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Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Blue Moon Valley

11 September 2024

We brought fleece and/or down jackets for a trip to Yunnan in end of summer, just for this activity in our itinerary. This is the day where we would ascend by cable car to 4506 meters above sea level at Jade Dragon (Yulong) Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山) and then hike to an observation deck at 4680 meters.

It is known that the weather up in the mountain is unpredictable. The temperature could drop to 5°C on the top of the mountain.  In our warm clothing, just to visit Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

From Lijiang, we had arranged a private tour with car and guide for this trip. This is a very popular tourist destination and cable car tickets, especially to Glacier Park, can sell out quickly. So it is best to let the local travel agent do all the legwork to book all the tickets including those for Blue Moon Valley.

The drive from Lijiang to the cable car station is pleasant. We made a quick stop en-route to buy some oxygen canisters. The accessible altitude of this mountain is 4,600 meters which can cause altitude sickness, especially for people who lived all their lives at sea level where the oxygen level in the air is higher.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is a spectacle of nature's beauty, with its 13 snow-capped peaks stretching across the horizon like a majestic white Chinese dragon. The weather for the past few days have been cloudy with intermittent light rain.

View of the mountain range as we approached the cable car station.

After arriving at the destination, we had to take a shuttle bus to the cable car station. In the high season (from April to June), visitors usually have to wait for 30 to 90 minutes for the shuttle bus and another 20 to 60 minutes for the cable car.

Thankfully, there was no queue for us when we arrived.

Boarding the shuttle bus to the cable car station. The people in red winter clothes are from the big group tour. Winter clothes are available for rent at the shuttle bus station.

There is no queue at the cable car station as well. Each cable car could take 8 persons up to the Shanzidou Peak, the main peak of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

Look at the facility to support long queues for the cable cars. Thankfully, we could board the cable car immediately.

The cable car is located at 3356 meters altitude. From there, we will ascend to Glacier Park at an altitude of 4,506 m within 15 minutes. Air at high altitude is lower in oxygen and the rapid ascent may cause altitude sickness. This is where the bottled oxygen comes in useful. Even our guide, who goes up this mountain frequently, bought a bottle too. This is a place not for those with serious heart problems.

A few quick puffs of oxygen on the way up. Prevention is better than cure. Symptoms of altitude sickness are headaches and vomiting.

Arriving at the top of the ropeway, we could instantly feel the cold air. We felt nice and comfortable since we had proper attire. Unfortunately, the mountain top was covered with clouds and visibility was not good.

The weather on the mountain at 4508m altitude is foggy with clouds.

 We could not see the glacier due to the clouds. 

There is not much to see (no thanks to the weather). Even then, we decided to walk up the walkway leading to 4680 meters. We wanted to experience hiking at high altitude, especially for my son who would be climbing Mount Kilimanjaro in November. With the thin air, every step was difficult and we were gasping for air.

There was a rest stop at 4576 meters. My wife who is prone to altitude sickness decided to wait here while the rest of us continued on.

At the rest point at 4576 meters.

There is a stall selling drinks and hot food along the way to observation deck at 4680 m.

Taking it slow, we arrived at our destination at 4680 meters. This is the highest point along the trail. There is a marker where everyone was queuing to get a photo with.

Marker at 4680 meters. This is the highest altitude I have ever been.

Still no good visibility.

 

Making our way down.

Look at the number of people walking up and down the trail.

The sky began to clear as we slowly made our way down to the cable car platform at 4506 meter.

Looking back at the path leading to the observation platform at 4680 m.

Finally we were able to see the glacier at Yulong Snow Mountain.

The Shanzidou Peak, the main peak of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, was still not visible.

Viewing platform above the clouds.

My wife was feeling the effects of altitude sickness despite using the oxygen canisters so we did not stay too long up on the mountain.

Our next stop after getting down from Yulong Snow Mountain is the Blue Moon Valley (蓝月谷). This valley is famous for some of China's most spectacular mountain and lake views. The valley gets its name because it resembles a blue crescent moon inlaid at the foot of the mountain when seen from a distance.

We took a shuttle bus from the base of the cable car station to the entrance of Blue Moon Valley. Although the altitude at Blue Moon Valley is around 3,000 meters, my wife felt much better after descending from the mountain.

From there, we took a smaller electric powered tram to get to the valley. The tram travelled dangerous fast down the mountain pathway to the first lake.

The scenery in the river valley, with lakes in the foreground and the mountain as the backdrop is stunningly beautiful.

This stone marker, with the name of the place in blue Chinese characters, is a popular photo spot.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the background.

The river and lakes are formed by water run off from the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Glacier lakes usually have almost unreal blue water. However, the water we saw was a milky blue. The local Naxi people name it White Water River (Baishui River) as the river water could turn as white as milk after a heavy rain where white mud and limestone rubble gets swirled up from the river bed.

A long exposure shot of the first waterfall using my Samsung S24 with built-in Neutral Density ND filters.

Putting up a show with the oxygen canister. By now, she was feeling better.

Our guide told us that the Naxi people would wash their hands three times using the ice cold river water. They believe it would wash away bad luck and receive good fortune and health.

Washing your hands using the river water is a local Naxi practice.

A handsome white hair yak is onsite to photo shoots. Many locals would dress up in traditional Naxi costumes for a photo shoot on this yak. 

Although it is the low season, the valley was full of visitors.

Further downstream are a series of curved terraces. We saw the natural rim-stone terraces when we visited the Jiu Xiang Caves. Here the terraces are man-made.

Man-made rim-stone terraces along the river.

Even though the terraces are man-made, they are excellent for photos.

The White Water River (Baishui River) meandering down the Blue Moon Valley.

The shuttle tram would make 3 stops along the Blue Moon Valley. After exploring the valley at the first stop, we took the shuttle tram to the last stop, skipping the middle stop as instructed by our guide. I am not sure why we skipped the middle stop. Either we were short of time or he knew the scenery at the second stop was not worth the time.

Alighting at the last stop, we walked a little back upstream and downstream to enjoy some excellent views of the valley.

These are the photos at the last stop:

 

 

Overall, the scenery at Blue Moon Valley is awesome and excellent for landscape photography, despite the crowds. However, I felt our time at Blue Moon Valley was a little rushed. I would have loved to hike slowly down the valley, enjoying the mountain air and nature, instead of taking the shuttle tram. I guess the shuttle trams were deployed to move people in and out of the valley quickly to handle large crowds during the peak periods.

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Visit Baisha Village (白沙村) near Lijiang

11 September 2024

After a day trip to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Blue Moon Valley, we made a stop at the Baisha Village (白沙村) on our way back to Lijiang.

The village, at the foot of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, is about 8 km to the north of Lijiang Old Town. It is much quieter compared to the Lijiang Old Town because it is not as commercialised. Known for its well-preserved Naxi architecture, traditional culture, and local crafts, it is a great place to experience Naxi embroidery and murals.

 Wooden gate to the Baisha Old town with the name (白沙).

Baisha Old Town is one of the oldest towns in Lijiang. The town was named "Baisha", which means "white sand" because of the white sand on the ground.

Baisha Village used to be a Naxi settlement and the birthplace of local Mu family who governed Lijiang. There are many ancient buildings built during the Ming Dynasty, including Dabaoji Palace, Liuli Temple, and Wenchang Palace.

Our planned activity at the village is to see the famous Baisha Murals and visit a local Naxi family to experience making the Naxi pancakes.

Our first stop was to see the murals at Dabaoji Palace (大宝积宫). The place was few visitors and was quiet and peaceful. The palace houses several murals, which are the largest and best-preserved in Lijiang.

The most renowned mural, titled “The Buddha Giving Teachings” (如来讲经图) depicts a variety of activities and stories from Tibetan Buddhism, Han Buddhism, and Daoism, featuring over 100 characters with intricate details and vivid colors. The central figure is the Buddha in red robes, seated majestically with 18 disciples depicted above him, while the Four Heavenly Kings are illustrated on either side.

Entrance to the Baisha Murals. There is a small fee for entry which our guide took care of.

We saw a replica of the mural on the screen wall just after entering the place. The actual mural which measures 3.67 meters high and 4.98 meters wide is located in a building with quite dark interior. Photos of the actual murals are not permitted so I took a picture of the replica   Replica of the Baisha Mural on the screen wall near the entrance. 

Our guide explained the religious stories of Taoism, Buddhism, and Tibetan Buddhism, most of which I failed to remember.

We then spent some time to explore the village and even made a brief stop at the Baisha Embroidery School which was quite similar to the one we visited in Dali’s Xizhou.

I enjoyed the walk through the village. It is like travelling back in time to ancient China or walking in a movie set for a period drama or movie. The views of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the background adds to the charm.

         

There are many ancient streets to explore, including a Sifang Street. The Sifang Street in Baisha Old Town was once a bustling trading hub along the Tea Horse Road and is the prototype for Sifang Street in Lijiang Old Town.

Like the Lijiang Old Town, there are cafes with musicians on the second storey in the Baisha Old Town. But not as rowdy. 

View of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain contrasting with the ancient architecture.

A lady in traditional costumer taking a selfie on the rooftop.

Food vendor at Baisha village.   

Stall selling the Naxi pancakes.

Our guide had arranged a visit to a local Naxi family for us to interact with the locals and learn how to make the Naxi pancakes.

Upon arrival at the home of the Naxi family, we were ushered to the simple family room for tea and snacks of walnuts while the lady host went to prepare the ingredients for making pancakes in the kitchen.

Once ready, we wore aprons and watched how the dough is knead and then ingredients added.

Our host explaining how the dough for the Naxi pancake is prepared.

Hands-on on kneading the dough to make the Naxi pancake.

Once the dough is ready, it is cut into smaller chunks, flatten with a rolling pin and then ingredients added.

We made both the plain and savoury versions with meat inside. In the old days, the pancakes were cooked in charcoal fired ovens. Now, modern kitchen appliance is used.

Pancakes brushed with a little oil and cooked in an appliance that looked like a waffle maker.

The finished pancakes.

The host also cooked some local Naxi dishes and served us butter tea from a beautiful yellow jug. The butter tea is a drink made from Pu-er tea, butter, and a pinch of salt. It is one of the favorite drinks of the Naxi people as butter tea provides plenty of energy and helps keep them warm in the high altitudes.

The taste of the butter tea was a little salty and oily from the butter. It is best to drink while it is hot.    

Dinner at the Naxi family home. The butter tea is served in a large bowl.

It was a nice experience meeting and interacting with the local Naxi family and have a peek into their simple lives and home. We also had a chance to try the butter tea of the Naxi people.

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Evening in Lijiang Old Town

11 September 2024

After a day out exploring Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Blue Moon Lake and Baisha Village, we spent our evening exploring Lijiang Old Town again. Since we had already explored the town a day before, we were quite familiar with the layout of the town.

At night, Lijiang OId Town is splendid and bustling from 6pm to 11pm. It is also more crowded compared to the day time.

LIjiang Town is pretty in the evening with the red lanterns lit.

We made a beeline for the Water Wheels  and Yulong Bridge area located in the Northern part of town since we hope to take photos of the sunset with Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the background.

After squeezing our way through the crowded streets, we came to our destination but we were a little late. The sun had already set. Nevertheless, the night scenes at this part of town did not disappoint. The sky was clear and the moon was out which adds the night scene.

View of the river running into the northern part of Lijiang town.

Water Wheels at Lijiang Town with the moon above.

 

View from Yulong Bridge.

We went to an area with many Western fast food restaurants such as McDonalds, KFC, and Starbucks. It was interesting to see how these Western establishments fit into the traditional decors of the repurposed old houses in the ancient town.    

Couple enjoying a walk in front of KFC and McDonalds.

Starbuck cafe with the bright moon in the sky.

We went to have a drink at Chagee which is a popular local teahouse chain. Chagee recently opened a outlet back in Singapore and people had to endure long queues to try their milk tea.

Almost empty Chagee teahouse compared to the long queues back home.

We also stopped by this highly reputed silver store called Bai Sui Fang Silverware to shop for a silver-lined water bottle. This store is located near Sifang Square and was recommended by our guide when we told him we were interested to shop for some high quality silver products. 

Bai Siu Fang Silverware store.

We spend the rest of our evening exploring the quieter part of the old town which includes the Mufu (木府) Palace. We even saw a local lade walking her per cat on a lease, like a pet dog. So cute.

Statue of a horse laden with tea, depicting the importance of this former trading town and a stop for traders carrying goods on the historic Tea Horse Road.

Cat on lease being walked like a dog.

Mufu Palace (木府)

At the Lijiang Museum that we visited a day earlier, we had learnt that the Mu clan of the Naxi ruled Lijiang as vassals of the Ming Empire and then as vassals of the Manchus of the Qing Empire.

The present building is a modern reconstruction, but it gives an idea of what their palace and castle once looked like.  We did not enter the palace and just view it from the outside.

 

Entrance to Mufu Palace.

Quiet alley in the old town

Admiring the lanterns on display.

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