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Drive from Niseko to Hakodate with lunch at Harvester Yakumo

27 May 2026

Hakodate is a vibrant port city in southern Hokkaido known for its fresh seafood, 19th-century Western-style architecture, and spectacular night views. Located in the South-western part of Hokkaido, we did not have time to visit this city in our previous road trip in Hokkaido back in 2024. This time, we planned to spend 2 days in this city to explore its numerous attractions.

Getting to Hakodate from Niseko

After an overnight stay in Niseko and great breakfast at the Ki Niseko hotel, we did a 174 km drive from Niseko to Hakodate. Unlike the previous day, Mount Yotei was shrouded by low clouds in the morning.

Although there is an expressway E5 that could be slightly faster, I chose to travel all the way via National Route 5 which is more scenic and also toll-free. The journey was expected to take about 3 hours.

I planned a stop for lunch in Yakumo, a small coastal town along National Route 5. Harvester Yakumo is the perfect spot for a lunch break after a 1.5 hours drive from Niseko.

Harvester Yakumo

Harvester Yakumo is a Western-style restaurant located on a hill overlooking Funka Bay. There is a sign outside the restaurant that informed us that Yakumo is the birthplace of Japanese Herb Chicken, which is raised on a healthy diet of herbs, giving its meat an unbeatable delicate flavor.

Harvester Yakumo looks like a typical western farmhouse built with red bricks and dormer windows at the roof.

Ample free parking in front of the restaurant.

Upon stepping through the front door, a sign further explained the linkage of this restaurant to a certain Colonel Sanders, the founder of Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC).

Beside fried chicken, the menu also includes dishes such as pastas and freshly made pizzas that are baked in a stone oven.

We must try the fried chicken at this place. They actually tasted better than KFC, in my opinion.

We also ordered the Yakumo Beef and Pork Hamburg steak.

There are benches on the terraces with views of the farms below and Funka Bay in the distance. We spotted some crows, so we sat indoors to eat in peace.

Empty benches on the terraces.

View from the terrace of Harvester Yakumo.

Overall, we enjoyed our lunch at this restaurant with good food, good view and relaxing vibes.

Funkawan Bay Panorama Park

Right across the road from the restaurant is the Funkawan Bay Panorama Park. We made a quick stop to check out the ice-cream shop and souvenir store. There are also nice views of the bay from this place.

On to Hakodate’s

Goryokaku Fort

From Yakumo, it took us another 1.5 hours to get to the Goryokaku Fort. The fort was the first attraction we visited in Hakodate since it is located in the northern part of the city. We had just enough time to visit this attraction before checking into the JR Inn Hakodate, our accommodation in Hakodate.

Along the way, we drove past Onuma Quasi-National Park, a popular Hakodate attraction. This place features a forested park with hiking & cycling trails, campsites, a dormant volcano & boating on several lakes but we chose to give it a miss due to time constraint.

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Exploring Hakodate - Goryokaku Fort and Tower

27 May 2026

Hakodate is a vibrant port city in southern Hokkaido known for its fresh seafood, 19th-century Western-style architecture, and spectacular night views.

One of the major attractions in the city of Hakodate is Goryokaku Fort and Tower. The fort is probably the most striking and also the most historically important landmark in Hakodate so I added it to my list of “must-see” in this city.

Appreciating the star-shaped, Western-style fort from the observation deck in Goryokaku Tower.

Goryokaku Fort is a massive, star-shaped, Western-style citadel, which was built in the last years of the Edo Period (1603-1868) for the defense of Hakodate against the imperialist threat posed by the Western powers. It has now been repurposed into a park. A tower called the Goryokaku Tower had been built next to the fort to allow visitors to see the full five-pointed design from above.

Goryokaku Tower

We went to Goryokaku Tower first as it was just next to where we parked our car, a car park next to the Hakodate Performing Arts Center. From there, it was a short walk to the tower.

Admission to the tower’s observation deck cost 1,200 JPY per adult. After buying the tickets, we were immediately ushered into an elevator that brought us to the 2F Observation Deck, 90 meters above ground. There is also a 1F Observation Deck just below, at 86 meters above the ground.

From there, we could enjoy a sweeping 360-degree panorama of Hakodate city. Being adjacent to Goryokaku Park, Goryokaku Tower is the only place to fully appreciate the magnificent star-shaped layout of this special historic site that was once a fortress.

Mandatory selfie with the star-shaped fort.

Like all fortresses in the ancient days, a moat surrounds the entire fort. This protective moat is 3 meters wide and is at least a few meters in depth so any attackers need to be able to swim or sink.

A moat surrounds the entire fort, with a few access bridges. This is one of the access bridges. We would use this bridge to access the fort (now a park).

Goryokaku (五稜郭) translates literally to "five-point fort".

A 1/250 scale accurate representation of the star-shaped Goryokaku fortress when it was first built.

Why the star-shape?

The answer was actually explained in a nice graphic.                               

The star shape provides overlapping field of fire without any “dead-zone”.

When guns and cannons were developed, the structure of castles also improved. Star-shaped castles were invented around the 16th century in Europe. Many fortified cities, where the entire city is surrounded by castle walls, were built. Goryokaku of Hakodate was built by the Japanese who studied techniques from Europe.

But there is an additional “pointy” structure next to the access bridge. This mound of earth with stone walls is called the crescent bastion (or hangetsueki in Japanese).  

The crescent bastionin front of the access bridge is also surrounded by the moat. 

Looking at the crescent bastion from above, it is obvious that its purpose was purely defensive. It blocked enemies from directly seeing and shooting at the main access bridge and entrance gate. The mound of earth with stone walls was designed to soak up enemy cannon fire, protecting the access bridge and entrance to the fort. The arrow shape is also designed to split the enemy forces when they try to do a frontal assault.

We walked around the deck to view the rest of Hakodate city from above and the surrounding bays.

On this clear day, we could see Mount Hakodate with the observation deck on the summit. We also tried to spot our hotel, the JR Inn Hakodate, located towards the direction of the mountain in the south.

The first of many “Welcome to Hakodate!” signage that we would get to see.

Mount Hakodate with the observation deck on the summit.

There is also an exhibition space called Goryokaku Historic Gallery where we could learn about the history of Goryokaku. Being an avid Airfix modeller in my younger days, I enjoyed looking at the scale models and dioramas that trace the key events of the Battle of Hakodate. A notable highlight is the bronze statue of Hijikata Toshizo, vice-commander of the Shinsengumi.

We went down to the 1F Observation Deck where we could also get superb view of star-shaped Goryokaku.

A highlight on this level is The See-Through Floor. It is made of clear hardened glass for us to look directly below.

Stand on the See-Through Floor to experience walking in the sky 86 meters above the ground.

The 1F Observation Deck also has an Observation Gift Shop offering original items that is not sold elsewhere and a cafe. We had to take the elevator from this floor to get back down.                        

The atrium features a café, restaurant, and shop offering original souvenirs inspired by Goryokaku’s history. There are also some cannons and statues of prominent historical figures.

Goryokaku Park

From the tower, we took a short walk to Goryokaku Park. Access to the park is free of charge.

As we crossed the wooden Ichinohashi Bridge and then the Ninohashi Bridge that span the moat on the southwest side, we could massive stone walls behind the moat.

Goryokaku Park is famous for their 1500 cherry trees during the sakura season in late April. By late May, the season is over but there are many azalea bushes with white flowers on the top of the stone walls and pathways to the park.

Upon entry, there were more flowers to enjoy in late May. This time of year was the wisteria season. The best time to view the wisterias in Hokkaido is around late May to early June.

Wisteria are woody, twisting vines famous for their stunning, fragrant cascades of purple, pink, or white flowers.

The first thing we saw upon entering the main gate of Goryokaku was the wisteria trellis.

It must have taken many years for the vines to get such thick trunks.

The wisterias at this park were nicer and thicker than the wisterias we saw at Maeda Forest Park a few days earlier.

At the centre of the park stands the restored Hakodate Magistrate’s Office, once an administrative center of the Edo shogunate. This important government office served as the Tokugawa Shogunate's base for northern defense and foreign affairs. In fact, the purpose of the fort was to protect it.

We did not have the time to see the recreated interiors and historical exhibits that would provide insight into the dramatic events surrounding Goryokaku and the final days of the Tokugawa era.     

Restored Hakodate Magistrate’s Office.

Another “Welcome to Hakodate” signage.

As we made our way out from the park, we saw 107 meters tall Goryokaku Tower. Although I find the entrance fee to the observation deck a bit expensive, it was worth a visit to appreciate the design of this impressive fort, learn a bit about the history of Hakodate and enjoy the breathtaking views of surroundings. The park is also worth a visit to see the fort up close. The blooming wisterias and azaleas at the park were a nice bonus.

Goryokaku Tower with the 2 levels of observation deck.

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Exploring Hakodate’s Motomachi District, Night View from Mount Hakodate and Lucky Pierrot

27 May 2026

I had planned to spend 2 days in Hakodate as there are many attractions to see such as the Goryokaku Fort and Tower, Motomachi District located at the foot of Mount Hakodate, Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses located in the waterfront, Hakodate Morning Market and of course the famous night view from the summit of Mount Hakodate.

I had visited the Goryokaku Fort and Tower before checking into JR Inn Hakodate, a hotel located right on top of the JR train station. I had to adjust my itinerary in Hakodate a little as the rain was forecasted for Day 2 in Hakodate. In fact, light rain was forecasted to start at 8 PM on the night of Day 1 and continuing to the next day!

We decided to explore the Motomachi District in the late afternoon before heading up to Mount Hakodate to see the famous night view. Hopefully before the rain set in.

Hakodate was one of the first ports in Japan to be opened to foreign trade in 1854. As a result, many traders from Russia, China and Western countries moved to Hakodate. Motomachi, at the foot of Mount Hakodate, became a district favored among the new foreign residents. Many foreign-looking buildings remain in the area and are definitely worth a visit.

A walk through the Hakodate Waterfront

Although there are public trams linking the JR Station to the Motomachi area, we decided to go on foot as the weather was nice and cooling. We figured that we could enjoy some sightseeing at the waterfront along the way.

About 1 km into our walk, we came upon the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse with Mount Hakodate in the back. The weather was clear enough for us to see the observatory on the summit.

View of the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses with Mount Hakodate in the background.

Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse.

This is an old docking area where cargo ships unload their cargo into the warehouses.

The Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse (originally built in 1909) is a premier shopping and dining complex on the Hakodate waterfront. It houses about many stores, cafes, and restaurants. We would save this for a visit on a rainy day.

Across the road from the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse is a local hamburger restaurant known as the Lucky Pierrot. This fast food chain is only found in Hakodate and has become a Hakodate “must-try”. There are several such restaurants located all over the city and this was the first one we saw. More about this restaurant later in this post.

There is a Lucky Pierrot restaurant located opposite the warehouse. This is the Marina Suehiro Branch.

We came across another Lucky Pierrot restaurant as we came to the Motomachi area.

Another Lucky Pierrot restaurant in the Motomachi area. This is the Bay Area Main shop.

Statue of Kimi Chan or Girl With The Red Shoes

At the traffic junction leading up to Hachimanzaka slope, there is a small statue of a girl wearing a pair of red shoes. This is a statue of Kimi Chan, also known as the girl with the Red Shoes. .

There is a real tragic story behind this statue of a girl who was adopted by an American missionary couple and supposed to travel to America with them. Sadly she fell sick could not travel and was abandoned to die in an orphanage.

Statue of Kimi Chan. She is dressed in Western clothes, including shoulder cloak, and clutching a purse and of course, red shoes.

Hachimanzaka slope

Located on the foot of Mount Hakodate, there are many roads sloping down towards the waterfront in the Motomachi area. One of the most famous is the Hachimanzaka slope.

At this time of year, there are flowering white azaleas bushes on the sidewalk adding to the beauty. We also noted the colourful mix of Western and Japanese style building along the slope. 

Flowering white azaleas bushes on the sidewalk adding to the beauty.     

One of the best views is from the top of the slope, looking down at the sea and port. The top of the hill is a T-junction and there are cars using the road!

We saw many tourists trying to shoot their best photos in the middle of the cobblestone road. Thankfully the traffic is not heavy but if I am a resident in the area, I will be upset.

Hachimanzaka is a popular scenic spot. The view is great because it faces straight down to the sea.

Motomachi Churches

After taking photos of the Hachimanzaka Slope, we spent time exploring the famous places of worship in this area. Among the most famous are the Russian Orthodox Church, Motomachi Roman Catholic Church and Hakodate St. John’s Church.

The Russian Orthodox Church is a beautiful church with pure white walls and green roof that is located on the left of the T-Junction at Hachimanzaka Slope. 

Russian Orthodox Church is the first Russian Orthodox cathedral founded in Japan.

There are information boards like this one explaining the background of the buildings.

Front view of the Russian Orthodox Church.

Further down the road, on the left, is the Catholic Church Hakodate Motomachi. It is a small, historic Roman Catholic church featuring Gothic architecture, red roofs & a bell tower.

Catholic Church Hakodate Motomachi.

The last church we saw was the Hakodate Episcopal Church. This church is that of the Anglican Church founded by an English priest who visited Hakodate in 1874. We actually saw this church as we were making our way to the Mount Hakodate Ropeway later in the day.

This church has an interesting architecture, featuring a cross when viewed from above.

Lunch at Raymon House

I thought eating Western food while exploring Hakodate’s Motomachi district is a good way to appreciate the foreigner’s influence in this part of Japan. I had earmarked a couple of restaurants to try.

We went to the historic Carl Raymon House in Motomachi since it was located very near to the churches we just saw.

The restaurant is housed inside a Western-style house complete with a gable featuring wooden beams.

Raymon House in Hakodate’s Motomachi area that is supposed to be already 100 years old.

Upon entry we saw a display of sausages and hams in refrigerators for sale. We came to eat their sausages that are grilled upon order. Ordering is via a kiosk that has multilingual options.

Delicious traditional German-style hot dogs with very fresh lettuce.

At the back of the shop, there are stairs leading to a small museum on the second floor. The exhibition tells the story of Carl Raymon and it was worth a visit to see some old photos of Hakodate.

Carl Raymon is an Austrian who married a Japanese woman and spent his life working with authentic German ham and sausages in Hakodate.

It was interesting to learn that Carl introduced authentic German sausages to Japan and was the inspirator for flag emblem of the European Union.

Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward and Motomachi Park

After lunch we continued our exploration of the Motomachi area. We back tracked our way to the T-junction on top of Hachimanzaka slope and continued our walk through residential area to the Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward. There are some notable gardens in some of the houses.

      

Red azaleas in one of the houses.

Perched on a scenic hill overlooking Hakodate Port, the Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward is one of Hakodate’s most iconic historic landmarks. We only viewed the building from the outside.

Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward is renowned for its striking symmetrical design, painted in soft blue-gray and vibrant yellow.

In front of the building is a park with beautiful spring flowers and views. Motomachi Park also features some nice sculptures.

Motomachi Park with views out over Hakodate Port.

Another “ Welcome to Hakodate” signage.

As I was admiring these sculptures, I heard a loud “pock” sound coming from behind me. I spot a crow trying to crack a nut by dropping it onto the concrete floor from high up. It is so fascinating to watch this intelligent bird using gravity to solve a problem. The crow did this several times, each time flying higher until it gave up at the end. So sad.

This crow gave me an interesting peek into their intelligence and problem solving skills.

On to the Mount Hakodate Ropeway

It was about 5.30 PM when we made our way to the Mount Hakodate Ropeway Station. Once again, we had to walk through the residential area to the T-junction of Hachimanzaka slope. We could have saved ourselves some walking if we had visited Motomachi Park and the Old Public Hall of Hakodate Ward before seeing the places of the worship which was nearer the ropeway station. In reality, we enjoyed the additional walking since the weather and the surroundings were very pleasant and we saw things that we missed the first time.

Beautiful wisterias outside a house.

We went to look for a Russian restaurant hoping to get an early dinner before going up the mountain. It is not easy to find Russian food back home so I thought it would be a good opportunity to do this while in Hakodate. Unfortunately, this restaurant called Marutamagoya was closed on Wednesday.

There is a large dog-house outside the restaurant for the owner’s dog, named Rye.

Doghouse outside the Russian Restaurant.

 

Mount Hakodate Ropeway and the Famous Night View

We were not sure if the ropeway was in operation on this day since we did not see any cable cars going up and down the mountain.

As we approached the ropeway station, we saw a gondola leaving the station. So, it was operating but the frequency is low at this time of day.

The roundtrip tickets costs 1,800 JPY per adult. There is an information board which informed us that sunset time is at 7.02 PM and the nighttime view would begin at 7.33 PM. The beautiful night view is best about 30 minutes after sunset time.

It also set expectations that the sky could be foggy later. In fact, weather forecast was light rain after 8 PM. We would probably have a small window of time and probability that we could get to see the famous night view.

Useful information to take note of while waiting for our cable car.

The cable car has a large cabin. We were the first to board since we just missed the previous car. We stood at the side facing down to get a good view of the city as the car went up the mountain. The ride only takes three minutes.

View of the city from the gondola. We could see both bays surrounding Hakodate.

As expected, it was windy and much colder up on the summit of Mount Hakodate. We put on our hiking jackets before going out of the ropeway station at the summit. It was nice to walk around to see various views from the observatory.

The Mount Hakodate gondola as viewed from the summit.

Outdoor plaza at the summit. 

TV and communication towers at the top.

We went to observation deck and there were already hoards of people waiting for the sun to set and the night view to appear. Ushers and security personnel were present to ensure safety.

We stood behind some people but were still able to get a fairly good view.

Ad we waited for the sun to set and the city lights to come on, a few drops of rain was felt. Weather forecast in Hokkaido had been very accurate and soon, light rain fell.

Like the rest of the folks in front of us, we braved the light rain and enjoyed the transition of light to darkness. Due to the slightly misty conditions and light rain, the photos were not the best. 

Once we had enough of the views and photos, we returned into the ropeway station. By now, the interior was packed and much more crowded than when we came. We got some t-shirts from the souvenir shop before taking the gondola down again.

Overall, we were glad that we came and managed to experience the famous Hakodate night view. For those who missed the night view for whatever reasons, there is a large poster with date/time stamped on it inside the ropeway station.

I thought this made a good souvenir photo.

Motomachi Area at Night

It was good to walked back through the Motomachi area to see the views of the churches and even Hachimanzaka at night. By now, the rain had stopped.

Here are the photos.

Hakodate Episcopal Church is beautifully lit at night.

Catholic Church Hakodate Motomachi.

Russian Orthodox Church.

We had some cheeky fun at the Russian Orthodox Church, casting our shadows against the walls. 

Hachimanzaka at night with wet floor.

Dinner at Lucky Pierrot

We walked back to the Hakodate Waterfront and had our dinner at the Lucky Pierrot Restaurant, Marina Suehiro Branch. The restaurant was quiet at this time of day. We sat at a table with harbor views.

In addition to hamburgers, Lucky Pierrot also offers a wide variety of dishes, such as curry and omelette rice. We ordered the highly raved Chinese Chicken Burger, made with sweet and sour fried chicken, crisp lettuce, and fresh mayonnaise.

The Chinese Chicken Burger won the top prize in the National Local Burger contest. No wonder. It was quite delicious and the portions were generous too.

The set came with cold ice tea and fries with a creamy sauce. The soggy fries were a disappointment as I prefer crispy fries. 

Chinese Chicken Burger came with large soft buns, generous portions of fried chicken, mayonnaise and sweet sauce. The fried chicken was a bit sweet with juicy insides. 

Interior decoration inside this branch is quite wacky.

There is a souvenir store inside the restaurant selling delicious sweets, stylish original merchandise, and other items.

It started to drizzle again as we left the restaurant. We stopped to shoot some photos outside the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses that is nicely lit at night. The light reflecting off the wet floor made the photos even nicer.

  Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses.

The lights reflecting on the waters of the canal exude a romantic feel.

      

End of a long day

We ended the day at the JR Inn Lounge, located on the top floor of our hotel. Adjacent to the large public bath, the lounge is free to use and hot drinks are available to hotel guests. The lounge offers panoramic views of Mount Hakodate which was shrouded in clouds at this time.

It was good to relax and warm up with a cup of hot drink before returning to our room. I was glad that we managed to accomplish our sightseeing plans in Hakodate on this day. The weather forecasted for the next day is rain. That would be the day for shopping and indoor activities.

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