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Free and Easy at Jeeva Klui Resort in Senggigi, Lombok

1 June 2024

After two hectic days of exploring Lombok’s waterfalls and islands, we had a day to chill out at the Jeeva Klui Resort.

We started the day with breakfast, served in the resort’s restaurant named The Wareong. The restaurant is located on the oceanfront verandah overlooking the swimming pool, the beach, and the ocean beyond. Guests could also sit under the Banyan tree on the beachfront deck as an option but we preferred to eat in the restaurant.

View from our dining tables in the resort’s restaurant named The Wareong.

On the resort island of Bali and Lombok, wareong or warung refers to a small traditional restaurant that sells local food, as well as Asian or Western food. The Wareong in Jeeva Klui serves ala carte buffet breakfast that includes Western, Indonesian and Asian dishes. Over the 4 days of our stay in Jeeva Klui, we practically tried every item in the menu.

While the Western dishes like Egg Benedict, Pancakes, Egg Omelette were nice, we particularly enjoyed the local Mee Rebus, which tasted more like Mee Soto Ayam than the Mee Rebus commonly served in Singapore.

Jeeva Klui’s Mee Rebus – chicken noodle soup with vegetables, poached egg and fried shallots. Served with optional kichap manis (sweetened aromatic soy sauce, originating in Indonesia)

The local Lombok coffee is also worth a mention. The coffee is made from robusta beans grown on the volcanic soil found on the slopes of Mount Rinjani and then roasted with rice. It is served unfiltered in a tall cup. The trick is to let the sediments settled a little before drinking the sooty coffee.

Lombok coffee – unique tasting thick dark sooty coffee.

After breakfast, one couple went to burn calories in the resort’s gym while the rest of us went for a stroll on the beach.

We could hear the roar of the surf breaking on the reef located a hundred meters from the shore. The sand on the beach is slightly dark, mostly due to sediments washed into the sea from Lombok’s black lava rock.

The black sand beach next to Jeeva Klui Resort.

Surf breaking on the reef offshore.

Although the beach is a public beach, we had the beach almost to ourselves.

There are numerous warungs located in a large coconut patch on the side of the resort.  Since this is a weekend, some local families could be seen picnicking in this area.

Some warungs are starting their charcoal stoves, getting ready to serve lunches that includes BBQ seafood, noodles etc.

Stall displaying a large variety of Indonesia 3-in-1 coffee mixes.

Having some fun around a coconut tree.

On our way back to the resort, we joined some locals relaxing by the sea.

Swinging on the beach.

This cafe made use of stray slippers to decorate the entrance.

Words of wisdom.

A local girl enjoying the breeze by the sea.

After the relaxing stroll on the beach, we went for a dip in the resort’s infinity edged pool. The pool is the pool is nearly 25 meters in length and is good for those who want to swim some laps. However, it is about 1.5 m deep throughout. With no shallow area, the pool is not so suitable for kids to play. There is actually another pool by the resort’s gym but that pool that is “adult-only”.

Our friends from the gym came and joined us in the pool. Instead of swimming, they chilled on the lounge chairs and help take photos of us.

After the morning walk and swim, we went for a 2-hours massage at Orchid Day Spa & Beauty Salon, located in downtown Senggigi. This was the same spa we went to on Day 1.

Brochure from Orchid Day Spa and Beauty Salon.

Getting to and from the spa from the hotel was by Bluebird taxis. These are the cheapest and most reliable taxis across Lombok. The hotel reception helped us to call for 2 taxis for our group of 8 persons.  The fare was by meter and cost less than 35 IDR per taxi.

I was actually impressed by the well groomed taxi drivers dressed in smart Bluebird uniform. They are enterprising too. They told us to call them after we finished our massage so they could drive us back to the resort.

After eating out in the last 3 nights, we had a chance to try the dinner served at The Wareong on our last evening at Jeeva Klui Resort. We had made prior reservation for our group of 8, so we were all seated together in a long table.

Dinner at The Wareong in Jeeva Klui Resort.

We were served by a very friendly waiter named Komang who explained and recommended the Indonesian dishes for us.

Komang told us he originated from Bali and in Bali, his name meant 3rd child. This was where all of us learnt about the interesting naming system in Bali.

In general, Balinese people name their children depending on the order they are born, and the names are the same for both males and females. The firstborn child is named Wayan, Putu or Gede, the second is named Made or Kadek, the third child goes by Nyoman or Komang, and the fourth is named Ketut. If a family has more than four children, the cycle repeats itself.

May wife and I ordered the Ayam Sauce Taliwang (Lombok’s Grilled Chicken), Gulai Bebek (Indonesian Duck Curry), Kakap Sambal Matah (Fried Fish) and the Prawn Bisque. Since all the main dishes came with rice, Komang offered to inform the kitchen to replace some of our rice with vegetables since we do not need so much rice. The food was so good that we regretted a little that we only ate dinner here once.

Ayam Sauce Taliwang – Grilled marinated chicken, sauteed vegetables and water spinach salad. 

Gulai Bebek  – Duck Curry dish.

Kakap Sambal Matah – Fried baby fish, sauteed garlic vegetable and sambal matah.

  Prawn bisque with minute pan seared tiger prawns and herbed cream. This really tasted like Lobster Bisque, if not even better.

We were fortunate that there was a live music performance on this night at The Wareong. According to Komang, live band performance only happens on Saturdays.

The band was made up of two guys on guitars (one on acoustic and one on electric). They belted out excellent music from 7 PM till almost midnight, non-stop. They accepted requests from diners and one of my friends went almost berserk with request after request of her favourite songs. You know the electric guitarist is good when he can perform a guitar solo of Hotel California that sounded like the real thing. Even the restaurant and kitchen staff were swaying to the music as they do their chores.

June 1 was also the birthday of one guy in our group. The staff at the restaurant made him a birthday cake to celebrate his birthday.

Our birthday boy took a bite of the cake before we could snap a photo.

Delicious dinner with excellent live music at The Wareong was a great way to mark our stay at the Jeeva Klui Resort.

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Taiwan 2024 Trip Overview - 7 days in Central and Southern Taiwan exploring Alishan, Tainan and Kaohsiung

In this spring trip to Taiwan from 27 March to 2 April 2024 to Taiwan, we spent three days exploring the scenic areas around Alishan in central Taiwan and then three days to explore Kaohsiung and Tainan, located in the southern part of the island.

The Alishan (阿里山) National Forest Recreation Area in Chiayi County, Central Taiwan is renowned for its misty forests, sunrises over a sea of clouds, views of mountain ranges, the historic Alishan Forest Railway, and cherry blossoms viewing in spring. The area around Alishan, especially around the town of Shizhuo (石棹), is also known for the tea plantations. This is where Taiwan’s most famous tea is grown, plus hiking through tea plantations, bamboo and cedar forests.

View of the tea plantations around Shizhuo.

It was after booking the flights and planning the itinerary to Alishan that I realised our time in Taiwan coincided with the cherry blossoms season in Alishan. This is both good news and bad news. Good news as in we could potentially experience the flower season in Alishan. Bad news as in there would be higher than usual visitors numbers and getting to Alishan via public transport could be a nightmare.

Where we stayed

Alishan is known for the 5 scenic wonders – sunrise, sea of clouds, railway, forest and sunset.

To view the famous sunrise at the peak of Alishan, one would have to stay at a hotel within the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, get up at around 4 AM to take a train to the sunrise observation deck. Hotels in the park are limited and are way overpriced.

We decided to give this sunrise experience a miss and stayed at Siang Ting B&B (頂石桌湘庭民宿) located in Shizhuo instead. Shizhuo is a tea growing area located along the Alishan Highway 18, the main highway leading to Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. Every public bus going to Alishan would pass by Shizhuo.

Siang Ting B&B is a tea farm that offers homestay. We stayed three nights in this fantastic B&B with wonderful hosts.

On the mountainside above Shizhuo, there are some incredible hikes through tea farms and bamboo forests. So for us who likes hiking and nature, Shizhuo is an ideal place.

On the Sunset Trail near our B&B.

Gorgeous sunsets and sunrises with seas of clouds and fresh cool air could be enjoyed (weather permitting) from observation points near Shizhuo as well.

Shizhuo is a short distance away from Fenqihu, a historic railway village that should be included in any Alishan itinerary.

Trip report: Our stay at the Siang Ting B&B (頂石桌湘庭民宿), in Shizhuo.

My plan was to visit both Tainan and Kaohsiung after 3 days in the Alishan area. To minimise hotel transfer, we stayed all 3 nights in Kaohsiung and make a day trip to Tainan from Kaohsiung. Tainan is less than an hour by local trains from Kaohsiung.

My hotel in Kaohsiung City was the H2O Hotel. We really enjoyed our stay in the excellent, value for money hotel located close to the ZuoYing HSR Station in Kaohsiung.

H2O Hotel in Kaohsiung.

Trip report: Our stay at the H2O Hotel in Kaohsiung. 

 

The following is our itinerary for this trip.

 

Day 1 (27 March 2024) – Travel to Shizhuo and explore Fenqihu

               

Fenqihu Railway Station.

We spent our first day back in Taiwan exploring the small village of Fenchihu or Fenqihu (奮起湖) that was once a refuel middle stop for the old Alishan forest trains. The town is best known for 3 things – a mountainous town surrounded by bamboo and cedar forest, the old shopping street and the historic Alishan forest railway.

To get to Fenqihu, we must first get to Chiayi. We travelled by MRT from the airport to the Taoyuan HSR Station (20 minutes), took an 80 minutes ride on the Taiwan High Speed Rail to Chiayi and then took a pre-booked taxi to Fenqihu.

En-route, we made a short stop at the Siang Ting B&B, located amongst the tea plantations in Shizhuo. This is to drop off our luggage as it was too early for check in.

We arrived at Fenqihu slightly before 11 AM. Just in time to eat Fenqihu lunchbox from the original famous spot, Fenqihu Hotel before the crowds from the Forest Railway train arrives.

Trip report: From Taoyuan International Airport to Fenqihu (Alishan)

We spent the day exploring the old shopping street of Fenqihu, the historic Alishan forest railway and the hiking trails around the town.

Shopping street in Fenqihu.

Things to eat/buy at the Old Street include the Aiyu jelly drink, wasabi stuff, donuts.  We took pictures of the famous Alishan Forest Railway trains at the train station.  There is also a small train museum but it was closed during our visit.    

We took the last bus scheduled at 5.00 PM from Fenqihu to Shizhuo. Our B&B in Shizhuo only provided breakfast. We had dinner in the 石桌佳味熱炒 restaurant at Shizhuo. Most of the restaurants in Shizhuo close at 7 PM.

Trip report: Exploring Fenqihu (奮起湖) and evening in Shizhuo (石棹)

 

Day 2 (28 March 2024) – Day trip to Alishan from Shizhuo

Breakfast with views of the mountains and tea farms below.

The plan for the day after breakfast was to do a day trip to the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area – the “Alishan” that draws the tourists.

Our hosts had the entire bus schedule from Shizhuo to Alishan and gave us a ride to the bus stop in Shizhuo. From there, we took a 45 minutes bus ride to Alishan.

We spent most of the day exploring Alishan. Alishan was like what we expected – interesting forests with giant trees, cherry blossoms (not at their best), historic railways and crowds.

Cherry blossoms at Alishan.

The weather was unusually warm this year, so we missed the peak of the cherry blossoms which came a few weeks earlier than usual. 

Alishan Forest Railway.

Giant trees in the forest of Alishan.

We took the 3 PM bus back to Shizhuo and had an early dinner. Following dinner, we took a short walk to see the sunset at the Dingshizhuo Observation Deck which is located a short distance from our B&B.

Unfortunately, clouds rolled in on the western horizon as the sun went down. So, we did not get to see a nice sunset.

From there, we took a short walk back to our B&B.

Trip report:  Day trip to the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area from Shizhuo by bus and evening in Shizhuo.

 

Day 3 (29 March 2024) – Hiking at the Shizhuo Trails System

It was another beautiful morning at Siang Ting B&B, just like Day 2.

Typical breakfast at Siang Ting B&B.

The plan for the day was to explore the hiking trails at Shizhuo. This is one of the reasons why we chose to stay at Shizhuo.

There are 5 incredible hikes in the hilly area near to our B&B:

  • Mist Trail 霧之道 (880 meters)
  • Tea Trail 茶之道 (1,030 meters)
  • Cloud Trail 雲之道 (670 meters)
  • Sunset Trail 霞之道 (530 meters)
  • Sakura Trail 櫻之道 (990 meters).

The trails are all unique in their own way. Some are built next to the tea plantations, some through cedar forest and some are surrounded by lush bamboo forests.

Views of tea farms with the mountains beyond are a common sight.

In the midst of bamboo forest along the Tea Trail.

One of the best views on this day. At the top of the Sunset Trail.

 

We managed to cover all the above trails at a leisurely pace. During the hike, we had an awesome lunch at the 豊合豐禾 景觀餐廳 restaurant, located near the top of the Sunset Trail.

We ended the day with a delicious hotpot dinner at a neighbouring B&B.

     
Trip report: Hiking the Shizhuo Trails System (石棹步道群)

Day 4 (30 March 2024) – Travel from Shizhuo to Kaohsiung. Explore Lotus Pond Scenic Area and evening at Ruifeng Night Market

This is the day where we would travel from Shizhuo to Kaohsiung. I had booked a taxi to take us from Shizhuo to the Chiayi HSR Station.

This was also our lucky day. We managed to see the sea of clouds from our B&B on our final morning in Shizhuo. This is one of the highlight of a visit to the Alishan area.

  View of the sea of clouds from our bedroom.

We had time after breakfast to take a morning walk around our B&B one last time before checkout.   

One last look at the gorgeous Shizhuo scenery.

The taxi came promptly at 9.30 AM and we arrived at the HSR Station in 70 minutes.

I was contemplating if we should try the popular HSR Bento lunch set but decided otherwise. There would be better lunch options at Kaohsiung.

Stall selling the popular HSR Bento lunch sets at the Chiayi HSR Station.

We had ample time to collect our train tickets and took the 30 minutes ride into Kaohsiung’s Zuoying HSR Station as planned. We arrived at Kaohsiung slightly after noon. The representative from the H2O Hotel was on the HSR train platform to meet us and drove us to the H2O hotel in style.

As our room was not ready, we left our luggage with the hotel and took a short walk to the Hanshin Arena for lunch.

Trip report: Our Travel from Shizhuo to Kaohsiung and lunch at the Hanshin Arena.

After lunch, we took a taxi to the Lotus Pond Scenic Area.  

We had an afternoon for sightseeing at the Lotus Pond scenic area. Actually afternoon is the best time to visit, getting there at around 3 PM. The sun will start to go down making it a bit cooler and we plan to see the sunset over the lake. At night the temples are illuminated, creating multi-coloured reflections in the water.

Trip report: Exploring the scenic Lotus Pond (蓮池潭) in the Zuoying district, Kaohsiung.

After visiting Lotus Pond, we took a taxi to one of Kaohsiung’s very popular night markets, the Ruifeng Night Market for dinner. There are several night markets in Kaohsiung, this was the closest and it is also within walking distance to our hotel. Ruifeng Night Market’s opening hours are from 6:00 pm to midnight and it is closed on Monday and Wednesday! 

Trip report: Ruifeng Night Market (瑞豐夜市) in Kaohsiung.

Day 5 (1 April 2024) - Day trip to Tainan

Instead of staying a day in Tainan, we decided to make a day trip to Tainan from Kaohsiung.

Our plan for the morning was to explore the Anping area with sights such as the Anping Tianhou Temple, Anping Old Fort and Anping Tree House.   

Anping Tree House – The "treehouse" name refers to the living roots and branches of a large banyan tree that covers the old warehouse.

Anping Old Street is a good place for some shopping and lunch.  

In the afternoon, there are some interesting places to see at West Central District such as the Tainan Confucius Temple, Hayashi Dept Store, Snail Alley, Guan Yu temple, Grand Mazu temple, Chikan Tower and Shennong Street.

Shennong Street in Tainan.

The original plan was to have dinner at Shennong Street but there was no restaurants to our liking. So we went back to have dinner at Kaohsiung, followed by drinks at the rooftop bar of our hotel.

Trip report: Day Trip to Tainan from Kaohsiung.

   

Day 6 ( 2 April 2024) – explore Pier 2 Art Center and Cijin island in Kaohsiung

        

My original plan was to take the ferry to Cijin Island in the morning. We could rent bikes to explore sights on island. After a seafood lunch at the island, we could take the ferry back to mainland and explore the nearby Pier 2 Art Center in the afternoon.

We could then spend the evening exploring the Glory Pier and Love River Area. 

On the way back to our hotel, we could stop by Formosa MRT Station to see the Dome of Light and visit the Liuhe Night Market from Formosa Station. Time permitting, we could even do a quick visit to Sanfeng Temple to snap some photos of the lights.

How things changed when we were actually in Kaohsiung.

A colourful mural of the Kaohsiung Station at Pier 2 Art Center.

In the morning as we were enjoying our breakfast at the H2O Hotel, we decided to go to Pier 2 Art Center in the morning, followed by Cijin Island in the evening when it would be cooler and we get to see the sunset at the Cijin Beach.

Sunset at Cijin Island.

On hindsight, I think the original plan may be better although we did enjoy our visits to the Pier 2 Art Center and Cijin Island.

Trip report: Kaohsiung Pier 2 Art Center.

Trip report: Cijin (旗津 ) Island in Kaohsiung.

        

Day 7 ( 3 April 2024) – free and easy in Kaohsiung and travel back to Taoyuan Airport

Our flight home was scheduled at 9.45 PM, which means we had to be at the Taoyuan Airport by 7:45 PM. Travel to Taoyuan airport by High Speed Rail (HSR) from Kaohsiung, followed by a MRT ride from the Taoyuan HSR Station to the airport would take about 3 hours.

We had some free and easy time in the morning to see more of Kaohsiung. My original plan was to go see the street art at WAIIRIORS but once again, the plan was changed on the fly.

We decided to spend some time to explore the shopping areas in Kaohsiung and buy some local products instead.

One of our must try for this trip is the famous Taiwan Railway Bento sets.

Taiwan Railway Bento set.

Our 2-hour ride on the HSR from Kaohsiung to Taoyuan gave us the perfect opportunity to try them.

Trip report: Free and easy in Kaohsiung and trying the Taiwan Railway bento set.

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From Taoyuan International Airport to Fenqihu (Alishan)

27 March 2024

One of the key attractions we wanted to visit in this trip is the Alishan National Scenic Area, frequently known as Alishan (阿里山). A trip to Alishan is not complete without a visit to Fenqihu (奮起湖) as well. Fenqihu is small settlement that was once a refuel middle stop for the old Alishan forest trains.  The place that we are visiting on our first day back in Taiwan is Fenqihu.

We took a red-eye flight from Singapore to Taiwan’s Taoyuan International Airport arriving as scheduled at dawn. We cleared immigration and picked up our luggage pretty fast as there were not many flights arriving at this time of day.

From Taoyuan Airport to Chiayi

The fastest transportation in the western part of Taiwan is none other than the Taiwan High Speed Rail (HSR). In our previous trips to Taiwan, we had to take a bus from the airport to the Taoyuan HSR station. This time, we could use the MRT.

Note:   Taoyuan MRT (commonly known as Airport MRT) and the Taipei Metro (MRT) runs on the same tracks. The Airport MRT is an express service and is slighter faster. Fares for Airport MRT express or normal MRT commuter train are the same. Easy cards can be used. The appearance of express train is purple and that of commuter train is blue for easy identification. The express trains will depart from Taoyuan Airport every 15 minutes from 05:55, with the last train departing at 22:58.

We followed the signs in the arrival hall and took about a 10 minutes walk to the MRT Station (A12) located at Terminal 1.  Taoyuan Airport has 2 terminals. There is also a MRT Station (A13) serving passengers arriving at Terminal 2.

We topped up our Easycard (IC card used in Taiwan) at the MRT Station before boarding the MRT train. I could not remember which train we took (blue or purple). The journey by MRT to the HSR Station (A18) took about 20 minutes.            

There was a Go2Taiwan Buy One, Get One Free promotion on High-Speed Rail tickets on Klook for International Visitors. In addition, Klook offers a 20% discount! The only downside is that we had to pre-book our tickets and things will get messy if our flight is delayed and we are not in time to collect our HSR tickets (at least 30 minutes before departure time).  However, this was too good a deal to miss, so I had to carefully plan and allocate enough risk buffer when booking our ride to Chiayi.

Things went as planned and we had ample time to collect our pre-booked tickets from the ticket office at the Taoyuan HSR Station and catch the 7.34 AM train to Chia Yi.

Journey to Chiayi would take about 80 minutes by High Speed Rail.

We even had time to buy some drinks, snacks and tea eggs for a light breakfast from the 7-11 store inside the station before boarding.

7-eleven store inside the Taoyuan HSR Station. We took the MRT from the airport to this station. Approximately 20 minutes journey.

Delicious tea soaked egg that is sold in almost all 7-eleven store.

Taiwan’s High Speed Rail’s bullet train. It could reach speeds of 220 km/hr.

From Chiayi to Fenqihu

The traditional way to get to Fenqihu is by the popular Forest Railway from Chiayi Train Station that runs only once a day (twice on weekends). The journey on the narrow gauge historic train takes about 2 hours and is often fully booked out. This option is not practical for us since we are arriving from the airport to the HSR Station and it will take another 30 minutes to get to the TRA Station by shuttle bus or taxi.

A slightly faster way is by taking one of infrequent public buses from the TRA or HSR train stations in Chiayi.

The fastest way is by car. Since we did not rent a car, we took the next best option which was to charter a taxi using Tripool that took us from the Chiayi High Speed Rail (HSR) Station to Fenqihu. I decided to splurge a little and take the taxi instead of the infrequent public bus because there is a great risk that we may not be able to get a seat on the bus due to the peak Cherry Blossom season in Alishan. 

Our pre-booked taxi, a white Toyota SUV, was waiting for us as planned when we took the exit 3 at the HSR Station.

Note: There are actually quite a few taxi drivers offering rides to Alishan at the train station. So, pre-booking a taxi may not be necessary. I think the fares are quite competitive.

The journey by taxi was definitely faster and more comfortable compared to the public bus. So, money well spent!

En-route, we made a short stop at the Siang Ting B&B, located amongst the tea plantations in Shizhuo. This is to drop off our luggage as it was too early for check in.

We arrived at Fenqihu slightly before 11 AM. Just in time to eat Fenqihu lunchbox from the original famous spot, Fenqihu Hotel before the crowds from the Forest Railway train arrives.
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