Enjoying a hot bath by the river at Kawayu Onsen

17 and 18 November 2016

Lying on our backs and soaking in warm water on a river bank and watching the lone eagle circling in the sky above while a pair of ducks swam, only a few metres away, in the cold river water on a November evening was one of the most unique experience in our Kumano Kodo journey. That was the main reason why I came and stay overnight in the Fujiya Ryokan at Kawayu Onsen.

“Kawa” means “river” and “yu” means “hot water”. In Kawayu Onsen hot spring water percolates to the surface of the crystal clear river.  By digging a shallow pool on the banks, we mixed the hot spring water with the cold river water to form a natural onsen bath.


For those who visit from December to February, the river could be crowded as a giant bath in the river called Sennin-buro would be built. "Sennin" means "one thousand people", implying that it is so large that one thousand people can bathe at the same time. At this time of the year, we had the river almost to ourselves which was just great. Who needs crowds at a place like this?

It was interesting to sit on the smooth river stones, watching and feeling hot water bubbling intermittently around us.



If it gets too hot, just swirl a bit of the colder river water to mix with the hot water or go sit at another spot.

The best place to bath in the river, where the spring water was the hottest, or most active was just in front of the Fujiya Ryokan. Fujiya Ryokan is one the biggest ryokan and probably the best place to stay in the small village of Kawayu Onsen.  The luxury ryokan provides everything a guest may need to enjoy a river bath – slippers, towels, and a carrier bag for our clothes and yukatas. They even provided shovels for those who wish to dig their own onsen. We were too lazy to dig our own and just made use of pools that were dug by others before us.

In addition to the natural river onsen, Fujiya has a few onsens within the building. I actually tried two of them before using the river onsen.  There was a large marble onsen with very hot water in the rectangular pool, much like a swimming pool, and another open-air onsen, with “not so hot water in natural shaped pool in a more natural setting. I enjoyed the river onsen best.

We had time to use the river onsen again the next morning before leaving Kawayu Onsen. It was a misty and chilly morning but early risers were already on the river banks.


Morning sun shining through the mist as viewed from our room in Fujiya Ryokan.

The heat from the hot spring water produced a lot more mist when mixed with the cold morning air.


An early riser having a soak at the river onsen.


Enjoying a walk by the river in front of the Fujiya Ryokan.


This time round, we only soak our feet and not spend too much time at the river. We had to catch the 8.50 AM bus to a small village called Hitari for a traditional boat ride down the Shingu River to the next Kumano shrine.