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Day trip to Gstaad and Saanen from Montreux

31 July 2018

Day trip to Gstaad and Saanen from Montreux

On our last day in Montreux, we decided to do a day trip to Saanenland in the western corner of the Bernese Oberland, about 1.5 hours by train from Montreux. 

We took the 9.44 AM GoldenPass Panoramic train to Gstaad, the main village of the Saanenland. The ultra-modern trains that operate on the GoldenPass Panoramic line between Montreux and Zweisimmen have some unique features designed for sightseeing. In addition to being extremely comfortable, they are also fitted with large panoramic windows for passengers to enjoy a scenic train journey.

Soon after the train departed from Montreux, we had views of Lake Geneva and Montreux as our train zig-zagged its way up the mountain.

View of Montreux and Lake Geneva from the GoldenPass Panoramic train.

View of Montreux and Lake Geneva from the GoldenPass Panoramic train.


We could see the apartment that was our “home away from home” for the last 3 days in Montreux. It was easy to spot. It was the tallest building in the city, by the lake.

It was good that we sat on the right side of carriage, as it offered better scenery than the left side.

View from the GoldenPass Panoramic train.

View from the GoldenPass Panoramic train as it heads towards Gstaad.


Our train passed through forests, little quaint Swiss villages and the occasional short tunnels as we headed towards Gstaad. Green pine covered mountains formed the backdrop.

Food and beverage service were offered on board the GoldenPass scenic trains. The menu was placed on each table between the seats. Besides the usual coffee, tea and snacks, one could also travel in style with red and white wines served on board.

Food and beverage service were offered on board the Goldenpass Scenic train

Sample menu of the food and beverage service on the GoldenPass train.


We took the 9.44 AM GoldenPass Panoramic train to Gstaad, the main village of the Saanenland.

Arriving at Gstaad from Montreux via the GoldenPass Panoramic train.


Gstaad is a charming village full of restored weathered-wood chalets

First glimpse of Gstaad.


We arrived at Gstaad at 11.05 AM, right on schedule. Gstaad is a charming village full of restored weathered-wood chalets.

A statue of a bear outside the Gstaad station served as a reminder that we are now in the German-speaking section of the Canton of Bern.

A statue of a bear outside the Gstaad station served as a reminder that we are now in the German-speaking section of the Canton of Bern.


Gstaad is a charming village full of restored weathered-wood chalets

Pedestrian only shopping street in Gstaad.


The middle of the village features a picturesque pedestrian-only street bounded by numerous shops, restaurants, art galleries, and hotels.  Some of these buildings are a few hundred years old, including the Hotel Olden and the Posthotel Rossli, the oldest hotel in Gstaad built in 1845.

Gstaad is a charming village full of restored weathered-wood chalets. Some of these buildings are a few hundred years old, including the Hotel Olden

Hotel Olden, built 1899.


Gstaad is a charming village full of restored weathered-wood chalets

Typical store in Gstaad.


The shops along the shopping street offer designer labels such as Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Prada, Rolex, Ralph Lauren and Cartier. It was strictly window-shopping only for us.

Gstaad is a charming village full of restored weathered-wood chalets

Gstaad is a charming village full of restored weathered-wood chalets

Gstaad is a charming village full of restored weathered-wood chalets


Gstaad is a popular ski resort frequented by the rich and famous. A famous resident of Gstaad is the actress Elizabeth Taylor. Her daughter commissioned a bronze statue and fountain called Rosie featuring a calf sipping at a stone trough, in honour of her mother.

A bronze statue of a calf (called Rosie) drinking at a stone trough and fountain, in front of the Posthotel Rossli, the oldest hotel in Gstaad built in 1845.

A bronze statue of a calf (called Rosie) drinking at a stone trough and fountain, in front of the Posthotel Rossli, the oldest hotel in Gstaad built in 1845.


Other celebrities who lived in Gstaad include actress Julie Andrews and director Blake Edwards. She also donated a fountain and a duck statue, called Sitting Duck, created from a drawing by Edwards, which sits next to the pedestrian main street not far from Rosie.

Julie Andrew’s fountain called Sitting Duck at Gstaad.

Julie Andrew’s fountain called Sitting Duck at Gstaad.


A small church in the middle of the town Gstaad.

A small church in the middle of the town.


Gstaad Palace – a luxury hotel on a mountainside overlooking the village.

Gstaad Palace – a luxury hotel on a mountainside overlooking the village.


The cow - favourite animal of the Swiss. Shop at Gstaad

The cow - favourite animal of the Swiss.


There were many cafes and restaurants in Gstaad. After browsing around, we finally decided to have lunch at the Restaurant Bar Rialto.

Lunch at Restaurant Bar Rialto in Gstaad. Excellent grilled veal at the Restaurant Bar Rialto.

Excellent grilled veal at the Restaurant Bar Rialto.


Lunch at Restaurant Bar Rialto in Gstaad. Pizza Lebanese – a pizza that we tried at the Rialto.
Pizza Lebanese – a pizza that we tried at the Rialto.


Lunch at Restaurant Bar Rialto in Gstaad. Veal escalope with spinach.
Veal escalope with spinach.


The Rialto serves good and reasonably priced food. The friendly waiter offers excellent service. The terrace that we sat in was next to the pedestrian street. A perfect spot to watch people strolling on the promenade while we enjoyed our meal.

After lunch, we did a walk to the Saanen, a neighbouring village about 3.2 km away.

Map showing the walking path from Gstaad to Saanen

Walk from Gstaad to Saanen

Walk from Gstaad to Saanen

Walk from Gstaad to Saanen. Typical view of Saanenland. Green meadows and alpine mountains.

Walk from Gstaad to Saanen - views of Saanenland

Typical view of Saanenland. Green meadows and alpine mountains.


Walk from Gstaad to Saanen - views of Saanenland


Part of the walk from Gstaad to Saanen is on the path next to the Saanen River.

Walk from Gstaad to Saanen - views of Saanenland

We stopped briefly to admire young girls practising their riding skills at a riding stable on our right.


Walk from Gstaad to Saanen - views of Saanenland

Making an impromptu stop at the river.


Part of the walk from Gstaad to Saanen is on the path next to the Saanen River.

As usual, Daniel could not resist putting his feet into the water.


Walk from Gstaad to Saanen

The trail between Gstaad and Saanen is a very popular and easy hiking route, called the Philosopher's Way.


Walk from Gstaad to Saanen

Walking past campgrounds, next to the Saanen River, on the way to Saanen.


Walk from Gstaad to Saanen

Approaching Saanen.


Saanen Railway Station – small and prettiest train station I ever seen.

Saanen Railway Station – small and prettiest train station I ever seen.


The icon of Saanen – the white dairy Saanen Goat.

The icon of Saanen – the white dairy Saanen Goat.


Saanen is a quiet, rustic, sleepy village with much lesser visitors compared to Gstaad.  There was not much to do within the village, except browsing at a few shops selling traditional handicrafts.

Village centre in Saanen with chalets dating back to the 15th to 18th century.

Village centre in Saanen, with chalets dating back to the 15th to 18th century.

Village centre in Saanen with chalets dating back to the 15th to 18th century.


A small tea house in Saanen where we had our afternoon tea.

A small tea house in Saanen where we had our afternoon tea.


We made the mistake of not checking the schedule of the trains that will bring us back to Montreux until we had almost finished our afternoon tea. The frequency of the Goldenpass trains serving this route is approximately one per hour. We realised that the next train that leaves Saanen for Montreux would be in ten minutes’ time. We hurried to the train station, just in time to see the train pulling away from Saanen station. Swiss trains ran like clockwork and will arrive and depart within minutes of the schedule.

While waiting for the next train, due in over an hour’s time, we walked to the Saanen Airfield to watch gliders landing.

watching gliders landing at Saanen airfield

Saanen Airfield.


watching gliders landing at Saanen airfield

Walking back to Saanen Station to catch the 5.01 PM train back to Montruex.

Walking back to Saanen Station to catch the 5.01 PM train back to Montreux.


Walking back to Saanen Station to catch the 5.05 PM train back to Montruex.

Missing our earlier train in Saanen was a blessing in disguise. The next train we took at 5 PM was the GoldenPass Classic, instead of the GoldenPass Panoramic. 

The “Classic” Golden Pass train is a replica of the elegant Belle-Époque trains. It offers the chance to experience a scenic train ride as it might have been in the old days when the famous “Orient Express” ran through Switzerland.

The “Classic” Golden Pass train is a replica of the elegant Belle-Époque trains. It offers the chance to experience a scenic train ride as it might have been in the old days when the famous “Orient Express” ran through Switzerland.

The “Classic” Golden Pass train is a replica of the elegant Belle-Époque trains. It offers the chance to experience a scenic train ride as it might have been in the old days when the famous “Orient Express” ran through Switzerland.


The cars have been refurbished or rebuilt with carved wooden decoration, rich fabric seats, brass fittings and bevelled and etched opal windows between the coaches.

Riding the GoldenPass Classic train back to Montreux.

Riding the GoldenPass Classic train back to Montreux.

Riding the GoldenPass Classic train back to Montreux.


The route and the scenery of both the Panoramic and the Classic are the same. On the way back to Montreux, we passed through beautiful mountain meadows of grazing cows, villages with ancient wooden farm chalets, pine forests, crossed rivers and views of Alpine peaks.

We arrived back in Montreux at about 6.30 PM. We headed towards the promenade near to our apartment and took a dip in Lake Geneva once again.

The weather in Switzerland had been unusually warm this summer and many were taking to the cool waters of the lake.

Taking a swim in Lake Geneva near to our apartment in Montreux

Taking a swim in Lake Geneva near to our apartment in Montreux

Taking a dip in the cool waters of Lake Geneva near our apartment in Montreux.


This was the last day of our stay in Montreux. The next day, August 1, is the National Day of Switzerland and we would be heading home  via Lucerne to Zurich Airport on this day.

We were treated to a fireworks display over Lake Geneva at almost midnight, as the Swiss celebrated their National Day. 

fireworks display in Montreux on eve of Swiss National Day

In a way, it seemed that Montreux was bidding us farewell.

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One week in Wengen – our family’s summer holiday in Switzerland

I did my planning for our summer holidays at least 6 months in advance and we had made up our mind that the location would be in Europe, since we would be in the UK to attend a son’s graduation.  I was torn between hiking in the Switzerland’s mountains or the beautiful western coasts of Italy, namely the Amalfi Coast or Cinque Terre. It was difficult to go for a holiday with the entire family of 5 due to timing constraints and individual commitments. It turned out that we had to do our Europe trip in July after visiting UK. Hence, we decided on Switzerland as I think the weather in July would be too hot to enjoy hiking in Italy.

Switzerland is known to be an extremely expensive country to visit and it was made worse by the sudden increase in the Swiss francs on January 15th, when the Swiss National Bank (SNB) suddenly announced that it would no longer hold the Swiss franc at a fixed exchange rate with the euro. Our planned vacation just got more expensive by at least 10%. It was “bite the bullet” and go for it since the Swiss Francs is not going to be back to the old rates anytime soon.

For a family of 5, hotel accommodations and eating out would blow a big hole in the vacation budget. The best way (maybe the only way) to enjoy Switzerland and not spend a fortune on hotels and meals is to rent a self-catering apartment (or chalet in Switzerland). Fortunately, there were many excellent Swiss chalets for weekly rental in summer. The rental typically starts with checking in on a Saturday afternoon and checking out on the next Saturday morning. I booked a 3-bedroom chalet on the Interhome web site. Bella Vista, in Wengen, Switzerland would be our vacation home for a week!

Wengen is a mountain village in the Bernese Oberland of central Switzerland, one of the most beautiful places in the world. The plan was to use Wengen as a hub (I was also considering Lauterbrunnen but chose Wengen finally for the better mountain views) and make day trips out for hikes on the many mountain trails on the gorgeous Swiss Alps.

Getting to Switzerland from the UK to Switzerland was via Zurich. The flights were not that expensive as many airlines served this route and pricings were competitive. We flew by British Airways in order to make use of the Avios points we had earned from our long distance International flights a year ago.

Swiss train at Wengen

Swiss train at Wengen.


After accommodations and meals, the next biggest cost in a Swiss holiday was the train tickets. The best and most efficient way to travel around Switzerland is using the Swiss Rail. It is said that we can tell by the time of day by the timings of the trains and we found that to be practically correct.

We saved some money by buying the Half Fare travelcard which gave us 50% off almost all train, boat, cable car and bus fares for a month.  There were many different travel cards and regional rail passes. For the itinerary I had, this worked out to be the most economical. However, it also meant that we had to buy tickets at the train and cable car stations each time before boarding.


Cable car to First, Switzerland

Cable car to First, Switzerland.


So, how did we spent the one week in Wengen?

Each day, we would have breakfast in our apartment, explore the beautiful areas around the Bernese Oberland during the day and return to our apartment in the evening to prepare and have dinner. The sun sets quite late in July. After dinner, there was more family bonding time and deciding what to do the next day which depended a lot on the weather forecast.

This is the summary of what we did in Switzerland.


Day 1 ( 4 July 2015)

Fly from UK to Zurich. Take the scenic train to Wengen via Luzern, Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen.

Check into our Bella Vista chalet.

Bella Vista apartment in Wengen

Bella Vista apartment in Wengen.


Free and easy in Wengen for the rest of the evening.

Trip report here.


Day 2 ( 5 July 2015)

Go to Lauterbrunnen to take the cable car to

Grütschalp. Do the easy scenic 4.3km walk from Grütschalp to Mürren.  This easy route crosses forests and grasslands. It offers great views of the Lauterbrunnen valley and the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains.  After lunch at Mürren, take the funicular railway from Mürren up to Allmendhubel and hike to Gimmelwald via the Northface trail. The Northface trail is slightly challenging but is one the best hikes in the Bernese Oberland.


Hiking the Northface trail in Bernese Oberland

Hiking the Northface trail in Bernese Oberland


From Gimmelwald, take the gondola down to Stechelberg and take the post-bus from there back to Lauterbrunnen. From Lauterbrunnen, take the train back to Wengen.

Trip report Part 1 - Grütschalp to Mürren walk. 

Trip report Part 2 - Northface trail.


Day 3 (6 July 2015)

Take train to Schynige Platte from Wengen. It should take about 2 hours to get there (From Wengen to Lauterbrunnen, and then to Wilderswil to take the cog wheel train up to Schynige Platte).


The journey offered nice views of the mountains and lakes on the way.

Do the Schynige Platte - Louchernhorn - Schynige Platte (Panorama Trail) hike.


Schynige Platte - Louchernhorn - Schynige Platte (Panorama Trail) hike.

Schynige Platte - Louchernhorn - Schynige Platte (Panorama Trail) hike.


Return to Wengen after the hike via the way we came.

Trip report here.


Day 4 (7 July 2015)

Take the cable car from Wengen up to

Männlichen.


Take the short trail up to the peak of

Männlichen to enjoy the views. Do the Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg panoramic walk.

 

Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg panoramic walk.

Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg panoramic walk.


After lunch at Kleine Scheidegg, take the train to Interlaken Ost and to Brienz. Brienz is a  wood carving town on the banks of Lake Brienz or Brienzsee. Explore Brienz and cruise back to Interlaken OST by boat on Lake Brienz. Return to Wengen from Interlaken Ost.


Trip report Part 1 – Mannilichen to Kleine Scheidegg walk.

Trip report Part 2 – Visit to Brienz and lake cruise.


Day 5 (8 July 2015)

I catered some time as “to be decided”. The younger ones decided do some extreme sports i.e. Tandem Paragliding from top of Mürren down to the Lauterbrunnen valley.

Tandem Paragliding from top of Mürren down to the Lauterbrunnen valley

Tandem Paragliding from top of Mürren down to the Lauterbrunnen valley.


We combined the morning activity with a visit to the Trummelbach Falls in the afternoon and did the Lauterbrunnen valley floor hike from the Trummelbach Falls back to Lauterbrunnen village.

Lauterbrunnen valley


Trip report Part 1 – paragliding.

Trip report Part 2 – Trummelbach Falls.


Day 6 (9 July 2015)

Take the train to Grindelwald and then take the cable car to First. Do the walk from First to Balchapsee, have a picnic by the lake and return to First.

Balchapsee


From First, take cable car down to Bort station and hire Tottibikes to ride down the mountain from Bort station back to Grindelwald. 

Tottibike to ride down the mountain from Bort station back to GrindelwaldTottibike to ride down the mountain from Bort station back to Grindelwald.


Else use the cable car back to Grindelwald.

Trip report here.


Day 7 (10 July 2015)

Go up Jungfrau from Wengen via Kleine Scheidegg.


A special train ticket for the Jungfraubahn needs to be purchased to take the train from Kleine Scheidegg to the “top of Europe”. This is an expensive trip (even with the half-fare ticket) but totally worth the experience.



The young ones did tobogganing at the snow park that only opens in Summer. I did the glacier hike to the Mönchsjoch Hut and back by myself while the family spent time at the snow park.

Trip report here.


Day 8 (11 July 2015)

Goodbye to Wengen. Take the train to Zurich HB station. Leave luggage at lockers at train station.

 
Free and easy in Zurich before taking the train to Zurich Airport to catch the free shuttle bus to our hotel.
We had the option to spend some time in Luzern or Zurich on the way back to the Zurich Airport. We decided on Zurich since we had been to Luzern before.

Trip report here.


Note: our activities were based on the weather forecast for the next few days. Only do the Jungfrau trip on a clear morning.

More details of our time in Wengen (and photos!) are in the subsequent posts.


Afternote: We loved Switzerland so much that we returned to Switzerland in July 2018 for another vacation. This time we stayed a week in Zermatt and several days in Montreux, plus stopovers in Bern, Thun and Lucerne. Read  our trip overview here.

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From UK to Zurich and on to Wengen

4 July 2015

We left Heathrow/Windsor Marriott Hotel at 7.00 AM for the 25 minutes drive to Heathrow Airport. Our flight to Zurich departs at 9.30 AM and we needed some extra time to return our rental car and grab some breakfast. I was glad to see the British Airways concorde, parked outside a hanger, while waiting for our turn to take-off. This aircraft is now out of service and a reminder of the days when supersonic commercial air travel was available. Not sure when such service would return again.

 

BA712 took us to Zurich by 12:20 PM.  Instead of a mysterious crop circle, I spotted a man-made equivalent of a Swiss army knife symbol, etched on one of the fields near the airport.

Zurich has one of the best airport in the world. This is an airport where I could safely bring a specially designed, fully loaded luggage cart onto the escalators to travel between floors. Amazing! We had to queue for a short time at the Swiss Rail Ticket office to buy the Half Fare Card for 120 CHF valid for 30-days. It gives 50% off the Jungfraujoch trip and all other rail and cable cars travel in Switzerland, including the boat rides on Lake Brienz. At the same time, we also bought the tickets for the journey from the airport all the way to Wengen. With the tickets sorted out, we went to the Baggage Services in the train station to forward two large pieces of suitcases to Wengen train station. This is an excellent and highly recommended service to use. It freed us from having to lug heavy luggage up and down trains and we board the trains with only backpacks and carry-on luggage. Next thing we did before boarding the train at Zurich Airport is to buy some take-away food and drinks for the train ride.

For tourist, the recommended route to Wengen is via Luzern. We took the 13:47 train from the airport to Luzern to catch the famous Golden Pass Line service from Luzern to Interlaken Ost. The train to Interlaken Ost departed exactly as scheduled at 15.05. We had only 15 minutes to make the connections but it was sufficient time as the Swiss train runs like clockwork and we did not have any heavy luggage with us. The journey from Luzern to Interlaken Ost offered an extremely scenic and enjoyable ride. 

Sitting on the right side of the train, we passed the Sarnersee and the Lungerersee on our right and have good views into the valley on the right as we left Brunig and drop down into Meiringen.  The train reverses at Meiringen but we don't change sides as we soon reach Brienz and have the lake on our left almost all the way to Interlaken Ost. 10 minutues after arrival in Interlaken Ost, we were on another train bound for Lauterbrunnen.

Lauterbrunnen lies in the bottom of a narrow valley with Murren high up on the ridge on the right side, and Wengen high up on a ridge on the left side. Our apartment for the next one week was at Wengen. The rack railway train ride up the slopes to Wengen from Lautebrunnen took 15 minutes. All in all, our train journey from Zurich airport to Wengen took 4 hours 4 minutes. Swiss train timings, accurate to the minute! 

The Interhome office where we had to collect the leys to our rental apartment is located very close to the Wengen train station and it was easy to find with the clear instructions provided.

Wengen is an idyllic, car-free holiday resort with about 1,330 inhabitants, on top of a hill, situated at the foot of a mountain. It is on a plateau with beautiful view of the alps above it and Lauterbrunnen valley beneath. We did not need much time to explore this relatively small alpine village.

Our home for the next one week is the Apartment 8, in the Bella Vista apartment block.  The Bella Vista apartment was built in 2006 and is only 200 m from the centre of Wengen, on a slope with excellent views. Our apartment is 130 m2 and has modern and stylish furnishings: large living/dining room with open-hearth fireplace, cable TV, radio, CD-player and DVD and internet (WiFi).  

It has 3 bedrooms. 1 room with 1 double bed (1 x 160 cm,
length 200 cm). 2 rooms, each room with 2 beds (90 cm, length 200 cm). Perfect for our family of 5.

The open kitchen came with oven, dishwasher, 4 ceramic glass hob hotplates, electric coffee machine, Nespresso coffee machine.

The best of all, it has a large balcony with balcony furniture and marvellous panoramic views of the mountains.

 

This was the view that we would be seeing every morning and evening for the next week. Fantastic!Soon after check-in, we went to check out the Coop grocery store but it closed early. I was glad that we managed to buy some stuff for our breakfast from a local store, located right outside the train station. Dinner on the first day was instant noodles that we brought from home. Interhome actually provides a pre-arrival grocery service but we did not make use of it.

Eating out in Switzerland is quite expensive and having our dinners and breakfasts in our self-catering apartment is one sure way to save money that can be used to pay for more holidays! 

The sun sets at about 9 PM in summer. Time for some rest and relaxation as we had planned a long hike the next day.

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