Day 1 of Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡) Hike from Qiaotou to Tea Horse Guesthouse

12 September 2024

Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡) is a scenic gorge on the Jinsha River, a primary tributary of the upper Yangtze River.  Around 15 kilometres in length, the gorge is located between the 5,596 metres Jade Dragon (Yulong) Snow Mountain and the 5,396 metres Haba Snow Mountain with steep cliffs on both sides.

At a maximum depth of approximately 3,790 meters from river to mountain peak, Tiger Leaping Gorge is one of the deepest and most spectacular river canyons in the world.

Legend says the name comes from a hunted tiger escaping by jumping across the river at the narrowest point (about 25 metres wide), using a rock in the middle. There are several rocks in the middle of the long Jinsha River. So there are more than one places where the tiger could have done its amazing feat.

The Tiger Leaping Gorge hike, on the high trail on the Haba Snow Mountain side of the gorge, is considered one of China's best hikes for its adventurous routes, fantastic views, flora and fauna, appealing geological features like waterfalls, and isolation.

Along the Tiger Leaping Gorge hiking trail with views of the Jinsha River below and the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain on the opposite side of the steep cliffs.

Located in between Lijiang (2 hours' driving) and Shangri-La (3 hours' driving) we included this hike when travelling from Lijiang to Shangri-La.

We did the most popular 2-day trek from Qiaotou to Tina's Guesthouse. The trail is about 22 km long, half way up Haba Snow Mountain, usually taking 1½ days with overnight in a local guesthouse on the high mountain trail. The hike could be physically demanding at times but the rewards are worth the effort.

Although it is not really necessary to hire a local guide for the hike, we had one included as part of the private tour of Yunnan that we had booked from a local travel agency. So why not.     

We met our guide for the hike at Qiaotou, after a 2 hour drive from Lijiang. After paying the entrance fee at the ticket booth just up the road from Qiaotou, our driver drove us to the trailhead. Those who came by public transport would have to negotiate a boring a few kilometers of road walking up to the trailhead.

We started our hike at about 11 AM.

My wife with the local guide. The small signage in blue marks the starting point of the Tiger Leaping Gorge hike at Qiaotou.

There were a couple of local men with their mules loitering at the start point. They asked if we wanted to ride their mules up the mountain.

No thanks. We came to hike, not to ride a mule.

As we started our hike, one of the men followed behind us, hoping that we would make use of their mule when we get tired along the way.

Ting, ting, ting.

We could hear the bell on the mule behind us as we trekked up the hill.

Initial part of the trail provides views of the  bridges across the Jingsha River at Qiaotou village.    

The mule following behind us put some pressure on us to walk a little faster.

The initial part of the trail was a gradual ascend in open terrain. We saw goats grazing on the slopes next to the trail.

Although it was a cloudy day, we were soon hot and sweaty from our exertions. Our guide politely informed the man with the mule that his service was not needed but he continued to follow us. Maybe the sight of us drenched in perspiration and struggling up the trail gave him some hope.        

Local guy with his mule. He was quite nice and did not really bother us.

There are stalls along the trail. Manned by the enterprising local villagers, there are drinks, snacks and even bamboo hiking poles for sale. Since we only brought a pair of hiking poles for the three of us, we purchased a bamboo pole for my son (the fittest person in my group). Cost of the bamboo pole was 10 RMB. We overhead the vendor telling our guide that he usually sells it for 30 RMB but since our guide is local, he gave us a discount. 

Taking a rest with views of the mountain across the gorge.

After climbing for about a kilometer, gaining around 200m of elevation, the trail levels off. We entered into a forest with the much needed shade.

Flat terrain through the forest after the initial climb.

We soon saw a small village where the Naxi Guesthouse is located. This was our planned stop for lunch.  

First sight of a village on the trail.

The Naxi Guesthouse where we planned to have lunch is located in this village.

We followed the trail down to the village, walking past cornfields, cow sheds and chicken coops at the edge of the village. The man with the mule also disappeared into the village.

Walking through the corn field at the edge of the village. The plants are matured with many large corns on the stem.

It was nice to experience the rural country vibes. 

Green coloured walnut fruits on a tree just outside the village. The edible part is actually the flesh inside the seed.

Our guide pointed out a tree laden with green walnut fruits. I would not have recognised that this is a walnut tree by the fruits. Walnuts are single-seed stone fruits.

There were a few fallen brown walnuts fruits on the ground. Our guide picked one up, cracked it open to show us the familiar looking walnut stone inside. With brute force of his hands, he cracked the nut open and let us taste the edible part inside.

He told us the walnut fruits would be ready for picking in a few weeks time.

We arrived at the Naxi Guesthouse at 1.10 PM. It had taken us slightly over 2 hours to get from the start of the trail to Naxi Guesthouse.

Walking up to the entrance of Naxi Guesthouse.

Beautiful courtyard with dining tables at the Naxi Guesthouse.

This guesthouse is a good place for rest and refreshment along the hiking trail.

Though the Tiger Leaping Gorge is one of China's popular trails, it is not crowded. We only met one other hiker at this part of the trail and he was having his lunch when we arrived.

The food served in the guesthouse are simple. Both Western and Chinese dishes are in the menu. After a decent meal, we made sure to use the toilets before continuing with our hike. There are few toilets along the trail!

It is somewhat strange that there are no proper maps of the Tiger Leaping Gorge hiking trails in the internet. There is a good hand-painted map at Naxi Guesthouse that gave an overview of the journey we had taken earlier and what to expect ahead.      

Hand-painted map of the hiking route at Naxi Guesthouse.

The next section of the trail from Naxi Guesthouse to Tea-horse Guesthouse is the toughest part. This section has a steep switchback trail called the 28 Bends where hikers have to zigzag our way up with 500+ meters of elevation.   

Gradual ascend from Naxi Guesthouse to the start of the 28 Bends.

There was about 30 minutes of hiking from the Naxi Guesthouse before we arrived at the start of the 28 Bends.  

There was a nice rest-stop just before the 28 Bends where we could get a drink and soak in the views.

Chairs are provided for us to enjoy our drinks with a nice view.

 All ready for the challenge ahead!

Starting point of the 28 Bends.

Although the trail is steep, the bends are small and the distance between two bends is very short. I started counting the number of bends we took but soon lost count.

Going up the 28 Bends.

Huff and puff up the 28 Bends.

Our guide stopped and encouraged us to rest and have a drink when we felt out of breath. Even the fittest will feel the strain.

       

Almost completing the 28 Bends. We could see a red flag slightly ahead.

It took roughly 45 minutes to complete this section and our effort were rewarded with beautiful scenery.

Have to tread carefully to the edge of the vertical cliff to have a peek at the Jinsha River below us.

There is a lookout point located on the edge of steep cliffs that jut out of the mountain. To get down to the lookout point, we have to pay a toll of 10 RMB per person. This toll is collected by the local villagers who erected some safety barriers and maintained the path. We paid the toll and spent some time taking photos at the lookout point.

Path down to the lookout point.

Touching the clouds. 

A group photo at the lookout point. Note the safety barriers put up by the local villagers.

After the 28 Bends, the trail is relatively level with a little up and downs.

At one point, we could see the Upper Gorge area with a large rock in the middle of the Jinsha River. This is one of the places where the tiger is supposed to have made its life-saving leap across the raging river. Most tourist groups visiting Tiger Leaping Gorge would be brought to this place. We planned to come to this place to see the raging river after we had completed our hike.

Bird’s eye view of the Upper Gorge area where most tourists to Tiger Leaping Gorge would visit.

After another 30 minutes of hiking along the mountain trail, we finally saw a tiger. We cannot come to Tiger Leaping Gorge and not see a tiger.

A stone tiger along the trail.

Awesome scenery of the gorge between both mountains.

Saw a herd of goats as we approach another village where the Tea Horse Guesthouse is located.

Small waterfall just before Tea Horse Guesthouse.

We arrived at Tea Horse Guesthouse slightly before 6 PM. It had taken us about 3.5 hours to hike this section of the trail from Naxi Guesthouse. 

Entrance to Tea Horse Guesthouse where we will be staying overnight.

The guesthouse has a roof terrace overlooking the gorge and offers splendid views of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. We rested on the roof terrace of the guesthouse while our guide went to do the check-in formalities on our behalf.

Cafe at the roof terrace.

Muddy pants of the person who had a little slip along the trail.

We were assigned a family room located on the second floor next to the main building. All rooms have nice mountain views along the corridor.

View of the roof terrace and cafe from our room. The restaurant where we took our meals are below the terrace.

Our bedroom for three persons. Beds is fitted with electric blankets.

The room is very spacious but not so well furnished. It is lacking chairs which should have been provided. We have to sit on the beds or on the bench outside while waiting for our turn to take a hot shower.             

     

This potted plant looked like a little poodle.     

Taking time-lapse photos of the clouds on the mountain while waiting for our turn to shower. 

View of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from the corridor to our room, located on the second floor.

One of the highlights of our stay at the guesthouse is watching the golden rays of the sun lighting up the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in front of us as the sun sets behind the Haba Snow Mountain.

Best place to watch the light show is at the roof terrace.

I helped a couple take a photo using his DSLR.       

   

Our guide helped to take some family photos for us.      

The restaurant served some great food. The menu included both Western and Asian dishes. We actually ordered Korean dishes for dinner.

We should be tired after a long hike but no. My son and I took the opportunity of the darkness in the mountain to practice astrophotography using our new Samsung S24 and iphone 15 after midnight when most of the lights in the guesthouse were turned off.

Stars over the Jade Dragon SNow Mountain.

The sky was not very clear on this night but it was a good first attempt to try something new.