8 November 2022
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Seongsan Ilchulbong is a tuff cone crater formed approximately 5,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption underneath the sea. It now rises steeply from the sea on almost all sides and access to the summit, at 180m above sea level, is via a narrow strip of land with a more gentle slope.
Although the name implied that this is THE place to watch the sunrise on Jeju Island, I would not sacrifice my sleep to climb to the summit for sunrise viewing.
I had visited Sunrise Peak before in 2011 and climbed to the summit to view the crater and the surrounding areas. Hence, this visit was more for the benefit of my travelling companions who are first time visitors to this place.
I had booked at private taxi tour to bring us to selected attractions on the eastern part of Jeju. This site is extremely popular and the large car park was practically full when we arrived in the afternoon. Perhaps the unusually warm autumn weather with clear blue sky played a part.
Our driver and guide, Mr Won, managed to find a space at an obscure place. In fact, he was proud to show us a “secret” place where we could take photos of Sunrise Peak without the crowds.
The same place also offers views of Udo Island across the sea. Udo, literally "Cow Island", has this name because it looks like a cow lying down but I could not discern that from our viewpoint.
Our travelling group with Udo Island in the background and Mr Won’s shadow in the foreground.
Once the mandatory photo-shoot was done, we had a decision to make. To climb to the top of Sunrise Peak or not.
A fee of 5000 KWR per person (used to be only 2000 KWR!) is charged for those wanting to take the trail to the summit. I knew it was a steep climb and that the view of the crater was not really that exciting - I had been here, done that before. So my wife and I chose not to go again. Another couple who were still feeling the after-effects of our Hallasan hike also chose not to go.
Our group split up into two. Four persons (2 couples) who were first time visitors chose to take the trail up to the summit. While waiting for them, we took a walk on the seaside trail on the left side of the Seongsan Ilchulbong.
Visitors who do not hike to the summit can also choose to spent time at the many stalls selling souvenirs and try the street food next to the car park. There are also opportunities to get pony rides for about 10,000 KWR near the entrance of the trail leading up to the peak.
View of the steep seaward cliffs of Sunrise Peak.
I had walked this seaside trail next to Sunrise Peak before. This time, we took a steep flight of steps down to a cove below with black sand beach.
At this beach, boats could be boarded for a tour round the seaward wide of Sunrise Peak. At 1.30 PM and 3.00 PM daily, the famous Jeju woman divers (Hae-nyeos) will give a performance of their amazing diving abilities but it was already past 3 PM when we arrived.
Cove with black sand beach by the left side of Sunrise Peak.
There is a hut where haenyeos were selling their catch to visitors. These are eaten sliced, like sashimi, in the hut. Having visited the Haenyeo Museum earlier in the day, we could appreciate the hard work that these aged ladies went through to make a living.
We did not dare to eat these sea critters raw.
Couple of fishermen on the black sand beach.
Beach with black sand (fragments of black lava rock) are common in volcanic islands like Jeju.
Rock formation with interesting lines. Are these lava flow lines?
In the midst of relaxing on the black sand beach, Mr Won suddenly came to me and told me that if we want to visit Sangumburi Crater later, we got to leave by 4.20 PM as last entry to the Sangumburi Crater is 5 PM.
There were frantic texting to the 2 couples who were taking the trail to the summit to inform them of the situation. Fortunately, they appeared like magic at 4.15 PM and we were soon on our way to Sangumburi Crater.
On our way to Sangumburi Crater from Sunrise Peak.
It was a tense drive from Sunrise Peak to Sangumburi Crater! Speed limit is quite low on Jeju’s roads and there are speed cameras a plenty. My Won tried his best to get us there before 5 PM. While his eyes were glued to the road and the speedometer, my eyes were glued to google map showing our current location and the clock.
It was going to be very close!
Did we made it? See the next post.
This is the view of the grass covered crater at the summit of Sunrise Peak, shot by one of my travelling companions. Still look the same after 11 years.
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