Our visit to the Amano-iwato Shrine and Amano-yasukawara

6 November 2024

After a day out exploring Mount Aso, we drove down south to Iwato to visit the famous Amano-iwato Shrine and Amano-yasukawara, a cave with a shrine inside.

Amano-yasukawara, a cave with a shrine inside.

We would also stay overnight at the Hana Iwato Ryokan, a small traditional Japanese inn located near to the shrine. Iwato is a good place to stay as we planned to drive to the gorgeous Takachiho Gorge the next morning. Takachiho Gorge is only 11 km (less than 30 minutes drive) away.

Amano-iwato Shrine consists of two shrines, the East Shrine and the West Shrine. There is a paid parking next to the Amano-iwato West Shrine which is most visited but we chose to park at a free parking lot next to our ryokan (location here). This is actually the public car park for the Amano-iwato East Shrine that is lesser known.     

From there, it was a short walk across a bridge and through a shopping street to get to the Amano-iwato West Shrine. It was slightly past 4 PM on a weekend and the shopping street was almost deserted at this time of day. 

Shopping street just outside the Amano-iwato Shrine. A torii gate marks the entrance to the shrine.

It is good to read up on the Ama-no-Iwato myth before visiting so as to better appreciate what we would be seeing.

What is the Ama-no-Iwato myth?

According to Japanese mythology, Amaterasu-Omikami is the goddess of the sun whose name means ''The Great Divinity That Illuminates Heaven.”

In the myth, Amaterasu was overcome with guilt after her younger brother Susano-o, the Storm God, accidentally killed a weaver with a practical joke. She sealed herself in the cave with a Heavenly Rock, plunging the world into darkness which is not a good thing.

The gods gathered to devise a plan to lure Amaterasu out of the cave. They created a party, gifts, and a ritual involving a dance and laughter. The gods decorated an evergreen tree with beads and hung a mirror in its center. Amaterasu became curious and opened the cave door to peek. A powerful god pulled her out of the cave and shut the Heavenly Rock behind her. There is light again!

Statue of Ame-no-Tajikarao

On the left side of the entrance, there is a large statue of Ame-no-Tajikarao, the physically powerful god who pulled Amaterasu out of the Amano-Iwato Cave when she peeked out to have a look. He also threw away the Heavenly Rock at the cave entrance in order to prevent Amaterasu-Omikami from hiding in the cave again.

Statue of Ame-no-Tajikarao, the physically powerful god located next to the car park at Amano-iwato Shrine.

Amano-iwato Shrine

The Amano-iwato Shrine is dedicated to the Amaterasu. It is located near the Amano-iwato cave where Amaterasu hid. The west shrine sits on one side of Iwato River, with the cave perched high up on a cliff on the other side of the river. The cave is not accessible for casual visitors.

Amano-iwato Shrine

Like the shopping street outside, the grounds at the shrine was quiet and peaceful when we visited. The tour buses with the hoards of visitors usually come earlier, coupled with their visit to Takachiho Gorge.

We did not enter the shrine. Instead we continued along the path, past several cafés and souvenir shops, to Amano-Yasukawara. A path leads down into a lush forest towards the Iwato River.

Amano-Yasukawara

Amano-Yasukawara is a cave located along the Iwato River. It is about a 10-minute walk from the Amano-iwato Shrine.  This is said to be the cave where the gods and goddesses met to discuss their strategy of luring Amaterasu out of hiding.

Midway to the Amano-Yasukawara, there is an arched bridge stretching over the Iwato River. This is a good spot to soak in the atmosphere of the place.

Bridge crossing a stream leading to the Iwato River.

Soaking in the serenity along the path to the cave-shrine.

We arrived at an enormous cave called the Gyoubogaya-Iwaya Cave. It is about 40 meters wide and 30 meters deep. It is said to be the spot where eight million gods gathered to discuss their strategy of luring Amaterasu out of hiding.

Note: This is not the cave that Amaterasu hid! The cave is actually behind the Amano-Iwato Shrine and not accessible to normal visitors.

A shimenawa (sacred rope) is hung across the entrance to the cave. These ropes are made from dried straw fibers and are used to indicate the border of a sacred space. The Amano-Yasukawara Shrine is located within the Gyoubogaya-Iwaya Cave.

The Amano-Yasukawara Shrine is located within the Gyoubogaya-Iwaya Cave.

It is said that if you make a wish while stacking rocks at Amano-Yasukawara, your wish will come true. Hence, there were many stacks of stones all around. 

Stacks of stones all round and the darkness of the cave made the place seemed so mystical.     

Stacks of stone by the Iwato River.

It was a nice place to visit late in the day when it was less crowded. We managed to shoot some photos at the cave when all the other people had left.

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Exploring Minami-aso – Kamado, Shirakawa Spring, Takamori and Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine

6 November 2024

After a visit to the volcanic peaks of Mount Aso in the morning, we continued along Route 111 to the southern part of the Aso caldera known as Minami-aso. Route 111 is also known as the Aso Panorama Line and it lives up to its name.

We stopped at the Minami-Aso Panorama Line Viewpoint located near the hairpin curve of the Route 111 connecting Minami-aso and the Aso Mountains. It offers magnificent views of Nango Valley and the southern outer rim of the Aso caldera.

Minami-aso as viewed from the lookout point along Route 111.

An information board with a map gave a good overview of the relative location of Minami-aso within the giant Aso caldera that measures 25 kilometers north to south and 18 kilometers east to west. It also shows the location of numerous natural water sources (springs) and onsens in the village.

Map of Minami-aso.

Located south of the Aso Five Peaks, Minami-aso is a prosperous farming and dairy community. We could see the checkerboard patterns of the rice fields in the village. The area’s volcanic soil is fertile and is also a great place for the raising the local breed of cattle that produces the Akaushi beef. 

Farms and rice fields around Minami-aso.

The area is also well known for its numerous natural springs. We have planned to visit the Shirakawa Spring, selected as one of the 100 finest waters in Japan.

Driving down Route 111 to Minami-aso.

Lunch at Kamado

The first place we went to in Minami-aso is the Kamado Restaurant. Located slightly off Route 325, it was a little difficult to find using Google Maps but with a little perseverance and common sense, we managed to locate a narrow gravel road leading to Kamado and another soba restaurant called Hoozuki Soba (closed on this day). We parked on the gravel patch just outside the restaurant.

Since it was past lunch hour at 12.50 PM when we arrived, we need not have to wait long to get a table. This restaurant has a nice interior and seems very popular. The menu was all in Japanese but had pictures of the food. They had the popular Akaushi beef bowl that we tried at the North Mountain Restaurant so we skipped that. We ordered the pork cutlet set and Akaushi beef steak set that came with a salad and fried tofu. 

Choregi salad and fried tofu served with the sets.

Pork cutlet set with a delicious sauce and sesame seeds garnishing. The pork is nicely grilled and tender.

Akaushi steak set. The steak is garnished with salty pickled mustard greens and tiny bits of seaweed.

The food was delicious and the ambience of this restaurant was good. A nice start to our half-day in Minami-aso.

Shirakawa Spring or Shirakawa Suigen

Although I had pre-marked several small natural springs or water sources in the town, I figured that we only had time for the largest. We drove down Route 325 eastwards, following the directions given by Google Maps to Shirakawa Spring.

It was nice to drive through the rural areas of Japan. We could see the southern rim of the Aso caldera in front as we drove through the flat plain within the caldera.

Along the journey to Shirakawa Spring. The southern rim of the Aso caldera could be seen in the background. 

Shirakawa Spring is located in the middle of a built-up area. There were ample free parking in the vicinity but all requires a short walk of few hundred meters through a shaded path to get to the actual entrance of the spring. We had to pay a small entrance fee of 100 yen per person that goes into maintenance of the area.

The spring itself is not photogenic or impressive by appearance but 60 tons of water actually gushes out per minute. The water that we saw gushing out from under the gravel in the spring was very clear. The temperature of the water is constant at 14 degrees Celsius throughout the year. 

Shirakawa Spring Source is so famous that Ministry of Environment chose it as one of the 100 Best Natural Waters in Japan.

Bubbles rises to the top of the pool as clear spring water gushes out from under the gravel.

Shirakawa Spring in Minami-aso

Visitors who brought bottles could collect water from the spring for drinking but we skipped that.

Local people were seen collecting water from the spring.

There is also a shrine at the spring called Yoshimi Shrine and is said to protect Shirakawa Suigen.

Takamori Station and One Piece Statue of Franky

Our next stop in Minami-aso is at the Takamori Train Station. This station is where the One Piece statue of Franky is located.

One Piece Statue of Franky at Takamori Station. 

On April 14, 2016, Eiichiro Oda, a manga artist and creator of the series One Piece, donated ¥800,000,000 to help reconstruct his home city of Kumamoto after it was struck by two earthquakes. He also wrote supportive messages, and drew art for local products. In 2018, Kumamoto Prefecture awarded Mr. Oda the People’s Honor Award. After rebuilding Kumamoto, the governor Ikuo Kabashima announced that they would build statues of the Straw Hat Pirates to thank Eiichiro Oda for his help.

The Luffy Statue was installed at the Kumamoto Prefectural Promenade to symbolize Kumamoto’s post-disaster recovery. Subsequently, additional statues of the One Piece Pirates were installed all over Kumamoto Prefecture, including Franky in front of Takamori Station.

At the site of each statue, there are collectable figures for sale. These are sold on a first come first serve basis. Most of the statues of popular characters were already sold out, including Franky.

Original release of the One Piece figure of Franky was sold out.

However, the second series of the figurines, in colour but not based on the statues, are available.

Second release (figure in colour but not based on the statue) are available but slightly more expensive.

Takamori Station is also the place to ride some fancy trains including the One Piece Sunny-go Train. The Sunny-go is a special train decorated both inside and out with all things One Piece! The train was not in operation during our visit.

One-Piece themed Sunny-go train resting in the hangar.

Having some fun with the Sunny-go train cutout. 

Overall, Takamori Station is quite peaceful and scenic. We could see several One Piece fans snapping photos of Franky.

While loitering around the station, snapping photos, we heard the sound of an approaching train. We waited in expectation but it turned out to be a regular train.

The Minami-aso Railway train at Takamori Station is still worth a photo.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine

The last place we visited in Minami-aso before leaving the Aso Caldera for Iwato and Takachiho is Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine. It required a slight detour from our route to Iwato but I think it was worth a visit.

From Takamori, we drove about 10 minutes northwards on Route 265. We parked at an unpaved gravel parking space (location here) along Route 265 across from the shrine.

The shrine is located on a hill within a cypress forest and not visible from the highway. This shrine is famous for its steep stone steps that lead to the main pavilion at the top. The stairs are decorated with approximately 100 ancient-looking, moss covered stone lanterns on both sides. With tall cedars tree of the forest surrounding the path, the dimly lit path looked like a gateway to another world and is a good place for photos.

A water bath with stone basins and ladles for the symbolic cleansing of the body and mind that takes place before entering the shrine.

Going up the path with around three hundred stone steps. The steps are quite uneven.   

Moss covered stone lanterns on both sides of the path. 

First view of the shrine behind the torii gate.  

Torii gate just before reaching the top.

View from the top of the path. The walk up through the serene forest was actually quite nice, despite the steps.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine.

Large bells hung over entrance. Devotees ring them to call the kami (god).

The journey to the shrine was a nice experience but the shrine itself is small and not so impressive. However, there are more to explore behind the shrine.

Walking to the left of the shrine, we could see a rock archway in the hill above. There is a concrete walking path that leads up there.

We could see bright light coming through a small hole in the rocky hill above.      Taking the path to the hole.

After a steep climb up, we arrived at the arch. This is called Ugetoiwa. It is said that if you go through the arch, all your goals and ambitions will come true. It is customary to touch the rock archway and then make a prayer or wish.

We saw some people praying and tossing a coin into the box so their wish would come true. Some would stick their coin onto a rock by the side of the archway.

A shimenawa (sacred rope) across the entrance to the Ugetoiwa wind hole. These ropes are made from dried straw fibers and are used to indicate the border of a sacred space.

Tossing a coin after their prayers.

Coins stuck on a huge rock at the side of the archway.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine was not the only shrine we visited on this day. We would be staying at a ryokan in Iwato for one night before visiting the famous Takachiho Gorge the next day. At Iwato, there is another famous shrine called the Amano-iwato Shrine and another small shrine inside a cave called the Amano-yasukawara.

Next post: Our visit to the Amano-iwato Shrine and Amano-yasukawara.

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Visiting Mount Aso – Yomezuka, active volcano Mount Nakadake and Kusasenri grassland

8 November 2024

We stayed overnight at Minshuku Asogen located in Aso City so that we could visit Mount Aso and its volcanos in the morning. From Minshuku Asogen, we followed the directions given by Google Maps but could not find the inconspicuous turn-off from Highway 57. After a few unsuccessful attempts, going up and down Highway 57, we decided to ditch the route Google Maps recommended and just follow the road signs to Mount Aso instead.

The road signs pointed us to use Prefectural Road 111 that will lead us all the way to the Aso Volcano Museum and Mount Nakadake.

Highway 111, also known as the Aso Panorama Drive, is a scenic drive up the mountain. We drove slowly, looking out for Komezuka, an 80 meters high volcanic cone that is supposed to be quite photogenic. 

We saw a small hill that looked like a overturned bowl of rice with a small depression on its top, located on the rigth side of the highway. We found a safe place to park our car by the side of the road (Google Maps location here).

With Komezuka in the background.

Yomezuka is said to have been formed by an eruption about 3,300 years ago. The depression at its top is actually the crater of the volcano.

We stopped once more at a spot further down highway 111 to view Yomezuka from another angle. In autumn, the Japanese pampa grass swaying in the wind made the view more scenic.

The mountains in the background is the rim of the Aso caldera. Japanese pampa grass is in the foreground during autumn.

We parked our car at a free car park (location here) next to an observation deck. This lookout point offers a good view of Mount Aso’s mountains, the grassland called Kusasenrigahama and the large parking area outside the Aso Volcano Museum.

Signboard explaining the landscape in front of us at the observation deck.

The wind was quite strong here. Our hiking jackets kept us warm and comfortable while we enjoyed the views.

We saw Nakadake, the active volcano in Mount Aso, spewing white clouds of steam and gas. I took some time-lapse videos of the gases and steam emitting from Nakadake and the clouds above it.

Time-lapse vide of the gases and steam emitting from Nakadake.

View of the general Mount Aso area with the parking area, the grassland called Kusasenrigahama and Nakadake volcano in the back.

Kusasenrigahama (“Grassland of a Thousand Miles” ) is the dormant floor of an ancient volcanic crater. It is quite vast and ponds could be seen on it.  Behind the grassland is Mount Eboshidake.

Large pond on the grassland of Kusasenrigahama with the hiking trail to the top of Mount Eboshisake behind. 

There is another observation deck to our left but we did not go there. Instead, we took a short walk down to the Aso Volcano Museum.

Trail leading down from the observation deck to the Aso Volcano Museum. 

The best way to enjoy a visit to Mount Aso is to drive up to the edge of Mount Nakadake and view the crater within. This could be done of the eruption alert level is low. I was checking the website https://www.aso-volcano.jp on a regular basis on this day.

The good news was that the alert level was low, so the toll road up to Nakadake crater was opened. The bad news was that the wind direction was blowing gases in the wrong direction. Most areas were restricted due to gas emissions. Visitors could only view the crater from the visitor center, not from the edge of the crater. Hence, we decided not to go up to the crater.

Our Plan B, if we could not drive up to the Nakadake crater, was to do a 2 hour loop hike up and down Eboshidake. The weather was not looking good and we could see storm clouds swirling on top of Mount Eboshidake. So Plan B was aborted too.

Mount Eboshidake.

Plan C was to chill at a cafe and take a walk around Kusasenrigahama. We had coffee at the Kusasenri Coffee Roastery. The drip coffee was very good. We also bought some Kumamoto souvenirs from the shop next to the cafe.

We crossed the road and entered into the Kusasenrigahama grassland. The weather seems to be slightly better compared to when we arrived.

We hiked up a small knoll on our left to get a closer view of Nakadake volcano. Although the eruption alert level was 1, there were quite a lot of gases being emitted from the crater. 

Viewing the volcanic cloud escaping from the crater of Nakadake.

A sightseeing helicopter flying over the crater.

Smoking Nakadake on this day.

Taking more time lapse photos of the volcanic clouds.

After we had enough of Nakedake, we went to see the horses at Kusasenrigahama. Visitors to Mount Aso could ride horses from the operators located on the vast grassland. Business is not too bad. We saw many visitors riding horses around the grassy plains.

View of the knoll from Kusasenrigahama.

Horse riders are led by the handlers round a set course.

 

We spend some time to take photos of the horses. They are bigger than I expected and so well groomed.

A row of horses waiting for riders.

Break time for this horse.

Almost mirror image?

It was about noon time when we left Mount Aso. The plan for the rest of the day was to have lunch and visit a few places in southern part of Mount Aso called Minami-aso.

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