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Stockholm in Winter – exploring northern Södermalm, Gamla Stan, Skeppsholmen and Kungsträdgården


16 January 2017

The adults in our group woke up early. While having our breakfast, I noticed that it was snowing outside. Snow flurries was forecasted, so I was half expecting that. I woke the girls up and there were squeals of excitement as they whipped out their smartphones to take videos of the falling snow. Living in a country near the equator, experiencing snowfall for the first time was an exciting event.

While the rest of the group took their time to have their breakfast, my wife and I went out to explore the northern part of Södermalm.


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Snow was still falling when we left the apartment. Our first destination was the Katarina Church (Katarina Kyrka).

Katarina Church (Katarina Kyrka).

We walked through the church grounds towards the direction of the Katarinavagen. Katarinavagen was one of the recommended spots in Stockholm for nice panoramic views. The fresh snowfall on the church ground made the place quite attractive.

Somewhere along the way, we spotted a playground with small kindergarten kids playing in the snow. Swedish kids must be really tough, growing up in an environment like this. In my excitement to snap some photos of the playing kids, I slipped and fell forward due to the treacherous ice on the sidewalk, concealed by the fresh snow. The 2 to 3 layers of winter clothes and gloves on the hand cushioned my fall and I escaped with only minor bruises on my knee but major bruises to my ego.



This is how you should walk on the icy sidewalks. Slow and steady!

After a “lesson” on how to walk on snow and ice in Stockholm, we made it safely to the Katarinavagen viewpoint. 
Looking down at the Katarinavagen viewpoint. Djurgården can be partially seen in the background despite the light snow flurries.


Many of the central islands were viewable from this location, with Gamla Stan (the Old Town) on the left and the Gröna Lund amusement park on Djurgården to the front and right.

A snow-covered bicycle on the Katarinavagen viewpoint, with Gamla Stan in the background. 


We walked the entire stretch of Katarinavagen to Slussen T-bana Station where we took the tunnelbana to Gamla Stan, just one stop away.

Sculpture just outside the Gamla Stan T-bana station.

I felt that Gamla Stan looked almost the same as it was when I last visited 30 years ago. The cobble-stone streets lined with souvenir shops and restaurants were still around. Being a weekday and also being winter, there were fewer people on the streets.
Street in Gamla Stan.

I remembered Gamla Stan was where the narrowest street in Stockholm was located and I went to search for it using google map. Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, that’s the name.


Gamla StanNarrowest street in Stockholm with old gas lanterns.  - Mårten Trotzigs Gränd.


Leading from Västerlånggatan and Järntorget up to Prästgatan and Tyska Stallplan, the width of its 36 steps tapers down to a mere 90 centimetres, hence making the alley the narrowest street in Stockholm.


After climbing the 36 steps up the narrow alleyway, we headed in the direction of the Stortorget, the old town square in Gamla Stan. This was where Stockholm was founded in 1252.


 

Like most old towns in Europe, you would find tour operators offering Ghost Walk tours and it was no different in Gamla Stan.

Stortorget is lined with beautiful buildings, erected during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, making this a must-see place in Stockholm. The Nobel Museum is also located here but we did not plan to visit it on this trip. 
This viewpoint of the buildings in Stortorget is the most photographed. The well in the middle of the square had stood there since the Middle Ages.

The next must-see place which was only a short walk away.  The Royal Palace or Kungliga slottet is His Majesty The King's official residence and is also the setting for most of the monarchy's official receptions.  There are usually Changing of the Guards parade being performed here daily but not on this day. Probably the snow fall in the morning had caused the parade to be cancelled.


Royal Palace or Kungliga slottet.

I did not envy the guard on duty, standing still in the cold winter. I hope his dark blue coat would be able to keep him warm.



The palace contains many interesting things to see. In addition to the Royal Apartments there are three museums steeped in regal history: the Treasury with the regalia, the Tre Kronor Museum that portrays the palaces medieval history and Gustav III's Museum of Antiquities. We defer the visits inside the Palace for another day (maybe the next time we come to Stockholm in May/June 2017).

We met up with the rest of the gang at the Skeppsbrokajen, the quay on the eastern side of Gamla Stan.


On the way from the Royal Palace to the Skeppsbrokajen.

 

After taking some photos at the waterfront, we went to a nice restaurant called the Gastabud to have lunch. This restaurant serves delicious meals and provides excellent service.

Outside the Gastabud restaurant in Gamla Stan.

After lunch, there was still some daylight left but not much since the sun sets quite early in winter. We made our way to Skeppsholmen.
Some of the best views of Stockholm could be seen along the waterfront from the Skeppsbrokajen quay to
Skeppsholmen.

Late 1800s ship called Af Chapman on Skeppsholms island. The ship is operating as a youth hostel!







Gilded Crown on Skeppsholmsbron, the bridge leading to Skeppsholms island.

Despite many constructions seen around Stockholm, this place had not changed one bit. I compared some old photos taken 30 years ago and they looked almost identical. The white three-mast ship called the Af Chapman was exactly the same as it was 30 years ago!


Comparing our photos taken 30 years ago with the present day.

By about 4 PM, it was totally dark and the street lamps were lit. We made our way to Kungsträdgården (Swedish for "King's Garden"). This is a park in central Stockholm. It was beautifully lit.




Kungsträdgården in winter.


In winter, the center area of the park is transformed into a public ice skating rink. Those interested could rent a skate and just join in the fun.

Kungsträdgården in winter. Public ice skating rink.



We ended the day enjoying some warm and shopping in the NK Department store before heading back to our apartment for some “home” cooked meal.

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Stockholm in Winter – Shopping for shoes and clothes for millennial generation

17 January 2017

We spent the morning at my son’s apartment meeting up with Patrick (Airbnb Host) to get some things done up in the apartment while he was away in the university. Once done, we went to the city centre to meet up with him and have lunch at Kajsas Fisk at Hotorgshallen. Its signature dish is fisksoppa (fish soup) which was very good and tasty. It came with free flow of bread and salad.




Kajsas Fisk at Hotorgshallen.Half eaten soup - Super tasty and packed with seafood.

Quite a good value for money lunch in Stockholm.
Then we spent the rest of the day wandering around the malls in Stockholm. This includes the Gallerian, H&M, Ahlens and Drottninggatan.

For the young adults in the group, the highlight of the day was shopping for limited-edition sports shoes. Apparently, the models sold back home were very limited and there is a much wider range and models in Europe (and of course Stockholm).

Just some of the range seen!




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Stockholm in Winter – Monteliusvägen and Söder Mälarstrand for best views

18 January 2017



Monteliusvägen is one of the best places to enjoy panoramic views of Stockholm.  The 416m walking path is between Kattgränd on the west and Skolgränd on the east.  To get to this place, we took the subway to the Slussen T-bana station and walked the rest of the way to Skolgränd.

 First glimpse of the awesome view.




I kicked myself for forgetting to bring my Canon G5X and had to use my Samsung smartphone camera.




On any day, the pretty city of Stockholm waterfront and lakes would have been a photographer’s delight. Throw in some fresh snow and ice on the lakes, the views became much more interesting.  This was the reward for visiting in winter





The walkway was wide enough to accommodate larger groups but we were the only tourists on this trail. We met some local resident walking their dogs. The dogs in Sweden are generally well trained and friendly.

Along the way, there are terraces, park benches and picnic tables, making it easy to stop and enjoy the view. We had to be very careful with the ice on the wooden walkway.




Almost reaching Kattgränd, the western end of the trail.

This is what happens when you don’t use a Touch-sensitive gloves. Freezing hands.


After walking the Monteliusvägen, we made our way down to the edge of the lake along Söder Mälarstrand. Here we could get a closer look at the frozen lake and different viewpoints.



These are boats, operating as hostels along this stretch of the lake.


 

Panoramic view of the lake along Söder Mälarstrand.


We then walked across the bridge towards Gamla Stan and Riddarholmen. The viewpoints on this bridge were quite awesome as well.



Looking towards Slussen from the Centralbron bridge.



View of Söder Mälarstrand (where we came from) from the Centralbron bridge. 


View of Riddarholmen.


After the cold morning walk, we stopped by the Expresson House cafe in Gamla Stan for hot drinks and snacks! 

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Stockholm in Winter - Visit to ABBA The Museum at Djurgården island

19 January 2017


I belonged to the generation that grew up listening to ABBA music. Hence a visit to the museum dedicated to the Swedish foursome would be interesting. Since the Vasa Museum was also located near the ABBA The Museum, we planned a day out to both.

ABBA: The Museum is a permanent exhibition in the “Swedish Music Hall OF Fame” on the island of Djurgården, a brisk walk, or a short bus or tram ride from the city centre.


We travelled to the ABBA Museum using a combination of subway and bus. By the time we arrived at the entrance, it was slightly past 11 AM.  We saw a cut-out of the famous four but one of the celebrities was missing a face.





Tickets are 250 SEK per adult and we need to buy them online using credit cards and collect them from a machine at the entrance.  No ticket sale by cash at the museum. The printed entrance ticket includes a personal ID that generates a page on the museum website. This ticket is also used for the interactive displays inside the museum where we could sing and dance with holograms of ABBA, don a digital costume projected on us in a special booth.
  


ABBA The MusuemInside a karaoke booth where we could choose ABBA songs to sing along with. The machine will judge your singing and assign you a score!



Besides the interactive displays, the museum showcases the band’s stage clothes, artefacts, concert footage, interviews etc.  There was even The Arrival helicopter from the classic LP Cover at the museum.
ABBA The MuseumStage outfits worn by ABBA for their performance at the 1974 Eurovision Song Contest.


I enjoyed the video of ABBA singing ‘Waterloo’ at the Eurovision Song Contest in Brighton in 1974 where they won and launched their stardom.

ABBA The MuseumLife-size figures of Agnetha Fältskog. Björn Ulvaeus. Benny Andersson and Anni-Frid Lyngstad, collectively known as ABBA.
Who was your favourite?



ABBA sold more than 379 million records!

Overall, the visit to the ABBA Museum plus a quick look through the ‘Swedish Music Hall of Fame’ took about 2 hours. While I enjoyed the cool interactive displays, I felt there was something lacking. More about what happened after the group split up and how as individuals, they had continued their lives would be good. 

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