18 November 2016
For over a thousand years, Kumano Kodo pilgrims would visit the Kumano Hongu Taisha first, and then they had the option to ride a boat down Kumano River to the ocean and visit Hayatama Taisha. This would be followed by a walk along the ocean shores to reach the base of the mountains on which Nachi Taisha is located.
Alternatively, they could instead cross the steep mountains from Hongu to Nachi Taisha and then by the coastal route to Hayatama Taisha. Kumano Hayatama Taisha is the second of the three Kumano grand shrines.
We had booked a boat trip down the same river; in a traditional flat bottom boat as pilgrims has been doing for centuries. From Kawayu Onsen, we had taken the 8.58 AM Kumano Kotsu Bus that would bring us to the Kumanogawa River Boat Tour Centre located in the small riverside village of Hitari. On board, we spotted the two Australian ladies who we have been meeting along our Kumano Kodo. They alighted before us, presumably to get to the trailhead that will lead them over and across the rugged mountains to Nachi Taisha.
We arrived at Hitari and there were a few others who were also taking the same boat tour departing at 10 AM. As a group, we found the boat centre easily using the detailed instructions provided by the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau website.
We were briefed by our guide who spoke good English and of course Japanese. Besides us, there was a Western couple and a Japanese man. The five of us were taken in a van to the boat launching point. We could leave our backpacks in the van. The van would travelled to Shingu, our destination, and meet us there.
Donning life jackets and a traditional conical (and comical) bamboo hat, we set off on a small boat down the river. We were given cushions to sit on and a large woolly blanket to place over our laps to keep us warm.
The van driver waved goodbye to us, with his arms up and down over his head and side, cum shouting some traditional blessing message for pilgrims, just like the old days.
The boat has an outboard motor, so our journey down the river was faster than what it would be in the old days. The river was peaceful and calm, except for a few small rapids or eddies further downstream. The morning sun, beating down on us, kept us comfortably warm.
The scenery was amazing.
Some rough waters.
We passed many waterfalls and geological rock features, which the guide pointed out to our left and right. She spoke both in English and Japanese. I was more interested in the gorgeous views of the gorge and river.
There were some interesting rocks, including one with some moss that looked like a monkey’s face.
Moss growing on a rock that looked like a monkey’s face.
We made a brief stop and got ashore at Bone Island. Legend has it that an evil demon that lived there was struck down by the gods of this region and the rocks on this island were remains of his severed spine.
Does these rocks look like the spinal bones of a giant?
The guide told us to touch the bones (rocks) with both hands and thereafter, we would be younger.
Younger at heart perhaps, since we all had a good laugh doing this stunt.
Leaving the bone island, we travelled further down river and the guide pointed out a rock that looked like a bell.
Tsurigane Rock - above the bell rock is an overhanging rock. She told us that the locals believed that if that overhanging rock falls, this world would come to an end.
Birdwatchers would enjoy this trip. We saw eagles, cormorants, herons and many others I could not identify.
There was even rocks called the Tatami Rock, which looks like tatami mats piled up and leaning to the right.
It was at the Tatami Rock that the boatman stopped the engine and rowed the boat the traditional way. Our guide took out a traditional bamboo flute, told us to close our eyes, be close to nature while she played a tune. At peace with nature. I could appreciate what the pilgrims would be feeling when they travelled down this river centuries ago.
Shortly after that, we arrived at the seaside city of Shingu, where the Kumano River meets the Pacific Ocean.
Disembarkation point at Shingu.
After disembarkation at Shingu, the van took us from the river to the Hayatama Taisha Shrine where the tour ended.
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