The 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk

23 July 2018

The 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk is one of the best hikes in the mountains around Zermatt that promises stunning views of the snow-capped mountains and five mountain lakes, hence the name. There are opportunities to see and photograph the Matterhorn reflected on the surface of three of the lakes, depending on the weather, wind, position of clouds and, most of all, your luck.

The morning of our second day in Zermatt promised better weather compared to our first day. At least we managed to see the tip of the Matterhorn from our apartment at day break although it was slightly veiled by clouds that drifted slowly by its east and north faces.

First rays of the rising sun striking the tip of the Matterhorn.

The Matterhorn shrouded in its “bridal veil”.

I was looking forward to doing the 5-Lakes Walk. It is best to hike this trail on a clear day but we made the decision to go on this cloudy day since the weather forecast for the next few days remains “mostly cloudy” or “intermittent clouds”. The best that we could see was “partly sunny” later in the week.

The 5-Seenweg (Trail 11) trail starts from Blauherd (2,571 m ASL) and will bring hikers to the lakes of Stellisee, Grindjisee, Grünsee, Moosjisee and Leisee before ending at Sunnegga (2,288 m ASL). Each of these mountain lakes is very different in terms of shape, colour, character and size. With luck, reflection of Matterhorn could be seen in Stellisee, Grindjisee and Leisee and swimming is possible at Grünsee and Leisee. The hike is 9.3 km in distance according to the hiking trail guide and rated as “moderate” in terms of difficulty.

Funicular from Zermatt to Sunnegga.

We took the underground funicular from Zermatt to Sunnegga. At Sunnegga, we came out from the station for a quick look-around and photos before continuing on by gondola for a short ride to Blauherd.

View of the mountains from Sunnegga.

Para-glider above a mountain restaurant in Sunnegga.

Plenty of wild alpine flowers in summer.

A wooden cross at Sunnegga, with the mountains and cloud- covered Matterhorn in the back.

The views of the surrounding mountains are stunning from Sunnegga. The ride on the gondola to Blauherd was quite a thrill too.

View from the gondola to Blauherd.

We were also awed by the sight of a few hikers walking up a steep trail from Sunnegga to Blauherd. This trail is called the Murmelweg or Marmot Trail (Trail 8) and promises views of marmots that live in burrows on the mountain side. A much easier way to spot these groundhog-like critters was from the cable cars which we did. 

It is good to use the restrooms at cable car stations before starting the hike. Sun-screen lotion and hats are recommended as the summer sun is scorching at high altitude and it is easy to get sun-burned although we don’t feel its heat.

The walk from Blauherd to Stellisee

The first lake to visit from Blauherd is the popular Stellisee, where reflections of the Matterhorn on its surface are Instagramers’ favourites.

We did not follow the official yellow sign-posted route to Stellisee. This route is on a track that is accessible by vehicles and mountain bikes. Instead, we followed the handwritten signs pointing to Stellisee and walked up a slope just outside the Blauherd Station to a footpath that ran almost parallel to the paved road. It was easy to spot this trail as other hikers before us were already on it. This alternate route had no vehicles and offered slightly better views since it was above the wider vehicular track.

The alternate route to Stellisee from Blauherd. We took this footpath instead of the paved road below.

There were also many summer alpine flowers along the footpath. A photographer’s delight.

The morning was not so windy and we could see nice reflections of the snow-capped mountains on the surface of Stellisee. There were still gentle ripples from the wind and splashing fish occasionally disturbed the lake’s surface.

Nice reflections of the snow-capped mountains on the surface of Stellisee.

Do I look like a action-figure, standing on this round metal cover?

A good picture of Matterhorn reflected on the surface of the lake could be shot on the far side of this lake. That was where most people and photographers were gathered. Stellisee is popular with tour groups since it is relatively easy to access from Zermatt.

Walking to the far side of Stellisee.

It was not a good day to view or photograph the Matterhorn from Stellisee. The tip of the shark-tooth shape mountain was covered in clouds, although we could still enjoy fabulous mountain scenery.

The weather was nice and cool. For those who like nature and the outdoors, Stellisee is good location for a picnic. We were in hats and jackets to protect us from the occasional cold wind from the mountains and the sun that was roasting us slowly but surely.

The Walk from Stellisee to Grindjisee.

The next lake along the 5-Lakes Walk is the Grindjisee. We followed a yellow sign post pointing to Grindjisee and took a steep trail that zigzag down a steep cliff. We later found that this path is a “short-cut” and not the official 5-Seenweg route.

Starting of the switchback trail down the side of this mountain to Grindjisee.

For those not used to heights or walking along narrow paths with a steep slope on the side, this trail could be a little daunting at some places. Yet, we saw two mountain bikers riding down this trail.

Watching anxiously at two young mountain bikers making their way down the same trail.

Grindjisee is located at the bottom of the steep trail. From far, it looked like an oasis of lush greenery on the mountainside that was mostly grass, rocks and gravel. 

There were many people having picnic by the lake. The water of this lake is clear and teeming with small fishes.

Grindjisee is a beautiful lake surrounded by larch trees and flora.

Walking to the far end of the lake where it is a good spot to view the Matterhorn.

We made our way to some big rocks on the far side of the lake from the Matterhorn. This would be the best spot to capture views of the Matterhorn reflected on the surface of the lake.

Matterhorn in between the larch trees but partially covered in clouds.

Once again, the shy mountain was having its north face covered in a veil of cloud that seemed to move a little.

We took cover under the shade of the huge rock to have a snack and waited for the clouds to move. Others like us were also camping around with hope.

Waiting for the clouds to clear at the Grindjisee so we could take some nice photos.

We had some entertainment from a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel that belonged to a passing hiker.

A handsome ruby colour Cavalier King Charles Spaniel at the Grindjisee.

The smart and brave dog fetching his toy from the surface of the lake.

I explored the area for better vantage points to shoot Matterhorn and the lake. Although the sky was not totally cloudy, the clouds seemed to like the north face of the Matterhorn.

A nice spot for photographing the Matterhorn and Grindjisee. If only the clouds on the face of the Matterhorn would move away.

The tip of the shark tooth shaped mountain appeared briefly, giving a ray of hope to the admirers that had gathered.

After an hour of lingering, we decided to move on and not wait for the impossible on this day.

The Walk from Grindjisee to Grünsee.

Grünsee means “green lake” and it is located across the valley from where Stellisee and Grindjisee were located. We actually saw this green lake while hiking down from Stellisee to Grindjisee.

From Grindjisee to Grünsee along the 5-Seenweg.

To get to the green lake, we followed a wide gravel road downhill, crossed a bridge over a stream running down the glacier valley and then went trek uphill again.

Thousands of tadpoles in a pool by the river that we crossed on the way to Grünsee.

By now, the sun was bearing down on us. This summer was unusually warm in Switzerland. Grünsee is one of the lakes along the 5 Lakes Walk that one could swim in and looked very inviting.

Grünsee.

The lake is clear and greenish in colour, but it is safe to swim in.

Families and their dogs were seen relaxing by the lake. The waters looked tempting but we were not prepared for a swim in a mountain lake.

Lunch at the Ze Seewjinu Mountain Lodge

The Ze Seewjinu Mountain Lodge was a good place, if not the only place, to stop for lunch near Grünsee.

Traditional Rosti with bacon and fried eggs.

This restaurant served excellent local mountain food and offered excellent mountain views. We enjoyed the food and had a good rest at this restaurant and most of all, a chance to use the restrooms!

Moosjisee

A trail behind the restaurant led us down a steep path to the next lake. We crossed a small bridge with a cascade before taking a gentle level path to Moosjisee.

Compared to the other lakes, Moosjisee is not attractive at all. The small lake is milky in colour, a sign that the waters are fed from melting glaciers. It looked like the “runt” in terms of beauty, compared to the other lakes along this hike. It is used as a reservoir with buildings (pumping stations perhaps) next to it.

Moojisee, the lake with a milky look.

Walking from Moosjisee to Leisee

The trail that we took to Moosjisee continued past the lake and down towards the hamlet of Findeln. To get to Leisee (and Sunnega), we  turned right just after Moosjisee and “huff and puff “ our way up a hill.

On the trail from Moosjisee to Leisee with views of Findeln and alpine scenery on our left.

The hamlet of Findeln with its world famous mountain restaurants.

The trail soon levelled off until towards the end where we had to “huff and puff” again up a trail to Leisee.

Leisee is accessible in 10 minutes on foot down from the Sunnegga Station. Hence it is a popular place for families to enjoy a swim, picnic, BBQ by a mountain lake with views of the alpine landscape and Matterhorn.

 

Leisee, with Sunnegga Station on the hill behind.

One could swim in Leisee, with views of the alpine landscape and Matterhorn.

If conditions are right, Leisee would be THE place to shoot a photo of you swimming in a lake with the Matterhorn and its reflection on the surface.

It was too windy and cloudy for THAT shot.

The best thing to do for us was to rest, relax and do some people watching.  A group of hikers on the opposite bank actually took off their clothes and went skinny dipping in the lake!

Those that prefer to keep their clothes on or not get wet could play with a raft that was strung across the small lake. They just need to get on the raft and use the rope to pull themselves across for some cheap thrill and fun.

Leisee was the last lake on the 5-Seenweg or Five Lakes Walk.

From Leisee or Sunnegga, there is an option to walk back to Zermatt along the Gourmetweg (Trail 6) passing through Findeln and Ried. The hamlet of Findeln has a few world famous mountain restaurants that are worth trying.

We were too tired on this day to attempt this option. We took the funicular from Sunnegga down to Zermatt and cooked our own dinner in our apartment instead.

Continue Reading »

Shooting photos of the Matterhorn at sun rise

24 July 2018

I woke up slightly before 6 AM and saw the Matterhorn with no clouds around it through the windows of my bedroom. At that moment, I was truly glad that I had booked an apartment in Zermatt with unblocked views of the Matterhorn, the iconic and legendary mountain in Switzerland.

One “mission” I had on this trip was to shoot photos of the mountain at sun rise, at the time when the first rays of the sun hit its tip. I knew this spectacular light show would begin at about 6.10 AM and I did not have much time to spare.

Still dressed in clothes that I wore to bed, I dashed out to the balcony and set up my Canon G5X camera on a Manfrotto Pixie Evo 2 mini tripod on the wooden table. Shooting the mountain at sun rise in low light requires the use of a tripod to keep the camera steady. I had bought this tripod just before my trip and this was its maiden photo shoot. 

“Are you not feeling cold? ”, my wife asked from inside the apartment.

In the excitement of capturing some epic shots of nature’s light show, I did not have time to feel cold even though it was about 15 degree C at dawn.

The mountain was grey against the pale blue sky, like an ash-covered piece of sharp ember that was almost extinguished during the night. At about 6.10 AM, the first rays of the sun strike the sharp tip of the Matterhorn.

It was like as if an unseen giant had blown on the tip of the mountain. Blowing away the coating of ash, feeding it with oxygen and re-igniting it again.

As the sun rose in the next few minutes, I snapped away while watching the red tip of the mountain glows and grows bigger and bigger, spreading down the mountain. 

It was like the Matterhorn was on fire!

 

The Matterhorn, a mountain of gold.

The colour of the mountain also transformed from red to orange and finally to gold. 

I hope the above sequence of photos had captured the incredible show my family witnessed on this morning.

The show ended once the sun was fully up and cast its white light on the mountain at about 6.30 AM. The mountain became grey and white again. Against the pale blue sky.

Show over and mission accomplished!

Continue Reading »

Riffelsee and Gornergrat

24 July 2018

We woke up early to witness an incredible show of the sun’s rays lighting up the tip of the Matterhorn at dawn. For the first time since we arrived at Zermatt, there was clear blue sky above the Matterhorn.

We knew instantly that this should be the day that we take the Gornergrat Bahn to the summit of Gornergrat at 3,089 m ASL. Some of the best views of the Matterhorn are from the summit of Gornergrat and also along the hiking trails down from there. In particular, the reflection of the Matterhorn on the surface of the alpine lake Riffelsee, located along a trail just below Gornergrat, is one of nature’s finest scenery.

The reflection of the Matterhorn on the surface of the Riffelsee.

The best time to capture that shot of the Matterhorn at Riffelsee is on a clear day and as early as possible when there is no wind and the surface of the lake is completely still – usually early in the morning or in the evening.

Access to Gornergrat is by cog-wheel railway that departs from the center of Zermatt every 20 minutes during summer. Alternatively, one could walk up the mountain. Yes, that is a possibility too but definitely not an option for us.

We took the 8.24 AM train and sat on the right side of the train with good views of the Matterhorn as the train pulled itself up the mountain past Zermatt.

View of the Matterhorn and Zermatt from the Gornergrat train.

We bought the one-way ticket using our Swiss half-fare card since we intended to do some hiking from Gornergrat.  The typical journey to Gornergrat is about 35 minutes, with brief stops at 3 to 4 intermediate stations along the way. We could alight at any of these intermediate stations before re-boarding the next train to Gornergrat.

We got off at Rotenboden station (one stop before Gornergrat) so that we could see and shoot photos of the reflection of the Matterhorn on the surface of the Riffelsee while conditions were still good. 

The surrounding mountains were so gorgeous that we spent some time at Rotenboden before starting on our hike down to the lake along a trail known as the Riffelseeweg.

The hike down to Riffelsee from Rotenboden took about 10 to 15 minutes. This lake was not visible from the station and my heart raced a little when I caught my first sight of it from the trail.

The blue waters of Riffelsee and the Matterhorn gleaming in the clear blue sky.

The conditions were quite good for THAT shot of the Matterhorn although there was a slight breeze and slight ripples on the lake’s surface. It was not ideal but good enough for amateurs like me.

Keen landscape photographers would camp overnight at this lake to shoot photos of the first rays of the sun striking the tip of the Matterhorn. 

Mission accomplished at Riffelsee, we hiked back up to Rotenboden and took the next train to Gornergrat. 

It is advisable to stop at Rotenboden and visit Riffelsee as early as possible before heading up to Gornergrat, especially if weather conditions for photography are good.

Cog-wheel train to Gornergrat. See the teeth of the gear on the tracks.

Overview of Gornergrat and the cog-wheel train.

Gornergrat offers 360 degree views all round. Up close, we could see the Monte Rosa massif with Switzerland’s highest mountain (Dufourspitze, 4,634 m) and Gorner glacier, the second highest glacier in the Alps.

The Matterhorn at 4,478 m was very prominent as viewed from the Gornergrat although the angle was not the best for viewing the pyramid shaped mountain. Having said that, it was easy to understand why people who had seen this mountain would described it with words such as “majestic, awesome, iconic, splendid, one-of-a-kind, powerful, alluring, beautiful, breath-taking …the list goes on”.

There is also a hotel (3100 Kulmhotel
Gornergrat) with a restaurant, a chapel and plenty of benches to rest on at the viewing platform on the summit.

3100 Kulmhotel Gornergrat with observatory at both corners.

Kapelle Gornergrat "Bernhard von Aosta".

Visitors could go light a candle and say a prayer at this mountain top chapel.

There is also an information center cum gift shop where we bought a small Toblerone chocolate, just to take a fun shot of the Matterhorn.

Fun shot of the Matterhorn and free advertisement for Toblerone.

We could also present ourselves with a “Gornergrat 360 diploma” at this same shop.

At an altitude above 3000 m ASL, it could be cold at Gornergrat, even in summer. We were well prepared with jackets and sweaters. However, the weather was very pleasant on this day with almost no wind and we felt strangely warm even though a sign showed the temperature was 7 degree C, with 5 km/h wind.

Checking the weather conditions and map at Gornergrat.

As we sat and enjoyed the views, we could see some clouds forming behind the Matterhorn and slowly moving towards it. Those who came later in the day were going to be disappointed. Hence it is always good to check the live webcam on the internet, showing the real-time weather conditions at Gornergrat, before taking the train up.

After visiting Gornergrat, Riffelsee and taking lots of photos of the Matterhorn and the mountainscape, most visitors and day-trippers would take the cog-wheel train back to Zermatt.

Not for us.

We would do some hiking from Gornergrat. This is only possible during the summer months of July to October, when the snow that usually covered the mountains above 3000m ASL had melted.

More about our hike down from Gornergrat in the next post.

Continue Reading »