16 December 2011
Yanzihkou (Swallow Grotto) is one of the most impressive and interesting place within Taroko Gorge National Park. This is the place where the rock cliffs of the Liwu River gorge seem to reach to heaven while the river runs its swiftest and the distance between the gorge walls are so narrow that they almost seem to touch each other.
We reached Yanzihkou (Swallow Grotto) shortly after 2 PM. Tiffany told us the road ahead was being controlled due to construction work. Vehicles were allowed to pass only at 2.30 PM and 3.30 PM. So we would have about an hour to explore this place and make the crossing at 3.30 PM.
There are two tunnels. The newer tunnel is the one which we came by, from west to east and used solely by vehicles. The old highway is now a pedestrian path and is also open to vehicular traffic going west only and the vehicles must proceed slowly.
There is another suspension bridge here but it was closed. This bridge is part of the Swallow Grotto (Yanzihkou) walking trail that leads to Cimu Bridge.
Tiffany told us to walk through the pedestrian tunnel while she drove the taxi back to meet us at the other end. There were signs warning visitors of the dangers of rock falls and landslides. Helmets are recommended but we had none.
As there was no traffic coming through from east to west before 2.30 PM, we had the whole tunnel to ourselves. Through openings in the dark tunnels, we could see and enjoy the views of the swift flowing Liwu River, flanked by beautiful marble walls, plus the potholes on the cliff faces. There were a few springs, sprouting water along the lower parts of the walls.
The rock cliffs of the Liwu River gorge seem to reach to sky above.
The peace and tranquillity did not last for long. We were soon overran by waves of helmeted tourists from a convoy of tour buses that came through once the road was reopened at 2.30 PM. The swarm of people created some new photo opportunities, although it was difficult to stand still to take a photo in the dark narrow tunnels with people and buses making their way along close to you.
We met Tiffany at the mid point of the trail where she pointed out a famous rock formation known as the "Chieftain's profile rock" and helped us take a group photo. The chief’s profile face is on the right side of the photo, just above the water.
She also got a fellow tour guide to take a photo of us with her. This was posted in Tiffany’s facebook page.
We had to cross a bridge that leads to the second part of the trail. The photo below shows the bridge and the second part of the trail.
Fascinating demonstration of the beauty of nature and man’s engineering capabilities in the above pictures. It was interesting to see the buses crawling into the tunnels, with only a foot or two to spare on each sides of the tunnel.
I paused at the bridge to take a picture of the small water cascade pouring clear mountain water into the greyish waters of the Liwu river.
Swallow Grotto got its name from the swallows that fly through the caves in spring and summer and nested along the rocks edges. The only swallow I saw was this figurine on the bridge.
Some parts of the trails are marked with signs warning of rocks falls. Not a place to linger too long. Especially since we did not have any safety helmets on. In any case, the helmet would be useless if a hugh boulder were to drop on you.
All too soon, it was 3.30 PM and we made the crossing to continue our journey to the Eternal Spring Shrine, our next stop in Taroko National Park.
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