Walking the Old Nakasendo Highway between Tsumago and Nagiso

25 May 2016

After checking in and resting at Fujioto Ryokan for a while, we decided to walk the Nakasendo Highway between Tsumago and Nagiso. Earlier in the day we had completed a 7.8 Km walk from Magome to Tsumago and our travelling companions were itching to do more. 

We decided to do the hike in reverse, i.e. take a bus or taxi into Nagiso and then walk back to Tsumago. We figured that it would be easier to get a taxi in Tsumago (ryokan owner helped us to call for one by phone) That way, we would be more in control of our time as dinner is served at 6 PM sharp and we could timed ourselves to arrive back by 5 PM. The Nagiso to Tsumago trail is about 3.7 km, with 117m of ascent from Nagiso and 101m of descent into Tsumago. The one way journey should take about 1 hour.

The taxi came to pick us from Tsumago at 3.30 PM and it took only 15 minutes (and 1200 Yen) to get into Nagiso. We told the driver to alight us at the far end of the Momosukebashi bridge.

 

Momosukebashi Bridge at Nagiso.

This bridge is amazing as it was a suspended bridge constructed with wood and spans 247 metres. Many hydro-electric dams was constructed near each small towns within the Kiso Valley. This bridge was built by Fukuzawa Momosuke, a wealthy industrialist who recognised the potential for hydro-electric power in the Kiso valley. This bridge was originally constructed to assist in transporting materials for the construction of a dam.

 Walking across this suspended bridge, constructed with wood and spans 247 metres.

View of the Kiso River. Looked dry but many hydro-electric dams were built across this river to power the small towns along the Kiso Valley.

We walked across the bridge, over the Kiso River and went to the Nagiso train station. Our fears of unavailability of taxis at Nagiso was unfounded. There was a taxi rank outside the station with a couple of waiting taxis. While we were there, we checked out the latest train schedule, just to be sure we don’t missed the infrequent train to Narai the next day.

Nagiso is a small town that serves as another gateway to Tsumago. Besides the bridge and the train station, there is really nothing very much of interest to visitors. It was easy to locate the trail leading from Nagiso Station to Tsumago and start on our hike.

First part of the trail was along the railway lines.

There was some old train engines at the side and a small playground too.

Nice photo opportunities.

Superman in action!

 

Shrine at the left side of the trail, opposite the old train engine

 

The trail soon swings leftwards and ascended steeply. Thankfully, the steep climb was for a short stretch only and it was an easy walk to Tsumago after that.

We passed through a hamlet with many modern looking houses, quite a few with nice Koi ponds. I could not help but stopped to admire the beautiful Japanese gardens with the characteristic Koi pond. Most of the Koi in these ponds were not of show quality. Quite surprising to me since all the best quality Koi in the world are bred in Japan.

Nice Koi pond with water wheel.

 

The houses and gardens in this hamlet has no fencing. We could walked right up to the garden and Koi pond to admire the fish.

Crystal clear waters. Would be great if there were some show quality Koi instead of Chagoi in it.

Another house with a nice Koi pond.

 

Temple near a village crossroad with what looked like a statue of the Goddess of Mercy.

 

We met an old lady in the midst of chopping some bamboo shoots at the edge of a bamboo forest. One of my travelling companion speaks Japanese and chatted with her.

She was a bit concerned that we took an interest in what she was doing and she quickly assured us that this is her land and the bamboos belongs to her.

She placed the harvested bamboo into a traditional basket, strapped it across her shoulders and then picked up a pair of poles to go home. Modern hiking poles! What a combination!

  Cat showing an interest in us and following us on the trail.

 

We came to 3 way junction with a confusing sign with no English text to point which way leads to Tsumago. Some kind person had placed a little sticker in English to mark the right fork to take for Tsumago. Thank you!

Back to the Fujioto Ryokan.

We got back to Fujioto slightly after 5 PM, just in time for a shower and a soak in the hot bath before our dinner at 6 PM. The kaiseki dinner at Fujioto was superb! I will share in the next post.

Overall the walk from Nagiso to Tsumago took us about 1.5 hours. In total, we had walked more than 11 km on this day; 7.8 km from Magome to Tsumago and then 3.7 km from Nagiso to Tsumago.

One of the things not to miss along the Nakasendo Trail was to explore and experience walking around the post-towns at night, dressed in traditional yukatas.

Tsumago was practically deserted at night, except for the few tourists dressed in yukatas trying to take photos using smartphones.

Tsumago, lit only by lamps outside each house.

Tsumago, at night, was somehow not as atmospheric compared to Magome. Nevertheless, still fun.