16 November 2016
Kumano Hongu Taisha is one of the Kumano region's three famous shrines. As well as enshrining its own deity, Hongu Taisha also enshrines the deities of the other two Kumano shrines, Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha, and the sun goddess Amaterasu. Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine is the top shrine of the more than 3,000 Kumano Shrines which are located throughout Japan.
More information on the shrine can be found here.
We entered the Grand Shrine from its rear entrance, having walked a section of the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi trail from Hosshinmon-Oji.
There are many things for visitors, tourists and pilgrims to do at the shrine.
Some may write down their wish on a ema tablet, hang it in the shrine and hopefully it would get fulfilled after it was reported to the Ohkami-sama on the 15th of every month. Ema are small wooden plaques on which Shinto worshippers write their prayers or wishes. The ema are then left hanging up at the shrine, where the kami (spirits or gods) are believed to receive them. They bear various pictures, often of animals or other Shinto imagery, and many have the word gan'i meaning "wish", written along the side.
Visitors could also send a letter or postcard from the shrine after getting a special memorial stamp from the Kumano Shrine office on the letter or postcard. The crow on top of the black mail box is one with 3 legs. The 3 legged crow, called the Yatagarasu, is said to be sacred and I learnt more about this from a information tab in the shrine.
Visitors should perhaps spent some time to say a prayer or two. And perhaps buy some sacred charms as souvenir or gifts for loved ones at home.
The Yatagarasu is worshipped by pilgrims for better fortune and also safety of transition (traffic, travel, marine).
Buying some lucky charms as souvenir or gifts for loved ones at home.
A "Dual Pilgrim" is someone who has walked both the Kumano Kodo and the Way of St.James (Camino de Santiago) - both of these UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage routes. Dual pilgrims certification can be obtained at this place.
We saw some smaller shrine building first before entering into the main shrine complex.
One of the shrine at the Grand Shrine (Kumano Hongu Taisha).
Entrance to the main complex at the Grand Shrine (Kumano Hongu Taisha).
We walked through these gates into the main shrine complex where the atmosphere changed from touristy to solemn.
Details on the X-shaped crosspieces construction and roof structure. Intricate joint works were used in the construction instead of nails. The thick roof gracefully sweeps forward extending over the stairs and the area in front of the shrine. It is made entirely of Hinoki, or Japanese cypress bark.
We left the Grand Shrine using a flight of steps leading down to the main entrance.
A visit to the Grand Shrine would not be complete without a visit to the O’Torii (giant Torii gate) at Oyunohara, located about 10 minutes walk away. Oyunohara is the former location of Kumano Hongu Shrine that was severely damaged by a massive flood in 1889. The surviving buildings were relocated to the present location.
It was magical to see the Torii gate in the golden light of afternoon autumn sun, and green and yellow padi fields on both sides of the pathway.
Its humongous size only became real when we stood directly beneath it. Standing 33.9 meters tall and 42 meters wide, the Torii Gate weighs 172 tons and is the biggest in the world.
This is a sacred place and is known as the “place where deities descended to earth in the form of three moons into the arms of an oak tree”. There is a small stone shrine in the centre of the small clearing.
To round off our exploration of the Hongu area, we went to visit the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center before catching our bus to Yunomine Onsen.
I was contemplating whether to hike the Dainichi-Goe route to Yunomine Onsen and decided that it was better for us to take the bus. The Dainichi-goe route is a 3.5 km but relatively steep trail over Mount Dainichi that links Kumano Hongu Taisha with Yunomine Onsen. It would take us about 2 hours to do the walk and not enough time for us to do it before the sky gets dark on this day.
The Kumano Hongu Heritage Center was very informative, with pictures and information that made us appreciate Kumano Kodo better.
Scaled model of the old Grand Shrine at the previous location in Oyunohara.
It was interesting to learn of the different deities that were associated with the 3 shrines that we visited or would be visiting. The deity associated with Hongu Grand Shrine is the Amida (Buddha of Compassion and Wisdom). The deity associated with the Hayatama Shrine is the Yakushi ( The Medicine Buddha of Healing). The deity associated with the Nachi Shrine is the Senju Kannon ( The Thousand Armed Bodhisaltva of Mercy).
As a football fan, I never noticed before that the emblem on the Japan’s National Team has a picture of a divine Yatagarasu, 3 legged crow, standing on two legs and the claws of the third leg held a football. Now I know.
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