igoiseeishoot: Gyeongju-Busan-Seoul Day 4 – Hiking Mount Namsan through the Samneung valley

6 May 2012

From the official Visit Korea website,

“Namsan Mountain is generally referred to as a museum without walls with about 100 temple locations, 80 stone Buddha, and 60 stone pagodas. Because the cultural assets are scattered around, it would easily take a month to see them all. Therefore, it is best to plan a hike that can cover most of what you want to see”.

So, after some research, we decided to take the recommended route for first timers - the hiking route through the Samneungol Valley. This place has the largest collection of Buddhist relics amongst the 40 valleys of Mt. Namsan.

From the Bomun Resort, we took Bus #11 to the city centre, alighting near the Gyeongju train station, crossed the road and catch any of the following bus (#500 to #508, except #502). But first, a quick stop at a convenience store near the bus-stop to buy a bottle of water and 2 Snickers bar. This is to help sustain us for the trip.

We got off at the right stop with the aid of the Korean-language in-bus announcement before each stop. Just need to listen for the keyword “Samneung”. There were other hikers, so it was easy not to miss the stop.

We arrived at 8.45 am and it was a cool and clear morning. Perfect for the hike.

Trail leading into the Samneung valley and the three royal tombs.

The name “Samneung” comes from the three Royal Tombs at the entrance of the Samneungol Valley, which is the start of the trail. A short distance into the trail, we came to the 3 tombs. The tombs are like those we saw at the Tumuli Park, same shape but smaller in size.

Three Royal Tomb at Samneung Valley.

This signpost is interesting and looked familiar. We saw similar stone tablets outside the Sampo Ssambap restaurant a few days back.

It was easy going at the trail head and we soon came to the first Buddhist relic in the valley, a headless stone statue.

Taking a rocky path, located on the left of this statue, will lead uphill to another relic, a Gwaneumbosal (Goddess of Mercy) carved out the rock cliff.

We met a Korean woman, sitting solemnly on the foot of the Gwaneumbosal, praying. We did not linger here and quietly left after taking a few photos from a distance.

Gwaneumbosal (Goddess of Mercy) carved out the rock cliff.

Next up, we came to a clearing in front of a natural rock wall. Six Buddhist images were carved in lines on two large rocks forming the “wall”. The lines were faint and it was not easy to see the entire picture.

Yukjonbul Carved on Rock Surface. On one rock is the central Buddha, franked by two kneeling Bodhisvattvas. On another rock, the main Buddha is seated on a lotus pedastal, franked by two seated Bodhisvattvas. It was difficult to make out the faint lines on the rocks.

This trail is popular with hikers. We met many groups along the same trail. It was quite well signposted, so a detailed map was not really needed. We just needed to be observant, and spotting the next Buddhist relic along the trail became sort of like a “treasure hunt”. Every relic was a checkpoint on our journey up the trail.

Seated Stone Buddha of Samneung Valley.

Next up, was a stone statue of a Buddha sitting cross-legged on a lotus pedestal with a halo behind. We were now about half-way up to the top of Mount Namsan.

We took a short rest break here and shared a Snickers bar between us.

Taking a rest break at the site of the Seated Stone Buddha of Samneung Valley.

From here, the trail started getting steeper and steeper. We met a Korean couple who were man-packing their child and a knapsack up the trail. Impressed by their fitness!

Over-taken by a man carrying his child on his back and his wife carrying a knapsack. The woman was carrying the child on the earlier part of the trail. Here, the going gets tough.

This part of the trail was steep and strenuous. Fortunately, some parts have man-made steps. The steep slope led us to the Sangseonam hermitage. Many hikers were resting here, after the steep climb to get here.

Sangseonam hermitage – a good resting place before making the final push to the summit.

After the hermitage, we followed a marked trail to the top. We were looking out for the “Ma-ae-seokga-yeorae-jwasang,” a large relief carving of a seated Sakyamuni, looking out over Gyeongju. But we came to the top without seeing the relic. We were thinking that we could have missed a signpost. Never mind, we would try to spot it on the way down.

This is still not the peak but high enough for panoramic views of the Gyeongju landscape.

View of the Geumojeong Pavilion in the distance along the ridgeline.

We continued along the trail, this time along the ridge of the Namsan and we finally saw the large relief carving of a seated Sakyamuni, looking out over Gyeongju. Anyone, not specifically looking out for it will tend to miss seeing this impressive piece of stone carving.

“Ma-ae-seokga-yeorae-jwasang,” a relief carving of a seated Sakyamuni, looking out over Gyeongju.

We saw a trail leading to the site of the Sakyamuni but it was fenced off. Else, we would have gone to the foot of the Buddha. We later learnt that this site was used as a filming location for one scene in the Korean drama Queen Seondeok.

It was an almost level walk of some distance along the ridge of the mountain range before we came to a stone marker informing us that we had made it to the top. It was about 11.40 AM as we took the mandatory “Jeff was here” photo. 468m above sea level, I think the sign said.

Stone marker at the Geumobong Peak.

We found a shady spot and sat on some rocks to take our “lunch” consisting of the remaining Snicker bar and half a bottle of water.

The Koreans were much better prepared logistically. Groups of Korean men and women were having their picnic at the top. Korean food, thermos flash of hot water/tea, even oranges, grapes, and other goodies came out from their knapsack as they sat down in circles to enjoy their lunch.

We decided to go down the same way we came. If we were physically fitter, we would have attempted to go down via another trail, perhaps one that leads to the Chibulam hermitage on the other side of the Mount Namsan. The way down took only slightly shorter time as we have to factor in our poor footwear which makes getting down a bit trickier on the sandy slopes. Also, we were more tired now. Every step requiring more mental effort than before.

By the time we reached the main road, it was 2 PM. We saw a large banner informing visitors that some scenes from the popular Korean TV drama series “Queen Seondeok” was shot on Mount Namsan.

Banner showing scenes from Queen Seondeok. The location was the “Ma-ae-seokga-yeorae-jwasang,” a relief carving of a seated Sakyamuni, looking out over Gyeongju.

There were kalguksu restaurants near the entrance to the Samneung valley. Kalguksu is handmade, knife-cut wheat flour noodles served in a large bowl with broth.

We found one easily and ordered two different varieties of noodle soup to share.

Kalguksu with clear broth.