Dinner at Morning Glory Restaurant in Hoi An

5 March 2026

We went to the Morning Glory Restaurant for our first dinner at Hoi An Ancient Town. I remembered eating at the already famous and popular Morning Glory Restaurant during my first visit to Hoi An in 2017. In fact, the food was so good that we ate there twice.

Located in the heart of the old town, the Morning Glory Restaurant at that time was operated by Ms Vy who also runs a cooking school. This restaurant offers gourmet Vietnamese dining experience within the ancient town. The menu is extensive, prices are slightly higher than what you could expect in Hoi An but the food is value for money.

The restaurant is named after “morning glory“ or “water spinach”, which is one of the most common vegetables consumed in Vietnam. In South East Asia, the vegetable is known as “kangkong” and is a popular dish where the tender shoots along with the leaves are stir fried with garlic and sambal belacan. This plant is resilient, thrive in muddy waters and very easy to grow.

Like the plant itself, Morning Glory has thrived and grown. There is now 4 Morning Glory Restaurants within the old town. The one I went to previously is now named Morning Glory Original, still focusing on authentic Vietnamese cuisine. The newer stores includes Morning Glory Signature, co-located with Morning Glory Lounge Bar and Restaurant that features modern Vietnamese cuisine and live music in the bar, and Morning Glory Countryside highlighting the charm of the countryside.

Map showing the locations and addresses of each Morning Glory restaurants in Hoi An.

On this trip, we went to the newer Morning Glory Signature Restaurant, located just next to the river. Although we did not make any reservations, we had no problem getting seated immediately. We were seated on the 2nd floor of the two-storey house.

Our travel group of 4 couples seated at the 2nd floor of Morning Glory Signature Restaurant.

It is advantageous to dine in a large group of 8 .We could order a larger variety of dishes to share. 

On this night, we ordered the chicken curry, banh xeo, grilled half chicken, tofu, squid, prawn salad, beef rice an of course morning glory stir-fried with garlic.

Crispy Banh Xeo with pork skewers and delicious peanut sauce.

Pomelo salad with prawn and pork.

Mango and squid. 

Tofu dish.

Grilled half chicken with rice. Surprising tender chicken.

Vietnamese curry chicken with local vegetables served with steamed white rice and baguette to dip into the curry sauce. The curry taste sweeter than what we are used to. But still delicious. 

Beef with fried rice. This was the only disappointing dish.

Morning Glory or kangkong as it is called in South East Asia, stir fried with garlic and chilli.

The local beer is extremely cheap and is a must try.

The local beer such as the Huda and Larue is extremely cheap but is quite light in taste. The Larue looks like the  stronger tasting Singapore’s Tiger beer but is actually named after a Frenchman, Victor Larue. It is a Vietnamese lager brand, originally brewed in 1909 by a Frenchman, Victor Larue, It is currently owned by Heineken Vietnam.

Overall, the food was delicious but rather pricey compared to what we had for lunch.

We also went to check out the night views from the roof terrace. Since the restaurant is located by the Thu Bon River, we could see the busy streetscape below. Hoi An seemed to be more crowded than before.

View of the Hoi An riverside from the terrace of the restaurant.

Every night, Hoi An glows with thousands of silk lanterns, especially along the river banks. Visitors can ride boats on the river and release candle-lit paper lanterns for good luck but I find the practice not good for the environment. 

Boats waiting for passengers at the riverbank.

We walked around riverfront a bit to enjoy the vibes before meeting the driver of our chartered van to take us back to Hoiana New World Hotel. We will have more time to explore the old town the next day.

The iconic Japanese Covered Bridge still stands strong. This landmark actually features on the 20,000 VND banknote.

Interesting name for a cafe/restaurant. Beware of the coffee.

Shop selling the iconic Hoi An lanterns.

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Experiencing the Coconut Boat Tour in Hoi An

6 March 2026

One of Hoi An’s popular tourist activities is the Coconut Boat tour that offers an unique experience in Vietnam. Here, tourists could ride the iconic Vietnamese basket boat through serene waterways and coconut forest, plus more which I would described later.

What is a “coconut” boat?

The “coconut” boat is actually a large circular bamboo basket boat known as thúng chai. They are traditional, hand-woven, circular vessels primarily used by fishermen in Central Vietnam to navigate coastal waters and rivers.

This basket boat was invented during the French colonial era. During that time, the authorities began to levy a tax on the ownership of boats. Most of the poor Vietnamese fishermen who depended on boats for their livelihood could not afford to pay the taxes. So, the ingenious Vietnamese invented a new type of “boat” woven from bamboo strips and coated with tar for waterproofing. This round basket “boat” is functional but technically not a wooden boat, so escaped the tax! 

I first saw this boat and even had a chance to row one when I visited Banyan Tree Lang Co in 2017. See my post here.

The coconut boat tour at Hoi An is vastly different from what I experienced back then. The coconut boat tour in Hoi An is more touristy and includes singing, dancing and boat spinning performances.

There are many operators offering this activity in the Bay Mau coconut forest, just north of the Cua Dai Estuary and 5 minutes drive away from our hotel.

Beware of the Entrance Fee Scam

Most people would enjoy the coconut boat tour by booking a package through a tour operator. For us, we came on our own. We had booked a private van with driver to bring us from our hotel to the Bay Mau Coconut Forest area.

Once we alighted from our vehicle, we were approached by touts offering boat tours services. One of the couples in my group had been to Hoi An several times before and had also recently took a coconut boat tour here. So, we had an boat tour operator in mind before we came.

From the car park, we walked towards the village and were stopped by a man in uniform pointing to a sign that says we had to pay an entrance fee of 40,000 VND per person.

My friend who had been here recently did not have to pay anything to enter the village, so she knew something was fishy. The man kept pointing to the sign and asked for money but we refused to give in. For me, 40,000 VND is not a lot of money but we do not like being scammed. Eventually, we called our van driver who spoke to the guy. He probably told him to give up since we know that this is a scam.

Our driver also called our intended boat tour operator who sent out a guy to escort us in.

Following our “escort”, we walked through the village. There are many stores along the way offering souvenirs and snacks. I think these legit shops should stop the ”entrance fee scammer” since he is adversely affecting their business.

Village road leading to the boat tour operator. There are shops on both sides selling souvenirs and snacks.

Our Coconut Tour

Where we did our coconut boat tour.

As we approached the premises of the tour operator, we were welcomed by loud Korean music. Apparently, there are many Korean tourists in Da Nang and Hoi An.

We had to cross a narrow wooden bridge to get across the river.

Even posing for photos on the bridge can be fun. 

Colourful floats decorated the sides and top of the wooden bridge, forming a welcoming tunnel.

Many empty thúng chai waiting for their passengers.

 
The cost of taking the boat tour is negotiable. Our “leader” who had been here before bargained the cost down to 120,000 VND per couple per boat. We told them we do not want to experience the crazy boat spinning during our rides before the start of the tour. Some tour operators would do this during the tour and asked for the passengers for more money for the extra “service”.

Selfie with our boatman.

Bamboo hats are provided to add to the local experience and shield our heads from the sun.

It is best to help each other snap photos during the boat tour.

Once everyone were on board the circular boat and had their photos taken, the tour begins. To propel the non-streamlined “boat”, the boatman has to move the paddle back and forth through the water in an arcing motion at the “front”.

The proper technique to propel the boat is to move the paddle back and forth through the water in an arcing motion at the “front”.

The first part of the tour is quite serene and slow along the calm waterways between the coconut groves. Actually the palm growing in this area is not the usual coconut palm but some kind of sea coconut.

Row, row, row your boat, Gently down the stream.

If you see a crocodile, don’t forget to scream.

I actually enjoyed this part of the ride as it was very photogenic. 

We soon entered an area with open water (like a lake) where many boats from other operators had gathered. The vibes changed instantly into a party atmosphere with loud Korean music, singing and boat spinning performances.

Boat man spinning the round boat at high speed.

 

The boat spinning performance to the tune of Gangnam Style was actually quite entertaining and thrilling to watch.

Although not mandatory, we offered tips to the boat spinning performer and also to the singer on another boat belting out Korean pop songs which was much appreciated.

Then it started to rain a little.

Our boatman offered us an umbrella. Then the rain got heavier. I did not feel comfortable holding an umbrella in the middle of a lake in a thunderstorm.

 

We told the boatman to cut short the tour and head back to base. Our boatman paddled furiously in the heavy rain. Despite its shape, the thúng chai can move quite fast under the control of a skilled boatman.

By now, our boatman was all drenched in rain and sweat. We were also slightly wet, especially our feet which was in inches of water from the downpour. He paused a few times to rest his weary arms as going back to base was against the flow of the water.

Our boatman all drenched and rowing as fast as he could in the heavy downpour.

We made it back safely. For his hard work I gave our boatman a tip that was almost the cost of the tour.

Group photo at the end. The rain stopped once we were back.

Overall, I enjoyed our little adventure on a coconut boat despite the scam attempt and sudden rain.

As we leave the village, we saw large groups of visitors streaming in from tour buses that had just arrived. The man asking for entrance fee to the village was nowhere to be seen.

But I saw a familiar face. I saw our boatman at the car park, touting for more business so he could earn some honest money to feed his family. The boatman saw us and came over to say goodbye with a smile on his face. I am glad that we had make someone happy for the day.

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Afternoon and Evening in Hoi An Ancient Town

6 March 2025

     

After a free and easy morning at the New World Hoiana Hotel and a thrilling adventure on a coconut boat tour, we spent the rest of the day exploring Hoi An Ancient Town.

The first thing we did in town was to have lunch. During my previous trip to Hoi An, we had enjoyed some of the best Vietnamese cuisine in the old town. See my previous post on “What and where to eat while in Hoi An”.

Banh Mi lunch at Madam Kanh

Definitely a “must eat” in Hoi An is the banh mi. There are a couple of excellent banh mi restaurants. Our group chose to go to Madam Khanh, also known as the Banh Mi Queen. My wife and I had eaten Madam Khanh’s banh mi back in 2017 and we loved them. Hence it was good to be back. 

 

The business seems to be booming and we had to queue to get a table for our party of 8.

While waiting for our seats, I had to opportunity to witness the staff making the banh mi at the entrance. Back in 2017, our banh mi were made to order by the madam herself.

With business booming, the banh mi preparation process ran like clockwork. The baguettes were toasted in ovens, pre-sliced and filled with basic ingredients first. Depending on the order, other ingredients were then added. This really speed up the preparation process and ensure faster turnovers.

The staff were busy preparing the food behind the long food stand, laden with ingredients.

Pre-toasted and pre-filled baguettes waiting to be customised to order.

After a short wait, we were shown our seats. The staff was apologetic that they had to split us into two groups. 4 persons on the ground floor and the other 4 persons on the second floor. We don’t mind that since the small restaurant was quite crowded.

6 types of banh mi on the menu.

The menu had grown to be more extensive compared to last time we were here in 2017 where there were only three choices (mixed, vegetarian and chicken) in the food menu.

We ate the Mixed Banh Mi and BBQ Pork (Char Siew) Banh Mi. Each banh mi now costs 40,000 VND each. Double of what it was 9 years ago but still less than a quarter of what it may have cost back home. 

Mixed Banh Mi and BBQ Pork Banh Mi. Sliced in halves for easy sharing. 

Home made chilli on table to add the spiciness to our liking. The chilli paste is potent!

The thing I enjoyed most about the banh mi in Vietnam, especially Madam Khanh’s, is the excellent baguette. The baguette we had was warm, flavourful with a crispy outer crust and soft but chewy inside.

The Mixed Banh Mi is more savoury while BBQ Pork Banh Mi is sweeter and had more pate. They are both value for money, delicious food, hence the justifiable queue. 

 

The interior of the shop did not change much from the last time. 

My only complain was the drinks that were served. The salt coffee for 50,000 VND is overpriced and disappointing. It had too much crushed ice and little coffee. It would be better to have soft drink (20,000 VND) or a local beer.

Overall, the lunch experience in this restaurant was good, despite the crowd and overpriced coffee. The service staff are friendly and customer focused. After our meal, we make our payment to the Madam. The elderly lady sat at entrance with a shoe box sized cardboard box to store her cash collection.

Xi Ma – black sesame sweet pudding

After lunch, I led the group to search for the Xi Ma roadside stall that sells the delicious black sesame sweet pudding. This was one of the street foods we tried in Hoi An back in 2017 which I enjoyed and the stall was still there! Google Map location here.

Spotted this cute car on the way to the Xi Ma stall.

I was glad the stall was still in the original location, although the seller seems to have changed.

One of the few street foods I dare to try in Vietnam.

Xi Ma is a dessert made with ground black sesame seeds, sugar and local well water. For me, I think the dessert was not as good as previously as it was slightly too bitter. Probably, due to over roasting of the sesame seeds. Nevertheless, it was still delicious.

Each bowl is 10,000 VND. One of the guys in my group ate 3 bowls.

A walk through the old town

After our dessert, we took a walk to the riverside through the old town. We passed Madam Khanh again. There was no queue outside after the peak lunch hour.

Madam Khanh Restaurant 

Hoi An Ancient Town had not changed very much since the last time I was here except that it had become more crowded and there are more Korean tourists than before.

One of the many tailor shops in Hoi An Ancient Town.

It was fun to walk across town through the narrow alleyway instead of the crowded main streets. Occasionally, we would encounter a motorbike or a bicycle squeezing through.

We eventually ended up on Cafe Street or Trần Phú Street. The street is dotted with traditional houses and many cafes. Popular cafes includes Faifo Coffee (famous for its rooftop view), Mot Hoi An (herbal tea), and Fika Cafe (salt coffee).

Cafe street in the old town.

We decided to join the long queue outside Mot Hoi An.

Herbal drink at MOT Hoi An.

We joined the queue at MOT to buy the refreshing, aromatic herbal drink designed to detoxify and cool the body.

The tray showcase the ingredients that went into the drink. Key components include lemongrass, ginger, lime, licorice, cinnamon, jasmine, chrysanthemum,  and green tea, typically sweetened with rock sugar or honey.

MOT’s herbal drink served with a lotus petal, fresh herb leaf and a long, thin straw made from hollow-out bamboo stem.

The drink, with plenty of crushed ice, was refreshing and worth the queue. The only problem was that no litter bins were provided at the store. We had to spend time to find a suitable place to throw the used paper cups.

Kwiatkowsky Square with monument dedicated to Polish architect Kazimierz Kwiatkowsky who lived in Viet Nam for 16 years and helped popularise the ancient town of Hoi An.

Typical streetscape in Hoi An.

Mustard-yellow coloured buildings are a characteristic of the buildings in Hoi An Ancient Town.

Street vendors can be seen all over Hoi An. Some even invite tourists to take photos with them for a small fee.

Japanese Covered Bridge

Walking down Trần Phú Street, we arrived at the Japanese Covered Bridge. The Japanese Covered Bridge is a unique and beloved symbol of Hoi An that was built by the Japanese traders in early 17th century. The bridge was constructed with a roof so that it could be used as a shelter from both rain and sun. 

The Japanese Covered Bridge is a must-visit landmark in Hoi An Ancient Town. It is depicted on the 20,000 VND note.

Hoi An Ancient Town has many well-preserved buildings that reflects both indigenous and foreign cultures, especially Chinese, Japanese and later European. In my previous visit, my wife and I spent time to explore the interior of some of these interesting historical buildings. You can read about the best places to visit while exploring Hoi An’s UNESCO World Heritage old town here.

Hoi An Riverside

The Hoai River that flows through Hoi An Ancient Town is a major focal point for visitors. It is a tributary of the Thu Bon River flowing through Hoi An.

In the old days, merchant ships once sailed up and down this river. Nowadays, boats carry tourists for sightseeing and joyrides especially in the late evening and at night when the weather is cooler. 

I enjoyed loitering around the riverside, watching the boats and people that goes by.

We went to chill at a cafe by the river before our next activity which was a foot massage.

Coffee at 11 Ca Phe

Foot Massage at My Heaven Spa

The spa in Hoi An is quite affordable and having a massage is a good activity to do at the end of the day. We chose to do foot massage at My Heaven Spa which was recommended by my travelling companions.

We were given a small discount by the owner since he recognised my friends from their previous visits.

Waiting for our masseurs to bring our foot bath.

Washing the feet prior to the foot massage. 

The masseur I had did a good job, applying the right amount of pressure to my sensitive feet.

Hoi An Riverside at Night

By the time we finished our foot massage, the sky had turned dark. The ancient town and riverside area were more beautiful at night when the lanterns are lit. 

A popular activity for couples and families is a boat ride on the Hoai River in the evening.

The tourists were out in force. So were the vendors. Many were offering boat rides and selling candle-lit, paper lotus flowers to release onto the river in return for good fortune and peace.

Candle-lit, paper lotus flowers sold at Hoi An Riverside.

I think it is not a good idea to buy and release the floating paper lanterns as it pollutes the waterway.

Colourful and brightly lit motorised boats.

The town itself is also beautifully lit at night. Here are some photos:

Dinner at Met Vietnamese Restaurant

We chose to have local cuisine at the MẸT Vietnamese Restaurant & Vegetarian Food in Hoi An. This restaurant, located by the side of the river, is a highly-rated dining spot known for its cozy atmosphere, scenic river views, and extensive menu of traditional Vietnamese dishes.

Entrance of the Met Vietnamese Restaurant.

One of the dishes we ordered was the Cao Lau, a noodle that can only be made in Hoi An.

Why?

Authentic Cao Lau is prepared only with water drawn from ancient Cham wells hidden around Hoi An. Some even claim that the water used to prepare the noodle’s dough must be drawn from the town’s Ba Le well, famed for its purity. This resulted in a noodle that is thick and chewy and slightly yellowish, off white in colour.

Cao Lau noodle at the Met Restaurant in Hoi An.

The texture of the noodles I had was on point, almost like a Japanese Udon. For me, the best element of this dish was the crispy pork rind on top. It goes well with the sliced pork and tasty sauce in the noodle.

Loved the flavourful crispy pork rind on top of the chewy Cao Lau noodles.

Besides the Cao Lau, we also tried the Hanoi Grilled Fish or Chả cá Hà Nội. This is special grilled fish is marinated with turmeric and served on a bed of sweet, sliced onions. It also came with a tray of fresh herbs, roasted peanuts, vermicelli, pineapples and rice paper. We are to place the ingredients onto the rice paper, rolled them together and then dipped into the spicy sauce before eating.

  Fish with spring onions, onions and chilli.

Another value for money local beer that we tried.

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