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Visit to Wat Phra Singh, Fern Forest Cafe and Khao Soi Khun Yai

13 January 2018

Visit to Wat Phra Singh, Fern Forest Cafe and Khao Soi Khun Yai

We had nothing really planned for our last morning in Chiang Mai before taking the afternoon flight home. Four of us decided to go explore more of the Old City while one decided to spend her morning relaxing in the Movenpick Suriwongse Hotel.

We took the songthaew or “red trucks” to Wat Phra Singh. By now, we were getting good in hailing a songthaew and getting to our destination. The songthaew are shareable public taxis made from converted pickup trucks and are the cheapest option to get around Chiang Mai on four wheels.

Wat Phra Singh is located inside the old city wall, at the western end of Ratchadamnoen Road. Our songthaew alighted us inside the compound of Wat Phra Singh, right in front of the main prayer hall. 

The main prayer hall of Wat Phra Singh

The main prayer hall Viharn Luang of Wat Phra Singh.


Gold and copper image of a seated Buddha inside the main prayer hall of Wat Phra Singh.

Gold and copper image of a seated Buddha inside the main prayer hall of Wat Phra Singh.

This impressive main prayer hall or viharn houses a very highly revered Buddha image named Phra Chao Thong Tip. This gold and copper image of a seated Buddha was cast in 1477.

There were lots of donation boxes, all for different causes inside the prayer hall. There was a prayer in progress and we stood to observe and listen to the chants for a while.

Monks in prayer session at Wat Phra Singh

Vegetarian food for after the prayer session. Visit to Wat Phra Singh

Vegetarian food for after the prayer session.


Leaving the main prayer hall, we turned left and came to a small elaborate building (library) built on a high stone base. The base has many beautiful carvings which have recently been renovated.

This small elaborate building next to the prayer hall is the library or scripture repository. It has a stone base to protect precious manuscripts from flooding and pest. Visit to Wat Phra Singh

This small elaborate Lanna style building next to the prayer hall is the library or scripture repository. It has a stone base to protect precious manuscripts from flooding and pest.


One of the many thewada (Buddhist spirit) figures at the sides of the base of the library. Wat Phra Singh.

One of the many Buddhist spirit figures at the sides of the base of the library. 


Behind the main prayer hall, there was a large impressive golden chedi, with golden elephants emerging from all four sides. The chedi had been restored and renovated many times to its present glided state.

large impressive golden chedi, with golden elephants emerging from all four sides

Large impressive golden chedi, with golden elephants emerging from all four sides.


Visit to Wat Phra Singh

Another golden chedi at Wat Phra Singh.


Visit to Wat Phra Singh

We made the mistake of just walking past and not entering the Viharn Lai Kam at Wat Phra Singh. This prayer hall or viharn houses the Phra Singh Buddha or Lion Buddha that gave this temple its name.

From Wat Phra Singh, we headed northwards to continue our exploration of the old city. We stopped and took a look inside the 99 The Gallery Hotel after an antique car at its front caught our attention. This is quite a nice boutique hotel located across from Wat Phra Singh.

outside the ninetynine gallery hotel.

Antique car outside the ninetynine gallery hotel.

Antique car outside the 99 The Gallery Hotel. This car has an antenna for a radio.

Outside of the Fern Forest Cafe, with hanging birds nest as decor

Outside of the Fern Forest Cafe, with hanging bird’s nests as part of its decor.


We stumbled upon a cafe set within beautiful surroundings. Called the Fern Forest Cafe, a coffee-break in its “fern forest” was very relaxing.

We sat in the open courtyard although the inside of the cafe is nicely furnished. There is even a pianist playing live music inside.

Fern Forest Cafe in Chiang Mai Old CityFern Forest Cafe in Chiang Mai Old CityFern Forest Cafe in Chiang Mai Old City

Koi pond in Fern Forest Cafe in Chiang Mai Old City
Koi pond in Fern Forest Cafe in Chiang Mai Old City

There is a nice Koi pond outside the building, with quite tame koi that will kiss your hand if you put them into the water.


Our last destination for the day was Khao Soi Khun Yai or Grandma’s Khao Soi, a nondescript roadside curry noodle shop in northern perimeter of the Old Town. Khao Soi is Chiang Mai’s signature dish and visitors to Chiang Mai should try this dish at least once.

I had eaten several Khao Soi during this trip. This place is reputed to have the best Khao Soi in Chiang Mai and so it is a good place for lunch when visiting Chiang Mai.

It is popular with locals and getting very popular with travellers who made a planned lunch stop here, just to taste the best Khao Soi.

Khao Soi Khun Yai or Grandma’s Khao Soi, a nondescript roadside curry noodle shop in northern perimeter of the Old Town

Beef Khao Soi at Khao Soi Khun Yai with crispy deep fried noodles as toppings.

Beef Khao Soi at Khao Soi Khun Yai with crispy deep fried noodles as toppings.


A slice of lime, chopped onions and pickled vegetables to add as toppings.

A slice of lime, chopped onions and pickled vegetables to add as toppings.


We ordered a bowl of Beef Khao Soi (40 THB) and a bowl of Chicken Khao Soi (35 THB) per couple for sharing. The dark brown curry has a unique flavour that made this Northern Thai dish special. 

I would recommend the Beef Khao Soi if you are only having one bowl. The pieces of beef are nicely cooked, tender and flavourful.

In any case, the portions are small and I could have eaten 2 bowls if I was really hungry.

The stall also sells iced drinks made from dried longan berries that complement the spicy noodles nicely.

Location of Khao Soi Khun Yai:

Located between the temples Wat Rajamontean and Wat Khuan Khamaon, on the inner perimeter of the North moat of the Old City. The stall is under a shed, slightly off the road, next to an open area.

Operating hours: 10 AM – 2 PM, Monday to Saturday.

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