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Day 2 of Tiger Leaping Gorge Hike from Tea Horse Guesthouse to Tina’s Guesthouse

13 September 2024

The plan for Day 2 of our Tiger Leaping Gorge hike was to walk from Tea Horse Guesthouse to Tina's Guesthouse. Tina’s Guesthouse is located in the center of the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge and is the largest and most fully-equipped hostel in the entire Tiger Leaping Gorge Scenic Area. Most people who hike the trail will either stay the night at this hostel or take public bus from there to Lijiang or Shangrila.

The distance of our hike on this day is about 9.8 km and is mostly flat until towards the end where we descended the mountain to Tina’s Guesthouse.

My son and I woke up at 7 AM hoping to see a beautiful sunrise over the mountains but the sky was cloudy. We had a leisurely breakfast of spicy noodle soup and banana pancake, coupled with nice views of the gorge. 

Sunrise at Tea Horse Guesthouse.

Korean inspired spicy noodle soup.

Delicious banana and walnut pancake at the Tea Horse Guesthouse.

 

We started our hike at 9 AM. I enjoyed the easy morning walk through the village with scenic views of corn fields, villagers’ huts and the mountains.

Corn field outside the village.

Drying harvested corn in the sun.

Good morning, Mr. Pig.

Leaving the village, we came to a fork in the road where some hikers may chose the wrong path. The correct path is the left fork with narrower path that leads uphill. There is a sign with Chinese words that is not very prominent.

Choose the left fork at this junction or you will have to backtrack or end up lost.

We continued on a mountain trail with views of the Jinsha River and the surrounding mountains.

We were the only ones on the trail.          

This part of the trail from Tea Horse Guesthouse to Halfway Guesthouse is extremely scenic. I am glad we stayed in Tea Horse Guesthouse and hiked this part of the trail in the morning. The rays from the morning sun shining though the clouds and over the mountain made the scenery so much better. 

Have to be careful on the narrow path with steep cliff.

Like the earlier part of the trail, there are stalls selling drinks, snacks and stuff along the way. Some of the stalls provided chairs to hikers to rest. It was OK to rest on these chairs even though we did not buy anything from them.

Enjoying the warm of the morning sun at a rest area.

Cosmos in bloom and enjoying the morning sun as much as we do.

Rock with the side profile of a human face.

    

One of the stalls and rest area on the trail.

The wordings on the flag says “Shan-gri-la, Tiger Leaping Gorge”.

More goats seen on the trail.

Goats blocking the path.

        Village woman came rounding up her goats. 

View of the trail ahead.

One of the most scenic parts of the trail.

Narrow switchback road leading up to the Bendiwan Village where Halfway Guesthouse is located.

Appreciating one of the deepest gorges in the world at a maximum depth of 3,790 meters from river to mountain peak.

View of the Bendiwan Village.

We arrived at Bendiwan village and Halfway Guesthouse at about 11 AM. Halfway Guesthouse is one of the originals in the valley and most well-known. There are quite a few construction of new guesthouses taking place. In the years to come, this place would be overrun by tourists who will come by cars and maybe even tour buses without any need to hike.

In fact, this is already happening on a small scale today. People could travel by cars using the narrow switchback road we saw to Halfway Guesthouse to have lunch We actually saw paid parking lots next to Halfway Guesthouse!

Entering Halfway Guesthouse where we will take a break.

Halfway Guesthouse is popular place for an overnight stay for those doing the 2-day hike. We stayed at Tea Horse Guesthouse because we were not abe to book a room at Halfway Guesthouse.

Like Tea House Guesthouse, there is a big terrace overlooking the gorge and has splendid views of the mountains.

The cafe, named Tigerbucks, served good ice coffee and cakes,

There were many people at the terrace posing for photos. We had to wait for our turn to take photos at the terrace with the iconic H A L F W A Y signage.    

Iconic terrace at Halfway Guesthouse.

We also went to check out and use the toilets which has a nice view of the mountains too. 

Loo with a view. Typical toilet design (a drain and bucket of water to flush) in the rural areas.

From Halfway Guesthouse, we continued our hike on a paved road for a while.

  Paved road leading out from the village.

This part of the trail is busier compared to the earlier section. Some hikes on a shorter 1 day hike may choose to start their hike from here.

Many hikers on this part of the trail from Halfway Guesthouse to the waterfall.      

The path continues along the gorge and we soon saw a beautiful waterfall after rounding a bend in the mountain.

We have to walk across the waterfall, over water flowing though the rocks and stones beneath our feet.

Tread carefully, look out for slippery rocks and don’t slip over the side!

It looks dangerous but is actually quite safe.

Further up, there is a smaller waterfall.

Scrambling past rocks across a small waterfall.

Once past the two waterfall, the trail is mostly downhill, with some parts pretty steep and narrow.

Steep and narrow path on the way down.

     By now we have aching knees as we descended towards Tina’ Guesthouse that is visible below us.     

Our arrival at Tina’s Guesthouse.

We arrived at Tina’s Guesthouse at 2 PM. Overall, it has taken us about 5 hours to hike from Tea Horse Guesthouse to Tina’s, including an hour break at Halfway Guesthouse.

        Entrance to Tina’s Guesthouse.

For those who have more time, there are trails from Tina Guesthouse to the Middle Rapids of the Jinsha River where it is said that a tiger once jumped across the river, hence the name. It would take about 2 to 3 hours to hike down and up the steep cliffs from the vehicular road down to the river bank.

We had our lunch at Tina’s Guesthouse. Here, we met the same solo hiker whom we met at Naxi Guesthouse on Day 1. He told us he had made it down to the Jinsha River. Unlike him, we had to forego this since we do not have time (and energy) to do this on the same day. Instead, we will have a close look at the raging Jinsha River at the Upper part of the gorge. This is where most visitors on group tours will go when they visit the Tiger Leaping Gorge.

On the way to the Upper Gorge, we made a brief stop at an observation deck to view the Jinsha River at the Middle Gorge.

Observation deck at the Middle Gorge area.

View of the Jinsha River at the middle part of the Tiger Leaping Gorge. We could see the steep cliffs leading down from the vehicular road to the river.

One last photo to mark the end of our hiking adventure at Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Next post: Our visit to the upper part (touristy) of the Tiger Leaping Gorge.

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Visiting the Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge

13 September 2024

Tiger Leaping Gorge is one of Yunnan’s must see sights located between Haba Snow Mountain (5,396 meters) in Shangri-La and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (5,596 meters) in Lijiang. Around 15 kilometers in length, the gorge is located where the Jinsha River passes between the two mountains in a series of rapids under steep 2,000 meters cliffs.

Tiger Leaping Gorge has three sections: the Upper Gorge, Middle Gorge, and Lower Gorge. The Upper Gorge and Middle Gorge are recommended for their stunning landscapes. The Lower Gorge is usually not recommended due to its plain scenery.

The Upper gorge area offers glorious view of the rapids, torrential current of the Jinsha River as the water squeezes it way through the narrow pathway between the two mountains. Legend says that in order to escape from a hunter, a tiger jumped across the river at the narrowest point at the Upper Gorge area, hence giving the gorge its name.

Statue of a tiger, next to the roaring Jinsha River, can be seen at the Upper Gorge Area. In fact, there are a couple of statues of tiger at this area.

Because it is a tourist site built by the authorities with available road, wooden steps down to the river, secure guardrails and take about 2 hours to visit, most visitors will visit this area when they travel between Lijiang and Shangri-la or visit this as a day trip from either city.

For us, we came to Tiger Leaping Gorge to experience one of China’s best hikes on the high mountain trail on the Haba Snow Mountain side of the gorge. We did the 2D/1N hike from Qiaotou (Upper Gorge) to Tina’s Guesthouse (Middle Gorge).

See these posts for our 2D/1N hiking adventure:

Day 1 of Tiger Leaping Gorge Hike

Day 2 of Tiger Leaping Gorge Hike

We were initially planning to do the half day challenging hike from Tina’s Guesthouse down to the Jinsha River at the Middle Gorge. But plans change and we had to go with Plan B which was to come to the touristy Upper Gorge area to experience the roaring Jinsha River.

Our driver drove us from Tina’s Guesthouse after we completed our hike and alighted us at the large car park as seen in the photo below.

View of the Jinsha River at the Upper Gorge area as seen from the high mountain trail on Day 1 of our hike.

To get from the entrance at higher ground down to the river, we had to walk down about 1,000 steps on a wooden pathway. Getting back up later from the river to the entrance may be a struggle for some. For those who wants to avoid the stairs, there are 2-way escalator tickets available for sale.                         

Preview of the Jinsha River as we walked down the stairs. We could hear the roar of the rapids as we made our descend.

Our guide told us the bridge and road on the opposite bank is now unused and reconstruction is taking place.

There are well built observation decks with safety barriers along the river bank that allow visitors to get close to the roaring river.

This is the narrowest part of the river and start of the rapids. The river was quieter and smooth flowing further upriver.

The Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge is the narrowest section, and in the center of the river is a huge rock called Tiger Leaping Rock.

Imagining how the tiger could have made it across the river using the big rock in the middle.   

Like most tourist places, there are stalls selling drinks, snacks, souvenirs and also amulets that visitors can buy to hang on racks next to the river. There are also people offering photography (for a fee) with the tiger statue.

Amulets that visitors can buy to leave their wishes.

Observation decks on the shores of the roaring river.  

The noisy turbulent water forcing its way over the large obstructing boulders in this deep gorge is a breath-taking sight!

Another statue of a tiger on the opposite bank.

Although this place is a little more touristy, it was definitely worth a visit to marvel at the beauty and power of nature. A good way to complete our hike and visit to Tiger Leaping Gorge.

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Evening in Shangri-La’s Dukezong Ancient Town

13 September 2024

Shangri-La is only 200 km north of Lijiang and is well connected to Lijiang by car or train. It is worthwhile to spend some time in this city when visiting Yunnan. For us, we travelled to Shangri-La by car after our overnight night at Tiger Leaping Gorge.

We arrived at Shangri-La at about 6.30 PM, having travelled by car from Tiger Leaping Gorge. As we drove in the city from the South, we saw a large white stupa from our car. A stupa is a dome-shaped building erected as a Buddhist shrine highlighting the fact that the people in this area are pre-dominantly Buddhists.

The iconic Harmony Tower in Shangri-La. Our guide told us there is a smaller stupa within the large white stupa.

Shangri-La used to be called Zhongdian (中甸) but the name was changed to match the mystical place James Hilton talked about in his famous novel Lost Horizon. Although Shangri-La is part of Yunnan, visiting Shangri-La is like visiting Tibet with lots of Tibetan temples, Tibetan people and a chance to experience Tibetan culture and food. There are 13 ethnic groups living harmoniously on this land and the main group is Tibetan. Our guide who accompanied us for our hike in Tiger Leaping Gorge lives in Shangri-La and is an ethnic Tibetan.

One of the best places to visit and stay in Shangri-La is at the 1,300 years old Dukezong Ancient Town. Dukezong is one of the oldest parts of the region and was first constructed in the 7th century as a stopping point on the Tea Horse trade route.

Unfortunately, a fire in 2014 destroyed a large part of the town, so what we see today is a newly reconstructed “old town”. Although the “body” could be new and reconstructed but the “soul and spirit” of the town remains. There is still plenty for first time visitors like us to experience.

Where we stayed in Shangri-la

Our hotel at Shangri-La is the 5th Meteorite Lightyear Hotel located in the northwest corner of Dukezong ancient city, just next to the North gate which is the main gateway of the ancient city.

A large black meteorite was displayed in the lobby. The signage said:

“According to legend, 5 meteorites representing courage, wisdom, love, health and luck once landed in Shangri-la. The first four were kept by local celebrities while the fifth one representing luck was missing.  Local venerable elders once said that people who has seen this lucky meteorite and prayed piously in front of it would be blessed by the gods. Decades later, the fifth meteorite reappeared in China and has been preserved in Dukezong Romantic Village sine 2017. To carry forward the good luck of the fifth Meteorite and covey its blessings to tourists, the 5th Meteorite Hotels and Resorts is established.”

Is this a replica or the real fifth meteorite in the glass case?

This hotel has very local Tibetan decor. 

We had a large room located on the second floor. Since Shangri-La is located at a high altitude above 3,000 meters, people who are not used to this altitude could suffer from altitude sickness. Hence, the room which came with oxygen supply which was a bonus.

The large room is equipped with oxygen regulator and a heating humidifier.

 

Dinner at Three’s Brother Cafe

From our hotel, it was a short walk to the main square of the Dukezong where we heard music and saw people dancing.

We had told our guide that we wanted to try the local cuisine. He brought us to the highly raved Three Brother’s Cafe that serves Western and Tibetan food. 

Entrance to the Three Brother’s Cafe. The restaurant is on the second floor.

The host speaks English and provided us with the English menu. We cannot come to Shangri-La and not try the yak meat. The yak or hairy ox (牦牛) is a large domesticated wild ox with shaggy hair used in Tibet as a pack animal and for its milk, meat, and hide. 

We ordered the following dishes:

Sizzling yak meat on a hot plate for 58 RMB. Yak meat taste like lean beef.

Three Brother’s Vegetable Balls with Sauce for 38 RMB. The menu included an option for these without the sauce. This is a tasty dish with delicious sauce.

Tibetan Yak Momo for 48 RMB. The menu included Yak Cheese Momo as well, available for the same price.

The yak momo is like the steamed pork buns we had in Singapore except the meat is yak instead of pork.

Our host served us some home-made chilli sauce that went very well with the food.

The restaurant provided beautiful tableware that came hygienically wrapped in paper envelopes.

Our guide recommends that we try their local Tibetan wheat beer. We ordered three bottles to taste: namely the Pale Ale, Songa and Fat Dolma, each with different alcohol content and prices. 

From left to right: Songa, Fat Dolma and Tibetan Pale Ale.

One of the highlights that occur in the evening within the old town is the folk dances that take place every evening at the town square known as Sifang Street. Local residents gather to perform Tibetan folk dances, holding hands, forming circles, and following the lead dancers. Anyone, including visitors, could join in.

The cafe is located next to the town square and we could sit in the terrace overlooking the streets and watch the people enjoying their dance in the town square below us.

The cafe has a terrace with views of the street and the town square.

We watched the locals dancing in the town square while waiting for the orders to the prepared.

Excellent food and beer at this cafe.

After a long day hiking at Tiger Leaping Gorge and travelling to Shangri-la, we had a relaxing time and excellent meal at the Three Brother’s Cafe. The food is good and reasonably priced. In fact, we came back to this cafe for a yak hotpot dinner the next day.

Exploring Dukezong Ancient Town at night.

After our meal, we had time to wander and explore the town on our own. Shops were still opened and we saw many yak products and souvenirs for sale.

Stall selling Grilled Durians from South-East Asia. This is not the way we consume durians in South East Asia. 

Food Street in the old town for those looking for local street food which included yak meat on skewers.

Interesting souvenirs include the small hand-held golden prayers wheels, bells and even traditional Tibetan swords!

Prayer wheels are used by many Tibetans everyday. According to Tibetan Buddhism, the more mantras are chanted, the more devotion to the Buddha is expressed, and the suffering of reincarnation can be freed. Therefore, in addition to orally reciting the prayers, Tibetan people put the mantras into the prayer wheels. They believe that every turn of the wheel will have the same meritorious effect as reading the sutra once. The prayer wheel should be turned clockwise.   

We saw a white stupa in the old town with prayer wheels all round. This stupa was not destroyed in the fire of 2014 but some of the surrounding buildings were.Stupa in the middle of Dukezong Old Town.

The prayer wheel should be turned clockwise.

     

Guishan Park and the Giant Prayer Wheel

We found our way to Guishan (龟山) Park or Turtle Hill, using maps that are displayed in the town. Since the weather was good, we wanted to see the famous Giant Prayer Wheel of Shangri-La. It was easy to find since it is over 21 meters high and shines like a golden beacon in the night sky.

Entrance to Guishan Park is from Moonlight Square (月光廣場). It is another place in town where locals do their nightly dancing. Also located in the square is the Red Army Long March Museum with some statues of Tibetan monks with soldiers of the Long March outside. The dancing had already finished and the museum was already closed by nightfall.

We took a short flight of stairs up to the Guishan Park. At over 3,200 meters elevation above sea level, what looked like easy stairs to climb was quite exhausting due to the thin air. We were also quite tired since we had spent a long day hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge.

On top of the stairs, we came to the Big Buddha Temple (大佛寺). Big Buddha Temple (大佛寺) on Guishan.

Walking in a clockwise circle on top of the hill, we saw another temple building, adorn with prayer flags in front.

Beautifully lit Buddhist Temple on Guishan Park.

Colourful prayer flags could be seen all round.    

We finally came to the Giant Prayer Wheel that had become a famous tourist attraction in Shangri-La. Built in 2002, the 21-meter-high gold-plated bronze prayer wheel, weighing 60,000 kilograms, is the second largest of its kind in Asia.

A must-see attraction in Shangri-La.

Outside surface of the Prayer Wheel.

The outside surface is decorated with images of Buddhist deities and symbols. I spotted what looks like the Songzanlin Monastery on it.    Is this a picture of Songzanlin Monastery?

Like many prayer wheels, the Giant Prayer Wheels contains millions of traditional six-syllable “Om Mani Padme Hum” mantra inside, plus other relics.

Locals and visitors were seen turning the prayer wheel in the clockwise direction. One circle of every turn is equivalent of 1.24 million chanting. Anyone, including non-Buddhists, could join in to spread goodwill and blessings.

Many hands needed to work together to turn this 60-ton prayer wheel. We joined in too.

On this night, there are many willing pairs of hands waiting to turn the wheel. As one person completes the task, another person would swiftly take his place and the wheel was kept spinning.

Guishan Park is also a good place to have a panoramic view of Shangri-La. We could see the contrast between the Dukezong Ancient Town and the modern high-rise area of the city.

Panoramic view of Shangri-La city.

After seeing the Giant Prayer Wheel, we made our way back to our hotel. We walked past the Sifang Square where we had seen the locals dancing earlier during dinner. It was now quiet, with the moon over it.  

Sifang Square in Dukezong Old Town.

On our way back to the hotel, located next to the north gate of the old town.

Dukezong seems like a nice town to explore. We will have time to explore it again the next day with our guide.

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