again!

Statue of Ame-no-Tajikarao

On the left side of the entrance, there is a large statue of Ame-no-Tajikarao, the physically powerful god who pulled Amaterasu out of the Amano-Iwato Cave when she peeked out to have a look. He also threw away the Heavenly Rock at the cave entrance in order to prevent Amaterasu-Omikami from hiding in the cave again.

Statue of Ame-no-Tajikarao, the physically powerful god located next to the car park at Amano-iwato Shrine.

Amano-iwato Shrine

The Amano-iwato Shrine is dedicated to the Amaterasu. It is located near the Amano-iwato cave where Amaterasu hid. The west shrine sits on one side of Iwato River, with the cave perched high up on a cliff on the other side of the river. The cave is not accessible for casual visitors.

Amano-iwato Shrine

Like the shopping street outside, the grounds at the shrine was quiet and peaceful when we visited. The tour buses with the hoards of visitors usually come earlier, coupled with their visit to Takachiho Gorge.

We did not enter the shrine. Instead we continued along the path, past several cafés and souvenir shops, to Amano-Yasukawara. A path leads down into a lush forest towards the Iwato River.

Amano-Yasukawara

Amano-Yasukawara is a cave located along the Iwato River. It is about a 10-minute walk from the Amano-iwato Shrine.  This is said to be the cave where the gods and goddesses met to discuss their strategy of luring Amaterasu out of hiding.

Midway to the Amano-Yasukawara, there is an arched bridge stretching over the Iwato River. This is a good spot to soak in the atmosphere of the place.

Bridge crossing a stream leading to the Iwato River.

Soaking in the serenity along the path to the cave-shrine.

We arrived at an enormous cave called the Gyoubogaya-Iwaya Cave. It is about 40 meters wide and 30 meters deep. It is said to be the spot where eight million gods gathered to discuss their strategy of luring Amaterasu out of hiding.

Note: This is not the cave that Amaterasu hid! The cave is actually behind the Amano-Iwato Shrine and not accessible to normal visitors.

A shimenawa (sacred rope) is hung across the entrance to the cave. These ropes are made from dried straw fibers and are used to indicate the border of a sacred space. The Amano-Yasukawara Shrine is located within the Gyoubogaya-Iwaya Cave.

The Amano-Yasukawara Shrine is located within the Gyoubogaya-Iwaya Cave.

It is said that if you make a wish while stacking rocks at Amano-Yasukawara, your wish will come true. Hence, there were many stacks of stones all around. 

Stacks of stones all round and the darkness of the cave made the place seemed so mystical.     

Stacks of stone by the Iwato River.

It was a nice place to visit late in the day when it was less crowded. We managed to shoot some photos at the cave when all the other people had left.

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Our stay at Hana Iwato Ryokan and viewing the Tochimata Rice Terraces

6 and 7 November 2024

After visiting the Amano-iwato Shrine and Amano-yasukawara, we checked into Hana Iwato Ryokan, a small traditional Japanese inn located near to the shrines. 

I chose to stay overnight at Iwato mainly because we had planned to visit the famous Takachiho Gorge, located about 11 km away. Accommodations near the gorge are scarce and extremely overpriced. A fancy modern hotel room without meals at Takachiho cost about the same as a stay at Hana Iwato Ryokan with half board included.

We had parked our car at the free public car park outside the Amanoiwato East Main Shrine. From there, it was only 50 metres walk to the entrance of the ryokan. The ryokan was not very conspicuous from the road.

Entrance to Hana Iwato Ryokan.

Once inside, we were welcomed by the proprietress who speaks good English. She said the ryokan has their own private parking behind but it was alright for me to leave our car at the public car park at the shrine if we are leaving early in the morning, before the tour buses arrive.

Lobby of the ryokan with the traditional kettle over a mocked-up hearth.

Check in process was fast. She explained the facilities to us and also confirm the timings for our meals.

We were assigned a corner room on the second floor. Our room faces the road but there was little or no traffic noise in the evening. The Japanese style room came with Western style beds, an en-suite toilet and shower over a bath tub.

Although the ryokan has private hot baths, the water is heated tap water, not natural hot spring water. We decided to just use the hot shower in our room.

Corridor on the second floor. Our room was right at the end on the left.

“Hana” means flowers in Japanese and the ryokan is decorated with fresh flowers all over.

Dinner was served in a large dining hall. Beside us, we saw two other couples at the dining hall. Since this is a small ryokan, we had good personalised service.

A menu in Japanese describing the multi-course Kaiseki dinner was placed on the table. The proprietress gave us another menu printed in English since she knew we are not local. The English menu was simple and not detailed. I used Google Translate to get better understanding of what was served from the Japanese menu.

Description of the courses in our kaiseki dinner in Japanese.

The ryokan serves local Takachiho cuisine using ingredients that are locally produced and locally sourced. 

This was laid out on the table when we were seated. Sweet potato gratin, sweet and spicy baked potatoes, dried daikon strips in vinegar as appetisers.

Oku-hinata salmon carpaccio and vinegared vegetable salad.

One of the dishes is 'Nishime', a classic Japanese dish of simmered root vegetables. 

Takachiho tea soba that we cooked on the table-top stove.

Miyazaki branded pork that was steamed on the table. Came with dipping sauce.

Beef Stroganoff made with Takachiho beef and served with black-rice French bread.

Steamed black rice. The rice used is Hinohikari branded rice from Takachiho.Okuhinata salmon miso soup.

There is also simple fruit dessert at the end of the courses.

Overall the kaiseki dinner was not as elaborate as those we had in the more fancy ryokans at Yufuin and Kurokawa Onsen but was still delicious and value for money.

After a good night sleep, we were served a homemade Japanese-style breakfast that uses as few pre-made products as possible.  Once again, a Japanese menu was provided and I used Google Translate to decipher it. In essence, the breakfast is rice, rice porridge, salad, miso soup and side dishes that included ingredients such as grilled yamame trout coated with honey, raw eggs (which we left untouched), purple flower beans, seaweed with shiitake mushrooms, local tofu, boiled butterbur and stir fired melon with miso.

Japanese style breakfast at Hana Iwato Ryokan.

Buckwheat flakes with milk and coffee.

Overall, I was glad we stayed at Iwato and especially at the Hana Iwato Ryokan.

From Iwato, we drove to Takachiho via Highway 7. This highway offers scenic views of farmlands and rice fields on our left side. This is one bonus of staying at Iwato instead of Takachiho.

We made a stop at a viewpoint to snap photos of the landscape with the Tochimata rice terraces, farms and mountains beyond.

    Beautiful rural landscape with terraced farms.

Farmers harvesting and packing cabbages.

Photographing the photographer at work.

Morning mist and some smoke over the valley.

Tochimata terrace rice fields.

 

We also saw a railway bridge with a metal grid-like structure. This is the bridge where the Takachiho Amaterasu Railway sightseeing train would make a stop for passengers to view Takachiho’s beautiful terraced rice fields and also the gorge from above. This bridge is also Japan’s highest railway bridge, 105 meters above the ground.

Fields with the red and white Takachiho Amaterasu Railway Bridge in the back.

I enjoyed snapping photos of rural Japan along my road trip. I think staying at Iwato was a good decision, giving me the opportunity to drive this scenic route to Takachiho.

I looked forward to more scenic views and photo opportunities at the gorgeous Takachiho Gorge, our actual destination.

Next post: Morning at Takachiho Gorge.

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Morning at Takachiho Gorge

7 November 2024

Once I saw photos of Takachiho Gorge (高千穂峡), I knew that I must include this place into my Kyushu road trip itinerary. The gorge has one of the most spectacular waterfalls I have seen and the photographer in me dream of shooting similar photos to those I had seen.

Manai Falls cascading into Takachiho Gorge.

Takachiho Gorge was formed over 100,000 years ago after eruptions from nearby volcano Mount Aso. The sudden cooling of the pyroclastic flow led to dramatic columnar formations and sheer cliffs that rise above the Gokase River. The gorge’s 80 to 100 meter-high basalt cliffs line a chasm that just 3 meters wide at its narrowest point. A 17-meter waterfall cascades into the river at the end of the gorge. Coupled with lush greenery over the emerald green river, the scenery is truly magical and must see to believe. The waterfall named Manai Falls is one of Japan’s top 100 waterfalls.

The best time for photos at the gorge is in the late morning and some of the best views are from a rental boat in the gorge itself. Hence, I booked a stay near the gorge and also pre-booked a boat rental at an online site prior to our trip. The tickets for the boat rental are sold only 14 days in advance so book early to avoid disappointment.

THEY GET SOLD OUT FAST!

The boat rental is for 30 minutes and we had to row the boat ourselves. The cost per rental is not cheap at 5,100 yen per boat that can take up to 3 persons. I figured that this would probably be the once and only opportunity for me to visit this place, so why not?

I managed to book a boat rental for 10.30 AM, which was perfect for my plan. I read that some tickets may be available for sale on the day itself but there would usually be a long queue.

Getting to Takachiho Gorge

We stayed overnight at Hana Iwato Ryokan located in Iwato and not in Takachiho area as the hotels near to the gorge are pricey. It took us only 25 minutes to get to Takachiho from Iwato. On the way, we stopped along the scenic highway 7 to shoot some photos of the Tochimata Rice Terraces. 

Beautiful scenery of rice fields and farms on our way to Takachiho from Iwato.

There are three car parks around the gorge. The Oshioi Parking Lot nearest the boat rental area (location here) is the most expensive at 500 yen/day and they usually get filled first. The next car park, Araragi Parking Lot, is about 30 minutes walk away (location here) and cost 300 yen/day. There is also a free car park, Ohashi Parking Lot, that is up on the top of the gorge (location here) that may be suitable for those who don’t mind a bit of up hill walk back to their car.

We arrived at the gorge at about 9.15 AM and were directed by road marshals to the Oshioi Parking Lot. This parking lot is located at the south end of the gorge, where the boat rental station is located.

We found out that the boat ride had been cancelled for the day due to high water level. Actually we knew a day in advance that this would probably happen from the ryokan’s proprietress but we had some hope that the situation may change.

Sign at the boat rental station dashing all hopes.

Boats idling on the calm waters.

Hopes dashed, we did the next best thing which was to view and photograph the gorge from the paved path that runs along the edge of the gorge.

We went to the bridge where the best view of Manai Falls could be seen from above. Here, Manai Falls forms a nice arch cascading into the blue-green river that cuts through the canyon.

The bridge is narrow and we had to be wary of cars coming through. In fact, we drove over this bridge on our way to the car park.

Manai Falls as viewed from the bridge.

We stopped by the Onokoro Pond that had beautiful koi and also the rare sturgeon. There are a few nice Ogon, Tancho and Showa amongst the grey Chagoi.

Admiring the koi in Onokoro Pond.

Led by a chagoi, the group of Koi swam towards me, hoping for food.

This sturgeon is over a meter in length.

There is also a miniature shrine on a small island in the middle of this crystal clear pond. Once a year in spring for the Takachiho Shrine Festival, an omikoshi (portable shrine) is purified by circling the pond three times.

Signboard explaining the shrine in the middle of the pond.

The small shrine on a small island in the middle of Onokoro Pond.

There is a viewing point along the walkway by the edge of the gorge where we could see the water from the falls cascading straight down to the river.

The little viewing deck on the pathway next to the gorge.

This wooden observation deck is another great place to shoot photos of Manai Falls and interesting rock formations.

Mandatory selfies at Takachiho Gorge.

Shooting photos from the observation deck.

Many photos at Takachiho Gorge featured Manai Falls shot at this angle.

This is the narrow bridge where I took the first few photos at Takachiho Gorge.

Taking many photos along the walkway next to the gorge.

We had a very relaxing walk along the edge of the gorge, snapping many photos. This included the waterfall, river, volcanic rock formations.

Clear blue sky over the gorge.

The morning light was not too harsh, allowing some good landscape photos to be taken.

Columnar basalt rocks form when lava cools and contracts, causing the ground to crack into geometric columns.

I saw an opportunity to shoot three bridges, juxtaposed nicely in a single picture. 

Three bridges in one photo at Takachiho Gorge.

Two bridges with arch support. The stone Shinbashi Bridge vs the metal Takachiho Ohashi Bridge.

We ended our walk at the stone arched Shinbashi Bridge seen above. This narrow bridge is next to the Araragi Parking Lot and we could see cars waiting to cross this bridge to get to the car park.

From this narrow bridge, we could see the river flowing rapidly along the narrow gorge. We had to keep an eye out for cars crossing this bridge while we took photos from the bridge.

View of the rapids at the northern end of the gorge.

If we crossed the bridge and continued along the path, it would lead uphill to the Takachiho Shrine. We had taken about an hour to get to this point, including many stops for photos.

We walked back the way we came from. This provided opportunities to enjoy the gorge again and more photos!

Another photo from the observation deck. This time, the leaves were highlighted in bright colours by the sunlight.

We ended our visit to Takachiho Gorge with lunch at the Nagomi restaurant located in Takachiho town. This restaurant serves the finest Takachiho beef raised in the great outdoors.

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