5 June 2016
After visiting the Peace Memorial Park in the morning, our next destination is the nearby island of Miyajima. There are many ways to get to Miyajima from Hiroshima documented in the internet and travel guides. As we had the Kansai Hiroshima Area Pass, we would be taking the JR Sanyo Line train from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi Station. The train to Miyajimaguchi Station took 25 minutes, fare cost 410 yen one way but covered by our Rail Pass. From Miyajimaguchi Station, it was a short walk to the ferry pier, from where ferries depart frequently for Miyajima. There are two competing ferry companies operating from this port: JR and Matsudai. Both companies' ferry rides take 10 minutes and both cost 180 yen one way. Our pass covered the fares for the JR ferry.
But before leaving the city of Hiroshima, we made a lunch stop at an okonomiyaki restaurant located along Hon Dori. Hon Dori is a popular covered shopping street, located between the peace park and our hotel and train station.
Our meal was cooked for us at a central table and then brought to the pan at the centre of our table.
We ordered one oyster okonomiyaki with big fresh oysters on it and another one with squid. Hiroshima okonomiyaki is said to be different from similar dish sold in Kyoto or Osaka. Whatever the differences, they tasted extremely good and reasonably priced.
As 5 June 2016 was a Sunday, the locals were out in force. Many were dressed in their Sunday best.
By the time we arrived at our hotel, Toyoko Inn Hiroshima-eki Minamiguchi-migi, it was slightly after 3 PM. Our original plan was to get to Miyajima by 3 PM! We picked up our bags from the hotel and walked to the Hiroshima Station.
By 4.30 PM, we were on the ferry to Miyajima! The ferry was not crowded at this time of day and we sat on the outside deck to enjoy the scenery and wind as the ferry sped towards the island.
Miyajima Island is officially known as Itsukushima and is famous for many things, including the floating torii gate, Itsukushima Shrine, Daisho-In Temple, friendly residents, shopping streets and food like its oysters and momiji manju (maple leaves shaped pastries). The view of the torii gate is supposed to be one of the top 3 best scenery of Japan.
While my travel companions rested their legs, I was up and about, taking photos and enjoying the views. Floating oyster beds could be seen from the ferry. In less than 10 minutes, we got our first view of the iconic Floating Torii Gate but it was not floating. It was low tide. People were seen crawling like ants around it when viewed from a distance.
I was thrilled to find that our timing was just right and we could actually walk to the Torii gate when we arrive.
Once on the island, we were greeted by the friendly residents, who came to us hoping for some hand-outs.
I was referring to the deer!
The deer of Miyajima are quite tame. They roam the streets freely and will do anything for food. These Sika deer have long being considered sacred animals in Japan and since ancient times, the deer on Miyajima were worshipped as messengers of the Gods and locals offered food to them in small temples. Hence they have become tame.
Leaving the deer and the jetty area behind us, we walked through the Omotesando shopping streets. It was still crowded in the late afternoon.
Along this street, we came to the largest wooden rice scoop in the world. A wooden plaque on the wall explained that it is 7.7 meters long, 2.7 meters wide and weighs 2.5 tonnes. It is said to be made from a 270 year old Zelkova tree. The scoop took two years, 10 months to construct and went on display in 1996 to commemorate the designation of Itsukushima Shrine as a World Heritage Site.
I really like the beautiful grains of the Zelkova tree, creating very nice patterns on the handle.
There are many stores selling mini rice scoops as souvenirs. Ha ha. These are made with foreign timber and likely overpriced.
There are stores selling various foodstuffs, including the grilled and/or fresh oysters. We gave these a miss today as we have dinner included in our ryokan stay at Miyajima.
From the shopping street, we headed to the seaside where the shrine and its Torii gate were located. The shrine and of the Torii gate is painted in vermilion colour as it is believed that this bright colour keep evil spirits away. As for Itsukushima Shrine, the shrine buildings are coated with vermilion lacquer, which is also efficient as protection from corrosion.
As it was still low tide when we came to the Itsukushima Shrine and the torii gate, we were able to join others walking to the base of the gate and take a close look at its construction.
The main pillars are huge and of non-uniformed shape. They are trunks from naturally grown camphor tree, approximately 500 to 600 years old.
There are smaller torii supporting the main pillars with 4 smaller pillars. The base of the great Torii is not buried deep in the seabed, but stands by its own weight. 7 tons of fist-sized stones were actually added to the box shaped part at the top of the gate to increase its weight. Custom made wedges are driven into the intersections where the pillars and roof meet, absorbing slight movements and helping to balance the pillars and the roof. Overall, it is a stable design to withstand earthquakes and typhoons.
People had actually stuck small coins on the little barnacles surrounding the base.
By the time we finished with the Torii gate, it was nearly 6 PM. We made our way to Mizuha-so, located just opposite the Miyajima aquarium where our host was waiting.
Mizuha-so was our accommodation in Miyajima and our stay included dinner and breakfast which was important since most shops and restaurants shuts down after 6 PM on this island. We cannot be too late as our host and her chef were waiting to prepare a fantastic dinner for us.
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