From Takijiri-Oji to Takahara on the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route Day 1

14 November 2016

We alighted at the Takijiri-oji bus-stop about 45 minutes after boarding the bus at the Kii-Tanabe Station. Although the bus was almost full. Only 4 persons alighted - the two ladies I mentioned in the previous post and us. The rest of the passengers seemed to be heading for Hongu Taisha Shrine and/or one of the onsen villages around Hongu area.

The 4 of us were the only persons doing the hike from Takijiri to Takahara. There was a man at the bus-stop holding a sign with the names of the the two ladies. He was there to meet them and collect their luggage for forwarding to Takahara.

 

This personalised luggage forwarding service is available between the villages along the Kumano Kodo trail but we had chosen not to use it.

 

The Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Centre is located across the river from the bus stop. This is a visitor centre that was worth a visit, to learn more about the journey we were about to embark on.

This is what the pilgrims in the Heian era ( AD791-1191) would be wearing as they crossed the rugged but sacred mountains of the Kii Peninsula to the Kumano shrines. 

 

I was hopeful of seeing colourful autumn foliage along the trail and I was glad to see this sight in Takijiri. It looked like our timing for seeing the autumn foliage is quite good.

Takijiri-oji is the start of the ancient Nakahechi Kumano Kodo trail to the Kumano Shrines. From here, we would be walking 3.7 km uphill  to the village of Takahara where we would be spending the night.  

A friendly cat came to say hello as we took some selfies.

 

I think of the Amazing Race every time I see this photo! The start of an amazing  journey on the UNESCO World Heritage Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route over the next 5 days.

A distinctive characteristic of the Kumano Kodo are Oji, subsidiary shrines of the Kumano deity, which line the route. These were important sites of religious rites and offerings and are still essential elements of the Kumano pilgrimage.

The start of the trail is located just behind the Takijiri-oji. Takijiri-oji is a very important spot on the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage route and one of the five major Oji shrines.  There were once extensive halls, a bath house, lodgings for pilgrims, and residences for priests, priestesses and monks located here. 

We started climbing the trail while the two ladies, which we spoke to at the Information Centre, lingered to take pictures at Takijiri-Oji. They were from Australia and had stayed a couple of days at Koyasan before coming over to do the Kumano Kodo trail. The elderly woman was much older than us and I must salute her for her sense of adventure and physical fitness.

    Beginning of the trail near Takijiri-oji. 

The terrain was rugged and the trail may not be too obvious at times. Wooden Kumano Kodo signposts were located every few hundred metres, providing assurances that we were on the right track.

  “Not Kumano Kodo Sign”.

Occasionally, we spotted “Not Kumano Kodo” signs like the one above which was useful too. 

Ten minutes into the trek, we were perspiring and no longer wearing our jackets.

One of the first highlight of this Day 1 walk was a cave called Tainai-kuguri. It is said that pilgrims can test their faith by climbing and squeezing through a crack in the rock. Superstition has it that a woman would have a smooth delivery if they can perform this feat.

Crawl through that space? No thanks.

Next up is the Chichi-iwa rock, translated as “milk rock” and associated with another local legend. Apparently, a lady of a powerful clan gave birth in this cave, left the baby in the cave and continued with their pilgrimage. A wolf came and saved the baby by dripping milk down the rock. The parents, on their returned journey, collected the baby who went on to be Izumi Saburo Tadahira.

Chichi-iwa rock, translated as “milk rock” with a small figurine clad in red cloth beneath it.

It was interesting to read the informative signage at some of the Oji. Each has its story.

  I stopped to drop a coin at an oji, just like what the ancient pilgrims may do.

Nezu-oji remains  - one of the many “oji’” along the way. Each with a story.

The trail was mostly up and up. It was good to take it slow and stopped to rest when needed. While we stopped to use the 3G connection to send our some pictures to folks back home, the Aussie couple overtook us.

Our “travelling companions” ahead of us.

We were to encounter them a few times along the trail. We would overtake them while they rested and then they would do the same while we rested. They were the only persons we met on this part of the trail from Takijiri to Takahara.

There was a lookout point along the way that requires a short detour. Steep steps, some almost reaching my knees, led to the lookout point.

Steps leading to a lookout point. Look at the height of each step! Almost reaching my knee.

The views at the top was worth the climb.

After a breather at the lookout point, we followed  the stairs down the other side of the peak to join up with the main route below. Any descent at one stretch means more ascending to do at a later part of the trail.

Just when you thought that you have reached the peak, you realised that there is more hill to climb ahead!

We finally arrived at the outskirts of the Takahara village.

Nice views along the ridge leading into the village.

 

Takahara is known as "Kiri-no-Sato" (Village in the Mist) because the scenic
mountain vistas are often blanketed with mist. Walking into Takahara reminded me of my previous Nakasendo Walk. It was interesting to see the rural part of Japan and how the villagers lived.

Ha ha – a villager that is friendly to birds (with offerings of sunflower seeds) but not so friendly to humans (Electric fence in use).

Some kind of fungus growing on the fence. It shows the weather at Takahara is moist and humid most of the time.

We reached Takahara at about 3.45 PM which meant we took about 3 hours to complete the journey for Day 1.

 

Sit and enjoy the views and breeze before looking for our accommodation for the night.

Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge (our accommodation in Takahara) is located on high ground in the village and it was quite easy to locate in the small village.

Road leading to Kiri-no Sato Lodge.

I stopped to take pictures of a shy cat hiding in the bush.

We arrived at the lodge just before 4 PM and met the Aussie ladies who were already at the lobby. We were warmly welcomed and served hot drinks by the staff of the Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge. We chatted with our fellow travellers at the open-air terrace overlooking the valley before heading to our rooms.

We chose to book the Western style room and also included dinner, breakfast and a lunch box for the next day.

View from our room at Kiri-No-Sato Lodge.

The rooms at the lodge faced the valley below, with views of the Hatenasi Mountains in the distance where Koyasan is located. Hongu, where the Kumano Hongu shrine is located, is on the right of the mountain range but not visible.

The best thing to do before dinner and after a strenuous trek is a hot bath at the lodge’s onsen.  I had the onsen all to myself as it seemed that there were more ladies than men on the Nakahechi trail on this day. After the onsen, we put on yukatas provided in the bedroom and went to the lobby cum dining area for dinner.  As usual, we were overfed with delicious local cuisine while staying in Japanese guesthouses.

Here are pictures of the food served during dinner at Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge.

Day 1 of my Kumano Kodo hike on the Nakahechi route was mostly uphill, steep and strenuous at times and completely safe. I really enjoyed the workout in the nice cool November weather and was looking forward to Day 2.