Stockholm in Winter – exploring northern Södermalm, Gamla Stan, Skeppsholmen and Kungsträdgården

16 January 2017

The adults in our group woke up early. While having our breakfast, I noticed that it was snowing outside. Snow flurries was forecasted, so I was half expecting that. I woke the girls up and there were squeals of excitement as they whipped out their smartphones to take videos of the falling snow. Living in a country near the equator, experiencing snowfall for the first time was an exciting event.

While the rest of the group took their time to have their breakfast, my wife and I went out to explore the northern part of Södermalm.

Snow was still falling when we left the apartment. Our first destination was the Katarina Church (Katarina Kyrka).

Katarina Church (Katarina Kyrka).

We walked through the church grounds towards the direction of the Katarinavagen. Katarinavagen was one of the recommended spots in Stockholm for nice panoramic views. The fresh snowfall on the church ground made the place quite attractive.

Somewhere along the way, we spotted a playground with small kindergarten kids playing in the snow. Swedish kids must be really tough, growing up in an environment like this. In my excitement to snap some photos of the playing kids, I slipped and fell forward due to the treacherous ice on the sidewalk, concealed by the fresh snow. The 2 to 3 layers of winter clothes and gloves on the hand cushioned my fall and I escaped with only minor bruises on my knee but major bruises to my ego.



This is how you should walk on the icy sidewalks. Slow and steady!

After a “lesson” on how to walk on snow and ice in Stockholm, we made it safely to the Katarinavagen viewpoint. 
Looking down at the Katarinavagen viewpoint. Djurgården can be partially seen in the background despite the light snow flurries.


Many of the central islands were viewable from this location, with Gamla Stan (the Old Town) on the left and the Gröna Lund amusement park on Djurgården to the front and right.

A snow-covered bicycle on the Katarinavagen viewpoint, with Gamla Stan in the background. 


We walked the entire stretch of Katarinavagen to Slussen T-bana Station where we took the tunnelbana to Gamla Stan, just one stop away.

Sculpture just outside the Gamla Stan T-bana station.

I felt that Gamla Stan looked almost the same as it was when I last visited 30 years ago. The cobble-stone streets lined with souvenir shops and restaurants were still around. Being a weekday and also being winter, there were fewer people on the streets.
Street in Gamla Stan.

I remembered Gamla Stan was where the narrowest street in Stockholm was located and I went to search for it using google map. Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, that’s the name.

Narrowest street in Stockholm with old gas lanterns.  - Mårten Trotzigs Gränd.

Leading from Västerlånggatan and Järntorget up to Prästgatan and Tyska Stallplan, the width of its 36 steps tapers down to a mere 90 centimetres, hence making the alley the narrowest street in Stockholm.

After climbing the 36 steps up the narrow alleyway, we headed in the direction of the Stortorget, the old town square in Gamla Stan. This was where Stockholm was founded in 1252.

 

Like most old towns in Europe, you would find tour operators offering Ghost Walk tours and it was no different in Gamla Stan.

Stortorget is lined with beautiful buildings, erected during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, making this a must-see place in Stockholm. The Nobel Museum is also located here but we did not plan to visit it on this trip. 
This viewpoint of the buildings in Stortorget is the most photographed. The well in the middle of the square had stood there since the Middle Ages.

The next must-see place which was only a short walk away.  The Royal Palace or Kungliga slottet is His Majesty The King's official residence and is also the setting for most of the monarchy's official receptions.  There are usually Changing of the Guards parade being performed here daily but not on this day. Probably the snow fall in the morning had caused the parade to be cancelled.

Royal Palace or Kungliga slottet.

I did not envy the guard on duty, standing still in the cold winter. I hope his dark blue coat would be able to keep him warm.



The palace contains many interesting things to see. In addition to the Royal Apartments there are three museums steeped in regal history: the Treasury with the regalia, the Tre Kronor Museum that portrays the palaces medieval history and Gustav III's Museum of Antiquities. We defer the visits inside the Palace for another day (maybe the next time we come to Stockholm in May/June 2017).

We met up with the rest of the gang at the Skeppsbrokajen, the quay on the eastern side of Gamla Stan.

On the way from the Royal Palace to the Skeppsbrokajen.

 

After taking some photos at the waterfront, we went to a nice restaurant called the Gastabud to have lunch. This restaurant serves delicious meals and provides excellent service.

Outside the Gastabud restaurant in Gamla Stan.

After lunch, there was still some daylight left but not much since the sun sets quite early in winter. We made our way to Skeppsholmen.
Some of the best views of Stockholm could be seen along the waterfront from the Skeppsbrokajen quay to Skeppsholmen.

Late 1800s ship called Af Chapman on Skeppsholms island. The ship is operating as a youth hostel!







Gilded Crown on Skeppsholmsbron, the bridge leading to Skeppsholms island.

Despite many constructions seen around Stockholm, this place had not changed one bit. I compared some old photos taken 30 years ago and they looked almost identical. The white three-mast ship called the Af Chapman was exactly the same as it was 30 years ago!

Comparing our photos taken 30 years ago with the present day.

By about 4 PM, it was totally dark and the street lamps were lit. We made our way to Kungsträdgården (Swedish for "King's Garden"). This is a park in central Stockholm. It was beautifully lit.

Kungsträdgården in winter.

In winter, the center area of the park is transformed into a public ice skating rink. Those interested could rent a skate and just join in the fun.

Kungsträdgården in winter. Public ice skating rink.

We ended the day enjoying some warm and shopping in the NK Department store before heading back to our apartment for some “home” cooked meal.