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Taiwan Day 2 (Part 3) – Puli Wine Brewery and 18 °C Chocolate factory


14 December 2011

From Sun Moon Lake’s Ita Thao, our taxi driver took the round-the-lake road northwards towards Puli. At the Peacock Garden, he left the road and took a shortcut through some narrow single track roads to Puli. We got to see some back-country roads and villages on the way. We left Ita Shao at about 3 PM and arrived at 18 °C chocolate factory in Puli, about 30 minutes later. Here we sampled and bought some handmade chocolates. We also had some delicious ice cream.

18C ice cream


We made a stop at the Puli winery where we went through the visitor centre and took some pictures.

Puli Winery - earthen pots


Puli winery inside


Puli winery


The wine is made from rice, fermented in the earthen urns for many years before bottling. We sampled both a 1 year old and a 20 year old wine which was yellowish in colour. The guy who offered us the wine must be quite disappointed by our reaction to the bitter and strange taste of his prized, 20-year old wine. 

Puli winery bottles

After the winery, we went to Misty Villa Minsu (Bed and Breakfast) in Cingjing where our host Nita was waiting for us.

Cingjing is a small town high up in the Taiwan Central Mountain, about 1750 metres above sea level and along Taiwan’s Central Cross-Island Highway that connects the west of Taiwan to the east.  We planned to stay two nights here before another taxi would bring us across the Central Mountain (about 3700m above sea level), through the Taroko National Park to the seaside town of Hua Lien on the eastern coast of Taiwan.

Misty Villa Minsu provides both breakfast and dinner, in addition to the accommodation. Dinner was served after our check-in and I must say that the food (especially the vegetables) tasted better in the highlands, than in town.

After dinner, D and I went for a walk to check out the surroundings. Misty Villa is located near a plaza with a few restaurants, Starbuck, City Cafe and 7-11 and this is the reason why I choose to stay here, over other similar minsu. There was not much to do after dark in Cingjing, so it was family bonding time watching TV in our room and surfing the internet with our laptops.

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Taiwan Day 3 (Part 1) – Cingjing and Green Green Grassland


15 December 2011

Misty Villa Minsu (B&B) is located in Cingjing, about 1720m above sea level. I have booked a spacious Quad room with 2 King-sized beds for 2 nights. Our room, number 103, is located above the dining area, faces east and offers a nice view of the mountains.

I was the first person to wake up. The best time for take photos is in the early morning before the light gets too harsh. It was cloudy, so no brilliant sunrise that I had hoped to see.  In any case, it is not too big a disappointment as the view of the cloud-covered mountains was even better. 

Close up view of mountain from Misty VillaClose – up shot of the cloud covered mountains taken at Misty Villa.


I set up the tripod to take a series of photos using my DSLR to create this panorama of the view from the room’s balcony.

Panorama of view from room in Misty VillaView from room in Misty Villa.


Misty VillaEntrance to our room.

Our original plan for today was to go for walks at the Green Green Grassland to view the sheep, just enjoy the fresh mountain air, and maybe have tea at the Old England in the afternoon. Green Green Grassland (what a name!) is an area in Cingjing where sheep roam free over undulating grassland, and visitors can ride horses, watch sheep shearing show and other performances in the weekend.

Misty Villa provided free transfer to Green Green Grassland after breakfast and our host, Nita, also sells the entrance ticket at a discount. The clouds were rolling in and there was a slight drizzle but we decided to proceed anyway. Nita loan us 4 umbrellas. Fortunately, the drizzle stopped after some time and we were able to enjoy the rest of the day without needing the umbrellas.


It was quite nice to have the opportunity to shoot some photographs of the sheep and landscape with the mist rolling in. For a hobbyist photographer, this was more interesting than taking pictures of sheep and mountains on a clear sunny, blue sky day.

Cingjing Green Green Grassland

 Cingjing1

Besides the sheep, Cingjing offers excellent views of the mountains, fresh air and a “top of the world” feeling.

Cingjing

Cingjing


Boardwalks were constructed to allow easy access for visitors through the undulating landscapes and there are pavilions and rest points as well. The sheep are free ranging and would come up close for a feed. Or a photo.

Cingjing Green Green Grassland - sheep coming for a photo

Cingjing Green Green Grassland - whose droppings

We had to watch our steps as there were sheep droppings scattered all over. Surprisingly, there were no unpleasant smell.

We spotted a couple having their wedding photos taken with the sheep.

Wedding at Green Green Grassland Cingjing

This place really gives you a feeling that you are in a European countryside and not in Taiwan. There was even a windmill. A bit out of place, I think.

Cingjing Green Green Grassland - windmill (2)


As this was a weekday, there was no sheep shearing performance scheduled. Anyway, my boys were more interested in swinging their umbrellas like lightsabers than watching a sheep got stripped.

Cingjing Green Green Grassland - horses


There were horses for those interested in horse riding. It was amazing they could stand still for hours waiting for the riders. On this day, there were few visitors.

Outside Green Green Grassland, there were stalls selling fruits and snacks. We had a simple lunch consisting of sweet corn, wild boar sausage and braised tofu with salted vegetables. Plus huge round pears which the fruit seller was happy to cut for us.

 Cingjing and Green Green Grassland

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Taiwan Day 3 (Part 2) – Cingjing walking trails


15 December 2011

After visiting Green Green Grassland and taken our lunch, we continued along the mountain trail leading down to the windmill we saw in the distance from Green Green Grassland.

Old England at Cingjing

Old England Manor at Cingjing.


This was a good place to get an bird’s eye view of the Cingjing town, the various minsu, terraced tea plantations and mountain ranges. The above is the picture of Old England Manor, one of the most beautiful and expensive accommodation in the region, taken with a 200mm telephoto lens. Maybe, I would stay at this hotel in my next visit to Cingjing.


From the high mountain pasture trail, we then took the forest trail.
 





We rested at the place called the Natural Theatre where there were a few rabbits standing on tables with open cages. And glass tanks showcasing snakes, beetles and other creeping crawlies. The place was deserted, except for one person manning the stalls.



After the Natural Theatre, we then came to the start of the next trail. The 499 Steps trail.

CKS statue at Cingjing

The statue of Chiang Kai Shek could be seen peeping at us through the trees. This photo was taken just before the start of the 499-Steps trail leading down to Misty Villa. 

Cingjing walking trails

Somehow, the marking carved onto the top step of the stair way showed 487 instead of 499. 

  Trail from Misty Villa to Green Green Grassland

Walking up 499 (or 487) steps would be no joke. Hence we were glad that we were walking down instead of up. Along the way, this sign was spotted describing the Cryptomeria trees that flanked the staircase. I wonder who did the the English translation. 

Lost in Translation - Cingjing

The above is a view of Swiss Garden and Misty Villa Minsu (greenish building with flat roof where we were staying in Cingjing). This was taken from a lookout point along the 499 steps trail.

Finally at the bottom of the 499 Steps trail, a voice called up to us and we met this bee keeper who was selling honey and bee pollen products at her stall. She assured us that the bees would be safe to view and not attack us after a few dose of smoke from a can.

bee keeper who was selling honey and bee pollen products at her stall


Cingjing - bees



We went in close to film this video flying around us and photograph her bees. The queen bee is the one with a red round spot on the thorax and is slightly larger than the normal honey bees.

She urged us to taste the honey and bee pollen and proceed to show us what good honey is supposed to be like, when mixed with water and how pollen is extracted from the bees using a gadget with small holes in it. The bees are supposed to fly through the holes and the pollen scraped off the bees in the process.

After the demonstration, I bought a bottle of honey drink from her, partly to reward her efforts to educate us on the bees and partly because we wanted a drink after the long walk from Green Green Grassland.

After the end of the trail, we went to Starbuck at Cingjing Plaza, next to Misty Villa for tea, coffee and snacks, instead of Old England Manor which was our original plan. This was because it was not easy to get a taxi up here in Cingjing and we had enough of walking for one day.

Then we went back to Misty Villa for a short nap before dinner at 7.30 PM. The dinner menu was almost the same as the previous night, except the dishes were cooked slightly differently.  Still it was a tasty and enjoyable dinner. Somehow, the steamed fresh-water carp tasted good, without the muddy taste that is typical of fresh water fish found in the lowlands. And the taste and texture of the poached, crispy fresh vegetables was unbeatable.

See also my post on the
Map of Cingjing showing the walking trails.

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Taiwan Day 4 (Part 1) – Sunrise at Misty Villa Minsu in Cingjing


16 December 2011

Once again, I was the first to wake up in the morning. As I saw the light streaming in through the curtains, I knew this was going to be a good day ahead for our journey across the Central Mountains to Hua Lien, through He Huan San and Taroko National Park.

I jumped out of bed, grabbed my camera and was rewarded with these shots of the clouds pouring down the mountain range, backlit by the morning sun.

 


It was interesting to see how the landscape and mood changes rapidly as the sun rose. It was misty at dawn and then as the sun rose, the mist cleared. From the balcony of our room in Misty Villa Minsu, the 499 Steps trail that we walked and lookout point could be seen (photo below).

The windmill near Green Green Grassland and the start of the Forest Trail The windmill near Green Green Grassland and the start of the Forest Trail we had taken yesterday could also be seen in the distance.

Sunrise at Misty Villa Minsu in Cingjing


Sunrise at Misty Villa Minsu in CingjingView from our bedroom in Misty Villa, Cingjing.


Mountain View at dining room of Misty VillaView from the dining room where we had breakfast.


As our pickup today was at 8.30 AM, we were the first down for breakfast at 8 AM. Mr Li Te Ming, our driver for today, was waiting for us in his yellow Toyota Wish taxi when we finished our breakfast. We loaded up our luggage and were soon heading up towards He Huan San along the Highway 14.

We passed by Green Green Grassland and then later got a glimpse of Starry Minsu (another popular minsu in Cingjing that I was considering before booking Misty). Starry is located at almost the highest point in Cingjing, about 2000m above sea level according to Mr Li.  I think the view here would be even better at the higher elevation. In any case, we are now heading for He Huan San and I am looking forward to photographing the beautiful mountain landscape, especially the “sea of cloud”. Weather-wise, it is almost perfect. No rain, with some patches of cloud in the sky.

Next post: He Huan San and the Bilu Sacred Tree on the way to Taroko Gorge.

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Taiwan Day 4 (Part 2) – He Huan Shan and Bilu Sacred Tree


16 December 2011

Sea of Cloud

This is a photo of the “sea of cloud” which I have been hoping to capture when I came to Cingjing. I managed to get this magnificent views as we left Cingjing and headed towards He Huan Shan. Part of the town of Cingjing where we came from could be seen in this photo.

We made the stop at the west entrance to the Taroko National Park.

Entrance to Taroko National Park from Highway 14

From here, we could see the winding mountain road (Highway 14) that took us here.

Highway 14 Mountain road


Panorama Sea od Cloud from Entrance to Tarako National ParkIn this panoramic photo (stitched from a series of photos), the whole town of Cingjing could be seen.

Cingjing town and Sea of cloud from entrance to Taroko National Park


Soon after shooting the photos above, clouds started to roll in from our left and would cover the beautiful view. 

We then proceeded to the next stop which was the highest point accessible by car in the Central Mountains of Taiwan. This is at 3278 metres above sea level.

Highest Point reachable by car in Central Mountain

We could see the clouds rolling in at the distance and would soon cover the west entrance of Taroko National Park, where we were about 5 minutes ago. I doubt anyone there would be able to get a good clear view of Cingjing and the sea of cloud in the distance at this moment. 

View of West Taroko Entrance from Hehuansan

On top of the world feelings. Almost.


Hikers at mountain peak

We could barely see a group of hikers on a mountain peak in the distance. This gave a sense of how small we are, in comparison to the mountain ranges that were before us.

Mr Li, our taxi driver, is a good guide and give us a lot of interesting information. For example, the red buildings in the picture below is an army base, used by the Taiwanese armed forces to train their national servicemen in mountain survival during winter. He told us about their training methods and the kind of hardship the men had to endure.

View at entrance to Taroko

We then proceeded on, this time downhill and stopped at a lookout point near He Huan Shan. This was the start point of trails for those interested to hike up the mountains.

We stopped to take the “mandatory” photos at this location, showing the date, time and temperature. Mr Li is so familiar which this electronic signboard that he could tell us exactly when the date, time and temperature would next appear so we could get the “perfect shot”.

HehuanSan Temperature

Temperature was 4.5 degrees C. We were comfortably dressed for the occasion, despite the wind, and were able to appreciate the view from the lookout point.

The clouds in the valley seen at this location (picture above) is Taroko Gorge, our next destination. 


Mountain PeekMountain peaks (peeks) peeking through the thick clouds as we descended towards Taroko Gorge. 


Mountain road pass

Mr Li pointed out a small police post along the way. This is the He Huan Police post, manned by 6 policemen. These guys were posted here because of disciplinary issues back in the cities. Sort of “solitary confinement” for them as there is practically nothing here to do when off duty, except the mountains and forest. We were joking that they are here mainly to guard the petrol kiosk located just opposite the police station. These guys have so much leisure time that they have a small vegetable plot next to the station for them to “farm”.

Highest police postHighest police post in Taiwan.

Petrol Kiosk in Taroko

Petrol kiosk located just opposite the police station


Going past the petrol station, the road started to become foggy. It was like flying into a sea of cloud on a jet plane, but actually, we were entering a sea of cloud in a moving taxi.

From the high mountain road that we were previously on, we were now travelling on a road that was carved out from the side of the mountain. Steep mountain on the left side, and the river and gorge on the right.  And many road tunnels as well.

Road clearing personnelMan on the motorbike – part of the road maintenance crew tasked to remove rocks that has fallen onto the roads from the steep cliffs above.

Tunnel and mist in Taroko


Our next stop is the Bilu Sacred Tree, which is a 3000 years old Fir. The fog actually made the tree appear more mysterious.

Bilu Sacred Tree Sign

Bilu Sacred Tree in mist at Taroko National Park.


Despite the foggy conditions, we were in the good hands of Mr Li, who is a very experienced and careful driver. He told us he had been driving this route for many, many years and had witnessed several horrendous accidents. We almost witnessed one ourselves. A car was travelling fast and sped past our taxi. A moment later, it jammed its brakes suddenly and had to reverse out of this narrow tunnel. Almost a head-on collision with a tour bus.

Near accident


After passing by a hairpin turn along the highway, known in Chinese as the Hui Tou Wan, we met up with Mr Li Te Ming’s wife, Tiffany Chang who is also a taxi driver. Tiffany would be our guide to show us the scenic spots in Taroko Gorge and also drive us the rest of way to Hua Lien. Mr Li will drive another group back up to Cingjing.

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