27 May 2026
Hakodate is a vibrant port city in southern Hokkaido known for its fresh seafood, 19th-century Western-style architecture, and spectacular night views.
One of the major attractions in the city of Hakodate is Goryokaku Fort and Tower. The fort is probably the most striking and also the most historically important landmark in Hakodate so I added it to my list of “must-see” in this city.
Goryokaku Fort is a massive, star-shaped, Western-style citadel, which was built in the last years of the Edo Period (1603-1868) for the defense of Hakodate against the imperialist threat posed by the Western powers. It has now been repurposed into a park. A tower called the Goryokaku Tower had been built next to the fort to allow visitors to see the full five-pointed design from above.
Goryokaku Tower
We went to Goryokaku Tower first as it was just next to where we parked our car, a car park next to the Hakodate Performing Arts Center. From there, it was a short walk to the tower.
Admission to the tower’s observation deck cost 1,200 JPY per adult. After buying the tickets, we were immediately ushered into an elevator that brought us to the 2F Observation Deck, 90 meters above ground. There is also a 1F Observation Deck just below, at 86 meters above the ground.
From there, we could enjoy a sweeping 360-degree panorama of Hakodate city. Being adjacent to Goryokaku Park, Goryokaku Tower is the only place to fully appreciate the magnificent star-shaped layout of this special historic site that was once a fortress.
Mandatory selfie with the star-shaped fort.
Like all fortresses in the ancient days, a moat surrounds the entire fort. This protective moat is 3 meters wide and is at least a few meters in depth so any attackers need to be able to swim or sink.
Goryokaku (五稜郭) translates literally to "five-point fort".
Why the star-shape?
The answer was actually explained in a nice graphic.
When guns and cannons were developed, the structure of castles also improved. Star-shaped castles were invented around the 16th century in Europe. Many fortified cities, where the entire city is surrounded by castle walls, were built. Goryokaku of Hakodate was built by the Japanese who studied techniques from Europe.
But there is an additional “pointy” structure next to the access bridge. This mound of earth with stone walls is called the crescent bastion (or hangetsueki in Japanese).
Looking at the crescent bastion from above, it is obvious that its purpose was purely defensive. It blocked enemies from directly seeing and shooting at the main access bridge and entrance gate. The mound of earth with stone walls was designed to soak up enemy cannon fire, protecting the access bridge and entrance to the fort. The arrow shape is also designed to split the enemy forces when they try to do a frontal assault.
We walked around the deck to view the rest of Hakodate city from above and the surrounding bays.On this clear day, we could see Mount Hakodate with the observation deck on the summit. We also tried to spot our hotel, the JR Inn Hakodate, located towards the direction of the mountain in the south.
There is also an exhibition space called Goryokaku Historic Gallery where we could learn about the history of Goryokaku. Being an avid Airfix modeller in my younger days, I enjoyed looking at the scale models and dioramas that trace the key events of the Battle of Hakodate. A notable highlight is the bronze statue of Hijikata Toshizo, vice-commander of the Shinsengumi.
We went down to the 1F Observation Deck where we could also get superb view of star-shaped Goryokaku.
A highlight on this level is The See-Through Floor. It is made of clear hardened glass for us to look directly below.
The atrium features a café, restaurant, and shop offering original souvenirs inspired by Goryokaku’s history. There are also some cannons and statues of prominent historical figures.
Goryokaku Park
From the tower, we took a short walk to Goryokaku Park. Access to the park is free of charge.
As we crossed the wooden Ichinohashi Bridge and then the Ninohashi Bridge that span the moat on the southwest side, we could massive stone walls behind the moat.
Goryokaku Park is famous for their 1500 cherry trees during the sakura season in late April. By late May, the season is over but there are many azalea bushes with white flowers on the top of the stone walls and pathways to the park.
Upon entry, there were more flowers to enjoy in late May. This time of year was the wisteria season. The best time to view the wisterias in Hokkaido is around late May to early June.
Wisteria are woody, twisting vines famous for their stunning, fragrant cascades of purple, pink, or white flowers.
The wisterias at this park were nicer and thicker than the wisterias we saw at Maeda Forest Park a few days earlier.
At the centre of the park stands the restored Hakodate Magistrate’s Office, once an administrative center of the Edo shogunate. This important government office served as the Tokugawa Shogunate's base for northern defense and foreign affairs. In fact, the purpose of the fort was to protect it.
We did not have the time to see the recreated interiors and historical exhibits that would provide insight into the dramatic events surrounding Goryokaku and the final days of the Tokugawa era.
As we made our way out from the park, we saw 107 meters tall Goryokaku Tower. Although I find the entrance fee to the observation deck a bit expensive, it was worth a visit to appreciate the design of this impressive fort, learn a bit about the history of Hakodate and enjoy the breathtaking views of surroundings. The park is also worth a visit to see the fort up close. The blooming wisterias and azaleas at the park were a nice bonus.
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