24 November 2016
The Otagi Nenbutsu-ji is an interesting but not so well known place in Arashiyama and Sagano that is worth a visit, especially if you like taking photographs and enjoy seeing something out of the ordinary.
This Buddhist temple has 1200 stone statues of Rakan (disciples of Buddha), each unique and interesting to see and photograph.
Rows and rows of stone rakans at the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji in Sagano/Arashiyama, Kyoto
This is the story behind these statues.
The original temple was founded back in the 8th century, in the Higashiyama area. The old temple was relocated to its present location in Sagano after it was hit by a few natural calamities and rebuilt. It was again hit by a typhoon in 1950 which caused severe damages. In 1955, a new head priest called Kocho Nishimura was appointed to this temple and he took on a task to renovate the temple. This head priest was also a good sculptor of Buddhist stone statues. He had the idea of getting visitors to carve their own statues for the temple under his tutorage. Hence, 1200 statues were produced, each with different pose and expressions, as all the statue creators were different individuals. The statues were found all over the grounds of this temple and there is no other temples with such numbers of stone Rakans.
Otagi Nenbutsu-ji is located on the outskirts of Arashiyama and not too many people knew of or visits this place. Although one can take a rickshaw, taxi or public bus from outside one of the Arashiyama train stations, we found that it was easier to just walk to the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji after visiting the bamboo forest and Okochi Sanso Villa via the Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street.
A small fee of 300 yen was charged per person to enter. Once inside, an air of peace and tranquillity was felt. No crowds of tourists but crowds of stone and silent statues. These statues were created about 30 years ago but most were already moss covered and showed signs of wearing by the weather.
The students of the head priest had done a great job. There was a wide range of themes, facial expressions, actions that made the statues so fun to see and photograph.
Stone rakans at the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji in Sagano/Arashiyama, Kyoto.
A penny for your thoughts.
Statue with a mask and a cheeky tongue out of mouth.
Birdman statue.
The moss on this statue looked like his natural hair-do. I wonder if this was intended by the sculptor.
Many statues were those expressing love and devotion.
Mother and child.
Lovers.
Kid with his teddy bear.
Grinning old man.
These were the sportsmen – tennis player, boxer and baseball player.
As we followed a path up the hill to the upper part of the temple grounds, we passed a pavilion with 3 golden bells. This are the bells of the three treasures: the Buddha, the dharma (law) and the priests.
Bells of the three treasures: the Buddha, the dharma (law) and the priests.
Then we came to an open area where there were a few buildings, each surrounded by many more stone statues.
The main hall of the temple that houses the temple’s principle image, Senju Kannon (Thousand-Armed Kannon Bodhisattva that protects against evil).
A peek inside the main hall building.
Building housing the Fureai Kannon, where people pray to this Kannon by touhing it with their hands.
Rows of stone rakans in front of the main pagoda.
No crowds, even during peak Autumn season in Arashiyama.
I enjoyed my visit to the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji and a chance to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. While we were there, there was only a few small groups of visitors. Many were photographers, having a good time shooting photos of the stone statues.
I hope this temple remains one of Arashiyama’s best kept secrets, where only individual travellers come to visit and the temple is not swarmed by big and noisy tour groups. Otherwise, the thing that draws us to this place would be lost.
We spend about 2 hours at the temple and walked back to the main touristy area of Arashiyama via the Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street. We passed by the red torii gate with the moss covered thatched roof restaurant again on the way back.
There is another temple called the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji located near the torii gate. The Adashino Nenbutsu-ji has 8000 Buddhist statues placed in memory of those who died without kin. We had chosen not to visit the Adashino since it would have been a depressing place to visit.
Continuing on, we passed many traditional Machiya townhouses along the Saga road. Many of this houses had been converted to craft stores and restaurants, although many were still residential.
Cute figurines in contrast to a fierce looking face of a roof edge tile placed outside a residential unit.
There were so many interesting things to enjoy while walking along the preserved street i.e. autumn foliage, flowers and cute decorations in front of the houses and also many stores with interesting craft on sale.
There was a unique little shop selling handicraft art made from silkworm cocoons that one should not miss.
Shop selling handicraft art made from silkworm cocoons along the Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street. Diorama of everyday scenes in Japan were displayed beneath those lanterns.
Examples of the diorama of everyday scenes in Japan displayed.
This little figurines were made using the “shell” of silkworm cocoons.
We arrived back at the central Arashiyama area at about 4.30 PM. The 2.8 km walk along from the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji had taken about 45 minutes. We took time to enjoy some coffee and cakes at the Tully Coffee inside the Randen Arashiyama Station. The Randen Line was operated by a private railway company. The small trains on the Keifuku Arashiyama Line ran from this station to the Omiya Station in central Kyoto.
By the time we finished our coffee and snacks, the sky had turned dark. It was the perfect time to see the display of “Kimono Forest” inside the station. Kimono Forest is a collection of gorgeous cylinder-shaped pillars, wrapped with Kyoto Yuzen kimono fabrics, framing the lane way along the Randen station. There are about 600 of them installed all over the station grounds, with 32 different kimono patterns on display. At dusk, each pillar was illuminated by the LED lights installed inside.
“Kimono forest” framing the lane way the Randen Arashiyama Station.
Walking down the Kimono Lane at dusk.
After a few minutes walk down the “Kimono Lane”, we came to a small fountain and the station’s so-called power spot, the Ryu no Atago or Pond of Dragon. The water springs from 50 meters below ground and comes from the underground water sources of the sacred mountain Atago. People come to this area to pray and to dip their hands in the cold water, which is believed to relax, restore and fill one with happiness.
The Ryu no Atago or Pond of Dragon along the “Kimono Forest”.
