Evening at Ao Nang Beach and dinner at the Kodam Kitchen.

15 August 2022

  Iconic bronze sculpture of a sailfish and fisherman at the mid point of Ao Nang Beach. 

Ao Nang Beach may not be one of the best beaches to watch the sun set at Krabi but an evening at the beach at low tide was quite an experience.

We made it a point to arrive at Ao Nang Beach by 6.30 PM to enjoy the Krabi sunset. The sky was cloudy on the evening that we visited. While we did not managed to actually see the sun goes down, the twilight “blue hour” light show on the beach is magical and is a photographer’s dream.

Ao Nang beach in the evening, just before sunset. 

Best time for watching sunset at the beach is during low tide. The light from the sky reflecting off the glistening wet sand adds to the beauty. 

 

We were entertained by a young man performing a fire dance on Ao Nang Beach.

This was the best sunset we saw on this trip. No thanks to the weather on the other days. 

We have made reservations for dinner at 7.30 PM at Kodam Kitchen, a restaurant that was recommended to us by a previous visitor to Krabi. They have three types of seating – Outdoor, Thai Cabana and Indoor Shaded Area. We made a reservation for the Cabana as we were unsure of how the weather would turn out. August is the rainy monsoon season and we were lucky that the weather remained good.

Kodam Kitchen is located in the back streets of downtown Ao Nang and is a short walk from the beachfront. Kodam Kitchen serves delicious, authentic Thai cuisine in the outdoor alfresco style seating area.

The restaurant was already crowded and bustling when we arrived. We were quickly seated in the cabana by the entrance by a staff who seemed to be in a rush to be everywhere at the same time.

For drinks, the Tom Yum Martini is certainly unusual and worth a try. This is white rum with galangal, kaffir lime leaves, lemon grass, palm sugar, lime juice and topped with fresh lime.

Tom Yum Martini at the Kodam Kitchen.

We ordered the highly recommended pan fried marinated pork belly with salt, pepper and kaffir lime leaves. It comes with dipping sauce and is a very tasty dish.

Moo Kua Kluae - pan fried marinated pork belly with salt, pepper and kaffir lime leaves.

The seafood that we ordered is fresh and nicely cooked in our favorite Thai style cooking.  

Steamed seabass with chilli and lime sauce.

  Pan Grilled Marinated Prawns with butter garlic and pepper. 

For the curry dish, the Massaman Curry was excellent. 

 Massaman Chicken Curry. 

Tom Yum Chicken.

 The classic Thai mango with sticky rice dessert.

Deep fried bananas fritters with chocolate sauce and a small tub of coconut flavoured ice-cream (not shown).

Overall, I would give high marks for the quality of the Thai food served although the price is relatively higher compared to similar restaurants in Ao Nang.

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Hike up the Dragon Crest Mountain in Krabi

17 August 2022

This was our first morning at Tubkaek Beach and it was drizzling a little while we enjoyed the splendid breakfast at the Amari Vogue Krabi Resort.

After breakfast, the sun came out and this allowed my son and I to proceed with our plan to hike up Dragon Crest Mountain, while my wife enjoys the facilities at the resort.

Besides the beach, one of the must do when staying at the Tubkaek Beach area is hiking. Dragon Crest Mountain has one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the south of Thailand.

Dragon Crest (known by the locals as Khao Ngon Nak) is one of the most famous viewpoints in Krabi, offering really spectacular views of Krabi and its surrounding islands.

Besides the view, climbing Dragon Crest is one of the things my son wanted to do to help him prepare for his Mount Kinabalu climb later in September this year. The mountain is 565 meters above sea level and offers a tough 4.7 km hike to the top. 

One good thing about staying at a hotel along TubKaek Beach is that we could walk to the start point of the hiking trail within 10 minutes. The Khao Ngon-Nak Nature Trail is located within a small National Park at the end of Tubkaek Beach. 

Every person attempting the climb will have to register their name, vehicle number, mobile phone number, country of origin, time of entrance and exit with the park rangers. We were also to note down the phone numbers of the rangers in case of emergencies.

While signing the registry, I noticed that we were the fourth group on this morning.  There were a group of Thais, Scots and Dutch before us.

Entrance to the park used to be free of charge but this time round, visitors have to pay a 200 Baht National Park fee per person in cash. So don’t forget to bring some cash!

Father and son at the start of the trail at 9.45 AM. My son volunteered to carry our daypack.

It is also a good idea to take a photo of the trail map to help us keep track of our progress during the climb. From the map, it is supposed to be a 4.7 km distance to the peak, with a first viewpoint at the 2.5 km park and another at the 3.5 km mark.

The weather was sunny after the morning drizzle but the air in the lush forest at the foot of the Dragon Crest mountain was fresh and cool.  

The first part of the walk was easy with only a slight gradient. Although the ground was wet from the rain, it was not muddy as the soil on the track is actually sandy and porous. We had to be careful of the wet rocks though. Some could be slippery when wet.

About 500m into the hike, the trail became steeper and steeper., and the hike became tougher.

Good hiking shoes are essential although we were overtaken by a later group, with the guy wearing flip flops!

The trail is well sign-posted, so there is no fear of getting lost in the jungle. 

I was soon panting and perspiring like an ice cold bucket in the humid forest. We had brought only half a liter of water for each person. This was a mistake as we were perspiring much more than usual.

I was also pleasantly surprised by the lack of mosquitoes or other biting insects. In fact, we did not spot any wildlife, except for the noise from the cicadas and insects that produces what sounded like a buzzing chainsaw.

After about 35 minutes and somewhere near the 2 km mark, we came to the first set of wooden stairs. 

Recently uprooted tree at the bottom of the wooden stairs. 

The first section with 63 steps.

There were more uphill sections before we came to the second set of wooden stairs. The bottom section of the stairs were damaged but still accessible.

 Second sections of the stairs.  

I counted 112 steps, excluding those that had fallen.

Some parts of the trails are basically rocks and tree roots forming “steps”. 

There are of ropes to help us at the steeper parts. 

We soon arrived at the first viewpoint, located near the 2.5 km mark. This was a good place to take a breather.   

The view from the first viewpoint. 

The trail became less steep after this point.

Interesting signboard up in the mountain – call 1192 for Lost Car?

We saw some trees with reddish trunks. A signage describes this as the auburn zone, because of the colours of the trees’ bark.

   

We seemed to be walking on a ridge and could feel cool breeze through the trees.

We could get sneak previews of the awesome landscape beneath us through the trees. By now, there was little phone signal. 

We arrived at the Khao Ngon Nak Scenic point at about 11.50 AM. It has taken us about 2 hours to get to this point.

 Khao Ngon Nak Scenic viewpoint.    

Getting some energy replenished. But by now, I was running low on water.

But this viewpoint is still not the peak of the Dragon Crest mountain. Continuing on the trail to the right of the viewpoint, there is a steep trail up some rocks.

  

 

Getting up to the peak requiring scrambling up this set of rocks. 

About 15 minutes later, we arrived at what seems to be the peak.

We took time to explore the area and there are a few rocks and ledges offering different vantage points of the surrounding countryside.

One of the more dangerous vantage points with a protruding overhanging rock was fenced off for safety reasons.  

We found a nice huge rock that overlooks the coast. We could see the Railay Peninsula, Ao Nang Beach, Nopparat Tharat Beach and the offshore islands (namely Tub, Poda and Chicken Island).

   A fellow hiker from the Netherlands helped to snap this photo for us. 

There was rain forecasted in the afternoon.  We could see some dark storm clouds approaching in the distant as we started on our return trip.

Getting down the steep mountain trail was easier on our lungs but took a toll on my aging knees.

We met a few more groups of hikers making their way up despite the imminent storm. 

The sky finally burst when we were about 500 meters from our end point. Thunder clapped above us and I was keeping a lookout for falling branches or trees!

Soaked to the skin, we arrived at the start point of the trail and took refuge at the snack shop at the Park’s entrance. There were a few other hikers who arrived before us, including the young man from Netherlands. My thoughts went to those who were still on the mountain, caught in the torrential rain.

Like all heavy storms, this one did not last long. The sky soon cleared enough for us to walk back to Amari Vogue Resort  while our fellow hikers zoomed off in their rental motorbikes.

We completed our hike in about 5 hours.  Approximately 2 and half hours to go up,  2 hours to come down and 30 minutes to enjoy the views at the top.

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Our stay at the Amari Vogue Krabi located at Tubkaek Beach

16 to 19 August 2022

In my previous trips to Krabi, I have stayed at beach resorts near Ao Nang Beach, Nopparat Tharat Beach and also Klong Muang Beach. On this third visit to Krabi, I decided that I must stay a few nights at the secluded and private Tubkaek Beach.

There are a few 4 and 5 stars luxury resorts located at the exclusive beach. So, there are much lesser people. Compare to Ao Nang beach or Nopparat Tharat Beach, Tubkaek Beach offers serenity everywhere. No crowds, calm sea, secluded beach allowing peaceful watching of spectacular sunset.

After staying a couple of nights at the Panan Krabi Resort in Ao Nang Beach, we transferred to the Amari Vogue Krabi Resort for the remaining of our stay in Krabi. The Amari Vogue Krabi resort is one the luxurious resorts located along the Tubkaek Beach.

Terrace at the lobby with sofas and lounge chairs overlooking the hotel’s ground. 

Upon arrival, we were treated to views of the Andaman Sea from the lobby. The resort was located on sloping ground, with the road access and lobby located on highest level.

Views of the beautiful tropical landscaping in the hotel from the lobby terrace. 

Our Deluxe Twin Room at the Amari Vogue Krabi Resort that came with two queen size beds.

Our room was located at the uppermost floor of the resort.  The bathroom came with a tub and an opening that allows users of the tub/bathroom to look into the room and vice versa. We kept this opening shut throughout the duration of our stay.

Getting to the pool area and beach from our room requires the use gentle sloping stairs.  More guestrooms are located on both sides of this pathway and the hotel facilities like the Spa, Lotus restaurant and swimming pools are located in the middle.  There are no lifts. Usage of the stairs is required each day to get to the swimming pools and beach.

View of the main staircases linking the lobby at the top to the swimming pools and beach located below.  

 

Swimming Pools

There are three swimming pools in Amari Vogue Krabi, including a jet pool at the top level.

        

Water jet pool at the highest level.

    

Shallow pool at the middle level. No one was swimming here. 

Main swimming pool next to the beach.

The Marco’s Restaurant and Bar is located next to the pool as well. 

Infinity edged pool.

 

Beach

Tubkaek Beach is secluded and quiet, being a private beach. There is little boat traffic. The water is shallow during high tide with little waves. Perfect for kids or non swimmers to take a dip.

  Beach area just outside Amari Vogue Krabi.

 

Lounge chairs at the beach.

Pak Bia and Hong Islands are just across the sea from the resort. In fact, it is nearer and hence faster and cheaper to get to these islands from Tubkaek Beach, than from Ao Nang Beach.

Views of the Hong Islands seen from the poolside at Amari Vogue Krabi Resort.

 

Long-tail boats to Pak Bia and Hong Islands could be chartered from the beach. Only a few long-tail boats are moored here, with fixed, published rates for a day trip to the offshore islands.

 Enjoying the long swing outside the neighbouring Banyan Tree Resort.  

  

What we did at Amari Vogue Krabi

Our typical day at the Amari starts with a sumptuous buffet breakfast at the Lotus Restaurant. There are indoor as well as outdoor seats.

Interior of the Lotus Restaurant where buffet breakfast is served daily.

There are options for Thai breakfast that includes Dim Sum prawns, Boiled rice soup with chicken, pork or fish, Thai style omelet with rice, Pad Sie-Ew with chicken or pork and Pad Kapaow with chicken or pork.

My favourite is the noodle station serving up rice noodles, fish and meat balls in delicious broth.

There is also the standard Western Breakfast.   

Staff at the egg station can cook up egg Benedict, omelette with fillings of our choice, plus hard and soft boiled eggs. There are pancakes or waffles served with maple syrup or chocolate sauce.

Interesting local egg dish from the egg station.

 

What we did on Day 1

On our first day after arrival, we went for a couple’s massage at the Chi Spa with the resort while my son chilled in the hotel room.

 Lobby of the Chi Spa where we did the paperwork, including choosing the oil to be used for our massage. 

A feet scrub and wash before lying down on the massage table. 

The massage room, with soft music and serene settings. 

The massage was okay in my opinion. Not the best we had in Thailand but generally meet my expectations.

In the evening, we took a walk along the 2 km stretch of beach during low tide. There are only a few other people on the beach. All are guests of one of the resorts.

We ate at the Di Mare Italian Trattoria restaurant, one the beachfront restaurants in the Tubkaek Boutique Resort.

I have a separate post on what we did in the evenings in Tubkaek Beach here.

What we did on Day Two

Besides the beach, one of the must do when staying at the Tubkaek Beach area is hiking. Dragon Crest Mountain has one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the south of Thailand.

Dragon Crest (known by the locals as Khao Ngon Nak) is one of the most famous viewpoints in Krabi, offering really spectacular views of Krabi and its surrounding islands. 

After breakfast, my son and I to proceed with our plan to hike up Dragon Crest Mountain, while my wife enjoys the facilities at the resort.

Having a well earned rest at the summit of Dragon Crest Mountain.

I have a separate post on our hike up Dragon Crest here.

       

What we did on Day Three

My original plan was to do a boat trip to the Hongs Islands on this day. The weather was sunny and the sea was calm. However, Sam was feeling a little unwell and he wanted us to proceed without him. My wife and I had been to Hong Islands in our previous trip, so we decided to stay at the hotel and chill by the pool instead.

After my exertions hiking the grueling Dragon Crest Nature Trail the day before, the first thing I did at the swimming pool was to try out the jacuzzi. 

Soothing the tired leg muscles at the jacuzzi pool.

After that, we chilled out with cold drinks at the main pool. We had the pool all to ourselves until late in the morning when some other guests arrived.

Drinks from Marco’s Restaurant and Bar

Lunch was at the Marco’s Restaurant and Bar. This restaurant serves both Thai and Western dishes. 

Seafood Risotto

We cannot come to a seaside resort and not take a dip in the sea.  Tubkaek Beach is perfect for a dip at high tide. With a very gradual slopping sandy beach, we could walk 100 m out to sea and it is only waist deep. There is no boat traffic and gentle waves. Perfect for non swimmers and young children. 

The weather could turn suddenly in the rainy season in Krabi. Just as we get getting comfortable on the lounger by the sea, rain clouds started approaching from the horizon.

It is fun watching the hotel staff scrambling to tie everything down and prepare for the storm. Similarly we had to abandon our time on the beach and head for our room.

Approaching storm clouds off Tubkaek Beach.

Rain came and went fast. By evening, we were back at the beach for a sundowner before dinner at the Arundina restaurant, located in the neighbouring resort.

Pre-dinner drinks at the Marco’s.

View of the sunset from the Arundina Restaurant located at the Tubkaek Boutique Resort.

I have a separate post on what we did in the evenings in Tubkaek Beach here.

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