10 July 2015
As forecasted, the weather on this day was the best over the period we were in Bernese Oberland. We had chose the day with clear blue sky for our trip to Jungfraujoch. It would make no sense to go to Jungfraujoch in cloudy or bad weather. One advantage of staying in Wengen is that access to Jungfraujoch from Wengen is easy. A direct train ride took us to Kleine Scheidegg and we could make an early start to beat the crowd.
Going up to the “Top of Europe” by the Jungfraubahn from Kleine Scheidegg was not cheap and no wonder. The Jungfraubahn is an engineering marvel that involved drilling a tunnel through the Monch and Eiger mountains, laying the train tracks to brings visitors to a train station inside of the Jungfrau Mountain. Opened in 1912, it took 300 men 16 years to construct at a cost of 15 million CHF (Swiss Francs). It would have costed much more money in today’s term.
The rolling stock is a cogwheel type train that started at Kleine Scheidegg and brought us in about 45 minutes to the Jungfrau station at an altitude of 3454 meters. Along the way the train made two brief stops at smaller stations within the mountain, i.e. the Eigerwand (Eiger Wall) and Eismeer (Sea of Ice). The stops were only 5 minutes long and offered only enough time to have a quick look out of sealed windows on the side of the mountain at the glacier and valley below.
The Eismeer in particular offers a quick view of a portion of the Lower Grindenwald Glacier. We could get better views and photos at the top later.
The end station, the Jungfrau Station, is also underground. Tunnels led us to the main complex, the Top of Europe building.
It made sense to snap a photo of the train departure schedule back down to Kleine Scheidegg.
We toured the Top of Europe building, looked at some of the exhibits showcasing the construction of the railway and then took a high speed elevator up to the observation deck where we went outdoors to look at the Aletsch Glacier and surrounding mountains. This is why good clear weather is essential for a visit to this place. Gorgeous views all round as far as the eye can see and a “Top of the World” or “Top of Europe” feeling.
On one side , we have views of the Aletsch Glacier. On the opposite side, we had views of Kleine Scheidegg and parts of the Mannlihen to Kleine Schedegg trail that we hiked a few days ago. We could see Wengen, perched on the cliff above the Lauterbrunnen Valley.
In summer, visitors can take part in outdoor snow activities like skiing, zip lining, snowboarding or sledging at a ski and snowboard park. This is the view of the snow fun park and also the trail leading to the Mönchsjoch Hut as seen from the observation platform.
From the observation platform at the top, we went down below to see the “Ice Palace”. Prior to entering the “Ice Palace” we were treated to some nice displays that kids and adults would enjoy.
One part involved standing on a travelator that brought us through a tunnel with walls showcasing the history of the railway construction and honouring those involved in its construction.
Soon, we entered a tunnel carved out within the glacier. the “Ice Palace”. Imagine walking through an ice box. It would be pretty cold, if we were not prepared. Although it was summer in Switzerland, the weather at Jungfrau was much cooler and could change suddenly. We were dressed in layers and if needed, we could put on or remove fleece and light weight wind-proof jackets.
There were ice carvings along the way including polar bears and penguins.
And we saw this little fellow from the “Ice Age” movie.
We then ventured out into the glacier itself. This is where the sun-glasses became extremely essential to cut out the glare from the snow.
It was safe to walk on the glacier as long as we kept within the roped areas.
As we intended to stay the whole day at Jungfrau, we decided to grab some lunch before embarking on the strenuous activities. There were a couple of restaurants at the top and we decided to splurge a little at the fancier Restaurant Crystal.
While eating I saw a group of guys hiking through the snow on a nearby mountain. Little would I know that I would meet one the them later. We went to visit the Lindt Swiss Chocolate Heaven shop after lunch. There were interesting displays and we get to sample Lindt chocolates there.
We ventured out onto the glacier again. Zip lines were in operation and riders were flying over our heads as we headed for the snow fun park.
Sledges could be hired and that was what we did. Imagine playing with snow in the middle of summer in Europe!
A travelator was available to bring riders and skiers back up to top. Cool!
While the family stayed at the snow fun park, I did the hike to the Mönchsjoch Hut. The hut sits at 3650 meters and the trail to the hut is a gentle uphill walk from the snow park. The hike should take about 45 minutes, according to a signboard.
The hike involved walking on a permanently snow covered glacier and has poles marking the trail in the same way as a ski run. The trail is safe, crevasse free but the surrounding glacier is not. It was important to stay on the path as I was walking on ice and snow, and not solid rock.
Looking back, I could get a good view of the Sphinx. There were more people at the initial part of the trail, in both directions but it soon became lesser and lesser.
Most visitors would turn back after a few hundred meters. I continued on as I was determined to complete the journey. Soon, I was very much alone on the trail.
I saw a couple of high mountain rescue helicopters on standby. This was reassuring, knowing that help is not far away if needed.
It was not easy going. Each step took some effort as I am walking in snow and in much thinner air than I was used to. I discovered that it was no use having waterproof gore-tex shoes if the snow is deeper than the foot. Snow was getting into my shoes through the ankles!
Although it was walking on ice and snow, it was hot! I was perspiring from the exertions and my windproof jacket was soon removed.
I saw this guy coming towards me from a distance. He soon caught up with me and I was amazed with the equipment he was lugging on this back. A full-pack, climbing ropes and other mountaineering gear. He was walking towards the hut. Like me, he was labouring at each step. But I was not carrying anything! This guy is physically much fitter than I.
We soon became “walk buddies”, sort of. I would walk ahead, stopped for photos and he would overtake me. Then I would overtake him again and stopped for more photos while he caught up and overtook me again.
First sight of the hut, my destination.
I saw some mountaineers in the distance, coming down the mountain and onto the glacier.
Closer to the destination.
At the foot of the hut, I had to climb up this slippery path. Thank goodness for the ropes.
The Mönchsjoch Hut is the highest occupied hut in Switzerland. The hut is where the mountaineers rest, eat and can stay overnight.
As we changed out from our shoes into provided sandals before entering the hut, I found out that my “buddy” was from Italy and he and his group of friends had spent the day before climbing and camping out in mountains before walking back to the hut where he would be staying for the night. He was probably part of the group of people I saw coming down the mountains during lunch.
I took a “selfie”, using the reflection off a window to remember my hike to this amazing place. I did not linger too long here as I felt a little out of place. I am a city folk in the midst of brave mountaineers.
After a quick look around, it was a slow, lonely walk back to Jungfrau station feeling satisfied that I had this amazing experience on the Jungfrau.
I made it back to the snow fun park in good time and we went to buy some Lindt chocolates before queuing for the Jungfraubahn to bring us back to Kleine Scheidegg and Wengen.
One member of our family started feeling the effects of the thin air, known as “altitude sickness” while waiting for the train. Headaches and vomiting were the symptoms. It was timely that we were on our way down to lower altitude before things got worst. We saw some other visitors fainting earlier during the day from the lack of oxygen and overexcitement. At such high altitude, it is best to walk slowly, and let the body acclimatise.
After a great day out in the high mountains, it was good to be back in our apartment in Wengen for a nice dinner and rest. One last evening here with the gorgeous view before we check out tomorrow morning.
Evening view from the balcony of the Bella Vista apartment in Wengen.
My finance and I didn’t give up and made it to the hut. She is telling people it was 10 miles away. I think it took us 2+ hours to get there
ReplyDeleteIt sure felt like it was many miles away. The air is thin up at Jungfraujoch and hence it was more difficult than normal.
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