Walking the Old Nakasendo Highway between Tsumago and Nagiso

25 May 2016

After checking in and resting at Fujioto Ryokan for a while, we decided to walk the Nakasendo Highway between Tsumago and Nagiso. Earlier in the day we had completed a 7.8 Km walk from Magome to Tsumago and our travelling companions were itching to do more. 

We decided to do the hike in reverse, i.e. take a bus or taxi into Nagiso and then walk back to Tsumago. We figured that it would be easier to get a taxi in Tsumago (ryokan owner helped us to call for one by phone) That way, we would be more in control of our time as dinner is served at 6 PM sharp and we could timed ourselves to arrive back by 5 PM. The Nagiso to Tsumago trail is about 3.7 km, with 117m of ascent from Nagiso and 101m of descent into Tsumago. The one way journey should take about 1 hour.

The taxi came to pick us from Tsumago at 3.30 PM and it took only 15 minutes (and 1200 Yen) to get into Nagiso. We told the driver to alight us at the far end of the Momosukebashi bridge.

 

Momosukebashi Bridge at Nagiso.

This bridge is amazing as it was a suspended bridge constructed with wood and spans 247 metres. Many hydro-electric dams was constructed near each small towns within the Kiso Valley. This bridge was built by Fukuzawa Momosuke, a wealthy industrialist who recognised the potential for hydro-electric power in the Kiso valley. This bridge was originally constructed to assist in transporting materials for the construction of a dam.

 Walking across this suspended bridge, constructed with wood and spans 247 metres.

View of the Kiso River. Looked dry but many hydro-electric dams were built across this river to power the small towns along the Kiso Valley.

We walked across the bridge, over the Kiso River and went to the Nagiso train station. Our fears of unavailability of taxis at Nagiso was unfounded. There was a taxi rank outside the station with a couple of waiting taxis. While we were there, we checked out the latest train schedule, just to be sure we don’t missed the infrequent train to Narai the next day.

Nagiso is a small town that serves as another gateway to Tsumago. Besides the bridge and the train station, there is really nothing very much of interest to visitors. It was easy to locate the trail leading from Nagiso Station to Tsumago and start on our hike.

First part of the trail was along the railway lines.

There was some old train engines at the side and a small playground too.

Nice photo opportunities.

Superman in action!

 

Shrine at the left side of the trail, opposite the old train engine

 

The trail soon swings leftwards and ascended steeply. Thankfully, the steep climb was for a short stretch only and it was an easy walk to Tsumago after that.

We passed through a hamlet with many modern looking houses, quite a few with nice Koi ponds. I could not help but stopped to admire the beautiful Japanese gardens with the characteristic Koi pond. Most of the Koi in these ponds were not of show quality. Quite surprising to me since all the best quality Koi in the world are bred in Japan.

Nice Koi pond with water wheel.

 

The houses and gardens in this hamlet has no fencing. We could walked right up to the garden and Koi pond to admire the fish.

Crystal clear waters. Would be great if there were some show quality Koi instead of Chagoi in it.

Another house with a nice Koi pond.

 

Temple near a village crossroad with what looked like a statue of the Goddess of Mercy.

 

We met an old lady in the midst of chopping some bamboo shoots at the edge of a bamboo forest. One of my travelling companion speaks Japanese and chatted with her.

She was a bit concerned that we took an interest in what she was doing and she quickly assured us that this is her land and the bamboos belongs to her.

She placed the harvested bamboo into a traditional basket, strapped it across her shoulders and then picked up a pair of poles to go home. Modern hiking poles! What a combination!

  Cat showing an interest in us and following us on the trail.

 

We came to 3 way junction with a confusing sign with no English text to point which way leads to Tsumago. Some kind person had placed a little sticker in English to mark the right fork to take for Tsumago. Thank you!

Back to the Fujioto Ryokan.

We got back to Fujioto slightly after 5 PM, just in time for a shower and a soak in the hot bath before our dinner at 6 PM. The kaiseki dinner at Fujioto was superb! I will share in the next post.

Overall the walk from Nagiso to Tsumago took us about 1.5 hours. In total, we had walked more than 11 km on this day; 7.8 km from Magome to Tsumago and then 3.7 km from Nagiso to Tsumago.

One of the things not to miss along the Nakasendo Trail was to explore and experience walking around the post-towns at night, dressed in traditional yukatas.

Tsumago was practically deserted at night, except for the few tourists dressed in yukatas trying to take photos using smartphones.

Tsumago, lit only by lamps outside each house.

Tsumago, at night, was somehow not as atmospheric compared to Magome. Nevertheless, still fun.

 

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Fujioto Ryokan in Tsumago, a Nakasendo post-town

Located in the middle of Tsumago, one of the restored Edo-era post town along the Nakasendo Highway, the 100-year-old traditional inn Fujioto Ryokan was one of the best place that we stayed in while we were in Kiso Valley.  It is now beautifully restored but still remained charmingly traditional.

Entrance or transition area where it is shoes off, put on one of the ryokan’s sandals for walking inside the ryokan.

 

The Japanese owner, who speaks good English as well as Italian, checked us in personally and showed us the rooms and facilities.

Bare feet or socks only on the tatami mats inside our Japanese style room.

 

I booked early, so I was assigned the bigger room on the second floor with nice views of the inner garden and the goldfish pond below.

 

Rest and relax after arrival with my travelling companions before exploring Tsumago and nearby Nagiso.

 

Fujioto provided each room with some welcome sweets, a flask with ice water and a flask of hot water for making fresh green tea in a Japanese teapot. The room came with a safe deposit box, air-conditioning and everything needed for a comfortable stay.

After our second hike of the day from Nagiso back to Tsumago, we went to enjoy a soak in the Hinoki bathtub, made from the famous scented Kiso Valley Cypress Wood, before dinner. Fujioto is one of the ryokans that provided shared bathrooms that can be used privately. There were two available on a first-come-first-served basis. This allowed us to enjoy a good soak in the hot Japanese bath without having to be naked in front of strangers. Just go at time when it is unoccupied and lock the door before using it. The only slight “complain”  I have is that the water in the hinoki bath was not hot enough.

Like most minsukus and ryokans, yukatas were provided and we were to wear those to dinner after our hot bath.

The kaiseki dinner at Fujioto was excellent. We were served famous local cuisine that has been enjoyed since the time of Samurai and Shogun. The waitress that served us spoke excellent English. She explained every dish, its ingredients and how to eat it the local way, e.g. what dip to use. The owner also came by to chat with us.

Tasting plate of local specialities. Our waitress asked us to guess what was in the blue plate and to taste it before she tells us what it was.  Answer at the end of the post.

 

This grilled trout (Ayu) with salt on the outside is one of the best I tasted. Sweet and delicate. I was longing for similar trout at the other ryokans after this but none came close.  The owner came to talk to us. He told us the Ayu fish he served was specially caught in the higher mountain streams. Hence tastier but more expensive than the usual Ayu fish served elsewhere.

 

Shinshu (name of this region) Salmon Sashimi. Shinshu Salmon is actually a local trout with red-colour fresh and hence also called salmon. I don’t exactly like salmon so I find this tasted better than salmon.

 

Hoba–miso Shinshu Beef Steak. Local wagyu beef with miso paste and vegetables, cooked over a magnolia leaf on the table top stove.

 

Seasonal sour pickle – this are pickled mushrooms. Pink cherry blossom petal on top.

The waitress again asked us to guess what the round, white ,floating ingredient was. Looked like a jelly fish floating in the broth, but we correctly guessed that is was a paper-thin slice of daikon.

 

 

Vegetable tempura. Look at the decor! The “flower” looking item at the lower part of the picture was a kind of seaweed. Deep fried and presented like a flower. Best eaten sprinkled or dip with mixed sea-salt and green tea powder.

 

Boiled vegetable dish consisting of 2 types of mushrooms with pumpkin sauce beneath the fried potato garnishing

Forgot to take a photo of the gohei mochi which are grilled skewered rice balls, coated with the soy sauce with sugar, cracked walnut and sesami.

 

Dessert – fruits with matcha sponge cake.

 

After this heavy meal, it is best to go for a stroll around Tsumago to aid digestion and to experience Tsumago at night. Thereafter, either have another soak in the hot bath or retire to the bed early. Tired out from the day’s exertions and heavy dinner, we slept like a log till day break.

The owner of Fujioto had helped to book a taxi to take us to Nagiso Station the day before during check-in. He recommended this option as it would be faster and cheaper (for 4 persons) than if we were to take the infrequent bus that runs between Tsumago and Nagiso Train station. With transportation pre-arranged, we were free to enjoy the morning without any pressure of getting to the train on time. One of the best thing to do while visiting Tsumago is to take a morning walk without the crowd of day-trippers. 

Morning walk in quaint and scenic Tsumago before breakfast. More photos in the next post.

 

 

Fujioto’s Koi pond just outside the entrance.

 

Breakfast spread at Fujioto

 

Fujioto Ryokan provided each of us with a souvenir photo

 

 

Answer to what was on the blue plate.

Fried wasp larva coated with a sweet and salty taste. It was actually quite tasty and I finished them all!

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Morning in Tsumago, a Nakasendo Post-Town

26 May 2016

The best time to take any photos is in the morning, especially so when visiting the old post town of Tsumago. I was happy we had time to explore Tsumago in the morning before catching the 10.19 AM train from the nearby Nagiso Station.

Lone kid walking to his school in Tsumago.

 

Tsumago in the morning, without the hordes of tourists.

 

A group photo, taken with the help of a fellow guest from Fujioto ryokan.

 

View of Tsumago within the Kiso Valley as seen from the Kotoku-ji Temple, located on a high point within the town.

 

One of the preserved Edo-period lodging opened to visitors

 

I was amazed by the colours of these roses.

 

House swifts nesting under the roofs of the old houses were a common sight.

 

Not sure what these hanging dolls meant.

 

Relaxing by the Fujioto’s fishpond, just outside the dining room.

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