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Stockholm in Winter - Visit to Vasa Museum at Djurgården island

19 January 2017  


It made sense to combine a visit to the Vasa Museum with a visit to the Abba Museum since both museums are within walking distance to each other on the Djurgården island.

Vasa is a story of an epic fail that happened in 1628 and an epic success 333 years later. Vasa is actually a name of a Swedish warship, supposedly the most powerful warship in the Baltic, that sank on her maiden voyage before the eyes of a large audience, scant minutes after setting sail for the first time.

There would be no Vasa Museum if that was the end of the story. 

In the early 1950s, Anders Franzén, a fuel engineer in the Swedish navy and amateur archaeologist with a great interest in Swedish naval history, started searching for the Vasa. The ship was found a few years later, upright and half buried in mud, near where Grona Lund is.  It was a miracle that the ship had not rotted away or eaten by sea worms.  The mud had a preserving effect, and the wood-destroying sea worm does not thrive in water with low salt content.

The next challenge after the discovery was how to salvage the ship. Six tunnels were dug through the mud, under the ship, for the salvage team to pull massive steel cables across. These cables were taken to two floating pontoons and the ship was then lifted, inch by inch. On 24 April 1961, the epic success happened and the ship saw the light of day again, 333 years later.

There was still much remained to be done. Holes and leaks were plugged and water pumped put till she is afloat on her own keel and could be tugged to a wharf. Then the restoration work began. I remember I visited the Vasa Museum at the temporary exhibit, 30 years ago. It was good to be back.

There were free guided tours at the Museum and the schedules were posted near the entrance. We started the tour on the ground floor and followed the guide as she took us round the ship. The guide in the tour did a good job to explain details about Vasa. After the tour, we had time to go round to see the details of the ship and learn more about the Vasa, how and why the ship sunk, how it was found, recovered, restored, preserved and how the crew had lived and died. There was also some display of remains of the crew that was recovered.


Vasa Museum at StockholmStarting point of the tour – the bow of the Vasa.



This ship took 1000 oaks trees to build. This was a big ship compared to the normal Viking boats that requires 12 trees. The ship was designed by a Dutch guy called Henrik as the King wanted a super powerful boat with 2 rows of guns mounted on a double deck. 


Vasa Museum in Stockholm

In total, there was 64 number of 24-pounder guns. Due to the excessive number of guns, the ship was actually top-heavy and it was also found that there was not enough ballast at the bottom.

To add to the issues, the workmen and builders of the ship comprises Swedes, Finns and Dutch. There were communication issues. One example was that the Dutch and Finns were using different scales. The Dutch foot was shorter by 1 cm compared to the Swedish foot. There were also no drawing plans. All these led to bad construction. To make matters worse, the designer (Henrik) passed away one year before completion. Actually, that saved him from having his head chopped by the King after the ship sank!

All the design issues led to the pre-matured sinking. Before she could even get out of Stockholm harbour, a strong gust of wind tipped the ship so far over on its port side that water poured in through the open gun ports on the lower gun deck. Within minutes, the ship was on the sea bed at a depth of 32 metres. All but 30 of the crew and guests (family members of crew) survived when Vasa sank.



Vasa Museum in StockholmThe figurehead is a lion holding the heraldic arms of the Vasa dynasty, a corn sheaf (“vase”), after which the ship was named.


Vasa Museum in StockholmThe sculptures along the sides of the beakhead represent the Roman emperors, in chronological order.  Some were still missing.


Vasa Museum in StockholmGun ports with hatch opened. The design is such that the brightly painted lion  mask would be upright when the hatch is opened.

Even the gun ports of the ship was also decorated. They would usually remained closed until the ship is about to go into battle. When closed, the lion head inside the ship would be upside down!
It was believed that when Vasa sank, all the gun ports were opened due to celebratory cannon fire.



Vasa Museum in StockholmBeautiful rigging and mast.


Vasa Museum in StockholmThe “toilet” for the crew is located at the head of the ship. It can be seen in the photo above. Guess where it is.


Vasa Museum in StockholmThe back of the Vasa.



The preserved ship was mostly dark due to the preservatives used. A project image shows what the actual colour scheme may be like.


A model of what the actual ship could look like in full colours.



Overall, I enjoyed my visit to the Vasa Museum.  I spent almost 2 hours at this museum and may have spent even more time if not for the 5 PM closing time.

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Stockholm in Winter – Back to Gamla Stan, lunch at Österlånggatan 17 and shopping at IKEA


20 January 2017

The weather in Stockholm turned warm on this day. By Stockholm winter’s norm, this meant it was a few degrees above zero. Snow on the sidewalks was mostly melted but there was still some ice on the sides. We made a second visit to Gamla Stan on this “warm” winter’s day.


Street in Gamla Stan.


There were more people on the streets and Gamla Stan was livelier. We browse through a few of the souvenir shops and bought a small tray.

It was also a good day to snap some interesting photos of Gamla Stan.



















A good place to stop for lunch is at Österlånggatan 17. This restaurant is located near the statue of St George and the Dragon.




The restaurant was crowded when we arrived but we were offered seats at the counter. The bread that was served while waiting for the mains to be cooked was super good. If I could just eat the bread as the main course, I would.

Having said that, the mains were excellent too. I ordered the day’s special and it was great!


Grilled fish salad.

Österlånggatan 17Mash potato and bone marrow.


Slow cooked pork.



We got to enjoy this picture while we ate.


After a good meal, we continued northwards, crossed the Stalbron and into the city center.

 

Stalbron leading into the city center.

View from Stadbron.




Our plan for the afternoon was to go to IKEA. The bus stop for the free shuttle bus to IKEA is located at Vasagatan 10 in the city center.


bus to IKEA is located at Vasagatan 10Timetable for the IKEA Bus operating between Vagatan 10 and IKEA Store at Kungens Kurva.


IKEA is a very popular store in Stockholm. There was a long queue formed for the hourly bus to IKEA from Vasatan 10 but we managed to board the bus. We took the 2 PM bus and arrived at IKEA in about 20 minutes.



This IKEA store is huge! Just count the number of floors in this building in the photo above.

This is a good place to shop of household goods. One of my nieces was crazy enough to buy this huge stuffed shark to bring home!


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Stockholm in Winter – Back to Monteliusvägen and on to Skinnarviksberget for good photo shoot


21 January 2017

Sam was free to join us as it was the weekend. We brought him to Monteliusvägen as he was not with us a few days ago when we came to walk this 500-meter long (quarter mile) walking path with magnificent views of Lake Mälaren, City Hall, and Riddarholmen. This time, I remembered to bring my Canon G5X camera along. The weather seemed to have improved, with scattered clouds and I was hoping to shoot some nicer pictures of Stockholm city from the Monteliusvägen viewpoints.

Once again, we started from the eastern end of Monteliusvägen and walked towards the west.

The following pictures were shot using the Canon G5X. Some with the built-in zoom lens. The shots were from east to west ,starting with Gamla Stan and ending with the waterfront houses of Norr Malastrand.

View of Gamla Stan, the old town from the first Monteliusvägen viewpoint.

 View of Riddarholmen from the first Monteliusvägen viewpoint. The spire is that of the Riddarholmen Church, the burial church of the Swedish monarchs.

 MonteliusvägenView of the City Hall, with its spire featuring the golden Three Crowns, from the first Monteliusvägen viewpoint.

 MonteliusvägenBeautiful waterfront houses along the Norr Mälarstrand.

There were many terraces, viewpoints and benches along the trail. 

Walking trail along Monteliusvägen.





 MonteliusvägenView of Riddarholmen and Gamla Stan. The above pictures were shot using my wife’s Samsung Mobile phone camera.


Somewhere in the middle of the trail, we could see the Stockholm ferry boat operating on the still icy lake. 
 MonteliusvägenStockholm ferry boat operating on the still icy lake. 


Some parts of the lake were still covered with thin ice.

 Monteliusvägen
The ferry boat was like a mini ice-breaker, going about its business.

 Monteliusvägen

At almost 11 AM in the morning, the winter sun was low on the horizon and it was a good time for photography. There was a moment when the sun shone through the clouds, casting a warm orange glow on the beautiful waterfront houses along the Norr Mälarstrand.
Beautiful!


 MonteliusvägenWarm orange glow from the winter sun on the beautiful waterfront houses along the Norr Mälarstrand.

After walking the Monteliusvägen, we continued west for a short distance to find the next good location for photo taking, Skinnarviksberget.
Skinnarviksberget is the highest natural point in central Stockholm and offered another vantage point with an extensive panoramic view of the city.



There was an information board explaining that we were walking through a protected area. Skinnarviksberget is the only hill in Stockholm to retain its original bare, treeless character. Workers and poor people used to live here. There used to be tobacco plantations and factories here.

Walking through an area with 18th Century houses to Skinnarviksberget.


We walked up a path with well-preserved 18th Century houses of stones and timber on our right.
A resident walking his dog led the way to the destination.


This was a favourite place among the locals for picnics and parties under the open sky but not in winter. Too cold for that.  There was only two men who were there and they left shortly after we arrived.


Tower at Skinnarviksberget.



The views from here were almost similar to what we saw along Monteliusvägen but from different perspectives.


Skinnarviksberget.




Views of Norr Malarstrand and City Hall from Skinnarviksberget.

These were some close-up photos of the houses along Norr Malarstrand, shot with the zoom lens of the Canon G5X.



Houses along Norr Malarstrand.


Being the highest point, we could get 360 degree views of the city. The views away from the lake were quite interesting too.

Views of Sodermalm from Skinnarviksberget.

There was little ponds of ice on the top in winter.



Views of Sodermalm from Skinnarviksberget.

Chess pieces on the Stockholm skyline.
Which is this is a Rook (Castle), Bishop, Queen or Pawn?


To get back from Skinnarviksberget to Slussen, we walked along the main road of Hornsgatan. There were shops to browse along the way and the buildings along the way were quite pretty too.

Hornsgatan


Stockholm is a beautiful city and best enjoyed by walking.

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Stockholm in Winter - Gamla Stan, Skeppsholmen and Kungsträdgården again!


21 January 2017

After spending the morning at  Monteliusvägen and Skinnarviksberget with Samuel, we made our way from Slussen to Gamla Stan to meet up with the rest of our travelling group for lunch. Instead of taking the train from Slussen to Gamla Stan, this time we walked.

Stockholm is a city made for walking! Even in winter. You get to see amazing views of the city.

Here are the views as we walked from Slussen to Gamla Stan.

 




 
After meeting up the rest of the group, we went for lunch at the Gästabud in Gamla Stan. This was followed by a walk to the Skeppsbrokajen and on to Skeppsholmen. Although it was almost a repeat of what we did a few days ago, the look and feel was so much different!

View of the Royal Palace from the Skeppsbrokajen.


Stockholm skyline was marred by those construction cranes!






Nice buildings along Stockholm waterfront

The photo above was shot at 1.15 PM. See how low the sun was!


Skeppsholmen and the Af Chapman (a boat operating as a hostel).Skeppsholmen and the Af Chapman (a boat operating as a hostel).




Gilded Crown on Skeppsholmsbron.






Nice buildings along waterfront - Grand Hotel StockholmNice buildings along waterfront - Grand Hotel Stockholm


From Skeppsholmen, we walked to Kungsträdgården to see people doing ice skating in the park.
Kungsträdgården in winter – a place for fun in the snow and ice.




Colourful skates that can be rented at the public ice skating rink at Kungsträdgården.


We ended the day with dinner at one of our favourite restaurants in London, and now in Stockholm too! This is the Burger and Lobster restaurant located at Norrlandsgatan 33. 

 
One pound fresh lobster (grilled or steamed), with fries and salad for 295 SEK. Sauce cost extra.


Although there were options for Burger, Lobster or Lobster Roll Sandwich, everyone in the group chose the grilled lobster! Easy choice to make.

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