Jeju’s Black Pork BBQ and Horse-shaped Lighthouses

7 November 2022

The best way to pamper ourselves after a day of physical workout hiking up and down Hallasan is to enjoy Jeju’s Black Pork BBQ.

 We went to Neulbom Heukdwaeji, one of the larger restaurants in Jeju specialising in this cuisine. There are many similar restaurants but this one comes highly recommended. It is also located on our way back from Hallasan to Jeju City.

The two-storey Neulbom Heukdwaeji restaurant that specialises in black pork barbecue and uses pork only from Jeju Island.

There is a cafe and also sitting area with sofas on the ground floor. We took the escalator up to the second floor where the main restaurant is located. In mainland Korea, one would usually go for Korean beef at a BBQ restaurant. In Jeju, the main protein served in BBQ restaurants is the black pig. 

Jeju’s black pig originated in Manchuria and are carefully bred since the 1400s in Korea to provide the pork’s unique colour, taste, and texture. The meat is redder, does not have the gamely pork smell and the texture is crunchier.

Black pork on sale in Dongmun Market.

The best way to enjoy the meat is to cook it on the BBQ grill, Korean style. The locals like their meat with a bit of fat on it. Hence, the pork belly or samgyeopsal (translated as 3 layers of fat and meat) is the most prized cut.

Our group of 8 persons was seated on a large long table, with 4 persons sharing a grill. It costs 22,000 KWR per 180 grams order of the meat. For my group of 4 sharing a grill, we had 3 orders of 3 pork belly and 1 order of pork collar initially. The pork was so good that we added one more order of the pork collar later on.

4 pieces of thick slab of black pork on the charcoal grill.

Not all BBQ restaurants in Jeju use the charcoal grill for cooking the meat. Some restaurants use gas with a metal hot plate to cook the meat. Neulbom restaurant uses hot charcoal to grill the pork which in my opinion provides better charred flavour from the fat dripping onto the hot coals.

Our meal included ample portions of free side dishes or banchan as shown below.

There is also free flow of crispy fresh lettuce leaves that are to be used to wrap the grilled meat. In Neulbom restaurant, there is also a unique sauce that is provided called the myeolchi-jeot. This is a salty anchovy-based dipping sauce that comes in a small metal bowl and placed on the side of the grill to keep warm.

After browning the outside of the pork, the staff uses a pair of scissors to cut the meat into bite size pieces and we were to let it cook further.

The staff was pretty busy, having to serve a few tables. So we were left pretty much to cook the pork ourselves. Being experienced with grilling meat at home, that was not a problem for us. 

Like most good BBQ restaurants in Korea, there is an air extractor above the grill to suck out all the smoke and oil from the grilling meat.

The way to eat the grilled meat, Korean style, is to dip it in the myeolchi-jeot and/or ssamjang, and then wrapped it with the fresh lettuce leaves. One can also include some pickled onions or fresh garlic into the wrap as well.

Once done, the whole package is put into the mouth. Eating pork this way, I can smell the charred flavour from the crispy, rendered fat and taste the crunchy meat, with crispy greens plus the kick from the dipping sauce.

The meal is best eaten with drinks of soju, beer and makgeolli. Makgeolli is milky, off-white, and lightly sparkling rice wine that is a little sweet in taste.

Overall, we enjoyed the drinks and dinner and also the good company. Once done, we went downstairs to have free coffee from the vending machine while waiting for our driver to pick us up. Some of us actually paid 8,000 KWR for 2 cups of Americano from the cafe at the ground floor, thinking that they were complimentary but actually not! The free coffee are those from the vending machine!

My original plan was to visit Iho Tewoo Beach in the evening to see the unique horse-shaped lighthouses at sunset. But we started our hike at Hallasan too late and our hike took too long.

Even though it was now dark, our driver took us to view the light houses at night before driving us back to our hotel along the rainbow coastal road.

Unique Horse-shaped lighthouses at Iho Tewoo Beach.

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Delmoondo Cafe at Hamdeok Beach

8 November 2022

Our plan for this day is to explore the eastern part of Jeju by chartered taxi, in particular enjoy Jeju's seafood (abalone), beautiful coastal scenery and geological marvels.

Our first stop for the day was at Hamdeok Beach, located on the northern coast east of Jeju City.

It took slightly below an hour to get to Hamdeok Beach. This beach has tropical vibes, with its white sand, turquoise sea and palm trees. The only thing that spoilt the perfect picture was the plastic sheets covering the sandy beach, held down by bags of sand. I believe this beach would be fantastic for beach lovers in summer. In autumn, not many swimmers use the beach and the sheets are probably to prevent sand from being blown off.

Autumn morning at Hamdeok Beach.

Bronze statues of fishermen pulling fishing net at the beach.

There are many cafes and restaurants located at Hamdeok Beach area. The cafe that stands out is the Cafe Delmoondo, located on the western end of the sandy beach.

The purpose of our visit to Hamdeok Beach was to have breakfast at this cafe. This is one of the few cafes that opens early at 7 AM.

Delmoondo cafe has two levels. Guests entered at the upper level. When we arrived at 9 AM, most of the seats at the lower level, next to the sea, were already occupied. We managed to get some seats on the terrace at the upper level that is facing the sea. In fact, I think the seats on the terrace are more convenient.

We ordered one standard black Americano for 7,000 KWR to share. This is pretty expensive compared to typical cafes in Jeju but then, we are paying premium to get such beautiful sea views.

The sea at Jeju has such clear water.

While sipping our coffee and eating our pastries, we could see hikers climbing up Seoubong volcanic cone that borders the eastern sea of Hamdeok Beach.

The pastries were more reasonably priced. The cafe serves pastries at 5,000 KWR each. We ordered a cinnamon bun, a caramel peanut bun with chocolate and a Udo peanut bread.

Cinnamon bun and caramel peanut bun with chocolate.

These were the best pastries that I have tasted for a long while. The pastries were extra crispy and flaky. I could not find similar quality pastries back home.

Certainly a highly recommended cafe to visit when in Jeju; for both the views and the excellent pastries.   

I would not mind chilling here the whole morning but I have places to visit.

Next stop – exploring the lava tube at Manjanggul Cave.

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Back to Manjanggul Cave

8 November 2022

The first geological marvel we visited while touring the eastern part of Jeju Island was the Manjanggul Cave.

Manjanggul Cave is actually part of a large lava tube system that was formed thousands of years ago from volcanic eruptions and lava flow. There are over a hundred such lava tubes in Jeju and Manjanggul Cave is one of the largest with a total length of over 7.4 km. 

This was my second visit to Manjanggul Cave. My first visit was in 2011. Nevertheless, I hope to learn and experience something new with this visit. Entrance fee was 4000 KWR per person, double of what I paid 11 years ago.

After over 10 years and despite doubling the entrance fees, most things about Manjanggul Cave did not change. Only 1 km of the lava tube (shown in red in the picture below) is open to visitors. 

There are 3 entrances to the lava tube that is opened to visitors.

Manjanggul Cave is partially multi-layered.

The first entrance is visible but the section of lava tube is not open to visitors. Visitors entered through the second entrance. The 3rd entrance is not accessible to visitors as well.       

This is the stairs leading down to the entrance of the cave.

The first entrance is next to the second entrance. A little mist could be seen hanging over the mouth of the lava tube at the first entrance.

First impression of Manjanggul Cave.

For first time visitors, entry into the lava cave must have invoked a feeling of awe. I felt that way on my first visit.

The cave is dark, with just enough lights for visitors to view the features and walk around safely on the rough and uneven lava floor. I have no problem with the darkness once my eyes got used to it. I actually loved it this way. Too much lighting inside would have spoilt the overall experience.

I was impressed by the coolness, the surprisingly fresh air inside, the damp but rough floor and how large the lava tube was. The main tunnel’s width is 18 m and its height is 23 m. We were saying it is probably large enough to put a subway train system inside.

I could remember some features of the lava tube from my first visit. The shark tooth lava stalactites from ceiling, the lava flow lines at the sides of the lava tube and the lava rafts, including one that is shaped like Jeju Island itself. 

Shark tooth lava stalactites from ceiling.

There were some characteristics of the lava tube that I missed on my first visit. This time, I took time to learn about the lava toes, lava flowstones dripping from the side walls and the lava shelves.

I even spotted an unusual sight. Moss growing in the dark cave.

Actually the moss was thriving under the light shining from beneath a bench placed inside the cave for visitors to take a rest.

We walked down the tunnel slowly as the lava floor is uneven. There are sections of boardwalks over the rougher parts, such as the area with lava toes.

The highlight of Manjanggul Cave is a 7.6 m tall lava column, seen after a 1 km trek.

The lava column is the most brightly lit feature inside the cave and it marks the furthest point that visitors can go. We took a slow walk back to the entrance from there.

Overall we spent about 1.5 hour at this attraction, including the walk from the car park to the cave’s entrance, exploring the caves, stopping for photos and a toilet break.

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Haenyeo Museum

8 November 2022

Those who are familiar with Jeju or who had watched recent Korea dramas featuring Jeju, e.g. “Our Blues”, would have known about “haenyeo”.

A "haenyeo" is a woman diver who gathers marine products for a living, and Jeju is home to the largest number of them in Korea. Equipped with only a lead-weighted vest and goggles, the haenyeo would plunge into waters, dive underwater and hold their breath for up to two minutes while gathering clams, abalone or seaweed from the ocean floor.

The vast majority of living haenyeo are now over the age of 70 and this is a disappearing trade. Hence the importance of a museum dedicated to record, preserve and provide education about this fast disappearing culture.

I included this museum into our itinerary as I felt we should learn more about the haenyeo culture while visiting Jeju. 

The museum is located near the Sehwa coast in the northeastern part of Jeju.  On arrival, I was surprised by the museum’s large and modern building, with a large open garden with various sculptures and a resting area in front of it.

Entrance fee is 1100 KWR per person. Upon entry, we were invited to watch a short video presentation of the Haenyeo culture. While waiting for the next screening of the video, I went to see the sculptures and art work displayed in the lobby.

After watching the video we went to explore the 3 exhibition halls.

Exhibition Hall 1 is entitled “Haenyeo Diver’s Life” and has a replica of a traditional haenyeo’s home, her meals and her traditional beliefs.

Diorama showing the typical layout of a Jeju fishing village in the old days.   

Jeju's thatched houses were built using stones, soil, wood, and belts that are easily available in nature. To overcome the strong rain and wind, the thatched roof was tied with a band, the walls were built using stones, and the fence was also built with stacked lava stones.

Jeju's Traditional Raft called the 'Tewoo'.

Replica of a traditional haenyeo’s home.

Earthen jars for storing rain water, preserving and storing food. Fishing nets and diving equipment hung on the wall.

When travelling, I always look forward to sampling the local cuisine. Hence the section on Jeju food was interesting.  Because Jeju Island is surrounded by the sea on all sides, Jeju food culture is characterized by many dishes made with ingredients such as conch, abalone, sea urchin, and seaweed. They are cooked simply to retain natural flavour of the ingredients. They use only simple seasoning like soybean paste and boiled fish.

I was surprised when I saw in the video presentation that Haenyeo resumed their dives as soon as 3 days after childbirth. These women certainly had a hard life. No such thing as maternity leave for them.

The women dive daily, even through their pregnancies. 

Because their livelihood and safety depended so much on nature, Haenyeo pray to Yeongdeung, the dragon god who they believe controls the sea. Before they begin their dive, there is a prayer for safety and a wealthy catch. 

Shamanic rites being performed to make offerings to the dragon god. The lady in the colourful clothes is the Shaman.

Exhibition Hall 2 showcases the Jeju haenyeo's  workplace, history, and community.

The clothes worn by Jeju haenyeo for diving are called 'mulot'. In the past, it consisted of 'mulsojunggi' (bottom), 'muljeoksam' (top), and 'water towel' to tidy up the hair.

From the early 1970s, haenyeo wore rubber wetsuits with lead belts, which allowed them to work for longer hours and greatly improved their efficiency.

Exhibit showing a Bulteok, a place for the diving women to change their clothes, as well as a place to rest and keep warm after a dive in the cold sea.

A Bulteok is a place for the diving women to change their clothes, as well as a place to rest, keep warm after a dive in the cold sea. A fire was lit in the middle of a round stone wall to warm the body. It is also a place where information and skills on materials work, such as knowledge about materials, tips on materials, and location of the sea, are passed on and acquired, and mutual cooperation among haenyeo is reaffirmed and decisions are made.

Haenyeo community is strong and regimental. The diving women do not arbitrarily jump into the sea and do things alone, but act according to the rules and laws that have been set. In addition, when working with material things, they do not work alone, but work together, and when they are in trouble, they can jointly cope with dangerous situations. Haenyeo cannot exist apart from the group. They even have a ranking or class system depending on their level of experience, age and virtue: high, mid or low class. Starting from as early as 11 years old, it takes seven years of training almost every day before a girl can be considered a fully qualified haenyeo.

Exhibition Hall 3 has an underwater theme called “The Sea” and displays the fishing industry’s culture. Traditional fishnets and fishing equipment are on display including small ship models and salt farm models.

Life-size model of a Jeju's Traditional Raft called the 'Tewoo'.

I think the 45 minutes at the Haenyeo Museum was well spent.

Our next stop would be at a restaurant in Sehwa that specialising in local abalone and seafood dishes. After a visit to the Haenyeo Museum, we could now better appreciate those abalones that we would be eating for lunch.

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