9 April 2010
Ullapool is an ideal base from which to explore Wester Ross and the Highlands of Scotland. The plan for Day 7 of our England-Scotland driving holiday was to explore the Coigach and Assynt peninsula north of Ullapool by car. This route which brings us to some of the most remote but beautiful places in the Scottish Highlands would requires driving on single-track roads, with some parts very narrow and winding. A single track road is one where the road is just wide enough for one car to pass. This would be first time that we would be driving on the single-track roads in Scotland, so I was excited and a little apprehensive about what to expect.
Tip: For first timers like me, it was important to READ THIS before driving on the single track roads in Scotland.
We started the day with a wonderful breakfast at Broombank B&B in Ullapool. Good food and excellent view of the Loch Broom from the table. Our host, Shirley, came to chat with us over breakfast. She is so warm and friendly and keeps reminding us to let her know if there is anything else we need.
Broombank B&B, Ullapool. Nice views of Loch Broom from the breakfast table.
We set off at about 10 am and took the A835 north out from Ullapool. Sky was cloudy but no rain when we left. Shirley told us over breakfast that it was raining the few days before we came.
Before long, we were enjoying the stunning views of the Scottish highland. The low clouds make the photos looked so dramatic.
View of cloud covered Ben More - taken on the A835 north of Ullapool. Stac Pollaidh in the distant background on the left.
At about 10 miles north of Ullapool, we took a side road on the left towards Achiltibuie. The single track road passed by the north side of Loch Lurgainn, and under the foot of Stac Pollaidh where there was a car park for hikers to leave the cars/bikes when ascending Stac Pollaidh.
Single track road leading to Achiltibuie. This single track road passed by the north side of Loch Lurgainn, and under the foot of Stac Pollaidh.
Panorama of Ben More Coigach with Loch Lurgainn, taken at the car park at the foot of Stac Pollaidh.
Loch Lurgainn, taken at the car park at the foot of Stac Pollaidh.
Continuing on this single track road would lead us to Achiltibuie. Instead of going there, we took a minor road on the right that pointed to Lochinver.
The following is a video of driving on narrow single track road towards Inverkirkaig, on the way to Lochinver. But then, I had more or less got used to driving on the single track roads but this part was quite tricky.
It was a beautiful scenic drive and quite fun for the driver but the passengers (especially the wife) were more tense than the driver. A bit of drizzle that came on and off makes the drive slightly more hazardous on the wet road.
Most parts of this road had no guard rails or fencing on the side and a mistake would meant the car going into the ditch or loch.
At some points, the road were so narrow that the proximity sensors on the Mercedes E-class sedan sounded alarms as we almost scrapped the car against the stone fencing or wall. This video also demonstrated the use of passing places and some best practices for tourists on such roads. Go slow, enjoy the views, let the faster local drivers pass.
We arrived safe and sound at the small village of Kirkaig.
Rocky beach by Loch Kirkaig near Inverkirkaig, on the way to Lochinver.
Driving into Kirkaig.
Kirkaig has its origins as Kirkju-vik meaning church bay in Old Norse, suggesting that there was a settlement with a church here in Viking times.
Continuing on, we reached Lochinver at about 11.30 AM. The first place we visited was the Assynt Visitor Centre. Besides being a Tourist Information Centre, it is also a bookshop, museum of natural and social history, activity centre and base for the Highland Council rangers.
At carpark behind the Assynt Visitor Centre in Lochinver.
Assynt Visitor Centre at Lochinver.
We spent some time viewing the exhibits within and also crossed the road to view Loch Inver (the loch, not the town).
Boat at Lochinver harbour, shot using a telephoto lens from outside the Assynt Visitor Centre.
Cottages at Lochinver, Scottish Highlands. I like the colour contrast between the red boat against the white cottage and green trimmings.
We went into Lochinver looking for a place to eat. Lochinver is a small village along the A835 which run parallel to the Inver river.
We parked the car at a carpark, next to a gas station, and explored the town on foot. Further down the road along the A835, we chanced upon a pie shop called the Lochinver Larder. The pies were one of the best I have eaten. To this day, my wife was still craving for the Lochinver pies. I wonder if we would have a chance to return to this place again.
Resource: I use the driving route as described in this website.
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