Viewing the autumn foliage at the Changdeokgung and Biwon Secret Garden (Part 3)

9 November 2014

The Secret Garden of Changdeokgung or Biwon is one of the best places to view autumn foliage in Seoul. That was why I chose to visit Changdeokgung over the other palaces in Seoul. As mentioned in an earlier post, entry is only permitted if we have one of the limited tickets for an escorted tour of the garden. We were lucky to get our tickets at the entrance of the Palace in the morning, for the afternoon tour.

Tip: You can also book a Secret Garden & Bukchon Hanok Village Walking Tour that includes the following: Entrance fee for Changdeokgung Palace and Secret Garden 1.5-hour guided tour of Secret Garden in Changdeokgung Palace 2.5-hour walking tour with an English speaking tour guide

The English language tour of the Secret Garden commenced promptly at 1:30 PM. The guide was a lady, dressed in hanbok, and spoke excellent English with an slight American accent. We were asked to take a pamphlet at the entrance, highlighting the places we would be visiting in this 90 minutes tour. The tour began with a quick walk up a gently sloping tar road into the huge Secret Garden, located at the northern part or back of Changdeokgung. The garden is self-contained and occupies sixty percent of Changdeokgung.

Path leading into the Secret Garden,  giving us a preview of what was to come. Full of autumn colours!

First stopping point during the tour where the guide explained a little of the history of the garden.

“Created at same time as the Changdeokgung but was destroyed during the Japanese invasion of 1592. Restoration works started in 1623, continued through the reigns of various monarchs, leading to the present state. Preserving the original topography, minimising artificial landscaping, the natural quality of the Secret Garden is enhanced. It serves as a place for the Kings and royal family members to contemplate, compose poems, host banquets and various outdoor activities like archery”.

The beautiful sights were hidden in a series of valleys and entire layout could not be seen at once. 

After a brief introduction to the garden, we walked to the Buyongji Pond and the Juhamnu Pavilion. Buyong is the Korean word for Lotus. The guide explained that the pond is square (representing the earth) with the round island in the center (representing the heaven).

Juhamnu Pavilion, a two story pavilion that served as a library and reading room during the reign of King Jeongjo.


Buyongji Pond or Lotus Pond.

Eosumun Gate.

The Eosumun Gate is a small gate that leads to Juhamnu Pavilion. The name Eosumun (Fish Water Gate in Chinese Characters) refers to the fact that a fish cannot live outside of water. This was a reminder to King Jeongjo that he as a ruler must consider and respect the people he rules. Basic principle of leadership, I think.
The larger center gate is for the King. The two side gates are made smaller and low, forcing the King’s companion to bow when entering.

Sundial in front of the Yeonghwadang Pavilion - State exams were conducted in front of Yeonghwadang Pavilion on special occasions, in the presence of the king.

The guide allowed the visitors about 10 minutes at each location to take pictures and appreciate the beauty of the place before moving on to the next stop.

Next stop – Aeryeonji Pond and Uiduhap.

 
Going through the “gate of everlasting youth” to the Aeryeonji Pond.

To enter the pavilion, one must passed through a stone gate called the Bullomun.

Bullomon (In Chinese characters means “No Getting Old Gate”).

Aeryeonji Pond at Changdeokgung Secret Garden.

As we and the other tour members go wow at the scenery and snapped plenty of photos, our guide was rather amused and told us that the next stop (Jondeokjeong Pavilion) would be even better. She was absolutely correct.
Gwallanjeong Pavilion with the colourful autumn leaves in November.

Gwallanjeong Pavilion is fan shaped and has two legs in water to simulate being on a boat. This is nice place for the king to relax.

Jondeokjeong Pavilion in autumn.

The Jondeokjeong Pavilion is a hexagonal, two storey roof pavilion.
On the underside of the painted ceiling are two dragons playing with a wish fulfilling jewel.

Yellow leaves of the ginkgo, matching well with the red and orange leaves of the other species.



The colourful autumn leaves in November.

I was glad that the colourful autumn foliage were still on the trees, although a lot of leaves were already on the ground.
To get to our next stop, we need to hike up a relatively steep slope leading to the back and highest point within the garden. The guide walked very fast and by now, half the tour group was far behind me.

Hiking up to the Ongnyucheon Stream, our next stop.


Arriving at the Ongnyucheon Stream, with its 3 small pavilions - Soyojeong (Pavilion), Taegeukjeong (Pavilion), and Chunguijeong (Pavilion).


Soyojeong (Pavilion) with red leaves forming the backdrop.

Soyoam, which stands in the middle of Ongnyucheon, is formed from a rock with a rounded water channel carved into it and features a small waterfall (now almost dry). Kings and courtiers enjoyed playing a game of composing poem (like rap) and drinking wine here from floating cups. One who cannot compose the next line loses and has to drink the wine.
Ongnyucheon - King Injo's own handwriting inscribed on Soyoam.

After visiting the gardens and pavilions, the guide brought us to view the men and women living quarters. The gate leading to men’s quarters were taller than that of the women. Was it because the men were taller than the women?

No.

The reason was that in the old days, men were carried on sedan chairs and so needed the taller gate!

On the way out of the garden, we passed by a 750 year old Juniper tree. So old that it needs plenty of wire and metal supports.

In summary, we were glad to have the chance to visit the Secret Garden in late autumn and still managed to see most of the awesome fall foliage. If we had came a week earlier, it would have been even nicer when the leaves were at its peak. If we had came a week later, we may not even get to see any of the colours at all.