Viewing the autumn foliage at the Changdeokgung and Biwon Secret Garden (Part 1)

9 November 2014

Changdeokgung is one of the recommended places to enjoy viewing the autumn leaves in Seoul, especially the Biwon (Secret Garden) or Huwon (Back Garden) within the palace. Entry to the Biwon is only via a guided tour and places are limited each day. I tried making a booking at this website but it was already full (as expected) since we planned the trip so late. The only other way to get access is to turn up early at the palace (9 AM when ticket booth opens) and try to get the limited tickets that are sold daily. 

Tip: You can also book a Secret Garden & Bukchon Hanok Village Walking Tour that combines a guided tour of the Secret Garden with a walk through the Bukchon Hanok Village, located next to the palace.

We arrived at the palace at about 9:30 AM and were lucky to be able to get our tickets for the second English language tour of the day, starting at 1:30 PM. Ticket to the Biwon costs 5000 KRW per person and this is in addition to the 3000 KRW ticket for general entry into Changdeokgung.

There are free English language guided tour of the palace grounds and we joined the tour starting at 10:30 AM.  These are some of the photos we shot while waiting for the tour to commence.
The old and the new. The Donwhamun (entry to the palace) is one of the oldest palace main gate existing in Korea. ‘Donhwa’ means ‘the friendly reform of the people, thanks to the king’. Interesting to see a well preserved historic site surrounded by modern buildings.

This red-leaf tree was the focus of attention for all the visitors who first stepped into the palace ground. Beautiful autumn foliage. Everyone wanted a photo with the tree, including me.

This tree has a combination of blazing red leaves on the outside, and yellow, orange leaves and even green leaves nearer the trunk.

Geumcheongyo Bridge - Oldest stone bridge in Seoul. It leads to the second palace gate (Jinseonmun).

Second palace gate Jinseonmun, located located after the stone bridge Gumcheongyo.

Typical small figurines of creatures found on the roof of Korean (and Chinese) palaces and temple buildings.  The locals belief that these figurines protect the occupants of the building.

View of the Jinseonmun, looking out. The centre raised walkway leading from the gate is for the King. His subjects walk next to him, on slightly lower pathway on both sides.

Changdeokgung – best time to visit is in the autumn.


The tour started promptly at 10:30 AM and would take about one hour. The guide was a lady dressed in the traditional hanbok with a modern hat. She gave a brief history of the palace and led us through the course.  Passing by the Geumcheongyo, Jinseonmun and the Injeongmun, we came to the Injeongjeon (Throne Hall) that was used for major state events.

Guide telling us the palace is located with the Bukhansan behind and a river in front (like the Gyengbokgung and Presidential Blue House) for good Feng Shui.

Injeongjeon (Throne Hall) used for major state events including the coronation of new kings and receiving foreign envoys. There are 9 levels of ranks stones on the left and right side. One side is for military personnel to stand and the other is for non-military personnel. Obviously, the rank 1 is closest to the King.

Throne with the wooden screen behind showing sun, moon, 5 mountain peaks, waterfalls, waves and pine trees.

Injeongjeon (Throne Hall) – guide recommended this view as the best for photo of the Injeongjeon.

Looking across the wall, the roof of the next building (Seonjeongjeon Hall) has blue grazed tiles which the guide told us was specially imported from Italy.


We went to the next courtyard containing a building with blue roof tiles. This is the Seonjeongjeon Hall - An office for ruling officials. The king held daily meetings with ministers, reported on state affairs and seminars here.
Exquisite roof details in the Seonjeongjeon Hall. The modern lightings were introduced towards the later part of the dynasty.

Close-up view of the King’s seat. Similar wooden screen at the back with moon, sun, 5 mountain peaks, waterfall and waves.


There is a building that is differentiated from other palace buildings in that it has no ridge on the roof. This is the Daejojeon Hall - Official residence of the queen. The ridge represents the dragon and is the symbol of the king. Hence, no dragon (ridge) for the Queen’s residence.

Daejojeon Hall - no ridge on the roof. Destroyed by fire in 1917, it was rebuilt with materials taken from Gyeongbokgung. Daejojeon was used as a residence for the last empress of Joseon. Quite modern in some aspects, e.g. usage of glass, electric lightings.


The guide also pointed to us several interesting points about the building design in general. Korea is very cold in winter and uses the under floor heating system, called the ondol. In the old days, coal was burned (coal produces less smoke) and the heat transfer was through pipes under the masonry floor. Smoke escapes through a separate chimney in the back of the building.

Opening for a stove or firebox to heat up a masonry floor.


Standalone chimney for the ondol at the back of the building. A row of stairs in the background leads to the Secret Garden.


Natural ventilation are built into the top of the building.

The brown tile has gaps in it and served as an air vent for natural ventilation.

Details of the air vent (brown vent in the middle is actually a Chinese word – not sure the meaning though). Another building has a vent with a “double happiness” in Chinese inscribed.


The last building shown by the guide was the Nakseonjae Hall. Nakseonjae was built in 1847 (in the 13th year of King Heonjong's reign). Nakseonjae served as King Heonjong's study, or sarangchae. The interior is characterized by beautiful colourful lattice work.
Entrance to the Nakseonjae.

This is how lessons should be done. A teacher dressed in traditional hanbok explaining something to attentive students with drawing boards (on a Sunday).

Having a rest at the back of a building inside the Nakseonjae.


After the hour long tour, we were free to explore the palace at our own pace before the commencement of the Biwon or Secret Garden tour at 1:30 PM. There was time for a quick lunch nearby.