23 July 2018
The 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk is one of the best hikes in the mountains around Zermatt that promises stunning views of the snow-capped mountains and five mountain lakes, hence the name. There are opportunities to see and photograph the Matterhorn reflected on the surface of three of the lakes, depending on the weather, wind, position of clouds and, most of all, your luck.
The morning of our second day in Zermatt promised better weather compared to our first day. At least we managed to see the tip of the Matterhorn from our apartment at day break although it was slightly veiled by clouds that drifted slowly by its east and north faces.
First rays of the rising sun striking the tip of the Matterhorn.
The Matterhorn shrouded in its “bridal veil”.
The 5-Seenweg (Trail 11) trail starts from Blauherd (2,571 m ASL) and will bring hikers to the lakes of Stellisee, Grindjisee, Grünsee, Moosjisee and Leisee before ending at Sunnegga (2,288 m ASL). Each of these mountain lakes is very different in terms of shape, colour, character and size. With luck, reflection of Matterhorn could be seen in Stellisee, Grindjisee and Leisee and swimming is possible at Grünsee and Leisee. The hike is 9.3 km in distance according to the hiking trail guide and rated as “moderate” in terms of difficulty.
Funicular from Zermatt to Sunnegga.
We took the underground funicular from Zermatt to Sunnegga. At Sunnegga, we came out from the station for a quick look-around and photos before continuing on by gondola for a short ride to Blauherd.
View of the mountains from Sunnegga.
Para-glider above a mountain restaurant in Sunnegga.
Plenty of wild alpine flowers in summer.
A wooden cross at Sunnegga, with the mountains and cloud- covered Matterhorn in the back.
The views of the surrounding mountains are stunning from Sunnegga. The ride on the gondola to Blauherd was quite a thrill too.
View from the gondola to Blauherd.
We were also awed by the sight of a few hikers walking up a steep trail from Sunnegga to Blauherd. This trail is called the Murmelweg or Marmot Trail (Trail 8) and promises views of marmots that live in burrows on the mountain side. A much easier way to spot these groundhog-like critters was from the cable cars which we did.
It is good to use the restrooms at cable car stations before starting the hike. Sun-screen lotion and hats are recommended as the summer sun is scorching at high altitude and it is easy to get sun-burned although we don’t feel its heat.
The walk from Blauherd to Stellisee
The first lake to visit from Blauherd is the popular Stellisee, where reflections of the Matterhorn on its surface are Instagramers’ favourites.
We did not follow the official yellow sign-posted route to Stellisee. This route is on a track that is accessible by vehicles and mountain bikes. Instead, we followed the handwritten signs pointing to Stellisee and walked up a slope just outside the Blauherd Station to a footpath that ran almost parallel to the paved road. It was easy to spot this trail as other hikers before us were already on it. This alternate route had no vehicles and offered slightly better views since it was above the wider vehicular track.
The alternate route to Stellisee from Blauherd. We took this footpath instead of the paved road below.
There were also many summer alpine flowers along the footpath. A photographer’s delight.
The morning was not so windy and we could see nice reflections of the snow-capped mountains on the surface of Stellisee. There were still gentle ripples from the wind and splashing fish occasionally disturbed the lake’s surface.
Nice reflections of the snow-capped mountains on the surface of Stellisee.
Do I look like a action-figure, standing on this round metal cover?
A good picture of Matterhorn reflected on the surface of the lake could be shot on the far side of this lake. That was where most people and photographers were gathered. Stellisee is popular with tour groups since it is relatively easy to access from Zermatt.
Walking to the far side of Stellisee.
It was not a good day to view or photograph the Matterhorn from Stellisee. The tip of the shark-tooth shape mountain was covered in clouds, although we could still enjoy fabulous mountain scenery.
The weather was nice and cool. For those who like nature and the outdoors, Stellisee is good location for a picnic. We were in hats and jackets to protect us from the occasional cold wind from the mountains and the sun that was roasting us slowly but surely.
The Walk from Stellisee to Grindjisee.
The next lake along the 5-Lakes Walk is the Grindjisee. We followed a yellow sign post pointing to Grindjisee and took a steep trail that zigzag down a steep cliff. We later found that this path is a “short-cut” and not the official 5-Seenweg route.
Starting of the switchback trail down the side of this mountain to Grindjisee.
For those not used to heights or walking along narrow paths with a steep slope on the side, this trail could be a little daunting at some places. Yet, we saw two mountain bikers riding down this trail.
Watching anxiously at two young mountain bikers making their way down the same trail.
There were many people having picnic by the lake. The water of this lake is clear and teeming with small fishes.
Grindjisee is a beautiful lake surrounded by larch trees and flora.
Walking to the far end of the lake where it is a good spot to view the Matterhorn.
We made our way to some big rocks on the far side of the lake from the Matterhorn. This would be the best spot to capture views of the Matterhorn reflected on the surface of the lake.
Matterhorn in between the larch trees but partially covered in clouds.
Once again, the shy mountain was having its north face covered in a veil of cloud that seemed to move a little.
We took cover under the shade of the huge rock to have a snack and waited for the clouds to move. Others like us were also camping around with hope.
Waiting for the clouds to clear at the Grindjisee so we could take some nice photos.
We had some entertainment from a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel that belonged to a passing hiker.
The smart and brave dog fetching his toy from the surface of the lake.
I explored the area for better vantage points to shoot Matterhorn and the lake. Although the sky was not totally cloudy, the clouds seemed to like the north face of the Matterhorn.
A nice spot for photographing the Matterhorn and Grindjisee. If only the clouds on the face of the Matterhorn would move away.
The tip of the shark tooth shaped mountain appeared briefly, giving a ray of hope to the admirers that had gathered.
After an hour of lingering, we decided to move on and not wait for the impossible on this day.
The Walk from Grindjisee to Grünsee.
Grünsee means “green lake” and it is located across the valley from where Stellisee and Grindjisee were located. We actually saw this green lake while hiking down from Stellisee to Grindjisee.
From Grindjisee to Grünsee along the 5-Seenweg.
To get to the green lake, we followed a wide gravel road downhill, crossed a bridge over a stream running down the glacier valley and then went trek uphill again.
Thousands of tadpoles in a pool by the river that we crossed on the way to Grünsee.
By now, the sun was bearing down on us. This summer was unusually warm in Switzerland. Grünsee is one of the lakes along the 5 Lakes Walk that one could swim in and looked very inviting.
Grünsee.
Families and their dogs were seen relaxing by the lake. The waters looked tempting but we were not prepared for a swim in a mountain lake.
Lunch at the Ze Seewjinu Mountain Lodge
The Ze Seewjinu Mountain Lodge was a good place, if not the only place, to stop for lunch near Grünsee.
Traditional Rosti with bacon and fried eggs.
This restaurant served excellent local mountain food and offered excellent mountain views. We enjoyed the food and had a good rest at this restaurant and most of all, a chance to use the restrooms!
Moosjisee
A trail behind the restaurant led us down a steep path to the next lake. We crossed a small bridge with a cascade before taking a gentle level path to Moosjisee.
Compared to the other lakes, Moosjisee is not attractive at all. The small lake is milky in colour, a sign that the waters are fed from melting glaciers. It looked like the “runt” in terms of beauty, compared to the other lakes along this hike. It is used as a reservoir with buildings (pumping stations perhaps) next to it.
Moojisee, the lake with a milky look.
Walking from Moosjisee to Leisee
The trail that we took to Moosjisee continued past the lake and down towards the hamlet of Findeln. To get to Leisee (and Sunnega), we turned right just after Moosjisee and “huff and puff “ our way up a hill.
On the trail from Moosjisee to Leisee with views of Findeln and alpine scenery on our left.
The hamlet of Findeln with its world famous mountain restaurants.
The trail soon levelled off until towards the end where we had to “huff and puff” again up a trail to Leisee.
Leisee is accessible in 10 minutes on foot down from the Sunnegga Station. Hence it is a popular place for families to enjoy a swim, picnic, BBQ by a mountain lake with views of the alpine landscape and Matterhorn.
Leisee, with Sunnegga Station on the hill behind.
One could swim in Leisee, with views of the alpine landscape and Matterhorn.
If conditions are right, Leisee would be THE place to shoot a photo of you swimming in a lake with the Matterhorn and its reflection on the surface.
It was too windy and cloudy for THAT shot.
The best thing to do for us was to rest, relax and do some people watching. A group of hikers on the opposite bank actually took off their clothes and went skinny dipping in the lake!
Those that prefer to keep their clothes on or not get wet could play with a raft that was strung across the small lake. They just need to get on the raft and use the rope to pull themselves across for some cheap thrill and fun.
Leisee was the last lake on the 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk.
From Leisee or Sunnegga, there is an option to walk back to Zermatt along the Gourmetweg (Trail 6) passing through Findeln and Ried. The hamlet of Findeln has a few world famous mountain restaurants that are worth trying.
We were too tired on this day to attempt this option. We took the funicular from Sunnegga down to Zermatt and cooked our own dinner in our apartment instead.