Where we stayed at Ao Nang – Pakasai Resort and Spa

During our 8 days trip to Krabi for a beachside vacation, my wife and I stayed 3 nights at Ao Nang and another 4 nights at Klong Muang Beach.

For a beach and seaside holiday with good access and day trips to the attractive offshore islands in the Andaman Sea off Krabi, the seaside town of Ao Nang would be the best place to stay instead of Krabi Town.

Ao Nang Beach is one of the most “happening place” in Krabi. The main road running along Ao Nang Beach is lined with shops, restaurants and tour desks. Ao Nang Beach is one of the places where visitors could board the long-tail boats to offshore islands like Tup, Poda and Railay Peninsula.

Long-tail boats at Ao Nang Beach.

Ao Nang Beach Road is lined with shops, restaurants and tour desks.

A tuk tuk passing by the Swordfish Statue along Ao Nang Beach.

If you signed up for a boat trip to the islands or a day tour to explore Krabi from one of the numerous tour agencies, you will likely get free hotel pick-ups if you stay at the Ao Nang area. Most tour agencies charge an additional fee of 100 to 200 THB per person for pick-ups from hotels located along Klong Muang beach or Tubkaek Beach. Hence Ao Nang would be a good place to stay when exploring the islands and attractions of Krabi.

Fits our Budget and delivers Value for money?

Since I was using Ao Nang as a base to explore the islands and attractions of Krabi, there is no need to splurge on a luxurious resort in Ao Nang.

On the other hand, I would need a hotel that is fit for use and delivers value for money.

I narrowed down my search to hotels that are conveniently located very close to Ao Nang Beach, with easy access to food, transportation and shops.

I shortlisted a few hotels and finally booked the Pakasai Resort and Spa based on the good reviews and competitive pricing.

I managed to book a Deluxe Double room, inclusive of taxes, breakfast and free Wi-Fi for 2115 THB per night.

 

Why I chose Pakasai?

When it comes to choosing a place to stay, its location is one of my most important considerations. Pakasai scores high since it is located within walking distance to 2 beaches, namely Ao Nang and Nopparat Thara. 

Just north of Ao Nang Beach is Nopparat Thara Beach. This is quieter than Ao Nang and ideal for those wanting a little more peace and quiet.

We walked to both beaches in the evenings to view the spectacular Krabi sunsets and have dinner at the seafood restaurants along the coast.

Ao Nang Seafood Street with plenty of seafood restaurants next to the beach.

Twilight viewed from Noppharat Thara Beach.

My experience at the Pakasai

From Krabi International Airport, it took us 40 minutes to travel by taxi to Ao Nang. Pakasai is well known locally and hence the taxi driver had no problem getting us to the hotel.

Seating area at lobby of Pakasai Resort.

Check-in was swiftly done by the English speaking staff and we were escorted to our room, located just above the lobby. There is no lift in this hotel, so I was glad our room was on the second floor.

Our Deluxe Double room was well furnished and spacious. What stood out was the bathtub at the balcony where we could have a semi-outdoor soaking. This is in addition to the usual shower cubicle with rain shower inside the room.

Spacious bath area with bathrobes, toiletries, ironing board, umbrella and picnic basket with 2 beach mats.

Bathtub at the balcony with table and sofa.

A picnic basket with two beach mats was provided. This was put to good use when we took a long tail boat to enjoy the white sand beaches on the Railay Peninsula.

The few things that were disappointing were the small size of flat screen TV (a 40 inch flat screen LED TV would have been great!) and the hard bed (which I found to be typical of hotels in Thailand). The air-conditioning unit in my room was also noisy.

Breakfast was served at a restaurant by a pond teeming with ever hungry Tilapia fish. It was nice to enjoy a casual breakfast surrounded by greenery, with rustling of leaves in the breeze, gurgling sound of the man-made waterfall amidst rainforest like setting with birds and cicada calls. Plus soft piped-in music from the restaurant. 

The breakfast spread was what you would expect from a decent 3 to 4 stars hotel. Nothing to shout about but enough quality and quantity to fill us up.

A brown clay pot with fish food was provided on the viewing platform by the pond.

Fish-feeding was quite popular with the hotel guests. A brown clay pot with fish food was provided on the viewing platform by the pond. There were also a few resident water monitor lizards living under the wooden platform. These lizards prey on the fishes occasionally. I saw a 1.5 meter croc-like monitor lizard grab a Tilapia and ate it in the bushes below us.

Kids will enjoy the playground and cute decorations in the garden.

 

The resort also featured a spa but we did not use. Instead we wandered and explored the beautiful tropical garden within the resort.

Pakasai is known as Krabi's Greenest Resort and the first to be presented with ASEAN Green Hotel Award 2014. The design of the hotel featured green gardens, preserving original homeland trees, minimizing impact on surrounding ecosystems and water resources whilst maximizing the use of open air spaces with natural lighting and fresh air ventilation.

There are also chalets located throughout the spacious resort with tropical gardens, rising up the hillside. Some chalets are located on higher levels, offering good views, but would need a bit of uphill climb to get to.

Climbing the stairs leading to hilltop chalets. No lifts!

View from outside of Chalet 501. One of the highest chalets located within the resort, offering exclusivity, privacy and good views of bay and karsts.

The beach at Ao Nang is not good for swimming or sun tanning because of the boat and human traffic. A good place for a dip and sun tanning would be the hotel’s pool. The Pakasai Resort has a saltwater rooftop pool which we used in the morning before we went for kayaking at Ao Thalane in the afternoon.

Rooftop swimming pool at 8 AM in the morning.  Pool towels provided here could be taken away for our boat trips to the islands.

Pool at 10.30 AM in the morning. Almost all loungers were occupied. Pool staff were friendly and attentive.

Overall, we had a pleasant and comfortable 3 nights stay at the Pakasai Resort and Spa located at Ao Nang. For the price we paid, it was certainly value for money.

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Day trip to Pak Bia, Lading and Hong Islands by private long-tail boat from Klong Muang Beach

25 March 2018

There are many beautiful islands with white sand beaches and crystal clear emerald green waters off the coast of Krabi. A day trip to visit a few of these offshore islands for swimming, kayaking, snorkelling, picnic or just lazing on the white sand beach is a must.

We chose to visit the Hong Islands by private long-tail boat from Klong Muang Beach instead of joining the popular but hectic 4 Islands Tour (which includes stops at Tup Island, Poda Island, Chicken Island and Phra Nang Beach at the Railay Peninsula).

The Hong Islands are a small group of tropical Islands located a short distance up the coast from Ao Nang and just off the shores of Klong Muang Beach. It is hence faster and cheaper to go to Hong Island from Klong Muang Beach than from Ao Nang Beach. Since we were staying a few days at the Nakamanda Resort and Spa, located along Klong Muang Beach, we made our trip from there.

We made a verbal arrangement with a boatman we met on Klong Muang Beach a day before our intended trip. Prices are regulated, fixed and posted on signs along Klong Muang beach.  No need to haggle or bargain with the boatman and no need to pay any deposit.

Prices of private long-tail boat service to various offshore islands from Klong Muang Beach.

We chose to go to Hong Island (including Hong Lagoon), Pak Bia Island and Lading Island. Cost 2300 THB per boat (for 2 persons), payable at the end of the trip. This exclude the National Park fee of 300 THB per person, payable to the rangers located at Hong Island. The journey to the Hong Islands from Klong Muang Beach should take about 30 minutes. 

We left at about 9 AM from the beach just next to our resort. Just like taking the long-tail boat at Ao Nang Beach, we wade out to our long-tail boat in knee deep waters and climbed onto the boat via a metal ladder hung from its side. Our boat was manned by two young men who looked like brothers. They don’t speak English but that is not a problem. They knew the plan and places to visit.

With spray on our faces and wind in our hair, we enjoyed the 40 minutes bumpy ride on the small wooden boat to Koh Pak Bia. It was the furthest island we were visiting on our trip.  We passed by spectacular karst islands of various shapes and sizes.

 

Koh Pak Bia or Pak Bia Island

We landed on a stretch of sandy beach between two islands. There were already 2 speed boats at the beach and no other long-tail boats in sight. So there were not many folks on the island.

Checking out the crystal clear water at Pak Bia Island.

This island is quite scenic, not crowded (yet) and has a few makeshift swings hanging from branches of trees by the beach. The tide was too low for us to swim although the water was crystal clear. We spent some time enjoying the solitude and shooting photos. We left the island just when a few other tour boats arrived. 

Koh Lao Lading or Lading Island

Leaving Pak Bia Island, it was a short ride to Koh Lao Lading or Lading Island.

Our boat making the approach to land on a small beach at Lading Island.

We landed in a quiet cove and walked through a jungle footpath to the main beach a few hundred meters away.

Gorgeous scenery at Lading Island. Sandy beach surrounded by cliffs on both ends and scenic karst seascape beyond.

The main beach was packed full of speedboats and long-tail boats. This beach was very scenic and would be paradise, if not for the large number of boats and people.

One speedboat was blaring out offbeat music. What were they thinking? Disturbing the peace on this island paradise.

Thankfully many of the speedboats soon left and some peace and quiet was restored.

Very scenic beach at Lading Island.

 

We settled down on the white sand beach and I took a swim in the bay. The water was not very clear and I could not see the bottom. Nevertheless, it was still good for a dip to cool down from the hot Krabi sun.

Lading Island would be close to being an island paradise, if not for the crowds. It is paradise no more. A victim of its own beauty.

Hong island

Hong Island was the last island we visited and we spent the most time on this island. We alighted on a floating pontoon, manned by park rangers. Hong Island is part of the Than Bok Khorani national park and a 300 THB national park fee per person was collected on the pontoon.

Floating pontoon and bridge at Hong Island.

It was quite thrilling to walk along the bouncy pontoon bridge to shore. It is safe but a steady pair of legs and steady nerves are needed. I saw a small kid clinging to his mother’s legs in fear at the sight of the floating bridge moving with the waves.

There are 2 beaches separated by a big rock outcrop in the middle. The one near where we landed is not good for swimming since there are some boat traffic. We went to the other beach that was cordoned off for swimming.

The big rock outcrop that we walked past to get to the nice beach for swimming.

This is the beach which is excellent for swimming. A small curved beautiful bay edged by totally scenic rock formations.

There were plenty of trees providing shade at the edge of the beach.

The calm and warm water in the sheltered bay was excellent for swimming. The water was not exactly crystal clear due to the fine sand particles. Nevertheless, I did some snorkelling in this bay.

There were little corals left but I could spot the blue or green lips of a few giant clams amongst rocks, numerous black sea cucumbers on the sandy bottom and some small fishes. Fortunately, there was no sea urchin. And no stinging jelly fish.

Schools of striped fish nicknamed "sergeant major" would come close to us, hoping for hand-outs. We also spotted a school of half-beaks about 1 foot in length. These surface swimmers were shy and stayed clear of us.

Canteen and benches at Hong Island.

Compared to the other islands, Hong Island has more facilities like toilets and canteen with picnic benches. We brought our own water and snacks for lunch and had our picnic by the beach instead.

There was also a nature trail to explore.  There were some remnants of wrecked boats and a plaque to remember those who lost their lives to the tsunami that hit Hong Island on 26 December 2004. It also served to remember the survivors and rescuers who toiled together in the aftermath.

 Nature trail at Hong Island.

I was fortunate to spot a huge water monitor lizard in the bushes while walking the trail.

 

Steep limestone cliff along the nature trail at Hong Island.

There were many signs showing tsunami evacuation route at Hong Island. 

We spent about 2 hours at the beach on Hong Island before returning to our boat. More thrills on the bouncing pontoons!

Before heading back to the mainland, we went into the stunningly beautiful lagoon through a narrow entrance way between the rocks cliffs.

Approaching the entrance to Hong Lagoon. 

Hong Lagoon.

This is Hong Lagoon, a breath-taking natural lagoon surrounded almost all round by majestic limestone formations and a mangrove forest at one side. Hong means “chamber” or “room” in Thailand and this is where the island got its name.

Motor boats (either long-tail or speedboat) can only enter the lagoon around mid-tide when the water depth is around chest level.

 

Anchored boat and people swimming near the mangrove forest at one end of Hong Lagoon.

 

Enjoying a slow ride around the awesome Hong Lagoon.

There is no beach. Although there were boats that stopped in the middle of the lagoon and people wading in the green water, we told our boatmen to just circle slowly round the lagoon.

 

Our boat approaching the narrow pathway between the rocks cliffs to exit the lagoon.

We left the lagoon via the way that we entered. From there, it was a 30 minutes ride back to the Krabi mainland.

Our boatmen landed us at Klong Muang Beach, right in front of Nakamanda Resort and Spa where we boarded in the morning.  We spent the rest of the day lazing by the hotel pool till sunset.

Next up, the beautiful Krabi sunsets from Klong Muang beach.

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Our evenings at Klong Muang Beach in Krabi

After spending three evenings at Ao Nang, we moved to Klong Muang Beach. Compared to Ao Nang, Klong Muang is more secluded, quieter with lesser shopping, dining and nightlife. Perfect place to escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.

An excellent resort hotel located at Klong Muang is the Nakamanda Resort and Spa, our “home away from home” for the next 4 nights. Besides a boat trip to the islands located just off Klong Muang Beach, we spent most of our time relaxing at our luxury resort.

One of the highlights of a Krabi seaside vacation is spending the evenings watching the sun goes down as we strolled down the sandy beach, or on the lounge chair by the hotel’s pool or over a cold drink in one of the beach bars.

We did all three. Although some days were cloudy and on those evenings, we did not get to view the spectacular sunset that Krabi is famous for.

Here are some moments in the four evenings we spent at Klong Muang.

First evening

View of the small island and beach from the roof terrace at the Nakamanda resort. One could walk to the island at low tide but must make it back before the tide returns.

Watching the sun set on our first day at Klong Muang from the beach.

I was trying to capture our long shadows on the beach in front of Nakamanda Resort but the clouds caused our shadows to be slightly diffused.

Low clouds on the horizon.

Ao Nang has its Ao Nang Seafood Street, and Klong Muang has a row of bars and restaurants set right on the sand of Klong Muang Beach. Most of these bars cum restaurants were simply built with bamboo, driftwood, recycled materials and thatch.  Many would grab a beer or cocktail and have a relaxing time watching the sun goes down.

Row of bars and restaurants set right on the sand of Klong Muang Beach.

Pre-dinner passion fruit mojitos at the Sunset Bar on the beach. The passion fruit mojitos were great!

Deep fried sea bass with sweet and sour sauce at the Sunset Bar and Restaurant. The food and drinks at the Sunset Bar were good and reasonably priced too.

While we enjoyed our seafood dinner at the Sunset Bar, a performer was spinning a pair of flaming torches tied to a string on the beach just outside the neighbouring bar.

A drink and dinner on the beach during sunset is a “must-do” when in Klong Muang or Krabi. 

Second evening

On our second day at Klong Muang, we hired a private long-tail boat to take us island hopping. The popular Hong Islands are located just off Klong Muang Beach. We enjoyed the white sand beaches of Hong, Lading and Pakbia Islands before returning to Klong Muang by mid-afternoon.

We spent the rest of our day at the hotel pool and the evening on the beach. There were fewer clouds on the horizon and we managed to see the brilliant globe of the sun dropping slowly down below the horizon.

 

Long-tail boat at the beach next to Nakamanda Resort, Klong Muang Beach.

After the beach got dark, we went for dinner at the Baan Thai Seafood Restaurant, located just across the road from the entrance of Nakamanda Resort.

Grilled squid, Tom Yum Goong (Tom Yum Prawn) Soup and garlic fried rice at Baan Thai Seafood Restaurant.

We picked a medium sized squid displayed on a tray of crushed ice, got it weighed to confirm the price. We chose to have it grilled and served with the spicy Thai seafood dipping sauce.

This restaurant serves great Thai food and seafood at reasonable prices. We went back to this restaurant for lunch (pad thai and pork noodle soup) the next day.

Third evening

Our original plan for the day was to go hike the Dragon Crest or Tab Kak Hang Nak Hill Nature Trail  at Tubkaek Beach. We changed our mind due to the extra hot and humid weather that hit Krabi. We did a morning walk along the long stretch of Klong Muang Beach instead.

This was followed by a 2 hour massage at the hotel’s spa and a late lunch at Baan Thai restaurant.

Once again, the best place to be in the late afternoon, just before sunset, was by the beach.

After the sun had gone down, we went to explore the Beyond Krabi Resort, located next to our hotel. This hotel is very nice, seems larger than Nakamanda and seems to be popular with groups. They had a poolside restaurant offering buffet dinner with a live band on a small stage. 

Pool at the Beyond Krabi Resort at night.

We prefer a quiet place for dinner and chose to have seafood dinner at Bai Tong Restaurant, located on the main road opposite the Beyond Krabi Resort instead.

Don’t let the quiet and almost empty restaurant fool you. This restaurant serves some of the best Thai and seafood in Klong Muang. The food was just as good as the Baan Thai Restaurant a few shops away.

Fresh coconut drinks at the Bai Tong Restaurant.

Prawns with pineapple curry. Deliciously sweet and spicy!

Steamed Sea Bass with lemon and garlic sauce. This dish was so good that we looked up the recipe and tried cooking this dish back home. We followed the restaurant’s method and stuffed a few sticks of lemon grass in the fish’s belly for fragrance.

They sell the fresh seafood by weight, just like at Baan Thai. A sea bass would typically cost about 55 THB per 100g or about 300 to 350 THB per fish.

We enjoyed the steamed sea bass with lemon and garlic sauce. The Spanish family on the next table also ordered this dish. They liked it so much that they asked the restaurant owner for the recipe. The friendly restaurant owner actually invited them into the kitchen to see how the chef prepares the above dish and shared some tips.

Last evening

We spent most of the morning at our hotel villa and the afternoon on the loungers by the hotel’s pool.

View of the beach from the pool of Nakamanda Resort.

Once again, we took a walk on the beach to watch the setting sun and shoot some photos before dinner.

Enjoy a romantic stroll on the beach at twilight.

Pool at the Nakamanda Resort after sunset.

We were deciding between eating at the Kitchen Restaurant within the Nakamanda Resort based on the good reviews or to go across the road to the Bai Tong Restaurant for dinner again.

Bai Tong won.

Our dinner at Bai Tong Restaurant. Squid fried with curry powder, Tom Yum Seafood Soup and deep fried sea bass with pepper and other spices (Yes, sea bass again!)

Once again, we had seafood for dinner in Krabi.

And once again, we had squid and an entire sea bass. We just cannot stop eating the fresh and delicious Thai seafood while in Krabi!

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