Walking the Old Nakasendo Highway from Magome to Tsumago

25 May 2016

After checking out of Tajimaya Ryokan (where we stayed in Magome), we stopped at the Tourist Information Centre, located in the center of the town, to drop off our backpacks. For 500 Yen, they will deliver the backpacks to Tsumago’s Tourist Information Centre on the same day. This service is specially provided between Magome and Tsumago and is different from the usual Takuhaibin service that delivers the next day.

This part of the Nakasendo Trail between Magome and Tsumago is very popular. The walking distance is 8 km with an elevation gain of 326m of ascent and 430m of descent to Tsumago. It typically takes around 3.5 hours to walk over the Magome Pass to Tsumago.

The following is the photo essay of the Nakasendo Trail to Tsumago.

Nakasendo Highway (中山道 Central Mountain Route) between Magome and Tsumago. Walking distance is 8 km with an elevation gain of 326m of ascent and 430m of descent to Tsumago.

Windchime at Magome.

 

Reproduction of a Tokugawa shogunate notice board (kosatsuba), which lays down the law for approaching visitors.

 

View of Mount Ena at lookout point just 100m outside of Magome. Nice place to stop and enjoy the views but it was too early  for us to make this a rest-stop.

 

 

Water trough outside the village houses are a common sight. I guess the water are drinkable but we carried enough water.

 

Villager going about the usual traditional daily life.

As we left Magome behind and entered into the forested area, signs and precautionary measures (bells) against bears could be seen at the entrance and exit of each mountain path. However, not to worry, bears are not commonly seen.

Ring bell hard to frighten away bears.  Hmm…..serves as a dinner bell for bears I think.

 

Heading up towards Magome Pass. Bear warning signs but  none were seen.

 Torii gate for a Shinto shrine.

What was I doing?

 

Taking this shot! Tall cedar pine trees along the way

 

The trail ascended gently towards Magome-touge (or Pass), the highest point of this trail. Occasionally, the old highway would cross the new Nakasendo Highway (paved tar road) but would quickly branch back into the forested trail again.

More bear warning signs and warning bells are seen at each entrance to the forested area. Not many hikers were on the trail, so we got to enjoy the peace and quiet.  We met another couple from abroad. We chatted. They were also heading towards Tsumago and would be taking the train back to Kyoto after their hike. Our pace was slower and they soon went ahead of us.

Just as we reached the peak at Magome-touge, a few buses drove up and unloaded hundreds of school children. This week was Excursion Week in Japan and local school children were out in force for their excursions. This group was smart to come by buses to the peak and then walk down towards Tsumago.

 

Hordes of school children leading the way down towards Tsumago.

They were in good spirits.

These kids were playful but orderly and respectful. As we stood aside to let them pass, we could hear a constant chorus of “Konichiwa”, plus playful waves and some were brave enough to say “hello” and converse with us in English. They soon disappeared from sight and peace and tranquility returned to the forest again. Any chance of sighting a bear were gone as well.

 “Snake like” looking plant.

Leaving the forested area, we came to this tea house (Tateba Tea House) with a beautiful tree outside.

Tateba Tea House.

Tateba or rest stops were typically located mid-way between post-towns and were unofficially established by local people who took advantage of the needs of travellers who would stop for a rest and some refreshment before moving on to the next official post-town. We sat on the bench outside for a rest. The owner of the tea house came out to chat and offered us some sweets. Some other hikers were inside having tea as well.

Stone pathways like this are a feature of the Nakasendo Trail.

 

A little further down the trail, we saw signs leading us to the twin Otaki (Male) and Metaki (Female) waterfalls. 

Here we met the school children again. Sounds of laughter and fun were coming from the falls. We sat a distance away and have our own little picnic “lunch” of Snicker bars and mixed nuts.

 

The children soon left and it was the adults’ turn to have some fun by the falls.

Taking “selfies” at the waterfall.

Leaving the waterfall, the trail continue to descend towards O-tsumago and Tsumago itself. 

“Post card” picture of the Nakasendo Trail from Magome to Tsumago!

Close-up of the signboard seen behind us in the above picture. This marks one of the many shrines found along the trail.

 Old vs New – Signage for the Nakasendo Trail leading towards O-Tsumago.

 Entering O-Tsumago.

Stopped often to take photos of spring flowers.

One of the craft shop in O-Tsumago.

 

Water wheel hut with stones to hold down the roof.

 

 

Newly harvested bamboo shoots for a resident’s meal later.

 More padi fields and scenic views as we left O-Tsumago and walked towards Tsumago, our destination.

 

Entering Tsumago.

 

It took us about 4 hours to complete the walk from Magome to Tsumago and we arrived shortly after 1 PM.

Tsumago is a pretty little town, as can be seen from the pictures here.

Stones to hold down the roof.

 

We met the same couple that we saw on the trail earlier. They told us that there are not many eating places in Tsumago and suggested that we should eat at the noodle shop that we just walked past near the entrance to Tsumago. After our experience in Nakatsugawa, we heeded their advice and had our lunch at this shop.

 

Noodle shop in Tsumago – our lunch stop.

 

Lunch consisting of hot soba noodle soup with raw egg and also a few sticks of gohei mochi to share.

Many wooden craft shops, noodle restaurants, Japanese confectionery shops and historic inns could be seen along the main street of Tsumago. Beautifully preserved Edo-era post-town with no modern buildings, electric cables, telephone poles, fire hydrants and other modern features in sight! Cars are not allowed in between 10 AM and 4 PM too.

 

We collected our forwarded backpacks from the Tourist Information Centre in Tsumago and went to Fujioto Ryokan, our accommodation for the night.