10 November 2022
After my short visit to Jeju back in 2011, I told myself that I will return one day to hike the Jeju Olle trails and I did.
Hiking in Jeju is easy with the Olle trails. There are 26 different walking and hiking courses circling the island. The trails are remarkably well designed and well marked. Hikers just need to follow markers along the journey. The symbols could be blue arrows at junctions, a blue horse, ribbons tied to trees or signposts, or arrows painted on the footpaths or walls.
The blue arrows mark the direction from the starting point to the finish point, typically in a clockwise direction round Jeju Island. Since some people may do it the other way round, you can also follow the orange symbols if you start at a finishing point and hike towards the starting point. Routes were always clear but subtly marked.
More information about the Jeju Olle trails can be found at this site, Jeju Olle Trail Official English Guide.
One of the Olle trail signposts showing the direction were to take on the trail.
We selected to hike the Jeju Olle 6 and Olle 10 trails as we were told these 2 trails are two of the most scenic and also the easiest. The start point for the Olle 6 trail is at Soesokkak Estuary. The plan is to hike the coastal trail back towards Seogwipo, ending at our hotel.
After a hearty breakfast at BK Hotel in Seogwipo, we requested the front desk to help us get 2 taxis to take our group of 6 persons (3 couples) to the Soesokkak Estuary. It was a shame that Annabelle injured her foot the day earlier and one couple has to sit this hike out.
The taxis appeared within a few minutes. The metered fare from our hotel to Soesokkak Estuary was 8200 KWR and 8500 KWR as one taxi took the coastal route and the other took the main roads.
Soesokkak Estuary
We arrived at Soesokkak at about 9.15 AM. The name of this place came from a combination of different words. “Soe” came from the old name of this place Soedun which means laying cow, “so” means a ‘pool of water’ and “Kkak” means ‘the mouth of the river” in local dialect. So, Soesokkak Estuary is the mouth of the Hyodoncheon stream. This stream starts at the Southern and Western wall of Hallasan and flows all the way to the coast.
Soesokkak Estuary is lined with cliffs with interesting lava formations, which are overhung with pine trees. Here the deep water takes on the deep blue of the ocean. Soesokkak was so picturesque that we spent some time exploring the place.
There are wooden boardwalks with viewing platforms along the stream. The path is shaded by many pine trees growing on the banks.
Soesokkak is a place worthy of a visit, even if visitors do not plan to hike Olle trail 6. There are activities like kayaking on the stream or one could also take a leisurely ride on the traditional raft called the Tewoo.
After all the activities, there are loads of cafes and restaurants for visitors to top up their calories.
It started to drizzle a little while we were busy snapping photos but the drizzle was so short lived. It stopped by the time we put on our rain jackets.
Hahyo Black Sand Beach
Next to Soesokkak Estuary was the Hahyo Black Sand Beach. The sand is basalt from Hallasan, which had been broken down and carried down along the Hyodongcheon Stream to the coast where it had accumulated to form this beach.
There must be something interesting about the sculpture of Haenyeo at Hahyo Black Sand Beach.
We spent quite some time enjoying the scenic beauty of SE and the beach. By the time we actually started on our hike, it was already 10.15 AM.
Sogeummak
Slightly after the beach, we saw a blue horse shaped Olle signpost next to a sculpture of a woman carrying a bag.
Besides pointing the direction of the route, horse-shaped Olle signpost provides interesting information about the place along the trail.
Sogeummak is where people boiled seawater to produce salt and stored them back in the days when salt was valuable. There used to be a barrack for soldiers guarding the salt at this place.
Further down, we came to a pavilion where we could get good views of Hahyo port and a pair of red and white lighthouses on the breakwaters protecting the harbour.
Common sights along the coast of Jeju are pairs of red and whte lighthouses, marking the entrances to harbour.
Gaewooji Koji (cape)
We met a group of fellow hikers from Singapore at a cape. This cape offers some good views of the harbour and the coast. This place also has beautiful wild flowers blooming in autumn. There were a couple of wooden benches for those in need of some rest.
Chatting with fellow hikers.
Some parts of the Olle trails are good for cycling too.
Interesting sculpture of two Jeju icons, a Dol Hareubang carrying a Black Pig.
Beautiful flowers on the route.
We soon arrived at a fork in the road where we had the option of hiking up and down a small oreum or continue along the coastal route. Three of us (one couple and I) chose to hike the oreum while my wife and another couple decided to continue along the flat coastal route. We will meet at Oreuba Cafe, our first pit stop.
Jejigi Oreum (small extinct volcano)
The three oreum hikers took the detour and headed inland. We passed by a road with orange farms before arriving at the start of the trail up Jejigi Oreum.
Horse-shaped signpost at the foot of trail up Jejigi Oreum providing some information on the oreum.
On the way up, I could see the coastal route that we had taken so far from Soesokkak to the oreum.
Views of greenhouses in farms (mostly tangerine I think) on the way up the oreum. Soesokkak could be seen. The trail up to the summit is mostly forested so there was not much of a view until we reached the top. Even then, the views from the summit were not really worth the effort to get there.
View of Bomuk port from the summit of Jejigi Oreum.
The trail down from Jejigi Oreum to Oreuba Cafe has some pretty yellow flowers.
Oreuba Cafe – Our first Pit Stop
Oreuba Cafe is located just at the foot of Jejigi Oreum and just next to the ocean. This is a good place for a rest while hiking along the Olle 6 trail.
Oreuba Cafe. The sign at the cafe shows Orba Cafe but Naver map shows this place as Oreuba Cafe.
The best seats are at the second floor. The interior is well decorated with tropical plants.
The advance party from our group enjoying their time at the cafe while we hike up the oreum.
The three oreum hikers enjoying our food and drinks.
We have nice views of the ocean off Jeju while enjoying the food and drinks. Some of us actually saw dolphins surfacing in the sea, quite a distance away.
Bomok Port
Just after the oreum is another port with fishing boats. Some boats are lined with rows of large light bulbs. These boats goes out at night and the lights will attract squids and fish to their nets.
Boats with lights on the bow for squid fishing. The squids are attracted by the lights at night.
Interesting slipway, sloping into the sea.
The weather at noon became hot and sunny as the morning rain clouds gave way to blue sky. It seemed like my prayer for good weather at Yakcheonsa Temple had been granted.
Hats and even umbrellas were useful when hiking along the Olle trails.
More harbour/port along the trail.
The parts of the Olle trail through forested area were covered with non-slip straw mats. Excellent for hikers.
Blue and orange ribbons tied to trees were often the markers in the forested area.
We could see our destination, Seogwipo and Jeongbang Waterfall, still far far away.
Zoomed in view of Seogwipo and Jeongbang Waterfall.
Looking back at Gudumi Island - It is named after the shape of the area which looks like the head and tail of a turtle.
The forested area provided us some shade from the midday sun.
Socheonji Pond
There is a short detour along the trail that led to a gazebo offering good views of the coast as well as a natural lava pond called the Socheonji Pond.
Stairs leading down to the gazebo at Socheonji Pond.
This small lava pond is named after the Cheonji Pond at the crater of Mount Baekdu. Socheonji, which means little pond of heaven, is called that because the waters, on clear days, is said to reflect the sky in a similar manner to the real Cheonji Pond (Pond of Heaven).
Socheonji pond with its clear green water.
It is said that one could see Hallasan reflected on its surface on a clear day. I was tempted to walk to the edge of the pond for some photos but decided against it. Some of my fellow hikers did not take the detour down to the Socheonji and I did not want to keep them waiting.
Beautiful seascape seen from the Socheonji gazebo.
Grandfather stone and the Rainbow Road
We met 2 ladies from Singapore hiking in the reverse direction at the place with a large Dol Haruebang or Grandfather Stone. We swapped information about the trail we had already taken and also help take some group photos.
Our group photo taken with the help of fellow hikers.
It is amazing how 7 cans of rainbow coloured paint can transformed the coastal road into something that is picture worthy. This is a low cost and no frills way to brighten up the place.
Adventure Route instead of easy path through KAL Hotel
After the rainbow coastal road, we arrived at T-junction with a sign that offered 2 options – an easy route through the grounds of the nearby KAL Hotel that is recommended for the elderly and during bad weather OR to take the usual Olle route that goes through some rough terrain.
We did a poll.
Majority of the group chose the usual route and the others sportingly agree to follow although they would prefer the easy route. We are still young and fit enough to have some fun and adventure.
Going through some rough terrain along Olle trail 6 although an easier option is available.
We have to cross a stream with wet slippery rocks at this place. Note the blue and orange ribbons tied to trees, marking the Olle route.
We have to tread carefully on these wet and treacherous rocks.
Happiness is when we all succeeded in clearing the obstacle course.
More rough terrain after the minor water obstacle.
Honeymoon House – Our Second Pit Stop
We made a stop at a cafe recommended by the two ladies we met earlier. This cafe is impossible to miss. The Olle trail actually passed through the terrace of the cafe.
The Honeymoon House is located in an excellent location, overlooking the sea. Desserts such as homemade cookies and cakes and various beverages are available. As forewarned by our fellow hikers, the drinks and food at this cafe did not come cheap but this was expected.
The outdoor terrace at Honeymoon Cafe is best during good weather. It is shaded, breezy and offers panoramic views of the ocean.
Glass of Mango Apple juice for 10,000 KWR.
Sojeongbang Waterfall
Just before arriving at the Jeongbang Waterfall, we came to a small waterfall called the Little Jeongbang Waterfall or Sojeongbang Waterfall.
Sojeongbang Waterfall falls 5 meters into the sea.
The path down to the sea is fenced off for maintenance and we could not go down to check out the waterfall from below.
Farmer at work.
We passed a small farm and a park before arriving at the entrance to Jeongbang Waterfall.
Jeongbang Waterfall
Jeongbang Waterfall is Asia's one and only coastal waterfall where the water is falling straight into the ocean. The waterfall is 23m in height and 8m in width.
We paid the entrance fee of 2000 KWR per person and took a steep flight of stairs down to the rocky beach.
This was my second visit to Jeongbang Waterfall. Just like before, there were ajummas selling seafood on the rocks below.
Ajummas selling seafood on the rocks at Jeongbang Waterfall.
There are large rocks surrounding the waterfall. Many people were scrambling over these rocks to get closer to the falls.
We did likewise, carefully, and had a little photo shoot with the falls as the background.
I tried to find the same spot where I took this photo in our previous trip on 2011, but was unsuccessful.
Almost same spot. Same model.
Celebrating the completion of our Jeju Olle 6 hike at Jeongbang Waterfall.
Jeongbang was the last “attraction” that we wanted to see along our Olle 6 hike. It was around 4 PM when we left the waterfall.
From there, we continued along the Olle trail route towards Seogwipo where our hotel is located. We were feeling very weary and hungry. We have skipped lunch!
We made a stop at a roadside stall along Chilsimni Food Street for some hotteok, a sweet pancake with bean fillings. The hotteok was freshly made and served up piping hot in a paper cup. This snack tasted so good. Chilsimni Food Street has many seafood restaurants and that is where we planned to go for dinner after a rest and shower back at our hotel.
Olle 6 trail will continue through downtown Seogwipo, Lee Jung-seop Street and the Seogwipo Olle Market. We did not continue all the way. We ended our hike at BK Hotel, our hotel in Seogwipo.
Olle Trail 6 was one of the easiest hike I have done. We covered an approximate distant of 8.5 km from Soesokkak to Jeongbang Waterfall at a very leisurely pace. Overall, we had seen the best of what Olle 6 trail has to offer - stunning coastlines, beaches, ports, waterfalls, oreum, villages, farmland and wonderful cafes.
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