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Trip Overview - 9 days in Yunnan covering Kunming, Dali, Lijiang and Shangri-La and hiking at Tiger Leaping Gorge

My son was searching for great places to hike within Asia when Tiger Leaping Gorge came up. Tiger Leaping Gorge is considered one of China’s best hikes for its adventurous routes, fantastic views, flora and fauna, appealing geological features like waterfalls, and isolation.     

Hiking at Tiger Leaping Gorge.

After watching some YouTube videos of the hiking at this place, we decided to make a trip to Yunnan.

Yunnan, the “South of Colorful Clouds”, is the most southwestern province in China and is also the most diverse province in all China, both in its extraordinary mix of ethnic groups (Bai, Naxi, Tibetan, Yi etc.) and in the splendor of its landscapes. There are many attractions for travelers and photographers ranging from snow mountains and emerald lakes to deep gorges; from stone forest to karst caves; from Tibetan monastery to holy pagodas. 

Overview of the cities in Yunnan that we visited.

Since we have only 9 days, we did the classic itinerary for first timers to Yunnan that starts and end at Kunming, with sightseeing in Dali, Lijiang and Shangri-La. Kunming is the capital and largest city of the province of Yunnan in China and has the most international flights in and out of Yunnan.  Dali, Lijiang, and Shangri-La boast well preserved ancient towns and villages that used to be part of the ancient Tea Horse Road.

We had a private car with driver and guide for sightseeing at Kunming. Thereafter we travelled by high speed train to Dali. From there, we travelled by private car and driver for the rest of our trip at Dali, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge and Shangri-La.

Our car with driver for the trip from Dali to Shangri-La.

From Shangri-La, we took a late domestic flight back to Kunming, stayed at Kunming for the night before flying back home the next day.

 

Using a local tour agency

China is not a place where foreigners could easily make advance bookings for public transport or even admissions tickets to certain popular tourist attractions e.g. cable cars at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Furthermore, in some cities, the best way to get to the remote places or attractions is by private car.

Hence, we decided to let a local travel agency do the legwork even if it meant we have to pay more. In return, we get to travel more efficiently (i.e. see and do more at each city without wasting time on public transport) and also get personalised services from the local guides and driver.

Book a private tour

After some research, we decided to book a customised private tour for our group of 3 persons with China Highlights. This includes accommodations with daily breakfast, all transfers, tickets for all attractions, train and domestic flights, a private car with driver and guide at each city we visited. For meals at each location, our tour guide will recommend specific restaurants based on our interests and itinerary. 

The planning with this agency was smooth and the tour consultant was very responsive. All transportation within Yunnan was taken care of. We just need to book our international flights to and from Kunming.

Getting to Kunming

We chose to fly by Thai Airways from Singapore to Kunming, with a short stopover at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport although there are direct and cheaper flights between Singapore and Kunming by the budget carrier Scoot. Scoot scheduled arrival at Kunming was 2 AM and scheduled departure from Kunming is at 3 AM! Definitely not the most convenient times for transfer to and from airport.

The cost of flights on the full service Thai Airway ended up cheaper than the budget airline Scoot if we were to include inflight meals and check-in luggage!

This was the itinerary for our Kunming adventure.

 

Day 1 (7 September 2024) – Arrival at Kunming

We departed Singapore at 8 AM on TG402 arriving at Bangkok after about 2 and half hours. After a stopover of about an hour, we boarded TG612 for Kunming. We arrived at Kunming as scheduled at 2 PM.

A person from the local tour agency was present to escort us to a waiting car and drove us to central Kunming. Our hotel in Kunming is the Cachet Boutique Hotel, located in the city centre. After checking into the hotel at about 4 PM, we had the rest of the day to explore the city.

We decided to visit Cui Hu Park (翠湖公园) and explore the city area on foot.

For meals, we had to chance to try the local cuisine like steam pot chicken Qiguoji (汽锅鸡) and Yiliang (宜良) roasted duck at Yi Ke Yin Kunming Old House Restaurant.

Trip report: Exploring Kunming city center – Green Lake Park, Moon and Chalice, Yike Yin restaurant and Nanping shopping street.

Accommodation in Kunming: Cachet Boutique Hotel.

The hotel is located in central Kunming and within walking distance to the Old Street and shopping areas.

Our room at Cachet Boutique Hotel.

 

Day 2 (8 September 2024) – Visit Jiuxiang Caves, Naigu Stone Forest and  travel to Dali by train

Our plan for the day is to check out from our hotel in Kunming, travelled by private car to visit Jiuxiang Caves and Naigu Stone Forest. After the tour, we would travel by bullet train from Kunming Railway Station to Dali Railway Station. We will stay the next two nights in Dali.

Jiuxiang (九乡) Caves system and the Naigu Stone Forest (石林) are two key attractions in Kunming. Since both located about 90 km east of Kunming city and are about 30 km apart. This made it worthwhile to see both places on a day trip out from the city.

One of the many caverns in the Jiuxiang Caves system. 

Jiuxiang Caves is situated in Jiuxiang Township, about 70 kilometers from Kunming. There are more than one hundred karst caves in Jiuxiang scenic area. The caves at Jiuxiang are the largest cave group system in China. Inside the cave are many well-developed and wonderful stalactites and stalagmites. The caves is so large that we had to take a cable car back to the starting point after exploring the caves. 

Cable car ride at Jiu Xiang Caves back to the entrance.

The Shilin Stone Forest is known for its remarkable karst formations with magnificent, strange, and unique natural scenery. The area is very large and consists of multiple places where visitors can go such as the Greater and Lesser Stone Forests and Naigu Stone Forest.

On top of the Naigu Stone Forest.

Our guide recommended that we go to the Naigu Stone Forest since it is less touristy and is often less crowded that the Greater and Lesser Stone Forests.

Exploring the Naigu Stone Forest without the crowds.

Trip report: Jiuxiang Caves and Shilin Stone Forest at Kunming

Trip report: Taking the bullet train from Kunming to Dali and evening in Dali Ancient Town

Accommodation in Dali: Dali Landscape Hotel.

The hotel is located in the Dali Ancient City of Dali, a short walk away from the Foreigner Street and close to the Three Pagodas of Cangshan and Erhai Lake. Its architectural style is based on Bai architectural culture. It is equipped with modern facilities, Bai nationality characteristic decoration and traditional Bai nationality courtyard garden.

The hotel consists of 6 courtyards with 283 rooms. We stayed in Courtyard Number 2.

Large dining hall where we had our morning breakfast.

 

Day 3 (9 September 2024)  – Fun day in Dali

We have the whole day to see and experience the natural wonders of Dali and also experience some culture of the local Bai people.

The activities includes:

  • Bike ride along the West shore of Erhai Lake which is the best way to enjoy views of the Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake.  Starting from Caicun village which is near Dali Ancient Town, we cycled on the well-surfaced cycle way by Erhai Lake to the end point of the cycle way in Xiaguan District.
  • Lunch at a traditional local restaurant.

  • Try our hands at the Bai people traditional art called Tie-dyeing. The Bai ethnic minority art of tie-dyeing has a history of 2,000 years. We went to the house of one of these families in the Zhoucheng village to see the art of tie-dyeing. After learning the process, we had a chance to try it ourselves and tie-dye our own T-shirts.

  • Visit the afternoon market in Zhoucheng village.
  • Stop at a small square and take pictures of the landmark of Dali — The Three Pagodas.

The last activity for the day is to explore the Dali Ancient Town where our hotel is located. It is one of Yunnan's most popular tourist destinations with a history of 1,200 years.

We had time to do shop for silver and tea and explore the key sights in the old town such as the Foreigner Street, Wuhua Tower and the City Gates. For dinner, we enjoyed the Crossing-the-bridge noodles (过桥米线), one of the best-known dishes in Yunnan.

Trip report: Fun day at Dali 

Accommodation in Dali: Dali Landscape Hotel

Day 4 (10 September 2024)  - Travel from Dali to Lijiang

The plan for the day is the travel from Dali to Lijiang. On the way to Lijiang, we made a stopover at Xizhou village to visit the morning market.

Bai ladies dressed in their traditional clothes.

Xizhou Old Village (喜洲古镇) is a town with a history of more than 1000 years. It is located just 18 km north of Dali Old Town in Dali City. It is hence worthwhile to pay this town a visit during our road trip from Dali to Lijiang.

Morning market in Xizhou.

Well preserved ancient Bai houses.

Besides the morning market, we saw some preserved ancient Bai houses, visited an embroidery school for the local Bai minority women and tried the local Xizhou pancakes.

Once we arrived at Lijiang, we had lunch at a local restaurant, followed by a visit to the Lijiang Museum to see the Naxi Dongba Cultural Exhibition and the Black Dragon Pool.

Black Dragon Pool is listed in the Collections of Famous Pools of China because of its beauty.

We ended the day exploring Lijiang Ancient Town (丽江古城) where our hotel is located. Lijiang Ancient Town is indeed a famous city with long history and splendid culture. It was a former trading town and a stop for traders carrying goods on the historic Tea Horse Road. It is very rare in China that such well-preserved minority ancient city still exists.

View of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from Lijiang Ancient Town.

Exploring Lijiang with local guide.

With the guide, we visited the Sifang Street (四方街), Sanyan Well, Yican Well, the Water Wheel, several bridges and Lion Hill.

Sifang Street is noisy and “very happening” at night.

Giant Water Wheel in Lijiang Ancient Town.

The old town was quite busy in the afternoon and evening with an active atmosphere of the lights and crowd. We had Lijiang Preserved Spare Ribs (腊排骨) Hotpot, one of the traditional delicacies in Lijiang, at the popular Sakura Restaurant.

One of the photo spots in Sakura Restaurant.

Trip Report: Exploring Xizhou Viilage on our way from Dali to Lijiang.

Trip report: Black Dragon Pool and Lijiang Museum.

Trip report: Exploring Lijiang Ancient Town

Accommodation in Lijiang: Doof (also known as DuoFu) Resort Hotel.

The hotel is conveniently located next to the South Gate of Lijiang Ancient City. It is beautifully decorated like the rest of the ancient town.

Spacious hotel lobby.

Our room in the Lijiang Duofu Resort.

Courtyard based on traditional architecture.

Main entrance.

Passageway leading to rooms on both sides. 

 

Day 5 ( 11 September 2024) – Day trip to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Blue Moon Valley and Baisha Village.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is a spectacle of nature's beauty, with its 13 snow-capped peaks stretching across the horizon like a majestic white Chinese dragon. We ascended by cable car to the Glacier Park at 4506 meters above sea level. 

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

We hiked about 40 minutes to an observation deck at 4680 meters. Unfortunately, the mountain top was cloudy during our visit.  

At the highest point that is accessible on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

After visiting the mountain, we took a shuttle bus to reach Blue Moon Valley, a beautiful valley next to the mountain. The water in the valley is from melting snow of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Amazing natural white water terraces are the highlights.

Beautiful water terraces at Blue Moon Lake.

Blue Moon Valley, a beautiful valley next to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

After a hot pot lunch, we made a stop at Baisha Village (白沙村) on our way back to Lijiang.  

Exploring the streets of Baisha Village.

Baisha Murals.

Our planned activity at the village is to see the famous Baisha Murals and visit a local Naxi family to experience making the Naxi pancakes.

Making Naxi pancakes in the home of a Naxi family.

Naxi pancake is a popular food for the Naxi nationality. It can be eaten for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Locals call it Naxi baba. In the home of a local Naxi family, we experienced making our Naxi pancakes as the main dish, together with some other Naxi dishes for dinner.

We had time to explore Lijiang Ancient Town again in the evening.

Lijiang Old Town at night.

Trip report: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Blue Moon Valley.

Trip report: Visit Baisha Village near Lijiang.

Trip report: Evening in Lijiang Old Town.

Accommodation in Lijiang: Doof (also known as DuoFu) Resort Hotel.

Day 6 (12 September 2024) – Hiking at Tiger Leaping Gorge

We travelled from Lijiang to Tiger Leaping Gorge to start our 2D/1N hike at Tiger Leaping Gorge.

The plan for Day 1 is to hike from Qiaotou to Naxi Family Guest House to have lunch and on to Tea Horse Guesthouse where we will stay for the night. 

Overview of the hiking trail on Day 1.

View of the bridges over the Jinsha River near Qiaotou.

On our way to Naxi Guesthouse.

Courtyard of Naxi Guesthouse where we had lunch.

The distance is about 15 km and approximately 5 hours and includes the steep 28-bends between Naxi Guesthouse and Tea Horse Guesthouse.

Conquering the 28 Bends.

Gorge-ous scenery after the 28 Bends.

Viewing the sunset from Tea Horse Guesthouse.

Trip Report: Day 1 of Tiger Leaping Gorge Hike from Qiaotou to Tea Horse Guesthouse.

Accommodation along the hike: Tea Horse Guesthouse.

Our original plan was to stay at Halfway Guesthouse but our local tour agency was unable to secure a room there for us. They booked us into Tea Horse Guesthouse instead. Because of that ,we had a slight change of plan and skipped the hike to Middle Gorge the next day due to shortage of time.

Tea Horse Guesthouse is a good place to stay on the Tiger Leaping Gorge trail. The rooms are basic but the views of the mountains from the guesthouse is fantastic.

Arriving at Tea Horse Guesthouse at the end of Day 1 of Tiger Leaping Gorge hike.

View of the mountains and part of the guesthouse outside of room.

Day 7 (13 September 2024) – Hiking at Tiger Leaping Gorge, see the Upper Gorge and travel to Shangri-La

Day 2 of our Tiger Leaping Gorge hike was to walk from Tea Horse Guesthouse to Tina's Guesthouse. The distance of our hike on this day is about 9.8 km and is mostly flat until towards the end where we descended the mountain to Tina’s Guesthouse. 

I was glad we did the most beautiful part of the trail from Tea Horse Guesthouse to Halfway Guesthouse in the morning.

The trail from Tea Horse Guesthouse to Halfway Guesthouse is extremely scenic and was best done in the morning.

Halfway Guesthouse is a good place to rest and have iced coffee and cakes. We could enjoy the excellent views from their roof terrace and even from the toilets!

Roof terrace of Halfway Guesthouse is a popular photo spot.

From Halfway to Tina’s guesthouse, we passed through some pretty waterfalls and canyons on the way.

Crossing a waterfall on the way from Halfway Guesthouse to Tina's Guesthouse.

After lunch at Tina’s Guesthouse, we made a stopover at the Tiger Leaping Gorge Entrance to explore the Upper Gorge and see the roaring Jinsha River. This is the place where it is said that a tiger leaped across the river using the large rock in the middle.

Fast and turbulent Jinha River at the Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge.

It was late afternoon when we travelled from Tiger Leaping Gorge to Shangri-La. Our hotel in Shangri-La is the The 5th Meteorite Light-year Hotel which is conveniently located at the edge of the the Dukezong Ancient Town. 

We have dinner at Dukezong Ancient Town and had some time to explore the town on our own.

Trip report: Day 2 of Tiger Leaping Gorge Hike from Tea Horse Guesthouse to Tina’s Guesthouse.

Trip report: Visiting the Upper Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Trip report: Evening in Shangri-La’s Dukezong Ancient Town.

Accommodation at Shangri-La: The 5th Meteorite Light-year Hotel. 

Our hotel at Shangri-La is the 5th Meteorite Lightyear Hotel located in the northwest corner of Dukezong ancient city. It is convenientle located just next to the North gate which is the main gateway to the ancient city.

Exterior of the hotel reflecting the Tibetan style architecture.

The room which came with oxygen supply which was a bonus since Shangri-La is located at 3,000 meters elevation and people could suffer from altitude sickness.

 

Day 8 (14 September 2024) – Explore attractions in Shangri-La and travel by air to Kunming

  

The activities for the day is to visit Potatso National Park, Songzanlin Monastery and Dukezong Old Town before taking the late flight our from Shangri-La to Kunming.

Potatso (also known as Pudacuo) National Park covers a total area of nearly 2,000 square kilometers. We only have time to see Lake Shudu. It is one of the largest fresh water lakes on the Diqing plateau.

Shudu Lake in Potatso (also known as Pudacuo) National Park.

At the Songzanlin Monastery, we had lunch in the home of a local Tibetan family before visiting the monastery.

Lunch in the dining hall of a Tibetan home.

Songzanlin Monastery is the largest Tibetan Buddhist lamasery in Yunnan Province. Occupying an area of 33.3 hectares, Songzanlin was built in the style of Potala Palace in Lhasa and represents the Tibetan culture, housing Buddhist statues and many precious cultural treasures. 

Songzanlin Monastery located on top of a hill.

Turning the prayer wheel at Songzanlin Monastery.

A must do is to take walk along Lamuyangcuo Lake that serves as a natural mirror to the magnificent Songzanlin Monastery.

We ended the day with a guide tour of Shangri-La’s Dukezong Old Town. This ancient town is filled with Tibetan style old houses. A must see attraction is the Giant Prayer Wheel located on top of Guishan Park.

Giant Prayer Wheel located on top of Guishan Park.

We had dinner at the Three Brother's Cafe before transferring to the Diqing Airport to take a late flight (China Eastern Airlines MU5932) to Kunming city.    Watching the local people dancing in Dukezong Old Town from the terrace of the Three Brother's Cafe.

Trip report: Pudacuo (also known as Potatso) National Park in Shangri-La.

Trip report: Lunch at a traditional Tibetan family's house in Conggulong Village.

Trip report: Our visit to Songzanlin Monastery.

Trip report: Guided tour and dinner at Shangri-La’s Dukezong Old Town.

Accommodation at Kunming: Cachet Boutique Hotel.   

Day 9 (15 September 2024) – Morning in Kunming and travel back to Singapore.

Shopping for flower cakes at Kunming Old Street.

We spent a lazy morning at Kunming Old Street, did some shopping (bought Yunnan’s popular flower cakes) before taking the 3.50PM TG 613 Thai Airways flight back to Singapore with a stopover at Bangkok.

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Exploring Kunming city center – Green Lake Park, Moon and Chalice, Yike Yin restaurant and Nanping shopping street

7 September 2024

We started our vacation to Yunnan with a flight to Kunming, the capital and largest city of the province of Yunnan in China. Our hotel in Kunming is the Cachet Boutique Hotel, located in the city centre. After checking into the hotel at about 4 PM, we had the rest of the day to explore the city. 

There are several lakes and gardens around Kunming and we chose to go to Green Lake Park, also known as Cui Hu Park (翠湖公园), since it is nearest to our hotel. We booked a taxi ride using the integrated taxi booking (DiDi) function within the WeChat mobile app.

** WeChat or Weixin in Chinese is a Chinese instant messaging, social media, and mobile payment app developed by Tencent.

** DiDi is the Chinese equivalent of Uber and it is available in English.

Our taxi ride seemed to take a long time through the heavy and chaotic downtown traffic on a Saturday afternoon. Electric bikes, scooters and motorcycles were seen zipping across junctions and pedestrians crossing. It was amazing to see that the riders wore no helmets and kids were riding with adults on these bikes. Chaotic it may seem to us, the locals took it all in their stride.

Taxi is relatively cheap in Kunming. Only 14.5 RMB and payment was by WeChat Pay, a function within the WeChat app. The Wechat app is very impressive with many integrated functions within.

Green Lake (Cui Hu) Park

We entered Cui Hu Park via the South gate. There are many eateries and cafes located in the area. We were tempted to go into one of these cafes for coffee but I said, “There are tea houses within the park”. So we forego the coffee break and headed into park.

Beautiful entrance to Cui Hu (Green Lake) Park at the south side.

We were immediately fascinated by a large lake filled with large lotus plants on our right.

We were at the end of summer, so only a few flowers were left.

We headed towards the center of the park along a path lined with willow trees and crossed a stone bridge called the “Swallow Bridge”.

Willow trees and lotus plants as seen from the Swallow Bridge.

Photographers were offering their services and they offered props for the photo shoot, including a boat in the lake complete with misty smoke effects.    

One of the props offered by photographers at the park. The duck is real and not a prop!

The weather was nice and comfortable for evening stroll. Kunming is nicknamed the "Spring City" thanks to its mild climate. As it was a Saturday, many locals were out and about in the park and there was a festive kind of vibe.    

We tried some street food, namely lamb puff and mini buns. These were quite tasty. Unfortunately, we could not find any suitable tea house or cafe and had to make do with bottled water that we brought along.

The park consists of a group of 4 small sub-lakes linked by bridges in the traditional style. Bridges and pavilions cross the islands of Cui Hu (Green Lake) park.

There were boats available for rent at one of the lakes.

On another lake, there were kids playing inside floating roller-balls. The roller-ball is floating plastic barrel-like device. We stood and watched the kids having fun. It would cost 20 RMB for 5 minutes of fun. 

Water roller ball for kids in Cui Hu lake.

We left the Green Lake Park via the West gate and took a walk down some side streets. There are shops selling the popular Kunming pastries known as the flower cakes and also moon cakes. This year, the Mid-Autumn Festival, a very important festival in China, lands on Tuesday, September 17 which was a few days away. Moon cakes are the food of choice on this holiday. We bought some Yunnan style ham-pied and rose-pied moon cakes to try.

Walking back towards the South gate, we passed by a lady and an elderly man doing Chinese calligraphy with a giant brush on the side walk.

Promenade on the western side of the park.

Calligraphy on the side walk.

We also saw an impressive yellow building that was the History Museum of Yunnan Military Academy and School. Unfortunately the museum was closed at this time. Further down was another official looking building with a MIG-21 fighter jet parked in front.

Yunnan Military Academy is a historical building and is also a museum.

Exploring Kunming Old Street

We took a short walk to the Yunnan Monument to the People's Heroes. The area around was quite crowded and lively. People were dancing to loud music in the plaza.

Many were also snapping photos next to a pair of narrow, yellow and crescent-shaped buildings. This iconic crescent-shaped building was built to commemorate the Allies’ victory in WW 2 and is now operating as the Moon and Chalice Boutique Hotel. 

Locals and visitors sitting on the steps leading to Yunnan Monument to the People's Heroes.  

This iconic narrow, yellow and crescent-shaped building is actually a hotel, the Moon and Chalice Boutique Hotel. This photo shows the East side.
West side of the building.

Locals dancing in the plaza in front of the Yunnan Monument to the People's Heroes. 


There are many restaurants and eateries in this area known as the Kunming Old Street. I had done some research and ear-marked the Yi Ke Yin Old House Restaurant as our place for dinner. 

Street food and souvenir stalls are abundant in the old town.

  

Dinner at Yi Ke Yin Kunming Old House Restaurant (一颗印昆明老房子餐厅)

         

We went to a famous old building located within central Kunming for dinner. Kunming Old House Restaurant is a 100-years-old Qing-dynasty style building originally constructed in 1852. 

Entrance to the Yi Ke Yin Kunming Old House Restaurant.

Entering and walking past the usual screen wall of the building was like walking through a time tunnel. We found ourselves standing in the middle of a courtyard that seemed centuries ago, except for some tall modern buildings peeking from behind the old tiled roofs of the two-storied building around us.

Open courtyard inside the restaurant.

The architecture is based on the “Si he yuan” residences, commonly found in Northern China, where there are buildings on four sides with a central courtyard in the middle. The courtyard compounds are called Yi ke Yin (一颗印), which is Chinese for 'seal' because when viewed from above, the layout resembles the familiar shape of the square seal to be seen on traditional Chinese documents and paintings. 

We were early, so we were offered the option of sitting inside one of the rooms or in the open courtyard. We chose to sit in the open space of the central patio under the elves of the old buildings to enjoy the views of the red lanterns and the cool air of Kunming.

Red Chinese lanterns all round the courtyard adds to the ambience.

The vintage restaurant serves authentic Yunnan delicacies, including the famous local dish called the steamed pot chicken or Qiguoji (汽锅鸡). We ordered the small pot for 88 RMB and the serving is enough for 3 to 4 persons.

Qiguoji (汽锅鸡) is one of the famous dishes in Yunnan. It has a history of over 200 years in southern Yunnan.

The dish is basically chicken soup steamed in clay pot. The light, delicious, herbal tasting chicken soup is reputed for its benefits, such as nourishing the body, replenishing blood, and enhancing appetite. We just drank the soup as the chicken meat in the soup was mostly bland, with all the flavours and goodness extracted into the broth.

Another Yunnan’s famous dishes we tried is the Yiliang (宜良) roasted duck. The traditional and savory delicacy said to have a history of over 600 years and originated from the town of Yiliang. Apparently, someone in Yiliang went to Beijing during the Qing dynasty to learn how to make  Beijing-style roast duck. When he returned to Yiliang, he opened a restaurant using his own adaptation of the Beijing method to roast the area’s small local ducks, and the rest is history.

The Yiliang duck is a smaller version of the more famous Beijing duck, but tasted just as good with crispy skin and tender meat.

It only cost 58 RMB for a whole small duck!    

The roast duck is served with flowered spring onions, pepper and salt dip, and duck sauce. Unlike Beijing duck, Yiliang duck is meant to be eaten on its own, without pancakes or buns. It goes down well with a glass of cold Kunming beer.

Based on past reviews on the internet, we also ordered the steamed perch. The Cantonese style steamed fish with ginger, soya sauce, spring onions was excellent and the fish was very fresh. Probably a live fish was used for this 168 RMB dish.

Cantonese style steamed fish with ginger, soya sauce, spring onions.

For vegetables, we ordered the bracken. It looked and tasted like the midin we had in Kuching, Sarawak. In Sarawak, the midin is a wild fern that thrives in tropical, swampy regions and is commonly stir-fried with garlic, chilli and shrimp paste. Here in Kunming, this bracken was cooked with chilli and brown bean paste to create similar effect.

Bracken with brown bean sauce for 39 RMB.

Unfortunately the dish was served as a cold dish. I would prefer it warm.

The crunchy vegetable was well balanced with enough spiciness from the red chilli slices and yet salty from brown beans sauce. It was quite delicious actually and the portion was huge.

Overall, our dinner at the Yi Ke Yin Kunming Old House Restaurant was enjoyable. The ambience is nice and the food is definitely value for money!  Highly recommended for visitors to Kunming.       
 

Nanping Pedestrian Street

The sky was dark when we arrived at the Nanping Pedestrian Street. But not the city centre!

Kunming city center was brightly lit and people were still out and about. Like in Singapore, the malls and shops are opened till 10 pm. We had ample time to check out some stores.

Brightly lit Kunming city center full of malls and tall buildings.

People are dancing in the central plaza. A sign that the locals are generally contented and happy people.

Although we could have taken a taxi back to our hotel, we decided to walk. I felt safe even walking along the smaller back streets of Kunming to our hotel at night.

Overall, my first impression of Kunming is very positive. It is safe and clean and people are friendly. The city has modern amenities and yet there are enough of preserved old buildings for the locals and visitors to appreciate its history. A pleasant place to visit. 

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