21 November 2017
Nara was Japan’s first capital city. This historical city boasts eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites and hence there were plenty to see and do. In addition, visiting in autumn gave us the bonus of experiencing nice cool weather and gorgeous colourful autumn foliage. Visitors who are short of time usually included Nara to their itinerary as a day trip from either Kyoto or Osaka. We stayed 2 nights in Nara, arriving at late afternoon from the Kii Peninsula after completing our Kumano Kodo journey. This allowed us to spend an entire day to explore this cultural place at leisure before leaving for Kyoto the next morning. I also found accommodation in Nara that was cheaper than similar ones in Osaka and Kyoto.
We started the day in Nara with a nice breakfast in the Super Hotel Lohas JR Nara Eki Hotel, located at the doorsteps of the JR Nara Station.
Simple buffet breakfast in the Super Hotel Lohas JR Nara Eki located at the doorsteps of the JR Nara Station. We got window seats with views of the bus station and junction leading to Sanjo Dori.
We made a short visit to the Tourist Information Center near the station to enquire about the best places to view autumn foliage in Nara Park.
We chose to walk to Nara Park instead of taking a bus or taxi. Heading eastwards from the Nara Station, the walk took us along Sanjo Dori, past Jokoji Temple and Sarusawa-Ike Pond.
A peek inside at the courtyard of the Jokoji Temple with colourful flower arrangement at the entrance.
Mirror-like Sarusawa-Ike Pond.
Cyclists going by the Sarusawa-Ike Pond with Kofuku-Ji Five Storied Pagoda in the background.
The Kofuku-Ji Temple and the Five Storied Pagoda is located next to the pond. I was glad to see many trees with red autumn leaves along the road. It looked like we got the timing for the peak autumn leaves viewing season just right. We chose to visit Kofuku-Ji Temple later.
Our first destination of the day is the “must-see” Todai-Ji Temple, where the Daibutsu (Great Buddha) is sited. It was best to visit Nara's most popular tourist attraction and a UNESCO World Heritage Site early in the day before the day trippers and tour groups swarm in.
As we approached the park, we had our first sight of Nara Park's famed, wild but yet seemingly tame Sika deer.
This smart deer knew how to use the Zebra Pedestrian Crossing.
There are about 1200 of these deer that lived in the city. The deer became symbols of deities, and were treated as sacred and National Treasure. They were strictly protected and killing one could even be punishable by death.
Vendor selling deer biscuits next to the Nandai-mon Gate. The shika senbei, special crackers for deer that are sold for around 150 yen per bag.
The deer were everywhere and will approach humans, hoping for a handout of deer biscuits, sold by vendors and stores near the Todai-ji Temple.
Some deer would bow their heads tin return for pieces of biscuits. A few were assertive (not aggressive) and would gently nudge visitors carrying bags of biscuits if they did not get their rewards after bowing their heads.
Red autumn foliage at Nara Park.
We entered through the Nandai-mon Gate (Great South Gate), with its two huge guardian figures. Representing the Nio Guardian Kings, the statues are designated national treasures together with the gate itself.
We spend some time enjoying the views of the yellow leaf ginkgo trees and red maple trees outside the Todai-ji Museum. We did not enter the museum as it was still closed (opens at 9.30 AM).
Fallen yellow leaves of a ginkgo tree.
Deer feeding on fallen yellow leaves of a ginkgo tree.
Hands of Buddha outside the Todai-ji Museum.
We paid the entrance fees and entered the Todai-ji Temple (Great Eastern Temple) where the Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) is located. Todai-Ji is one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples and a landmark of Nara. The temple was constructed in 752 as the head temple of all provincial Buddhist temples of Japan. It grew so powerful that the capital was moved from Nara to Nagaoka in 784 in order to lower the temple's influence on government affairs.
Daibutsuden at the Todai-ji Temple at Nara. The Daibutsuden is the world's largest wooden building.
The Daibutsuden was built during the Nara period. It has been destroyed twice by fire in 1180 and again in 1567. The present reconstruction of 1692 is only two thirds of the original temple hall's size but is still the world’s largest wooden building. In front of the Daibutsuden, there is an Octagonal Lantern that dates from the time of the founding of Todai-ji.
Inside the Daibutsuden is one of Japan's largest bronze statues of Buddha. The statue was originally cast in 746, and the present statue was recast in the Edo period. This Buddha is huge. It is said that the uplifted palm is about the height of a person.
The 15 meters tall, seated Buddha is flanked by two Bodhisattvas.
At the rear of the hall, there is a pillar with a hole in it. The hole is said to be the size of the nostril of the Daibutsu. Legend has it that those who can squeeze through this opening will be granted enlightenment in their next life.
A female tourist from Thailand squeezing through the opening. She would be granted enlightenment in her next life.
There was a model of the old Todai-ji Temple with the old Daibutsuden, flanked by two tall pagodas. The pagodas were not reconstructed after destruction by fire.
Outside the Daibutsuden, there was a wooden figure of Pindola or Binzuru as he is known in Japan. Pindola was one of Buddha’s disciplines and he is reputed to have the gift of healing. It is commonly believed in Japan that if you rub the part of the statue that corresponds to the part of the body that is ailing, and then rub that ailing part of our own body, it will be cured.
Rubbing the right knee of the wooden statue of the Binzuru.
Instant relief for the tired knees after our Kumano Kodo journey.
As we leave the Daibutsuden, we saw streams of school children in bright yellow caps arriving. It is common to see school children in Japan on outings, wearing caps of same bright colour.
From the Daibutsuden, our planned next stop was the Nigatsu-do Hall (which translates to "The Hall of the Second Month"). The Nigatsudo Hall is located on the east of the Daibutsuden. We went pass the Kagami-ike pond and then head east towards it. Along the way, we spotted many trees with colourful autumn foliage.
The yellow leaves of the ginkgo trees with the red leaves of the maples.
Yellow ginkgo leaves forming a yellow carpet. This would be gone in a couple of days.
Just before arriving at the Nigatsudo, we chanced upon the Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine, with quite a lot of trees with red and yellow leaves. This place is peaceful and serene.
Autumn leaves floating on water.
The Nigatsudo Hall is located on higher ground. It offered nice views from its terrace. There were benches where one can sit to rest and take in the views, while observing the happenings within the Nigatsudo.
Steps leading to the Nigatsudo Hall.
Steps leading up to the Nigatsudo Hall.
View from the terrace of the Nigatsudo.
Lanterns at the terrace of the Nigatsudo Hall.
Fierce looking roof edge tiles at the Nigatsudo.
Purification fountain on the path leading to the rest area/teahouse at the Nigatsudo. This fountain is not for drinking.
At the side and rear of the Nigatsudo Hall, there was a rest area with clean toilets and free tea. This was good place to rest our tired feet and also a chance to learn about the Omizutori, the sacred "Water-Drawing" festival that has taken place annually in March (the second month of the lunar calendar). One of the events during the Omizutori is the Otaimatsu ceremony.
Otaimatsu ceremonial torch on display on the wall of the teahouse at the Nigatsudo. This torch could be a long as eight meters and weighs as heavy as 70 kg.
Picture in the teahouse showing the lit torch during the Otaimatsu ceremony.
In the Otaimatsu ceremony, the giant torches are carried up to Nigatsudo's balcony and held over the crowd. The burning embers, that shower down from the balcony, are thought to bestow the onlookers with a safe year.
We ended the morning with lunch at the Noodle Restaurant just opposite the Sangatsudo Hall. We knew there are more restaurants on the way to our next stop, but we could not resist the sight of the unagi on the restaurant’s menu and this restaurant offered good value-for-money set lunch.
Set lunch of grilled eel of Kagoshima with shredded egg omelette on rice, hot udon and pickle for 1180 Yen.
Eel and soya sauce udon.
After a good lunch, we continued southwards towards the Kasuga Taisha Shrine, another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
More about our visit to the Kasuga Taisha Shrine and our day in Nara in the next post.
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