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Exploring Akan Mashu National Park (Part 1) – Kaminokoike, Marufu Coffee, Iozan (Sulphur Mountain) and lunch at Kawayu Onsen

27 August 2023

Our first stop in the Akan Mashu National Park was Kaminokoike or "God's Child Pond." It is a small pond located in a forest northeast of Lake Mashu.

Kami-no-koike

Access is by a narrow unpaved road in the right side (west) of highway 1115 and it is a good place to visit after Sakura Falls. My son drove slowly and carefully to avoid potholes on this narrow forest road while I scanned the undergrowth of the forest for ezo deer, red foxes or even brown bears. None was seen.

After travelling about 2 km, we came to large clearing in the forest which is the car park (location in Google Map). Signboards at the far side of the clearing mark the start of the forest trail leading to the pond.

The pond got its name from stories that it is fed by underground waters from Lake Mashu, which is known as Kamuito (Lake of the Gods) by the indigenous Ainu people. Thinking that this beautiful pond must be a gift from the gods, the people who inhabited these lands in the ancient times came to call it "God's Child Pond."

Kaminokoike is a small pond 5 meters deep and 220 meters in circumference. Although small, the water is extremely clear and blue! Depending on the weather, the surface of the water looks emerald blue, which is very mysterious.

Kaminokoike, with its blue colour and crystal clear water.

Viewing the pond from the nature trail.

There is a nature trail with raised wooden boardwalk that passes over a stream with crystal clear water and then encircles the small natural pond surrounded by forest. We took a slow walk on this trail, mindful of the potential presence of brown bears. There were very few people visiting this blue pond, compared to the blue pond of Biei that we visited earlier in our road trip.

Signage explaining how the pond got its name, plus other interesting information.

About 12,000 tons of the underground water has been gushing into Kaminokoike Pond every day. The water stays at low 8 ℃ throughout the year (even in winter) which keeps the submerged trees from rotting in the blue water.

Large and small fish that looked like trout enjoying their peaceful existence in the blue pond.

Fishes swim amongst the petrified-looking debris and we could see the current coming out from an underwater vent in the middle of the pond.

The pond discharges its water down a small stream next to the car park and I could spot more fishes that looked like salmon on this stream. 

 

What fish is this? Salmon or trout?

I enjoyed this visit to Kaminokoike as the pond was so natural, beautiful and unique in its own way. The walk in the woods with views of the blue pond was so peaceful and relaxing.  An amazing creation by Mother Nature. No wonder the Ainu people named it the “God’s Child Pond”.

Marufu Coffee Roastery

After visiting Kaminokoike, we went to search for a place for coffee and also toilets!

Thanks to Google Map, we found a excellent place called Marufu Coffee Roastery (location in Google Map) near the small town of Midori. We trusted the directions given by Google Map that led us through desolated farms roads to a wooden hut that is almost in the middle of nowhere.

Exterior of Marufu Coffee Roastery.

Unpaved road just outside of Marufu Coffee Roastery.

Upon entry, we were warmly greeted by the friendly owner who could speak a little English. This place mainly sells coffee beans, but would also serve wanderers who ventured in cups of their freshly roasted coffee.

Jars of various types of coffee beans at the counter by the entrance.

The owner seated us in a cosy room with bookshelves, knick knacks on the floor and a single small round table with some chairs.

He then brought a basket with small jars of coffee beans and proceeded to explain the various beans on their menu. The owner is a certified Q Arabica Grader and he seems eager to share his knowledge.

This coffee roastery specialises in exotic beans,  colour coded by taste (dark, medium or light).

We could smell each type of coffee before ordering our cups of specialty coffee. 500 Yen for a cup of freshly roasted with any beans except the Geisha (600 yen) which is the more expensive beans.

We could smell the different coffee beans before placing our orders. We ordered the Colombia Supremo, Ethiopia Guji Uraga Natural and a Ethopia Guji Geisha.

The coffees were served in Japanese Style Siphon Coffee Maker and nice china crockery. The owner also gave us espresso cups so we could try each other's cups of coffee, which was a nice touch.

Nice crockery and ambience in this unique cafe.

Besides coffee, the cafe also serves different kinds of orange juices, milk, ice cream and sweets like tofu terrine, cheesecakes and apple cream cake.

Basque cheesecake (left) and apple cream cake (right) that goes extremely well with the coffee. Each for 350 Yen.

The friendly owner came to chat and recommend that we go see the salmon at Sakura Falls. He was slightly surprised when we told him we had seen it.

I told him I recognised the dog in his cafe which was from the HMV logo. He told us the dog’s name is Nipper and he bought this statue from a local electronics store.

Statue of Nipper, the dog in the logo of HMV (His Master Voice), the dog listening intently to the gramophone.


When he found out that we were from Singapore, he told us about his experience in Singapore and how he bought a statue of a pink dolphin from there.

A special “selfie” outside Marufu Coffee Roastery. Note the limited opening hours – 10 AM to 4 PM, Friday to Sunday only. 

Overall, we had an excellent experience at this cafe drinking aromatic specialty coffee, savouring delicious cakes and having a chat with the friendly owner. A gem of a place to rest and relax after visiting the nearby Sakura Falls and Kaminokoike.

Iozan or Sulphur Mountain

It was slightly after 11 AM when we left the cafe. The weather in the morning on this day was good but clouds were forming and rain is imminent. We decided that our next stop should be Iozan or Sulphur Mountain before the weather turn on us.

  Signboard showing the name of the mountain in Kanji which translates to “Sulphur Mountain”.

Iozan translated as "Sulfur Mountain" is an active volcano in the vicinity of Kawayu Onsen. We arrived at the Iozan parking lot, after 30 minutes drive from Marufu Coffee Roastery. This is a paid parking lot (500 yen).

Tip: Do not throw away the parking ticket as it allows for parking at the observation deck number 1 at Lake Mashu as well.

From the car park, we could already see   yellow, sulfurous vents with steam rising up into the sky. The mountain stands at 512 meters tall and was once the site for sulfur mining in the Meiji era. There are over 1,500 small and large volcanic craters all over Iozan. 

Walking on the barren landscape from the car park towards the Iozan.

Sulphur everywhere!

Iozan with the numerous yellow sulphur vents up in the mountain. 

Iozan is quite unique in that visitors are free to walk around the steaming, smoking area at its base and see the volcanic activity up close. The more dangerous area further up the mountain is cordon off.

Zoomed in photo of the yellow sulphur on the outside of one of the vents.

We could smell the sulphur and hear the roar of the steam from close proximity.

There are signs warning of boiling hot spring and steam.

Hot spring vents where we could see the boiling water bubbling on the surface.

Getting a good facial treatment from the acidic steam.

One has to use common sense and not get too close. Wind direction could change suddenly and steam could scald one’s face.  

This is a hellish and yet fun and interesting place to visit. It was the closest that I ever got to an active volcano.

  Iozan was our highlight in Akan Mashu National Park on this day. 

We ended our visit to Iozan with a short tour of the visitor center.                

Lunch at Otafuku Syokudo

It was close to 12.30 PM when we left Iozan. I had earmarked 2 restaurants that served lunch in Kawayu Onsen town

As usual, the town was deserted in mid-day. The first restaurant that we went to was closed.

Fortunately the second restaurant (Otafuku Syokudo) was opened. Otafuku Syokudo opens from 11:00 to 14:30. This restaurant was operated by an old couple and serves Ezo deer meat dishes.

  Menu at Otafuku Syokudo.

The lunch menu has the Ezo deer rice set for 1550 Yen, Shoyu(soy sauce) and Shio(salt) deer ramen for 1000 yen and miso-based vegetable Ramen for 1100 Yen.

We ordered the last available Ezo deer rice set and also 2 bowls of ramen.

Ezo deer rice set that came grilled deer meat, soba, steam rice and pickles.

The deer rice set was excellent. No wonder it was sold out fast. The meat was tender and well seasoned.

Soy sauce deer ramen.

Shio ramen with slices of deer meat and garnishing.

The deer meat ramen were delicious too.

Overall, this restaurant is a good place for lunch when visiting Kawayu Onsen. There are not many eateries in Akan Mashu National Park that are opened for lunch, so it is recommended to come early.

Kawayu Onsen

Kawayu Onsen is a little hot spring (onsen) town with many hot spring resorts and hotel.  Kawa means river. The town could boast that 100% of its hot waters come directly from the source Iozan and the river of hot water that flows through the town. There are about 20 hotels and ryokans in the town, and each use the rich hot spring water for the bath. There are also many free footbaths scattered all over the town.

There was a footbath located between Otafuku Syokudo and the place I parked my car. I stopped for a little dip in the footbath.

The highly acidic water contains sulphur.

The water was a little cloudy with white particles of sulphur in it. The temperature was lukewarm, not hot enough for me to enjoy the dip.

Pretty summer flowers on the roadside in Kawayu Onsen.

We did not stay long, as we have more sights to see in Akan Mashu National Park. In any case, we would be checking into Hotel Parkway with onsen baths later in the day.

Next Post: Exploring Akan Mashu National Park (Part 2) – Lake Mashu, Lake Kussharo, Kanon Coffee & Sweets and evening at Hotel Parkway

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Exploring Akan Mashu National Park (Part 2) – Lake Mashu, Lake Kussharo, Kanon Coffee & Sweets and evening at Hotel Parkway

27 August 2023

After taking our lunch at Kawayu Onsen, we continued our sightseeing at Akan Mashu National Park.

We planned to see Lake Mashu and also check out some of the free public onsens scattered along the shores of Lake Kussharo. Kawayu Onsen is located in the middle of both lakes, with Mashu on the east and Kussharo on the west.

We decided to see Lake Mashu first as we planned to have a dip in the onsens at Lake Kussharo later.

Lake Mashu Observation Deck No. 3

From Kawayu Onsen, we drove up Highway 52 to Observation Deck No. 3. It was quite a fun drive along the steep switchback road near the peak.

There is free parking by the side of the road at our destination. From the parking lot, we crossed the road and climbed stairs to the observation deck.

Map showing the area around Observation Deck No. 3. This is the highest observation point on the Mashu caldera.

      Path leading to the observation deck overlooking Lake Mashu.

In summer, the surface of Lake Mashu is often obscured by fog. In fact, there is usually fog covering the lake for about 100 days of the year.

A local legend says that if you can see the surface of the lake, you will have bad luck. Although it was a cloudy day with rain forecasted in the afternoon, we were able to see the lake.

Are we were considered lucky to be able to see the lake on this day?

View of Lake Mashu from the the observation deck

The lake is supposed to be one of the clearest in the world and one of the deepest in Japan but we could not really discern that as the sky was cloudy. What we could see is that the lake is surrounded by steep walls 200 metres (660 ft) high. Lake Mashu is actually a caldera of a dormant volcano. No visible stream or rivers flow into the lake and there is also no visible outlet. We knew some of the water was discharged via underground spring at Kaminokoike (“child of God” pond) that we had visited early.

We could see a small island in the middle of the lake and also Mount Mashu across the lake on the eastern shore.

Two volcanoes have grown out of the Mashu caldera. Kamuishu Island is actually a lava dome which rises from the middle of the lake. The other is Mount Mashu which forms the highest point on the eastern shore. The Ainu (local indigenous people)   name for this peak is Kamuinupuri or “mountain of the gods”.

It is very breezy at the observation deck. A nice place to relax and enjoy the panoramic views.

The lake view from the observation deck is truly panoramic. We could also see views of Iozan, Kawayu Onsen and part of Lake Kussharo from this vantage point.

View of Iozan, Kawayu Onsen and part of Lake Kussharo.

Lake Mashu Observation Deck No. 1

Further down highway 52 is Lake Mashu Observation Deck No. 1 ( Note: there is no Observation Deck No.2 – don’t ask me why).

The car park at this place is not free, but our car park ticket from the Iozan car park is valid for use here.

Observation Deck No. 1 does not offer any better views of Lake Mashu. Actually worse in my opinion.

View of Lake Mashu from Observation Deck No. 1.  

However this place has a cafe called the Lake Mashu Kamuy Terrace that serves coffee made from locally grown soybeans and soft-serve ice cream made from fresh milk. It also has rooftop deck with special angle adjustable sofas for nighttime visitors to do some star gazing.

Observation Deck No. 1 is also the starting point for a hiking trail that leads to the summit of Mount Mashu.

The weather is very changeable. As we were leaving Lake Mashu, the sky began to clear. Our next stop is Lake Kussharo, located on the west of Kawayu Onsen.

Sunayu Onsen on Lake Kussharo

We drove down Highway 52 back to Kawayu Onsen and continued on the same highway to Lake Kussharo.

Like Lake Mashu, Lake Kussharo is also a caldera lake. In fact, it is one of the largest caldera lakes in Japan, with a circumference of 57 kilometers and a maximum depth of 125 meters. Being formed from the crater of an ancient volcano, there are numerous hot springs on the shores of this lake.

Sunayu Onsen is an interesting place to visit on Lake Kussharo as the hot spring water is directly surfacing on a beach! Here, you can dig your own onsen on the sandy beach.

Signboard at Sunayu Onsen informing visitors to dig your own hot spring bath on the beach.

There is a large free car park at Sunayu Onsen. We changed into our sandals at the car park as we wanted to soak our feet in the hot spring bath on the beach.

In winter, the warm spring water on the shores of Lake Kussharo would attract many migrating swans. The only swans we saw in summer are the boats, in the shape of swans.

Families enjoying a dip and camping at Sunayu Onsen.      

The weather by now had turn sunny and very warm. It was too hot to do any digging on the sand. Fortunately there are already pre-dug footbaths on the beach with wooden benches as well!

Soaking my feet in the hot water on the beach.

We sat on a wooden bench facing Lake Kussharo and soak our feet in the warm hot spring. By now, the sky had cleared and the sun was out. It was just too hot to linger on the beach in the heat of summer. We soon seek refuge in one of the shops and got ourselves some icy cold drinks and caught sight of Kussie.
                         

Lake Kussharo has its own legend of a lake monster like Loch Ness. It is probably a marketing gimmick that did not work.

Kussie - a Japanese lake monster. Cousin of Nessie, the Loch Ness monster?

Kotan Onsen

We left Sunayu Onsen and continued our drive along the shores of Lake Kussharo to Kotan onsen.

Kotan onsen is a natural open-air hot spring bath on the shore of Lake Kussharo and are completely free to take a dip in. Despite being free, the baths are regularly cleaned and maintained by a local organization to ensure a sanitary bathing space.

I had seen pictures of Kotan Onsen on the internet and it looked quite fun to have a dip in this open air onsen with views of the lake. Kotan Onsen is supposed to be mixed gender, with a large dividing rock separating the male and female sections. There are separate changing rooms for both men and women. Being a open air public onsen, it is perfectly acceptable to wear a bathing suit into the onsen.

My plan was for my son and me to take a dip in the onsen (in our shorts) while my wife snaps photos of us.

When we arrived at Kotan Onsen, there were already some local men bathing nude in Kotan Onsen! We decided to skip our dips for obvious reasons.

Kanon Coffee & Sweets

Our next stop was a cool coffee place on our way back to Kawayu Onsen. Kanon Coffee & Sweets is a coffee and handmade sweets cafe located in the forest by Lake Kussharo. Access is by a small road off Highway 52, slightly north of Sunayu Onsen.

There is a nice garden with beautiful plants and flowers outside the cafe. Inside, the cafe is cosy and well decorated with stained glass on windows and light fixtures. We were the only customer at this time of day.

A traditional kettle hangs over a stove. I had seen this in ryokans during my hikes on the Nakasendo.

The owner speaks English and presented us with the following menu.                                

Tea sourced from famous local tea specialty shop and coffee roasted by some coffee roasting artist.

In addition to handmade desserts, this place serves lunch too.

We ordered tea for a change instead of coffee and two of the sweets. All of their sweets are handmade. Both of the sweets were excellent!                         

Earl Grey Tea served in a teapot and cups to share.

Fondant Chocolate with Ice Cream.

Spanish Cheesecake

The cafe also provided free wi-fi which we used to share photos that we had taken during our drive from Utoro to Akan Mashu National Park. Overall, this cafe is worth visiting for the drinks and delicious desserts.

The friendly cafe owner offered to take a group photo for us.

Kanon Coffee & Sweets was our last stop on this day before we check into our hotel in Kawayu Onsen.

Hotel Parkway in Kawayu Onsen.

Located between Lake Mashu and Lake Kussharo, Kawayu Onsen is a good place to stay when visiting the two lakes in the Akan Mashu National Park. It is also right next to Iozan, which is the source of the water for this hot spring town (onsen).

Kawa means river. The town could boasts that 100% of its hot waters come directly from the source Iozan and the river of hot water that flows through the town. There are about 20 hotels and ryokans in the town, and each use the rich hot spring water for the bath.

Hotel Parkway at Kawayu Onsen. Photo source: Hotel Parkway.

We booked our stay at a onsen hotel called Hotel Parkway with dinner and breakfast included.  

Upon entry, we had to remove our shoes and wear the hotel provided sandals, like most traditional Japanese inns.

Check in was fast and we are given information about the hotel’s onsen and dining facilities.

There is no lift in the 2 storey building. It was good that our Japanese style room for 3 persons is located on the ground floor. The room features traditional futon bedding laid over tatami (woven-straw) floor, a low table with seating cushions and an LCD TV. I was glad to see that there is air-conditioning in the room. Previous reviews and specification of the room in booking.com did not specify that the room came with air-conditioning. Hurrah!

Our room has a small toilet and basin but no bath or shower. We are to bath or shower in the public onsen facilities.

After check-in, we went to bath and soak in the onsens. There is an outdoor mixed-gender public hot spring bath, and indoor and outdoor public hot spring baths that are separated by gender.

Indoor public onsen for male (Photo source: Hotel Parkway). The door on the right leads to the outdoor onsen.

We were the first persons in the men’s onsen. The water temperature in the indoor onsen was very hot. After a 10 minutes soak, we could not take it anymore and went to check out the outdoor onsen.

Outdoor public onsen for male (Photo source: Hotel Parkway)

There was one person using the outdoor onsen. We did not chat due to language barrier. We sat there silently, enjoying the outdoor ambience. Only downside was that the water in the outdoor onsen was not warm enough.

A short while later, the guy left and another Japanese man came to join us.

The second person could speak a little English and we chatted. He told us he is from Matsumoto and is visiting Hokkaido for a few days. I told him I had enjoyed my trip to Matsumoto and the Kiso valley while doing the Nakasendo hike a few years ago.

He told us he had been to Singapore and enjoyed the food. He remembered Sentosa and Newton Circles hawker center. These are the typically itinerary for Japanese tourists on a guided tour to Singapore. I enjoy chatting with fellow travelers to share experiences and learnt something new.

After the bath and soak, it was time for dinner. There are yukatas provided in our room. Since my son had not stayed in a traditional Japanese inn before, we put on the yukatas for dinner (although it is OK to go for dinner in other attire). Just for fun and experience.

My son trying on the yukata.

Dinner was served at the dining pavilion Fumoto-Tei, and featured Mashu Sea Bream sashimi (they gave it a fancy name – actually tilapia fish!) that are farmed on the property.

There were options to upgrade the dinner to be fancier but we stayed with the standard option. For the price we paid, dinner was surprisingly good.

Dinner at Hotel Parkway with sashimi, salad, tofu dish, hotpot and tempura dishes.

Hotpot dish.

Tempura dish.

There is nothing much to do after dinner. Although we are not in the mood for another bath and soak in the onsen, we went to check out the mixed gender outdoor onsen. It was a short distance away from the main building. The pathway was well lit.

Separate male and female changing rooms are provided, but the main onsen pool is shared. There is a large rock slab in the middle to segregate the male and female sections. Cheeky guys could easily get a peek at the female side and vice versa.

Outdoor mixed gender public onsen (Photo source: Hotel Parkway)

Nobody was using this onsen.

We retired to our room early. I tried to get some sleep before the 1.30 AM Newcastle vs Liverpool game that I wanted to watch using an live streaming app on my mobile phone. I was worried that hotel’s spotty wi-fi is not good enough to stream live football but my worries were unfounded.

It was a tense game. After some early setbacks, my team won! 

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